Next onto the inside patch panel.

1st. order of business. Add additional weld thru primer to the inside of the cavity.
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Then create the patch panel pattern with the Edd China tape method.
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Prep the backside again with weld thru primer.
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Weld her in ..................
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I'll come back and add the forgotten finished shot.

Next the cut out of the rust inside the right headlight bucket.
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While I was welding in the fender patches Super In Law created a new patch for the headlight bucket. His first attempt was in 18ga, too thick. Re-created in 20 ga.
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Here's where I ended the day ............
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I'll be tackling channel repair over the winter and will be referencing this as I go. I'm sure many others will do the same. Let's make it easy to find.

I'm hoping to have 4' sections created at a metal fabrication shop. This should really speed up the process. They would be available thru 914 Rubber.
I'll write the channel repair thread after I get the cowl repaired. Which starts tomorrow.

With all the traffic at MiddleMotors yesterday I didn't fire up the welder.
But I did have a little time to do some engineering work.

1st. Project
Measure up the rubber isolators on the 75+ fuel pump access we're going to do.
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Looks like I'll order a set of these to see if I can tighten things up.
https://www.belmetric.com/metric-rubber-buf...fer-p-5692.html

2nd. Project
Taking measurement on Doug's 914-6 VW-Porsche emblem. But I needed to round a taillight and rear trunk lock to get the correct spacing.
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Short day, headed to the Couv for a dinner party.

The "suspense" is killing me.
Can't wait until I see a fully functional cowling on this car again.
Everything is looking great.
Cary is a perfectionist....which is something I like....a lot.

Now if we could only get the rear emblem right-side-up. hahaha

Finish up the headlight bucket and drill the holes for the emblem and we'll be on to the cowl.
I'm kind waiting for my new Miller 115v 141 to arrive to start welding on the cowl. I'll load it with .023 Easy Grind wire for sheet metal only. Should ship on Monday.
But there's quite a bit of trimming and fabricating to do on the cowl before that. Primarily in the fender to cowl joint. Then recreating the 2 layers of the fender.

Played hooky from Rothsport today. Delivered my latest rally car dismantle to the body shop for some adjustments then out to Forest Grove.

Started with walking the car and welded up the nicks and 40 years worth of extra screw holes.
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Next on the list, Doug asked that I inspect and tune up the bottom flange for dents and waves. So out came the hammers and dollies.
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Then I tidied up the weld penetration left over form the inner long stiffener ties to the floor pan.
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Next the $$$ work. Drilled the holes for the 914-6 VW Porsche emblem for the rear panel. Plus I filled the two holes for the old 914 emblem.
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Last project for the day. Finish up the weld repair on the left headlight bucket.
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Very productive 5 hours. Fun day.

Amazing work.

Won't be too many pictures the next couple days. Lots of itty bitty detail work.
Starting with the fit on the outside edge. Its the first place I look on every car.
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Shot for Doug ................
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Decided to clean off the flash rust with Ospho and a red 3m pad.
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Go back to post #241 to look at the cut out/back of the fender to cowl joint.

Thursday 10/18/2017

We begin the reverse engineering of the cowl to fender joint.
Started with a shot from the Metal Surgeons first 914 World 914-6 restoration I believe.
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Emailed Pete at RD to see if they have a cowl/windshield in the NOS stash. If so, if he could send me some detail on the joint.

Then I dug into my own stash of harvested parts and found some more detail.
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Super In Law has his thinking cap on ............
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First thing this AM I red padded the Ospho'd cowl and paint the under side with cold galvanized in case it gets missed on the epoxy touch up before paint.
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The hinge post gave me all the info I needed for the reverse engineering.
Here's a shot of the backside of the hinge post after all the seam sealer was removed with the torch.
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Here's a shot of what some have called the inner layer. It's actually the front fender support.
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Here's a shot of the backside of that piece. Circled in yellow. Photo is the Metal Surgeons created part.
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Here's my poor use of Paint giving you an idea of what we're going to recreate to replace the rotten section I cut out back in July.
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Super In Law top pieces he's been working on in the other room.
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With the plan all set in our minds it was time to fit the cowl to the windshield frame. The frame had to be opened up earlier so I could get it to lay the flat. Here's a shot of the extension added back on.
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After a couple hours of taking the frame in and out about 10 times. Her she is fitted nice and tight.
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Then it was time to add the flange back on the cowl so it can be welded to the tub. It will be created in 2 pieces, the vertical and then the horizontal. This will take a little tinkering. This piece sets depth and the angle on the cowl.

Measurements down from the pressed out top roll on the cowl down to the plate.
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The work begins .............
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Fell asleep last night while writing this and watching the Blazer game

When time allows I'll try do a line drawing on how I'm putting this thing back together.

There are hardly any detailed threads on how the cowl is put together. This is great info.

Today seemed like it was slow going. I think I reset the cowl 50 times before I tacked the first horizontal flange into place. The location of the flange sets the up and down orientation of the cowl.
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I also peeled back the fender a bit to give me a little more room to weld in the new inner fender support. This also gives you a better look at the two layers.
Tomorrow I'll shoot some shots of how and where I'm measuring.
Both front corners of the cowl were patched by Super In Law due to someone forgetting to latch the hood before they drove down the road.

I started the day with adding back the end of the cowl that was ate by the tin worm and finish welding in the vertical flange.
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While I'm working on the cowl repairs Super In Law is getting after the bumps and bruises in the frunk floor pan.
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Two rails, some all thread and some steel blocks to pull the bumps down.
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Before I attempt to weld in the cowl flange on the right I go ahead and set/hold the correct depth on the left with a self tapping screw.
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Having that done that I went ahead and got to right side all set and tacked on the flange.
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As I begin the vertical repairs on the cowl to hood channel I determine that I might need some more 20ga so I make a run to the Industrial Supply store here in Forest Grove and raid the scrap pile. Which is all you need for most of our repairs.

On to the vertical portion of the what I'll call the cowl to hood channel. The big one at the top of the hood. Back to the workbench. I'll start with the right side.
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Slow going. Blip. Blip. Blip. Good solid steel all way across.

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Tool Whore moment : Roloc Discs. I've progressed from Hf/Chinese to Norton and finally to 3m Cubitron II. This was done with 80gr on a Snap On 2 speed prep tool.
Run at the low 6k speed as to not cut to fast. Bought both of mine on Ebay $50 and $70. The Cubritron cut the cleanest and the edge lasts the longest. Amazon. Last box of 50, $38 on sale.
https://store.snapon.com/Micro-Sander-and-P...t--P648542.aspx
Both Eastwood and TP Tools are making their own version now.

The line on the bottom is my sanding line. I'll grind/sand up to that line for a starting point for the next right angle channel portion. 20mm down from the top.

On to the left side.
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As you can see I ran into some bumpy stuff. I had about an inch of less that stellar steel. This is where Super In Law gets really frustrated. If you blow up a stitch. STOP.
Cool yourself and the steel down. Then go back and try and put super small blips on the edge of the hole. Circle the hole. Then fill in the top, from the bottom up if you can. Hard to do. But it looks better after you sand/grind it down.
End of the day .............

Typical work day at MiddleMotors is 10am till 5pm with an hour lunch away from the shop. I have to keep Super In Law fed and filled up. LOL. So we have a 6 hour work day. With me usually tinkering with shop stuff for an hour, so most work days are 5 hours. But until we get both Doug and Taylor's cars done, it will be 6 days per week. 3 at Rothsport and 3 at MiddleMotors.

I hoping I can go play hooky from Rothsport another week. Gamroth will be heading to SEMA. He'll be in/on the 400R display.
http://www.motortrend.com/news/guntherwerk...93-porsche-911/
http://www.motortrend.com/news/guntherwerk...93-porsche-911/
Rothsport 4.0 with over 400+ reliable long term horse power.

Some day we'll build both a 1977 and a 2056 Rothsport MOTEC 914 Type 4.
Wont be cheap if we use this as a starting point.
https://type4store.com/engine-kits/2056-120-porsche-kit.html

Thank you for all your welding and tool whore tips! They help me immensely.

When I blow through a patch of substandard steel, I'm finding I have better luck circling the hole with blips as you describe, then grinding the circle down a bit before filling it in. I think it just compensates for my lack of skill striking an arc at the bottom of the hole, but I'll take it.

Piddle day for me, as you don't get much done with 5 month old twins in the house.
I finally assembled my speakers today.

Since I'm using a vintage Becker stereo, it doesn't have much power.
So I picked up a set of efficient Alpine 5.25" speakers to go into the 914 Rubber speaker housings I have.
These are Alpine SPS-510 speakers.
Not exactly "high fidelity" to the max, but should be sufficient for the few times I want to listen to some cruising tunes.

I found the speaker grills on the internet and the 5.25" to 6.5" adapter rings on Ebay.
I ended up using JB Weld for plastic (2 part epoxy) to glue the adapter ring into the backside of the speaker enclosure.
Then just mounted the speaker and grill in from the front side using the holes that were predrilled in the adapter ring.
Easy peasy.

The majority of the time, I'll be listening to the 2.7 MFI RS engine winding out to seven grand plus I'll bet.

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2nd micro job I got accomplished today was the installation of my torsion bars in the front suspension members.

These are Sway-A-Way hollow 21mm bars and they had been backordered through Elephant Racing for about 3 months time.
Finally arrived at my home today.

Since I'm still using the 914-4 front suspension, the spline count are different than what a 911 comes with....perhaps 914-6?
The A-arms had been stripped and powdered coated.
The adjuster caps had been given a black oxide coating.
The bars slid in nicely; on went the foam sealing ring, and adjuster.
Now all I need is a freshly painted car in which to install them.
Coming....

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While I was getting dirty under Mike's car. Super In Law was busy creating the channel for the cowl to hood area.
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Tuesday 10/15/17
Taking off from Rothsport till 11/7 to get Doug's car finished. Jeff been good about it. He has Doug's engine and transmission projects going.
Plus rally car number 3 is at the body shop getting a new roof. And the Desert Flyer is on my lift getting a few engineering enhancements.

On we go to the cowl to hood channel recreations. 20ga and 20mm down from the flat cowl surface. A couple tacks to put it in the right place.
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Part flipped over and the excess vertical portion sanded down to match the channel.
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Weld penetrations from the back/bottom to the inside of the channel.
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I use a thin cutting wheel to delicatley knock down the weld. Then a couple differnet RoLoc disks to finish.

So in she went for a test fit. That was enough frustration for today.
Prior to the test fit I did blow thru a couple three times while sanding/grinding the left side vertical portion that will be filled with the foam seal. Can't leave well enough alone. Now that my patience has been recharged it will get inspected for over sanding pin holes prior to giving the backside a re-treatment on cold galvanizing.
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914-6 & 911 spline count are the same. Sounds like you got the proper 914-4 bars, just thicker than stock.

Back to checking things off the list.
Filled some screw holes in the engine compartment and on the fire wall.
I'm beginning to use a paint stripper wheel for removing the epoxy. Works pretty good.
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The spot weld cutter work on the MPS mount.
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After all the discussion about Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. Here she is in action. Man that stuff is thin. The push button, tube and nozzle work really well.
It will get a once over with the camera to make sure I have the coverage that I what.
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I missed a couple shots of the left end all trimmed up.
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Did you want a matching set of harness hold downs on the bottom
side of the engine shelf for the MFI stuff?
You were right, there were quite a few missing.

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Yes please. I'll be out on Friday bearing gifts.
BTW....the big 63 today.
Made it another year.

Thanks Man...

Super In Law went to work on the patterns and test pieces for the fender tops after we went thru The Plan ......................

I went to work on inventorying all the harness cable straps. I used my 69 build and a couple 73's to compare too.
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I started with the stack Super In Law created a couple years ago.............
22 gauge 10 * 40 mm.

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Quite a few missing

Something to ponder today. Where are we going to locate the "75" style fuel pump door?
Matt's and the OEM location are on the right side. two port pumps. But your's will have the third return line that will need to be dressed back to the tank.
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Not sure if this helps?

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Added Doug's requested 4 extra harness hold down straps under the rear engine tray.
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Then went thru the entire car and stripped the epoxy primer off all of the ground lugs.
Covered the plate with an oversize washer and secured with a nut. This will keep the body shop from coating them with beautiful light ivory.
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Then on to welding the flanges on the cowl.
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Cary - OMG... I can only imagine how many MIG trigger pulls you have into that car!
Hours and hours of "bzzzzttt..., bzzzzttt..., bzzzzttt...".

(Take plenty of breaks so you don't get Car/Pull tunnel syndrome! )

Great work and attention to detail. The car is looking awesome!

Oh, and Happy belated B-day!

I can just begin to see the finish line on my portion of the project .....
Finish the cowl and seam sealing are the two major items left.

Doug and I will inspect the old seam seal today that hasn't been removed to determine if any needs to pulled and redone.

Friday 10/28/17
Installed the shorter BelMetric rubber isolators on Doug's 3 port fuel pump mounted into a 75+ fuel fuel door. Much better ...............
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Then Doug stopped by bearing gifts ...............
Item number 1. Rear fog light. It has some issues that I'll discuss on the other thread.
From 25,000 ft. Light hardware to long and big. New brackets are miss matched.
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Item number 2. PMS rear toe alignment adjuster.
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Got to use some of my shiny stuff for the mock up for welding.

I have the MFI fuel filer console sitting on my desk as we determine it's location. I'll stopped by Rothsport and discuss with Jeff on Monday.
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Cary....

Always thought that is a fuel accumulator with a filter? Am I wrong?

That is called the MFI micro filter (the filter screws on the bottom) for the MFI fuel system. On top is the cold start valve/solenoid for the cold start system.
You'll usually see these on the early 911's just next to the engine relay panel on the driver's side in the engine compartment.

As far as I know....there is no accumulating going on there.
Just the micro filter before the fuel heads off to the MFI pump and high pressure injectors and cold start bits up on top.

Oh....yes this is MFI not CIS.

What a beautiful and simplistic system MFI is.

Oh yes, nice build as well.

Short day. Oil change on Powerstroke and mow the lawn before it rains.
Time to tackle the issues with the rear fog light. Stopped at Ace and bought a shorter 1.0 10mm jam nut and a 10mm washer.
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Put the new 10mm washer on the inside of the fog light to shorten the mount.
It was too long and mount was pivoting on the tube.
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Washer needed to be enlarged just a bit.
Mounted onto the mounting tube ..........
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Jam nut was a little too thick too ..............
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Now the lamp was mountable.

Here's the low mounting location. Mount sitting on the rail.
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Here's the one I'm going with so far ......................
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Here's the next issue. The plate is too short to be mounted like the factory did it.
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This is the plate that goes on inside the trunk. I just wanted to show where it lines up.

Here's my measurement from the taillight.
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While I was tuning up the rear fog light. I was letting the aircraft stripper eat the epoxy
off the frunk VIN number plate.
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I like this position best too....

Tomorrow I'll lay the GT lid on top to make sure the up and down is dead on.
Then I'll dial in the left to right. Needs a little more right. I'll move it to 2" and see what we have. I tried it once and didn't like it.

Put the left tail light in.
I think that will give you a better feel where the fog light should be mounted.

Tuesday 10/31/17

Started the day finishing up the rear fog light install.
Decided to go with 1.75" from the taillight.
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1st issue, still a little too tight to the back panel. Need a washer thats just a smidgen thicker.
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Make sure the nut is horizontal to the top.
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2nd. issue, need to change the location of the wiring harness grommet hole. Closer to horizontal with the bolt holes.
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3rd issue, backing plate is too short to mount like the factory did.
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Here she is ....................
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Then welded in the Patrick Motorsports rear toe adjusters.
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The bolt is there to protect the threads from weld splatter ............

Ready to roll .................
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Let the fun begin. I started fitting Super In Law's left cowl patch. Trimmed it to fit in the hole. You can see that I'll be reusing the original fender tip when the time comes.
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Cowl is a bit high which makes the gap look too big. I'm creating the gap with a tester and a new 914 Rubber cowl seal.

While I'm tuning the left side. Super In Law is working on the right side.
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