Now to close it upClick to view attachment
Basically I peeled the onion back to get accessClick to view attachment
And now I am folding the layers backClick to view attachment
This is much better than What I started withClick to view attachment
Much straighter too...this corner was wacked when I startedClick to view attachment
Now I need to clean up the top side from inside the longitudinal, and then close up the jackpoint.

Lars sent me this, he was busy over the weekend harvesting metal from his parts car

Love this pic

Nominate this picture for the next car of the month.

I sent my parts sacrificed from the green car (still feel bad about that) to the sandblaster to clean up. A week later I am here...
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I started prepping the parts to get ready to splice in. Unfortunately some of my replacement parts need work before they get to be replaced. Figured the best way to get at this left rear corner is to take it apart.
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What a PIA...
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Finally
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Once the inner and outer fender corners are separated I can clean them up. Here...my work is cut out for me...
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Finally decided to get a self darkening welding helmet after borrowing a friend to do some welder-comparisons yesterday. So today there will be no welding...just more prep. Steering rack cover pan is torqued and needs to be massaged back. My 6 didn't have one and at least the donor car had this to offer up.
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Attention now goes to the big chunk I scavenged on the rear of the drivers fender. I wasn't looking forward to figuring out how to...much less diassembling it.
I found this to be very complex...not much forsight on the part of Porsche as to how these fenders could be easily (much less realistically ) replaced.
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I hate seam sealer. That stuff is thick, and the sandblaster didn't dent it. I had to dig it out with various sharp implements of destruction to get to the spot welds I needed to access. Slowly if emerges
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It's like playing chess in 3D...just doesn't want to come apart. Can't force it for fear of damaging the panel I need..finally
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And now as a result of going slowly and peeling back the layers of the onion, I know know how this all needs to go back together
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It is going to be easier to get the bad part of the drivers fender removed now I know the assembly process...but it is still going to be time consuming to dig out the seam sealer to find the spot welds to dril out. Onward...

Amazing work!!! I love to see these cars being saved and they all have their own stories to tell as they get taken apart to be restored.

I wish we had a count of how many have been saved in the database.

Lars,
You are a nut job. It is part of why I like you. Keep up the good work. And when you have a spare moment come down and start cutting and welding one of my stillborn projects. I'm a real 914 guy. Neither of mine has been started in over 2 years...

Regards,

Matt

what's new lars?

Hi Lars,

I found your thread so get updating now..

Lars has been busy finishing his other car...

See here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...conversion.html

It's almost done, so 914 is next up I believe. I will alert him that he is neglecting us 914 folks

Ferg

Lars and I have been communicating for some time about his projects and parts. We just exchanged emails over the weekend and figured this may motivate him to update his thread over here. I know he likes to hang over on the Pelican site.
Now that Andy and Marv are almost done with their cars I'm trying to drag Lars back here so we have another car to watch being restored.

Ok, ok...
I am done (pretty much) with the 71 targa softie conversion. It came back from the painter (way late...like 11 months) and I had picked up the 6 in the interim. The six was already on the rotisserie and the welding and grinding had to stop when the freshly painted car next to it came back home. Now that 71 car is mobile and I can move it to re-start working on the 6. I have more than enough sheet metal to finish the 6, I just need to get motivated after being focused else-where for a year. I have a lot of metal work to do before I commit to what engine goes back in. I have a few choices ranging from 2.0 MFI 911 S to 3.0 twin plug MFI engine. Really not sure what will happen there. Glad for Luke and Ferg to bust my chops to get this moving again...but I have been busy over on "the other side " of the Porsche world.
Cut me a month slack and then get on me.

Speedo

I'll cut u a little slack as long as we are riding in that time.

I have been riding a ton...although not with big Mike, and cleaning up room in the shop, and sending the soft window targa to storage. Now I have room, and no excuses. I like building engines, and I am behind. The 6 came with it's 2.0 (pickled) and a supposed 2.7 RS spec engine with carbs. I trust the PO on the RS spec side, but as it was a 90s build and I couldn't get it to run right on the webers...I tore it apart to see exactly what was inside. It was built on a 911/81 73.5 CIS case. It had some machining done to the case, heads etc so it was a built engine. The CIS injector sleeves had been machined and plugged. turns out the plugs were the same sizes as the MFI injectors. Well, if the case was set up, and the heads were set up, what are the cams and pistons? Well the pistons are Mahle 90mm 8.5 cr so they are correct, and the cams are S cams, but without the MFI pump drive on the left side. Turns out I have an extra left side S MFI drive cam in my stash (not sure where that came from) so I can swap out the left side if I want to run MFI...hmmm. So right about when I started thinking about building the engine back up to be a true 2.7 RS spec engine with the correct MFI (as I have the MFI induction)...I stumbled across a fresh 2.7 MFI RS spec engine that was built and pickled back in 1994 and never fired up. It was complete except for the right induction, but I have an extra. So I guess it was meant to be. The 6 is going to get a 2.7 RS spec MFI engine. I'm sure someone has done this before, but in the interest in making only original mistakes...if you have, please feel free to warn me about the shortcomings.
I will finish the induction on RS spec engine number one, the hurry up and complete the build on RS spec engine number two. Then with the engines out of the way, my focus is on the 6. I have all the replacement steel. Just have to get back into the measure-cut-fit-trim-weld mode. I'll post pics of the engines.
Kind of excited, as I have never personally seen a 6 run an MFI engine.

Speedo

Hi Lars,

How's things ?
It's about time the 6 got some loving.

Time for some Fall driving Lars, sent you an email. Got a new SC I should test out on your road

Yeah,
You should do that...all the sheriffs up here retired, and with all the budget cuts, they haven't been replaced. You should be good to go

See you in a few minutes

"Love this pic "
Not to hijack, but have you climbed that rock in the background?

Refresh my memory...what rock in what picture?

I have been procrastinating (I mean organizing). A tire shop went out of business in Boulder and he had a lot of industrial shelving...cheap. I bought two sets for the shop to get things off the ground. An engine on a dolly takes up the same space on the floor as three engines stacked on shelves. Great way to be economical with space, that's the good news. Bad news is that everything stashed against the walls of the garage on the floor needed to be pulled out for the shelves to be installed. Kind of like cleaning your room as a kid...absolutely hate the idea, but you are glad when it is done. All the cars are off to storage, and the only car in the shop is the 6 on the rotisserie. Frankly the order and space is really nice. Went to S Denver today to help a Pelican friend with the front hood latch gremlin on a car he is reassembling, and he has a huge shop/garage with 20 ft ceilings. But the floor was a disaster. Going vertical is a good thing. I have been practicing welding again...kind of a "girly thing" like ballroom dancing I guess. But I felt out of touch with my welding skills, so I spent a few days welding thin gauge steel to get my confidence level back up. I have a lot more welding to do on this car, and some of it is complicated. I circled the car a couple times to see what I could start with that was relatively easy. I didn't want to fabricate...so I needed to find something that I cut out of the donor car that I could use to repair a section. Left front lower corner behind the bumper is where I will start.
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I cut the area out and started to trim my replacement part
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Cut and fit and cut and fit
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Ok...done. Haven't lost too much metal skill. More work to be done on this corner up top where the hood seal traps moisture next to the head light. Unfortunately, this little segment will need to be fabricated as it didn't get chopped out of the donor car. I think the plan is to go corner to corner clockwise.
The 2.7 RS spec MFI engine is built and waiting. If someone want to chime in as to what I am going to need to do th prepare the chassis for MFI, let me know. I realize I will be running a high pressure MFI fuel pump, will I need to run a return line? I probably will start to come up with lots of induction questions...

Oh yeah...forgot, this kind of gets "my juices " going again...yeah, I am weird.Click to view attachment

Speedo

Nice work Lars!

I will visit soon.

Ferg

Hey Lars,
The 6 is looking good so far and Keep up the great work.
It's been a while since I saw a MFI setup running but it can't be too hard to make it work in a 914. Long ago a friend of mine had a 2.4 T MFI engine in his 914 but I can't recall how he did the fuel plumbing on it.
If you are going the MFI route then just copy the system off a 911.

I do remember him having some issues with trying to figure out the wiring. It can't be too hard now a days with all the info out on the web.

Weekend of welding. Cheaper than a weekend of wedding. Need to clean/dress up some welds and post pics. MFI question ; I am familiar with 911 gas tanks...some of which have a port in the tank for a return line. Does the 914-6 have a return line for the carbs...I can't remember? If It does, I am cool, if not I need to figure one out.
With all the trouble I have had in the last several years with painters...(Ferg, this is not about you) I have almost decided to create a booth and paint the car myself. Not looking forward to that, but unless an ethical, reasonable, non-meth-head-painting-fumed-brain painter surfaces soon, I will start to head down that highway.
I am looking for an LE project guys...prefer a creamsickle vs a bumblebee but will consider all ideas. Brant, where are you? Hibernation? You are normally busting my chops about progress. The racecar may come home this winter to decide whether it gets tweaked for next year, or un-race-car-ed.

Speedo

The tank has a return nipple.

I've painted two cars. It's hard work. Got to be a guy somewhere

Ok,
If you don't want to look at welding...stop here as that is pretty much all of what is going to be posted till this thing gets painted by Brant. BTW, thanks for sharing your experience Brant...and offer!
For reference, I and going around the car clockwise and will finish at the A pillar on the drivers door. Still on the drivers side...channel where the fender is spot welded to the inner fender...not nice
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From the inside of the fender
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As I am learning on 914's you have to peel back the layers of the onion. First have to cut away the fender to repair the inner fender.
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Sorry for the double post...someone show me how to edit please. I am not going to do a running commentary...but I will just show the steps I had to go through and the finished product.
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Getting the inner fender replacement part dialed in

Easier to work on the car when it is horizontal on the rotisserie...no wait!Click to view attachment
Trial fit
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Fitting the fender side
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All in...fender patch welded to inner fender patch
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Done. Now I have some weak areas on the channel that need to be replaced or repaired. I normally would replace the weak sections, but I have been experimenting with building up the steel by welding in material. Kind of like welding toilet paper. I am using a MIG not a TIG so I have to be careful not to breathe or burp. This is how I set it up...
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There were 6 areas in the front trunk area that had weak channels. I used the same copper back shield to build up material and a series of flapper wheels to take down the excess. Worked great. A lot easier than splicing in short pieces of angle.

Right side wiper divot is next as we go clockwise.
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I have a transplant candidate that wants to play...
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This will be tight. Need to figure out the smallest possible area to replace.
Next on the list is the corrosion at the door release/wing area on the passenger side.
Slowly but surely

Nice work! Thank you for posting.

you need some of these Lars. they keep a perfect gap and level the panels.

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Ok wise-guy I have sets of those but they are only usefull in larger open areas. Not -so-much in tight areas with corners...have any cheap TTDs for sale?

Speedo

2 small thin washers+pop-rivet.
use small dia shank rivets.
3/8"-1/2"dia spot to clear.
I used a rat tail file to clear the rivet shank if needed.
Works.
Any one here using Clecos?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php

I use clecoes...but your gap is 1/8th inch. Great for lap welding...like flares, but I am doing less lap welding and more butt welding. Clecoes do a great job. Grew up with them building experimental aircraft...good old EAA. Mis my trips out to Oshkosh.

Speedo

Trying to be better about documenting repairs. This one is tricky as it is non structural and visible. PO did a nice epoxy repair sometime in the past.Click to view attachment
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My donor steel and trimmed using my new old school B1 shearClick to view attachment
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I was going to cut an oval to avoid the 90 degree corners but decided against it. Scribing using the donor to determine how much steel to remove...too little will be trying to weld rusted thin steel, too much will encroach on the vents in between the wipers.
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Comparing what was bad with the donor
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Trimmed and sized
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Tacked and welded
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Cleaned up after massaging the welds
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Passenger hood corner is thin and I will use some copper backing to build it up. Rust is all gone, and it is non structural...plust it will be hidden by the hood gasket Click to view attachment
Backside shows that it is not serious
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With a copper heat sink behind this was welded, cleaned up and we moved on Click to view attachment
As we continue clockwise, I have an issue with the catch-all are behind the passenger door latch (I have the same issue on the drivers side). Click to view attachment
This too will be tricky as it is very visible and mistakes not easily hidden. I will peel back the layers of the onion tomorrow. Looking up from the forward side of the rear wheel well...there is a ton of factory under-coating and or seam sealer in this area. I am thinking I am going to be heating with a torch and scraping to get this area cleaned up so I can see exactly how far the rust has intruded.

Speedo

My 1970 orange 914-6 has MFI on a 2.2S engine. Runs flawlessly. Could not ask for a better setup. You will like it.

Great! I am looking forward to running the MFI. Can I get some help with install/plumbing/electrical questions when the time comes?
Will you post some pics of your engine compartment for me?

Speedo

Need to keep up the pace...snowed here today and a perfect shop afternoon listening to KRFC out of Ft Collins, what a great radio station.
Time to attack...drew the cutting lines. Not really sure what to expect, but need to find out what is behind this
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Nurse, scalpel please
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Ugh....this looks terrible. Not what I was expecting. Started to dig out the crap and realized that most of the "turd colored" stuff was the surface rust from the surrounding steel. The bulk of the mound was seam sealer. And it was a pain to get rid of. Very stiff unless heated. Softer when heated...and BTW the fumes are great. Took me an hour and a half to dig out to here
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Didn't expect this...damn!
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From inside the fender looking up
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Ok, I am going to need more room to deal with repairing this vent tube.Click to view attachment
Looks sort of like "Freddie" in his hockey mask
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Gotta cut it out and splice a patch in
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Tight quarters here, hard to access, clean up and prep
Inside looking out...rather rough factory finish to this tube...but I guess it is all covered up with the interior
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Shaping the patch
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Fitting the patch
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Trimmed
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Tacked and welded
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Had to do the top stitch from the inside
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Cleaned up the patch and etch primered the repair.
Now on to the exterior skin. There is a lot going on in three dimensions here... I need to figure out the best places for the butt welds in the handle recess area.

nice job.

Just occurred to me that when I fix the perforations in this same area on the driver's side, that I am going to likely find the same mess of over-zealous use of seam sealer there too? Has anybody found the same carnage in that area before? Seriously...3-4 lbs of the muck.

Speedo

Yes, and in both rear fender corners above tail lights.

Yeah, I kind of figured that...back there. Just didn't figure on the amount applied at the door receiver. Thanks Ferg...looking forward to the rear corners. So I am still working on the passenger latch/lock area. This is tricky as it is a three dimensional area. And as my replacement piece is solid, I need to remove good and bad steel to make the replacement as easy as possible. Here is my replacement...lined upClick to view attachment
I am feeling rather timid as this is a 3D replacement and it is not a scribe and cut situation. More of an extreme cut and fit X seven.
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make sure you check the fit of a door handle in the detent and compare both sides for an even gap all around. an eighth of an inch in the detent height will show up dramatically when you fit the handle/door. don't trust just measurements.