The NOS 71 wiring harness in all it's splendor.
This was purchased from Aase Porsche a couple years ago.
My harness had been hacked up pretty extensively over it's lifetime.
Thought it would be nice to have a fresh/virgin harness to work with.

Most of the harness could be used without too many changes.

Things I did change though included:

1) Relocating the fuel pump to the front trunk, so needed to add a wire into the main harness for this.

2) Added an additional wire into the main harness for the oil pressure gauge.

3) Rerouted most of the wires in the 14 pin connector that goes into the engine relay board.

4) Added a JWest fog light module.

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All the harness wrap tape on my NOS 71 wiring harness had seen it's better days.
Most of the glue had given up many years ago I think.
I removed all of the old tape and replaced with 914 Rubber's harness tape.
It is the correct width and has a nice cloth topside.
I augmented this with some similar tape of 1/2" width for doing the junctions and ends of the harness.

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Finally I switched out the old fuse panel for a new one I purchased on eBay.
Installed in my newly painted fuse panel frame with new fuses and a new cover completed this part of the project.

The chassis electrics are all ready to go....

As the engine gets built up, the engine wiring harness will be put together.
Likely going with Kroon out of Holland for this.

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Very nice work.

this is a great read... well done and keep at it

I'm back. Had to rest up a bit after the throw down on Matt's car.

Task #1 today.
Tune up and mount the AA 914-6 CDI hanger bracket reproduction.
Needs a little work. Both sides need a little squaring up. And the corners need a little rounding. This all done on the belt/disk sander. So you don't take off too much material.
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Then a new center hole needs to be drilled and a new nut welded on. But before that, the old nut needs to be removed and the hole welded in.
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Then a test fit before it heads to Rothsport with the 914-6 engine tin for powder coating.
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Next stop, finish welding in the right rear MadDog chassis stiffener.
With the 40 degree drop in ambient temp welding went much smoother and faster.
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Next ....................
One of the signature MiddleMotors touches. The floor pan plugs removed from the old removed floor pan and cut into the new.
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Last thing at the end of the day. Wiping down the inner long stiffening kit with wax and grease remover. That's where we'll start tomorrow. That's after we go and look at a used 2 post lift and get supplies at the welding store.
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Great thread!!

It's so nice to see another '71 1.7 Light Ivory to be reborn again! You're doing a fantastic job with amazing patience & attention to detail.

Man o man Doug, I just love this thread and you ability to embrace scope creep!

Jay, it's been a long road so far.
I think about 2-1/2 years since I purchased the car.
You'd think with me being retired, I could knock this out a bit quicker?
Steady wins the race I guess.
Hopefully we'll have the metal work done this fall and the car will go to paint over the winter.
The driveline (engine/gearbox) will be complete this winter as well.
A nice 2.7 RS MFI engine along with a trick gearbox with all the right bits.
Should be very stealthy and quick 914 narrow body and all.
Hoping to have in on the road by summer 2018, so that's not all that far away.
Lucky I'm a patient guy.
But I'm becoming like that cartoon about the vulture....patience my xxx, I'm gonna kill something.

First order of business today was installing the e-brake cable guide/cover.
First step, coat the underside with weld thru primer.
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Then glue it down with the electric glue gun ..............
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Then onto installing the Mad Dog Motorsports inner long stiffener kit.
I decided to tackle the hardest side first, the left. Which has all e-brake hardware and handle cut out. It needed quite a bit of tuning to get the sanitary fit that I liked.
1st. A little more space around the rest.
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Plus I enlarged the opening for pivot.
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Here's a couple shots for the future showing that the inside of both the left and right sides have been coated with U-Pol copper weld thru primer, the good stuff.
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Here's a shot of the marked out rosette holes that need to have the epoxy primer sanded off so it doesn't put impurities in my welds.
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Here's where I ended the day. Both the left and right sides screwed into place and ready for welding.
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Almost 200 #10 self taping screws.

Must have forgot to add last night when I finished. So we'll do this again.
Saturday started with fitting and trimming the back panel on the Mad Dog inner long stiffener kit.

While the piece is still flat bend the center corners out. Once you bend the long section you cant get a tool in there.
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Biggest issue of the day was that the holes to mount the back pad don't line up. Always something. The left inside one was pretty close and could be used. But I decided to enlarge it too so they all matched.
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In the corners I cut down one of the ties so it would lay down nice and tight. Plus added another screw hole to keep things tight.
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After the fitting was completed it too got a coating of weld thru primer on the back side. Plus all the rosette holes were marked and the epoxy primer was removed with 80gr on the 13" belt sander.
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After you start installing the piece with about 50 1/2" self tapping screws you'll want to slit the cone tie holes so you can pean them down flat. Which once again gives you a tighter weld. Which takes less time and heat.
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Here she is in all her glory.
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Arrows call out the elongated back pad hold down holes.

Super clean install you have going there, Cary.
Very nice... loving this build

Then we begin the tedious process of welding in all the rosette holes. Followed by the seam welding.
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Following the instruction sheet. Weld in two on one panel then two on the next and so on. Seems to work good. By the time I get back to the first one its back to room temp.
Almost wish I had two welders for speed. Doing the work on the rotisserie does have its weak points. It would take to long to climb to climb in and out. So I have a work station on both sides of the car. Edit : But beings that our rotisserie is perfectly balanced I don't have to lock it down when I switch from side to side.

Only other tidbit I can add. Put a tack in the bottom of the cone hole to keep the bottom nice and tight.
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Scored a nice set of early 911 S aluminum calipers this past week on Ebay for a great price.
I cleaned them up (sorry no pics), and they looked nearly brand new.
No corrosion on the outside.
Perhaps had been rebuilt once in the past?

Still sent them out to PMB Performance to get the "spa" treatment.
Might need pistons, seals for sure, re-anodizing, new compensation pipe, etc.
Will come back with an interesting or let's say unusual finish for an S caliper.
They said these might be the only ones in the world with this finish.
When I receive them, I'll post pics.

The difference between these S calipers and the A calipers I currently have is shocking to say the least.
Eventually I definitely want to get a set of alloy 914-6 style rear calipers as well.

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Is Eric still making alloy rear calipers?? I thought they maybe nla?

The guy I spoke with today at PMB says they are not making them at this time, although quite a few people want them.
Guess they were very difficult and expensive to make.
I'm a buyer if I can ever find a set.

I think Mikey / Mark still has to be set of steel reproduction 914-6 calipers. If you want alloy, you will probably need to find someone who purchased a set and stored away.

Yes, I've already got the 914-6 "reproduction" steel calipers with the spacer for vented discs.
Nice looking but awful heavy.
BTW....somehow my "reproduction" calipers have ATE on them. How's that possible?

Tuesday night Moonlighting ...........
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Three and 1/2 hours of straight rosette welding. Round and round.
My MillerMatic 180 is working like dream. Running .023 wire at level 7 on Millermatic mode. Millermatic compensates for all my weird angles and stick out.
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Back panel rosettes completed.

Sides have about 1/3 left to go.
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Rosettes are finished. Now its time to remove the epoxy from around the edges so I can begin the seam/stitch welding. Rosettes have yet to sanded/ground down.
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Looks like 5 stitches gets me to 400 degrees. 5 stitches is about an inch.

Spent 3 hours yesterday welding the horizontal seams. One inch at a time.
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6" flapper on the back panel. Figuring out how I'm going to finish it.

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Surprising how well I got the epoxy removed. Very few spots had impurities pop thru the puddle.

After the morning Porsche get together I snuck out to the shop and seam welded for another 3 hours. Inch by Inch ..............
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I'll try and sneak back out there Tuesday night for another 3 hours. Should just about get it done.

Look who's in the #1 spot in the Rothsport Racing engine room.
Jeff said the intake/induction goes on tomorrow.
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Now that got my attention big time...

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Very pretty.

Jeff Gamroth, owner of Rothsport, in the flesh....
Not much this shop can't do.

More Rothsport porn ..................

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O yea that is a thing of beauty.

Bob B

THAT'S not a complicated induction system.

Looks so gorgeous.....!!!!!!!

Now that the inner long stiffeners are welded in it's time to start crossing things off the list.
#1. Drill drain hole into new right engine shelf in Hell Hole. Your looking at it upside down on the rotisserie.
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#2. Attack rust holes found in the frunk/nose panel brace.
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#3. After cutting out the inside and cleaning it with a knotted brush. I found holes on the inside of the fender. Once again, I feel like the bearer of bad news.
Must have been packed with something that would retain moisture at some time.
We'll try hand forming the rounded fender portion. But I might need to create it on the mondo slip roller at Rothsport.
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#4. Doug stopped by around noon and dropped of the shift that needs a couple welds.
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#5. Then on to the primary project of the day. Rust sections is the frunk seal channel.
This is the section in front of the latch. The front fence section was removed first so I could get down to the lower layer.
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Here's a see thru shot of the frunk support/front liner fender hole.
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Here's a spot that I missed yesterday.
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Onto fixing the channel in front of the latch ...............
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Had to give my patch a little pinch on the shrinker to get the shape I wanted.
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Onto the welding.
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Gooder as new .................
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Then onto trimming the cowl.
First thing was to pull the window frame off the donor cowl.
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Then trimmed the cowl a couple times to get it to fit into its spot. Close, but we have another 1/4" to go.
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Here's another spot on the left headlight bucket.
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Will probably work Tuesday night to tackle this spot.
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Nice work.

Perfect timing. I have the very same set of trunk channel rust repairs as near-term to-dos. Lots of pics, please?

Tuesday Night Work :

Welded in the patch above the right light bucket. Wasn't real bad, but easily fixable.
Basically cut off/out the vertical portion and replaced it.
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These are all hand cut. Next section I'll have sheared pieces. Cutting some various widths today at Rothsport.

On to the messy one.
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Looks like someone had been there before me ......... looks like a patch underneath.
Which caused some grief while de-layering it.
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The de-layering begins. Looking from the front. The left channel was the last to go on. So its the first to come off. Basically with all the messy mig repairs and the metal degradation I just start thinning down the metal with the edge of the cutting wheel n the die grinder.
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Then I test the piece with the linesman pliers. 1. to check that I've thinned it enough. 2. looking for spot welds to thin down some more. With the rust caused metal degradation on the top of the metal. Some times the spot welds can't be seen. They have to be found.
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Wiggle... Wiggle. Pop goes the spot weld.
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A little more work the die grinder and the left top piece is off. Except for the portion stuck in the mig repair.
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The left piece is 20 gauge.

Then I begin to cut out/off the formed section of the light bucket.
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I did finish the cut out. Forgot to shoot the last picture.

In looking at the pictures it looks like I'll need a third size metal strip to repair the channels. I have the measurements for the ones in the yellow boxes. But the orange/red box looks to be a little wider.
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After I do these by hand and figure out the exact size. I'll have them made for future repairs. Should be available thru 914 Rubber in the future.

Assortment of sheared pieces for tomorrow.
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Thursday 10/12/17

Super In Law work ................
Used the 75+ bracket for the fuel pump mount. Used the rubber mounts from the -74 pump. Only issue, mounts are too long and too soft. Need to be half as tall and twice as wide. I'll research on Sunday.

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Thursday 10/12/17

Finished up the right headlight to front panel frunk seal channel repair.
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Forgot to shoot pictures making the patch pieces. After shearing them at Rothsport it was pretty easy. The HF floor brake worked great. Made the correct bend on the first pass on both pieces.

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Forgot to mention the opened area was treated with OSPHO before I left on Tuesday night.

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Needed just a little dab with the stretcher to get the arc.

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Welded in and sprayed with U-Pol cooper weld thru primer.

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Second layer welded in and coated with cold galvanizing.
Only thing I'd do different next time. Have a 1/2" mini belt sander. And only use an 80 grit belt. The 36 was a bit too much. A little wavy/bumper. Before the car leaves I'll go over the entire frunk channel and smooth out the bumpy spots with a skim coat of JB Weld.

Welding Note :
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Nice work....yep, those channels are always prone to rust & crud....had the same problem on mine, as probably most folks, too....just a poor design.

Cary -
Start a new thread about "Trunk Channel Repair", add all these recent pics and let's make it a Classic!
Thanks for all the detailed pics. Just what I need!
Chris

Thursday 10/10/17

Added another seat belt anchor for the right seat. Beings that this is a 71 and had a fixed seat and we've adding the adjuster and the seat belt pockets. I thought the flexible stand up seat belt receiver should both be aligned. I'd harvested a plate off one the parts cars so away I went.
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Cut the hole with the 3/4" mark on the step bit.
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1/4" rosette holes and #10 screws. Makes for a solid weld. Start the weld with stick out at the edge of the inner screw holes and wind your way out. Bolt all the way in to protect the threads from splatter in both the hole and the bolt.

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Heading to the welding store to pick up a new nozzle for the Miller welder.
Friday : fender and light bucket patches. Super In Law and Taylor are going to inventory all the harness tie downs on Matt's car and make sure we have them on Doug's car.

Friday the 13th.

First order of business is laying the Edd China cut out pattern onto the rolled patch material that Super In Law shaped last week.
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Trimmed it to fit. Then treated the backside with weld thru primer to protect it forever.
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Let the fun begin. It takes quite a bit tuning to get it in there nice and flat.
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