What's happening! Haven't been on this forum in a couple years and thought I would stop by. Glad to see the progress made on the flanges. I had some PM's that I never answered. Never knew I had them and they are quite old now. I still have my 914 with subie engine and transmission. The flanges I put together are still holding strong and working great. I did blow a head gasket so I haven't been driving it lately. The cable shifter has been a pain. It's sloppy and at one point broke a cable. I am either going to do a rod shifter or maybe try an automatic. Anyways, great work guys.

If you use the awd output and mill the fwd rear case you can do away with the awd centerdif case and the bremar blockoff plate which will make a shorter transmission. Steve already posted some pictures of both under the car. Also I want to use the 05 leg parts including the shafts. The 05 leg case I have is busted up and unuseable.

Talk to bob Bigkat he fabed up a cable shifter that shifts "just like a brand new subaru" He says, using junkyard parts.

Does anyone have a pair of subaru/vw adapter flanges available?

Thanks,
Kevin

atsealevel914 had a pair for sale. Try him first.
Steve

Thanks Steve... I sent him a PM.

And if atsealevel914 should see this thread 1st, please PM me about your flanges.
Thanks!
Kevin

Kevin, ive decided not to sell them. Thanks.

Porsche is pronounced (porsh-ah) add ru and you got (porsh-a-ru) spelled porscheru

It Works.

That's great! I too am using an early (AW11) MR2 shifter on my Suby trans. Can you provide details on your cables (length, manufacturer, diameter)?

Geoff

That looks good Paul. The trick is to eliminate all the flex in the brackets to firm up the shifts. The bracket that is L shaped with the two bolts in it, will flex a lot less if he will add a gusset inbetween the two bolts and down the center of the long flat. The stiffness of the flat is not in the correct plane to pull and push.

The cables were custom made at a place in Fresno. I can get the name if you like, but most any cable supplier should be able to do the same.

That was just the first go-through, Charlie, to check geometry, flex, cable length and routing under the car, etc. Next it'll be taken apart, gusseted, then cleaned up and painted. At this point just checking that it works and the feel is correct and precise at the shifter. When done it'll also be installed a few inches back from the stock shifter location, for more modern ergos.

Hi. I love 914 shape. Could you please help me to find who make Body Fiber Glass kit like porsche 914?

Best regards, Pablo

Welcome to the club pablo. As far as I know there is no fiberglass kit for a 914. No one would buy it since you can buy a real 914.

The one in the photo is a Saker, not a 914.

Saker (not 914) with (among others) Subaru engine/transmission:



Opened up to see the cool stuff:

Pablo,

Here's a site that sells after market fiber glass 914 stuff.

http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/PORSCHE914.html

Also I've attached a recent pic of my car (with the subaru wrx engine). Just painted the windshield frame/cowl black and installed a new windshield with the rubber trim in preparation for getting the rest of the car ready to paint (black...and maybe some stripes). Also painted the top black.

Ed

Click to view attachment

it is looking really good. are you planning on making kits and selling them to those of us who are using the subi trannies? I would be interested in one.

I will be offering one on my own pretty soon.
Steve

Converting back to a tailshifter. Jackstands, you can never have enough:

OK, our progress report. This is from another stand-alone thread of this project, start to finish, included again here for completeness. This car already had a WRX motor, but the Porsche 901 just plain couldn't keep up so had to go. Anyway, the WRX five speed with Quaife gets introduced to engine:



The WRX transmission axle outlets are a little closer to the flywheel than the 901, which meant the engine had to be moved back to keep the axles aligned with the stubs.



Flipped manifold. Enough space in there now for an EZ30 six, easy. Nice looking hellhole too, don't you think? Still needs detailing of course, but first things first.



But moving the engine back meant he had to box a small part of the rear trunk. That's OK, this car isn't for hauling luggage anyway. Or lawn tools. Or groceries.



Cable shifter at the transmission. Beautiful work.



And inside the car, the modified MR2 shifter. Feels notchy, accurate, and good, which is what this is all about. That and more strength, especially in first.



A video of the shifter, still in the prototype stage, showing the action in the front and the rear.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncmaxYd1WNI


Ask Abby what she thinks of Grandpa's car. She likes to show off those pretty new teeth.



The water-air intercooler. It will go just ahead of the engine on the driver's side.



In the car, you can see part of the new cradle, just tacked for the moment.



Axles are aligned. Yes Porch, those are your flanges. I sure hope they're strong enough. I'd hate to break one, and we intend to try.



Business end, seen from the rear. It looks so good we'll probably go without a valence, gotta show it off. I can't wait until in the rearview mirror I see another 914 guy who's pulled up behind and is trying to figure out what all happened back there.



This work is being done by a wizard at a shop called 40-Thirteen in Modesto, CA. Quality of work is unmatched. If you're curious there are a lot more pictures of this transmission project, the engine cradle, what the car looked like with just the WRX motor before these changes, or more pictures of that beautiful granddaughter in an album at: http://photobucket.com/Corinthiano

The other big "while we're in there" change is changing from an air-air to a water-air intercooler. This is where we had the air-air before:



Not enough airflow there. One thought was to put a scoop on the bottom of the firewall, forcing air up, and if we found out we needed to we could compliment that with a ducktail spoiler at the back of the roof to create some low pressure over the engine lid, plus fans, of course. But wait a minute, take a step back and think how silly that is, to do all that just so you can put your radiator in that particular location, where it will still probably only work half-assed anyway. So we just put the intercooler radiator in the front in its more natural location. Done and dusted. Better aesthetically and more functional as well, so win-win.

This is where it will be, cute little thing, hidden in front of the engine radiator in the front of the car.



The new intercooler plumbing layout in back:



Seen from car level:



More later.


.

OK, I’ve been traveling so haven’t posted, but some serious progress has been made.

There's a separate post for this project, posted here also for completeness. We’re now officially past the jack stand stage, and those boxed in areas in the trunk are now painted.



And the intercooler powder coated:



It will look good with all the stainless steel inlet tubing. The manifold was re-painted after the bosses were removed:



How the flipped manifold will look on the engine, pretty clean:



The inlet pipe so we’ll recirculate instead of dumping it out:



Nice welds. I grew up in vineyards so when I was younger and thinking what I wanted to do with my life one of the ideas was to be a cooper. Honest work with good people around good wine. I still think about that sometimes, but if I’d known about welding stainless steel I would have had other ideas. This is extremely cool and I wish I could do as well myself:



The Tilton fitting for the clutch slave:



One of the adapter flanges. A little concern here because it fit a bit loosely on the splines compared with the stock Subaru. We’ll see. Hopefully we won’t break them (my son is a specialist in destructive testing) but if we do we may have to try custom axles:



A broad view of the cradle:



Genuine OEM Subaru motor mounts ought to keep things in place:



The rear of the cradle on the transmission end, the cable shifter brackets:



And the rear mounts, looking really good with the black powder coating:



What’s nice about using a cradle is how easy it is to remove the whole assembly. Not that we intend to do that a lot, but when necessary it’s nice to have thought ahead. Quick waterproof connectors on the wiring looms:



And Pushlocs on the water connections:



Then the axles, throttle cable, clutch hydraulic, gas lines, and the whole thing drops as a unit. Almost as easy as it sounds. I know Jeff ought to be pretty good at it by now, he’s aready had the thing in and out so many times.



It looks a little weird, but the exhaust should outlet in the “normal” place in the valance, if we use one. I don’t think we will. Normal on the right hand side anyway. When the turbo gets through chopping up the exhaust sound it’s actually pretty quiet before it even gets to the little Magnaflow. I describe the sound as the healthy half of a V8, pretty quiet to 5000 rpm’s but then it begins a seriously nasty howl.

Like I said before, Jeff does some really beautiful work. This is going to be fun.

Once the spring pin is installed the flange will be nice and snug. I noticed this when testing the flanges on various output shafts (I only have 4 and they are all a little different.) Looks great, is that Tilton part custom for a Suby?
Steve

Does anyone know what cars might have a long enough shift cable, rather than getting an aftermarket push-pull cable?

Boxster maybe?

[quote name='atsealevel914' date='Feb 17 2010, 11:50 AM' post='1274905']
[quote name='camaroz1985' post='1274901' date='Feb 17 2010, 09:36 AM']
Does anyone know what cars might have a long enough shift cable, rather than getting an aftermarket push-pull cable?
[/quote]

Mercruiser boat cables are cheap and can be found from 6' to 30'. That is what I have for my GRM $2010 Challenge car.

great work in this thread.

Can you post some dimensions for the arc travel related to the MR2 shifter and the selector shaft extension? I will be working on this shortly.

That's the cheapest I found too for the same project.

jegs has shifter cables up to 14' for $40. cheaper than any marine cables i has seen. plus they have threaded sheath ends unlike most boat cables.

I paid $5 on ebay for two 11' cables. They have threaded ends so I can put whatever I want on them to make connections. They have really nice seals for the marine environment.

Even if they are not threaded they are a standard size to run a die down. Make whatever threads you want on the end.

I've seen the marine cables for $20-30 a piece.

Well I just finished reading this entire thread and as of yet I don't even own a 914. Steve you had noted previously in this novel that you would be writing a technical article for an online 914 magazine, did that get accomplished? Where could a person read this?

I have not done this yet - having a job and a 4 year old kind of f's everything you had planed out. I also bought my first house and have that to deal with that (it's a 140 miles away from where I live.) Someday soon I hope - the shop is starting to look good.
Steve

has anybody tried using both sides of the bus axle cv? the cv is 100x6 and i think the 911 stub axles would work. i think the year range i was looking at was 76-83 or so. im not sure if the splines for the 911 stub axle are the same as the 914-4 has any body looked into this?

I too am currently a non owner. I really like the idea of a Subi engine and trans combo. My only issue is that I need an automatic trans due to nerve damage in my back. Is it possible to modify a Subi auto trans to work in a 914 application. Seems like it would be easier than a manual since there is no shift linkage to deal with other than a shifter cable. Does this sound reasonable?

Nice build. I thought I would add a link to the DYI Bremar AWD to 2WD. Interesting way to save a couple bucks if you have the skills.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=104513

possible? yes. I wanted to go the same route. you need a FWD 4eat. There are several ways to deal with the electronics and an lsd front diff is available too.

.

OK, we have liftoff. The transmission is in, the car running, and it's all excellent. These are those famous flanges (thanks again, Steve):



Closer view:



The cable shifter and more of the engine cradle:



Engine compartment:



New pedals (easier than modifying the 914 pedals for a hydraulic clutch master):



Cable shifter inside, and the ECU (which will all be covered with an armrest/storage cubby):



And the front heat exchanger for the water-air intercooler:



Most important for anyone reading this thread is that it all works great. The car's in California so I haven't driven it yet, but my sons have and say it's perfect. Shifting is notchy, fast and smooth, just like a normal car. Those are their words, it shifts "like a normal car". I think we've really hit on the perfect combination, retaining all the good qualities of the 914, the reasons I liked this car to begin with, but triple the power with a good strong modern and efficient power train and no extra weight.

This ended up being more work than we initially thought, but the results are super, much better than we expected. We did good. Really really good.

There are more details in THIS thread, and more photos HERE

And Steve, you need to edit the title of this thread. It's not a "Subaru transmission possibliity". It's real.
.

You guys going down the Suby path are doing some great work getting all of this pulled together. While I'm convinced at this point that I want to continue my conversion with a Porsche engine, I have been watching this and thinking about the possibilities of putting one of these transaxles behind a 6-cyl. since all of the other Porsche options I've looked at (915, G50, even modified 901 and Audi trans) are so expensive and still result in less than ideal shifting.

I've never heard of anyone trying to mate a Suby trans to a Porsche 6-cyl. Do any of you guys with the Suby transaxle experience have any idea if this is a possibility? Or any direction you can point me in to do a little more investigation?

Thanks.

kennedy for an adapter plate and or clutch, then do a cable shifter.. the reverse has been done for 911"s...suby 6 to a 915...they should be able to do a porsche 6 to a suby tran!!

Take a look at Andi's thread regarding 944 flanges, they are a direct fit and allow the use of 100mm CVs on both ends.
Steve

OK consider it done. Can't wait to see your car.
Steve

hey i'm new to the 914/subaru world, I have a 76 914, ready to start swapping in my 93 ej22t and 95 fwd 5 spd. I'm still thinking about the axle solutions and haven't decided which way to go yet. I have built my shifter using a 2002 dodge neon cable shifter, similar to a dsm. has anyone run into any bumps I should know about and I'm also wondering about options for motor and trans mounts, any suggestions on shortcuts. i've seen the mounts from smallcar, looks like an easy way to skip some steps. will these clear a turbo's manifolds?

To take the next step up the XP ladder, the shitbox is gonna need a serious power infusion. The 2 valve motor just can't get where we need to go because cost IS an object....as is engine size. The SCCA (in it's wisdom ) has a multiplier of only 1.4 for boosted engines so a 2.0L TT Subie would equal 2.8L for classing purposes. The last top flight XP car we came across was a supercharged Beemer packing 500 hp. I wouldn't mind being down 100-150 hp, but gawdamn, double is a bit much. Annihilation is the operative word here.

Autocross is a game of mid range torque and a twin turbo Subi would seem to be the ticket to get the job done. I have heard rumors of a TT JDM Subi motor..anyone got a handle on that? I'm thinkin' the 901 will hold up as we don't use first gear and the tires aren't gonna grow all that much..for now.

You probably don't want the Japanese twin turbo, those turbos are serial, not parallel, and I don't think ever worked that well anyway. Good news is that to can do what you want and keep it simpler. The later 2.0 STI engines made 300hp stock. With forged pistons and some general upgrading (cams, larger injectors and boost) they get a generally dependable and everyday drivable 400 hp. Engine as little as $5-6000 total if you're careful and work at it, more if you want. Would that work?

The Subaru turbos shouldn't break the 901. They're all about mid-rpm torque, and it's not banging brutal like a V8.

the tt motors are cheap and outfront has the header to make this work.. Two small turbos feeding one intake.. With the after market computer its a piece of cake.. I want to do a dune bugg this way.... The out put is still in the 280-300 range..

Click to view attachment

Great work. clean and tidy. I can't wait to see it in person.

oh not mine....looks like fun though..I have a single turbo

Very, very nice. I'm jealous! I still have a few years before I down the path of a complete resto-mod but your work definitely has given me some ideas when I am ready.

Sure, only 100hp down works just fine. Still in the research sage and single turbo dyno sheets look good to me. The 2.0L is a JDM engine and the "beef" is needed.

Come winter you just may see a conversion kit for 4 to 6 FS....complete with aux. oil cooler & all.

A little correction on the 300hp sti, it's a 2.5. TT jdm 2.0 was between 240 -280 depending on which body style and tranny and year and on higher octane fuel in japan. A 2.5 sti with forged internals, bigger valves, ported heads, cams, springs and retainers, bigger injectors, bigger rotated turbo external wastegate and standalone ecu with a good air cooler is gonna knock the heck out of 9k probably if you assemble and tune it yourself. In other words no labor.

2.5 with forged internals- 2000.00 minimum, pistons are 500 and rods are 500 but stock are ok, you gotta bore it or try to use drop in pistons bearings are 200 head gaskets are 100 oil pump is 100-150
usdm 2.5 acvs heads with bigger valves and ported 2000.00 jdm heads have bigger ports to start with but they have 2.0 chambers
springs retainers and cams 1500.00
injectors 600-800.00
30r turbo to make about 29 lbs boost 1200.00
goodheader 400.00
wastegate 150.00
arp head studs 150.00
intercooler or water intercooler 200.00 not counting plumbing
fuel pump 125
ati front balancer to keep hormonics out of oil pump 400.00
ecu 1500.00-2500.00
aquamist to keep boost safe and run more timing 800.00
these prices are mostly low
This motor will make 425-450 at the wheels at 7k maybe more on a good cool day with a good tuner pushing it but to be safe with getting gas everywhere 400 hp at the wheels for sure.

also oil dissapears in suby turbo motors more than inline or v motors so a bigger oil pan would help save some money down the road.