I don't think RD makes repo cdi mounting brackets.
If you check ebay they show up here n there.
IIRC AA makes a repo one (they call it a Control Unit Bracket, 914-6).
I'm not a fan of AA but not sure if anyone else carries them.

Check with CDI unit as it generally stays with the unit. Don't do what I tried- bolt the bracket in then try to mount the CDI........duh

Yes saw the AA one,looked a bit roughly made,pretty sure they are the only people making them.
I intent to make something similar and don't really care if its not the same,my cars not a pure breed
Mounted as they are in the original -6 appears they are tucked away from the weather is this the best place?.
Speedo appears you are powering thru this build @ your usual pace,I guess it must be a learning curve working on a different model?.
Keep up the good work,watching this resto with interest

Dug through all my 6 stuff. PO had gone to Pertronix and it was mounted somewhere...just not on the battery tray. So I guess I need to find a repro somewhere...or an original, or make one

First up, is the CDI mount stamped steel, or aluminum. I have never seen one. Does anyone have a used one for sale or to lend so I can make one?
Second...here is the "massaged" shelf. I took for granted (bad idea) that the self as stamped was pretty close. It was sort of close...but needed to be wacked a bit. Me thinks it looks much better. Comments?
Lastly I am reconsidering the 2.7 idea. It would need a cooler...period. I have looked at many threads involving creative "coolering" and I haven't found anything I am excited about. Maybe I just build a hot 2.2 and do my pulley modification to bring the temps down. As this is a stock six, I should minimize the modifications...whadayathink?Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment
Compared to the left side of the engine compartment...nice factory welding Click to view attachment

Keep plugging away....

I have kinda an S spec 2.4. Very entertaining and has not run over 180 degrees yet on a stock cooler. Highly recommended.

Great thread, impressive fab skills !!

Hi Lars,

The shelf position looks good. When we installed the shelf on my brothers 914 I tried to weld the shelf at points where it's kinda hard to see once the engine is in. The sides along the inner mount you can't get away from but you can still do a clean install.

The cdi mount is made from steel. I have the one off my 6 somewhere and cold take some close up pics for you. It should be easy enough to make unless your going for that org look?

I didn't want to butcher my 6 doing a front oil cooler install too. What I came up with was doing something close to what Elephant Racing sells. I'll be using the GT/PMS oil cooler kit in the front trunk with the least amount of cutting as possible. I'm going with the 2.7 RS spec engine so a front cooler is a must.

I vote 2.2, you may be able to squeak by without one, and if one is needed it could be a small rear mount.

Who is going to paint this?

You are

Six pack of PBR should do it...
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Welding and grinding plug welds...some ongoing progress. Working on shop addition for the next few weeks (weather depending). Need the space and a place for a lift.
Think I am going to pull the trigger on an oscillating multi-tool and one of these...
Dynazip 18255, the Dent Fix DF701 or the Sunex SX8200
Started a thread on PP on these and the general consensus was dry ice, dry ice. For flat surfaces I get it. And yes with a rotisserie, I can make any surface flat...technically/sort of. But I think specific tools for working inside wheel wells and other tight quarters would be productive. And nobody answered the question as to how well dry ice works with 50 year old "hardened by dinosaurs" seam sealer. I have the tool credit on Amazon...if I don't like it I can return it. Pics shortly...

The finished (mostly) shelf area...
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Looks good!

About time for Lunch with racer boy don't you think?

Ferg

Been quiet, but working. Almost all the way around the car. Now on the aft end of the drivers front fender...peeling the onion back. So where the fender is welded to the "bonnet" (lower horizontal below the windscreen), there is lead. Like on the 911 fenders, the 914 fender tends to rust by the fender joining panel and mine was no different. With that corner removed...it would make sense to splice the corner in and then re-lead. Obviously I cannot re-lead and then weld that corner back in.
Shiny area is where the lead is below the A pillar.

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My question is...on 911s the fender is bolted up to the inner fender in this area and a thin plastic separator is inserted as the fender bolts are tightened. Any lead work in this area on the 911 is done prior to painting. On the 914, given that the fender is welded up...is the required lead work in this area done after the fender is welded up? and how do you keep the slot between the top rear of the fender and bonnet from filling up with lead? Seems like you would need the equivalent of a concrete sidewalk trowel tool to maintain the gap as there is no vinyl to insert. Am I overthinking this?

I still need to repair the perforations in the lip in front of the bonnet before welding the fender splice in place, and there will probably be some leading going on there. But it can be done after the steel is welded in. BTW the Eastwood wire wheel undercoating removal tool is the bats ass in this area.
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I've used lead back in the day. There is a serious learning curve that's for sure. My explanation of the process is to install the fenders then go through the tinning/leading process. The key is the warming and paddling of the filler. You want to get it to a plastic state. It should not run. Lead is usually soft enough to sand, scrape and file. If you need to apply more to fill a low spot after filing it is important to finesse the plastic material and get the rewarming just right to allow the new layer to adhere to the filed layer.

As far as the seam goes, a piece of sheet metal should work as a form or a dam. Just leave enough space to slip a piece of 36 grit sand paper in there to final shape.

The one drawback with using this Archaic process is it burns the primer and any paint off the back side of the panel. If you have no access to retreat these areas you are opening the car up to rust forming from the inside out.

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Speedo,

Could you possibly post a photo as in post # 266 but zoomed a little way out so all of the vertical surface of the fender can be seen.

I hope to be moving into that area soon and I haven't got a good understanding of the anatomy of that area. I am intending replacing the whole fender and not sure where or how to attach the replacement.

Thanks heaps

David

Cary is wrapping up a detailed rebuild of this same area. Check starting at post #400 here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...9327&st=400

Moving along...
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Cut and fit and...
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And more...
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And finishing this corner of the cowl...
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And now the fender...
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Couple more getting ready to weld... Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Nice work Lars, keep it up.

So a couple of the 914 "grand masters" came up today to see if I have totally screwed up the splice of the driver side aft fender. Word was that it looked ok to close it up. I have measured and measured...comparing the driver side opening with the passenger side.
I went ahead and committed the splice.
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Nice!

The splice is committed and the inner fender welded up. Starting to rotate the car on the rotisserie to "finish" the welds.
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So if I am not going to track the car and the rocker/longs repairs have been done correctly, is the stiffening kit still necessary?

Long time since posting...but a lot of progress made. Decided not to add stiffening kit as chassis was not bad, repairs were correct and it is not a "tracked" six.
You guys have seen all this a thousand times so the dialogue will be minimal. At this point I have gone around the car 360 degrees and I am back where I started.Click to view attachment
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Moving on...welding back in the repaired bottom of the lockpost worried me. Quarter panel was removed which allowed the lockpost to "float". The bottom of the lockpost had welded so the shape might have changed slightly. I measured and triangulated and compared the dimensions with the drivers side 1000 times. I had to "muscle the steel in place to weld using clamps and voodoo.
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Closer...
With the chassis on the rotisserie, and the bracing in place...no way for me to mount the door to check for fitment. All I can do is measure and measure...and then measure a last time. Quarter panel seems to fit back in ok. A real bummer would be that it was either too large (needing something to be re-assessed), or too small leaving large gaps. Would really like someone to come look over my shoulder before I commit this back to the car. Better to have someone look at it and say..."no wait!!!" now than after it is all welded back up. I have beer...

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Once the q-panel is back on, I have a bit of welding to do on the bottom of the passenger side with the chassis upside down, (thank ggodness for the rotisserie). Then it comes back upright for a lot of weld massaging, and dolleying. Then leading all around (new challenge for me) and paint prep. First round of sandblasting didn't do a very good job on the underside of the chassis. Not sure whether to send it back to them for a second round now that I have a chassis dolley, allowing them to get under the car.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...hat-i-made.html

We'll see. I am ok with stubborn undercoating staying on the car, but there sill is a lot of crap (dirt and grease) stuck to the inner fenders, engine compartment etc. that I would like to have removed before I repaint.

Then the question of a painter...?

I have a guy

Perfect! Same guy?

BTW, anybody need these?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914...suspension.html

Lookin' good Lars

Pete

I'm serious about having someone look this over before I close up the panel.
Brant, Ferg...someone knowledgeable local? The beer is cold.

I can look at it. But not sure I would be more than a guess either
The measurements should be adequate.
Plus your dog not have the deep sheet metal and experience you have

What about my dog? Why bring her into this? She doesn't weld very well...no opposeable thumb thing.

Happy New Year!
I am done welding. Didn't want to bore folks with welding pictures. I have dressed my welds and ready to prep for paint, but I have some remaining questions...

I had to remove lead in areas that needed repair ...door handle access, wiper recess and gasket tracks in front and rear as well as bottoms of windshield corners. Picked up a 70/30 Eastwood kit and watched a bunch of videos, so ready to attack. You cannot sand this stuff, only file. Not sure how I am going to be able to finish "contour" some of these areas prior to priming. On outside bodywork (fenders, quarters), filing will be easy, but intricate areas are going to be impossible... like the door latchpost next to the door handle...lots of lead. Am I better off picking up some of the leadfree sandable solder? Or just go plastic? Hate to revert to bondo as it can't be an edge, it dries and shrinks over time and its not original. Never saw any videos of Porsche workers body finishing with lead. Maybe they used disposable workers?

Help would be appreciated...

Speedo

II dont have a clue but good article ,,Wilhoit Restorations

http://www.willhoitautorestoration.com/leadvspolyester.php

Lot of welding done here to mitigate rust. B pillar area at lockpost/vent area when I have leading "contour" concerns. Having a painter (no Ferg, not him again ) come take a look tomorrow to see how much prep he wants me to do. Gonna put some paint on this puppy...eventually!
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I've examined this entire thread as well as your softie conversion thread on Pelican. Utterly amazing....

Would you be interested in addressing the rust issues in my car?

Thanks for the compliment, but I am a hack. Self taught that stumbles through my own projects trying to learn along the way. You are supposed to learn from others mistakes.
I (apparently) on the other hand like to learn from both my own and others mistakes.
Now I need to figure out "to lead where necessary, and to not lead where not necessary"?

saw this on r3dplanet thread...lead alternative ?

Met with my potential painter yesterday. He doesn't do lead, but he loves All-Metal. Not sure how much more I am going to do before "handing off". I will dolly some of the welds, and level the floor dings...and probably some last minute welding. Initially I proposed getting the car upside-down and scrubbing the floor and wheel-wells to get down to undercoating or where the undercoating is scraped off... to steel. Then I was going to prime the bare metal and Schutz the floors. He suggested not doing that and instead allowing him to mount the chassis on his rotisserie and take it back to his sandblaster in Denver. With the chassis on its side they will be able to remove all the undercoating, grime and oil so that the underside of the car is bare like the top of the car. Then he will prime the entire car, and I will come back and seam seal and undercoat the bottom of the chassis. He will then prep and paint top and bottom. Let me know what you guys think...

This raises another question as to the layering and what gets painted body color vs black.

I am of the mindset that the layers go like this...
bare steel
prime
seam seal
undercoating
color
clearcoat (top side)

Also, Adriatic Blue is single stage then clear coat, yes? Modern paints are far different than 58 year old paints. What is the general consensus for type of paint to use these days? He will/can shoot anything.

Thanks...getting closer.

Needed to clear out some room in the shop today which required moving the hood and rear lid. Painter had suggested that I check fitment soon...as there has been a lot of metal added and metal heated after all the metal repair. Both fit well, and I was reminded that the rear lid needs some massaging above the latch where I discovered dents under the bondo. Not a bad or complicated fix. Front fits great, and I have to admit it starts to get the juices flowing.
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Looks great Lars.