That is cool. Really nice work! I'd be getting excited too.

Working on my pre-paint checklist...
There was this nagging pinhole in the drivers jackpoint. I was sure it was just a flaw in the steel. No rust anywhere to be seen, so probably just a fluke. It was bugging me...and no sense working on massaging the body and ignoring this little bugger. I drilled a larger hole through the pinhole, and unfortunately the drill bit went right through with little resistance. Now looking inside, I see a lot of debris. Some of it is blast media (of course) but some of it is flaky and rust colored. I drill a couple more hole as I am in denial, and it looks worse. Dammit! I cut the lower half of the outer reinforcement off exposing the inside of the jackpoint. More pinholes, so I need to head into the rocker. Fortunately the weak steel is limited to an area 1.5 x 4.5 inches which I remove. I needed to get in here to vacuum media anyway. Once cleaned out, I was able to etch prime.
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Created the inner rocker patch, and used the old lower reinforcement to fabricate the replacement.
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Patch tacked and rough finished...
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Fitting lower jackpoint replacement
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Tacked in place
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And finished. Bye bye pinhole...
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Checked that box. I keep saying that I am done welding...but it ain't so just yet. There will be more issues of "hmmm, didn't notice that before" and in good conscience I can't ignore these little issues. I have another couple weekends of massaging my panel butt welds before the painter comes to take this off my hands. He wants to run the chassis back through the sandblaster one more time...mostly to remove the grunge from underneath the rear of the chassis where the first sandblaster missed/ignored. I'm ok with that...beats me heating and scraping.

I guess in the scheme of things, at least I don't have to worry about what color to paint it, as we are just going to keep it the original Adriatic blue.

I am going to need guidance from the board with respect to paint ...where and what color. Plan is to prime, seam seal, and paint. Then under coat and paint black what is supposed to be black...fender wells, underside of pan etc. I'm ready for the paint wizards to weigh in. In addition, I'll need help with the inside of the cockpit...what gets body color and what gets black. If you have experience and an opinion...or just an opinion, feel free to advise. Some of my suspension is already powdercoated, but I have yet to do the front struts and rear shocks (Konis) and the rear control arms. Konis will be orange, and I am guessing the control arm is black?

On my dash the black was found around any area that could possibly catch light from a separation in the materials that covered that spot.
Behind the dash metal where the defrost vents pop up below the glass that area was also black on the firewall.
The dash metal itself was a light coating of body color then painted the black in the areas mentioned above.
The rest of the car is body color.

I kind of went overboard with putting the flat black in the cockpit back the way the factory had it. You can see what I did starting here:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2668463

Yes, control arms were semi-gloss black. The few, the rare thread in the O&H forum has lots of good reference shots I use a lot for figuring out correct finishes.

Also, there are also a few threads on undercarriage finishes, but for a six, I like the pics of Bob's ( @burton73 ) #41: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2506810. There are more pics in his build thread.

Looking good Lars, who is painting it? Is it going up north to Crusty?

Lars,


there is very little black on a stock car
the interior floor boards are body color
the wheel wells are body color
everything is body color....


the original -6 did have a black coating (undercoating really... not paint) on the top of the front struts where they mount inside of the front trunk...

otherwise everything on the chassis is body color

the removable components... swing arms, suspension, etc... those are all black

Little bit of black on the side of the engine lid under the screens but that gets added after it’s painted.

Thanks everyone...So I am ok instructing my painter to prime after blasting (again), allow me to seam-seal over primer, then undercoating? And for the undercoating (Wurth), obviously the floor and inner wheel wells, how about inside the front and rear fenders? And what about longitudinals and under the rear trunk? Then once undercoated where required...body color everywhere?

Ferg, my painter is a guy that has painted my 74 911 each time someone has used it for "parking target practice"...also known as "hang up and use your mirrors". He is local, experienced and has a 1.8 914 we will use as a reference. He also has a trailer and a rotisserie that will allow him to get the chassis to Blastec (in Denver) and back to his shop. My rotisserie will not accommodate that transfer. He will fit it in between jobs and I will give him 60 days leeway. That extra floor space in the shop for that two months will allow me to get "other cars" in queue.

Tidying up the chassis for a hand-off. The heat shield for the muffler was impeding
my ability to straighten the rear valence behind the bumper. Not sure why it was wavy back there but it bugged me and I wanted to straighten it. Found phillips head screws under seam sealer in trunk that look to be supporting the shield? Really? Dug out the seam sealer and they came right out. Is the shield not supposed to be straight? Let me know before I attempt to straighten it.
Trying to get one more painter to look at it before I commit...Apex in Denver has mixed reviews. Anybody here have anything to add? PM me if you don't want to publicly give them a thumbs up or down.
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And more...
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What I needed access for to straighten...
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http://www.themetalsurgeon.com/

has done a few 914s

Ok...closer to paint. Hand-off may be as soon as next week. Mean time sandblasting parts and rebuilding the pedal cluster. Today, starting to sort parts that have not been powder coated or plated. It would be incredibly convenient if there was a thread which listed parts and their correct finish
As I couldn't find one...I guess I have to start from scratch. Feel free to add to the list and/or comment. If I list a finish that isn't correct, please set me straight. Here goes...

gas tank-black
oil tank-black
front struts-grey
trailing arms-black
steel front crossmember-black
A arms-black
hood and trunk latches-white zinc
nuts bolts-yellow zinc
brake dust shields-yellow zinc
sway bars/drops-black
sway body brackets-yellow zinc
sway lever arms-yellow zinc
rear mesh-black
engine lid hinges-body color
engine lid springs-black
headlight assembly-who knows?
strut tower tops-black
strut tower hardware/yellow zinc
dash face-satin black
rocker decos-satin black

You guys take it from here....

"You guys take it from here...."
This was where you guys were going to weigh in...hmmm, everybody must be out in the shop wrenching.

I may get most of these questions answered the easy way as Brant gave my son a killer deal on an extra 72 1.7 project he had. I will let him start his own thread as he dives into the beast. Fortunately for me, I can answer a lot of my "finish" questions by simply looking at his car...as it looks to be completely original. So thanks Brant!

Paint time.
Decision has been made to go with Apex Autobody in Denver.
He (Dave) came and looked at the car a couple months ago and I have been waiting for my turn in queue. I will trailer it down tomorrow am, and do the hand-off. A bit nervous as I haven't worked with them before, but during my visit to the shop, they had some $$ Porsche cars in progress and the metal work looked very good. My recent history with painters has not been great...so this time around I am going to get a written contract with a "not to exceed" clause. He assured me that any further sandblasting would be done on site.

I will need some guidance from the board as to how the body should have been correctly finished. To be specific...the steps involved in the application of "product". Such as ...
primer-seamsealer-undercoating-color and where on the chassis this all goes. I am of the impression that chassis was primed, then seamsealed then undercoated, then color over the entire chassis. Hopefully this is easier than figuring out specific year 911 paint.

He will get the car for as long as he wants...and that will allow me to decide what I will do for the engine. Original engine is pickled. I can rebuild it, or leave it on the shelf and build something different. I have a 2.7 RS spec engine ready to go back together, as well as a twin plug 3.0 MFI waiting to be rebuilt. The EASIEST thing to do would be to build the original engine, and save the hot-rod engines for another day/project.

I'll throw some pics up shortly.

Nice progress

I'm sure the paint will be a much better experience than you have had in the past

I'm not even sure if the seam sealer is under the primer or above.
anyone??????

So what you are saying is that you have space in the garage

Briefly. His older (mid-engined) brother is coming in early August.

Leif's yellow 914 stole the space under the lift. Cut-fit-weld...repeat.

These are the questions I need to get a handle on...anyone x 2?

Hi Lars,

Spray epoxy sealer first, seam seal, spray high build primer over the seam sealer then spray the color. I'm not a painter but pretty sure that's that way to do it.
If you want the correct answer pm Kent ( 914350 ). He painted a few 6's for some of the guys on here.

Yup. Kent is your man.

For plating and some other answers to questions I had I went here:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=101921

The photos are perfect for this sort of thing.

Finally send the beast to Apex after a few minor delays. He has become quite the Porsche place...speedsters to RSRs with everything in between. We disagree on a few things with respect to paint...so he will focus on prep and I will figure out the paint details. My shop dolly was designed to roll around the shop. Wasn't intended to deal with lateral loads...so I secured the chassis to the dolly, then the dolly to the trailer, then with some extra ratchets, the chassis to the trailer. And I still drove like a grandmother. Good news was that it worked fine with no issues, bad news was that he decided he wanted to keep and use my dolly vs his dollys. Probably the best thing about him keeping the dolly is that it will keep me from diving into another project. I need to quickly decide what I am going to do for an engine...
a) rebuild original 2.0
b) plug in a 2.0 or 2.2 S MFI engine (both needing rebuild)
c) rebuild 2.7 RS spec engine (webers) which came with the car
d) ...there is that 3.0 twin plug MFI Andial engine up on the shelf
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make it a 2.4S

12 straps...I use 4 to secure my race car...

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[/quote]Spray epoxy sealer first, seam seal, spray high build primer over the seam sealer then spray the color. I'm not a painter but pretty sure that's that way to do it.
If you want the correct answer pm Kent ( 914350 ). He painted a few 6's for some of the guys on here.
[/quote]

I have crickets from 914350 (Kent). If anybody knows him, tell him I'm not stalking him and it is ok to answer.

I agree with your steps Luke, now I need clarification on where undercoating goes (underside of floors and wheelwells?) and where body color paint goes. My painter is adamant that some areas like 911s are black. I am pretty sure the entire body gets color, and there are some select areas that get a limited amount of black such as the dash and strut tops.

I have determined that I will (store the original 6 and stroke a 2.2 T engine with 2.2 S P and Cs to 2.4 S specs and run some rebuilt Weber 40 IDAs. I could do an MFI engine...but that would be more complicated. And the Webers will look original. If I have cooling issues, I will figure out an aux cooler setup.
I am needing a 2.4-2.7 crank and rods, so if anyone here has an extra please PM me. Looks like a shop in CO Springs can open the heads up for me to 36-35mm and I have pretty much everything else. Engine teardown starts this weekend.

I am going to run 6 x 15 fuchs instead of the 5.5 x 14s., so I need to send a set off to Al Reed soon. Rear fenders are already rolled and from what I understand, a simple 205 50 15 tire profile won't have fitment issues.

So I have pressed out the bearings and cleaned up the control arms, and primed them. Plan is to press new bearings in and repaint. Two questions 1) as I will be using a hydraulic press, is it necessary to refrigerate the bearings prior to installation or is that the approach to take when you are using the PVC and bolt and nut method? And 2) black semi-gloss on the control arm for paint?

Thanks!

The guys at our shop just press them in. When I told them about freezing they just sort of looked at me and said why? But they don't often have the time to prep the bearing in the freezer. I do freeze them because they go in straight and eazy with very little force. I feel like that is a plus for a bearing you want to last for a while.

Mine slide right in by hand after freezing. I could’ve used a press, but why make it harder than it needs to be?

Ok, in the freezer they go.
Next question was black semi gloss for the control arm?
And the square backing plate that secures the bearing...black or zinc?
Mine was so cruddy it was hard to tell how it was originally plated.
Something tells me yellow zinc.

Hi Lars,

I'm working on the rear control arms of my 6 as well. I'm going to have my rear control arms powder coated gloss black (just my preference) and the hardware yellow zinc.
I'm using a 911 e-brake setup with Boxster calipers so not stock to begin with.

Freeze the bearings prior to install, I believe the arms came semi-gloss black from the factory, and yellow zinc on the bearing plates.

Post some pics of the 6 when it gets back from paint.

Yes, semi-gloss black for the arm and yellow zinc for the backing plate.

BTW, VHT gloss black Roll Bar and Chassis paint is a pretty good match for the black chassis parts. It isn't a full gloss.

Thanks guys! No word from painter...but that is par for me.
I need to do a big trip to the re-finishers soon. Other than basic nuts and bolts, what should my list look like for needing yellow zinc. Here's what I have so far...
carb crossbar and drops and bellcrank
backing plate
door latches
hood/lid latches
brake dust shields
suspension/engine mount bolts
shift linkages
front sway bar arms

Feel free to correct or add to the list.

BTW, I should say my comment on control arm and backing plate finish is based on 914/4 and assuming it was the same for a six. You might want verification on that.

Weighing in with an amateur opinion -

Car bottom finish - I know there are a variety of experts who have strong opinions on this both ways, but i think that the correct underside finish is the undercoating caught with whatever amount of overspray (underspray in this case??) happened that day at the factory. I hold that belief based on two things:

1) "Original" examples like this http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=338927&hl= and several others. (the example in that thread can also serve as a guide to a variety of original finishes IMHO)

2) I tend to believe that these cars were painted on the ground (or maybe on low stands) at the factory by humans, not on rotisseries. With that in mind, I see no way that Franz or Hanz crawled under the car on his back and painted the bottom.

Man you have some interesting engine choices, and while I am here, my engine preference for a narrow body car would be:

1) a 66 x 90 2.4+ short stroke with either MFI or EFI based on MFI components (S throttle bodies and 70-71 mag stacks)

2) the same motor carbed

3) 2.2 carbed S motor (nod towards originality but with a party under the engine lid!)

Love the idea of more torque and HP, but save the 2.7 RS and 3.0 for sale or a 911 hot rods. I have a 71 x 84 carbed mod solex cammed S motor which I think matches the persona of a real six almost perfectly, but there is something about the siren song of the short stroke, quick reving motors that take it all to the next level - sublime!!

Do some research over on Pelican for posts by Henry Schmidt under what he calls the "best motor Porsche never built". He is a long time six aficionado, could build what ever he wanted for his personal six, and guess what he had??

Fabulous resto by the way !!!

Freezer burn was the way to go. Piece of cake. I'll paint them and get them ready.
They have hard bushings up front with zirk grease fittings.
I need to evaluate the struts and strip and repack the drive shafts.

I am going (can't stop now) with a stroked 2.2 S to a 2.4 S carbed engine.
I could go MFI but that is complicated and uses a lot of the engine compartment.
I have completely stripped a pair of Weber 40 IDAs that I will build back up.
They were pretty nasty...and need both side shafts replaced. Probably going fiberglass amber rain shields for ease of maneuverability in the engine compartment.

Experts please advise on the refinishing as I am accumulating stuff. Also Denver/Boulder
people ...if you want to piggy back on my refinish order, let me know. Cheaper to do a mass order.

Great choice. Big fun!

So I am painfully aware of the fact that this 6 resto is now 8 years long in the tooth.
A lot has passed through the garage in that time, but there is no justifiable apology.
I just looked at the date on the beginning of the thread and it is embarrassing. In the last six months, my son accumulated a 1.7 from a good friend Brant and that has taken a bit of time to sort. We have "worked" most of the exterior rust and are now about to attack the hell hole. He is not much for posting on the board, and I am not inclined to post for him...his choice.
In the mean time, I am building up the 2.2 T engine to a 2.4 S Weber engine...parts on their way. I promised myself I would check in on the painter at the end of March...coming soon. Benefit of helping my son with his 914 is that I get to remember where everything goes back together.
So our goal for my son's car is to get it back together in time to do the 4 corners 914 epic drive in the summer.
Brant, how much time do we have?

Still thinking about oil coolers. There is a local guy to Denver doing some interesting re-configuring of the old trombone coolers. They can be made in all kinds of contorted shapes and they are always in the airflow. And they were pretty effective at dissipating heat. Anybody have pics of these being used in 914's before? And I presume they are made of copper with soldered fittings?

I vote 3.0 twin plug ....because that's what I have.

Fast forward...or back up slowly.
Apex called and they anticipate three weeks.
Said my "metal work" was all done...not sure what that means...?

I plan to go visit and do the seam sealing after the epoxy sealer.
He says he has the seam sealing products...and he has everything in the shop from speedsters to RSRs so I'll go with his product recommendations.
The 914-6s were brushed seam sealer, correct? He also has the body "shutz" for me to apply under coating...so I will need to be clear on where to apply that too.
My sons car (70 1.7) is on the lift and we are finishing up the hell hole. So while it is in the air, we will have a good opportunity to walk around underneath and figure out where the color is supposed to go vs black and where the "shutz" starts and ends.

This was the butt kick I needed during this sheltering in place. Been getting a lot of "other" car projects done (sons 914)...but the 2.4 S engine kept getting kicked back down the list.
Case is cleaned and prepped, crank and rods assembled. Parts are all here and all the machining is done. Weber 40s are rebuilt and the shroud is repaired and repainted.
Need to inspect the oil pump...decide on 574 vs 3bond for the case adhesives and put it together. No excuses now.

I am going to be sending a batch of hardware to be refinished...so I need to double check what needs to be silver vs yellow zinc (son's 914 should be telling) and send it off. Anybody local that wants to "piggyback" on my refinishing, let me know asap.
When I go to look at it I will grab some pics.

Seam sealer question...
Some areas of the car look brushed (trunks) and some looked sprayed (cockpit). Is there a thread that explains what gets brushed or sprayed and exactly where? And source for both products?

Thanks!