No, all of Jim's work is that way. I have been to his house and between his amazing woodworking skills in his kitchen, as well as the several other cars he has already restored, it is clear he has good skills and patience. Don't let his modesty fool you.

Mil-Spec...just paint it OD green

Thanks guys I need all the moral support I can get.
We have all ground on metal at one time or another but I have to say expensive new aluminum manifolds was a first for me.

One manifold done! It sure does dress up that engine! Next one close behind now.

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Thanks for checking in

Fantastic job on the porting. What size are the inlet ports? Have they been ported too?

Great to hear from the UK again! Thanks man!

The inlet ports are billed as 40 but actually measure 41mm, so no they are not ported further than received. Thanks for checking in.

41mm that's the same as mine then. I'm trying to ascertain as to whether my 3.0L 930/10 engine is standard as I thought 41mm was rather big. I think I've got a lot to learn!

Both manifolds on......... Sure glad that is done!

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Love this shot!

Big hole clear down to the valve!
Well, that ought to work!
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Did I think I would spend an entire afternoon yesterday on my accelerator linkage? Nooooooooooo

Disclaimer on the following posts “my linkage may be different than your linkage”.

Thought it might be a good idea to check out my carb linkage while the engine still easily accessible.
Turned out to be one of the best decisions I could possibly make!
As I got into it I thought I would document my Weber carb linkage set up.
Maybe someone has posted it on the site already but I couldn’t find it.
I am a lousy searcher.

I learned so much in the process and if I had waited to do this after the engine was installed I would have been up and down and a half million times and needed a second person to help and it would have been a real pain in the ass! I can see that now.

To Start:
Tried to put my linkage on. Didn’t get far. Unfortunately my linkage has been sitting for several years now and that sitting had taken its toll. The linkage arm ends that go on the pivot balls were dried out inside, and they were corroded plus that little cir-clip inside the linkage arm end that captures the ball was non functional. Stuck in its groove.

OK so stop right there and clean up every linkage end and polish up the little pivot balls. Unfortunately, I neglected to take pics of all that ugliness.
Key is cleaning all linkage attachment points and applying a good grease to every moving part.

While you are at it, make sure the rod ends work freely in the threaded part of the linkage arm end as well. Mine did not, some only screwed in half way. Make sure they actually screw in all the way because you just may just need that last bit of thread as I later discovered. WD40 is your friend here.
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I needed to turn a difficult/ stuck rod ends and a 10 mm open end wrench works great for that. Protect that rod in a vise.
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Next step, install the brackets for the cross bar to the intake manifolds followed by the cross bar.

As you know these are new intake manifolds in my case so who knows how this will go? I mean this was all together once but with different manifolds. Should still work though, right?

Now with the uprights loosely installed and grease in the sockets and also on the cross bar ball ends, tighten the bolts to the manifolds.

Nope, not even close to rotating freely.

Bit of tweaking on the uprights to release the inward pressure on the bar to free it up but still just enough tension to keep it well contained.
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Reverse lever positioning.

I found this to be about the right position as shown. Note inboard arm just a little past 12 o’clock and outboard arm a little past 3 o’clock. It is important that the outer arm not be much higher than shown as the arm should be beginning the downward movement. Your arm may be different.
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While at the same time the top triangular reverse lever almost horizontal across the top.
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So, you have a hand on the trans end and the other hand on the upper pivot and you can feel when the linkage if is over extended and there actually is kind of a sweet spot and of course checking for binding. Adjust the long link as necessary to achieve.
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Now remove the long accelerator linkage going to the trans and install the piece of linkage running from the cross bar to the reverse lever and check that for free movement. Note the linkage is set to have the triangle reverse lever flat across the top and the attachment arm on the cross bar is vertical.
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This link is critical to the set up. You may have to play with this linkage arm, because it is a very fine line between too long and too short, as it really affects the arms that go to the carbs from the cross bar. I actually think this arm on mine could be longer because I only had about 6 tread engagement at both ends. A little longer makes for longer arms at the carbs and my carb arms ended up very short.
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Reattach the lower long linkage that goes over the rear axel to the trans and check free of movement.

All linkage has now been checked for free movement and is together.
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Now try to hook up ONE carb link to ONE carb and I started with the right carb.
I chose this carb as it is the furthest away from the linkage on the other side of the engine/ trans actuator. Adjust the carb lever arm to maintain the locations of triangle reverse lever and trans pivot noted earlier.
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Note how the top of the triangle reverse lever is level across the top making sure it ended up where I wanted it when all assembled.
While making adjustments, disconnect the carb arm when doing so, and re-set the carb link length when done. My 2 cents.

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From the trans reverse lever pivot
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Get ready to actuate the mechanism by hand. Looking at the carb. note the closed position shown in the middle of this pic. Look at the bottom of the spring.
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Now actuate the mechanism and make sure it rotates/ opens all the way down to the stop shown (this is the carb. main shaft rotation stop as it comes in contact with the carb housing).
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Should adjustment be necessary start here
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But disconnect the carb linkage first and then re –adjust the carb link to match. In my opinion this is very important.

I still did not even have the left carb on at this point.
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Now install and hook up the second carb and link.
Adjust this carb. link to fit the already fully adjusted linkage and make sure it matches the ball height exactly before attaching.
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Actuate linkage from the trans again to make sure you have full travel on both carbs. to the full open stops. I would expect some minor adjustment to the carb arms but it should be set very close at this point.

Done. Hope this helps someone.

This helps me a great deal! I am pulling together a Weber setup, and the carbs I bought only came with the manifolds, the side plates and the rear pivot. Your latest posts have helped me identify what I still need as well as how to set it all up. Thanks!!!

There is a ton of info on the Performance Oriented web site about setting up Webers, including info on "blue printing" the linkages.

Glad I could help!

I see the post right behind yours says Performance Oriented has a lot of info too so now we both learned something. I knew there was a lot of Carb info on the Performance Oriented site but not regarding the linkage on the engine itself.
Thanks for checking in and good luck on your project!

Thanks gereed75 I should have known, that Paul is such a thorough guy. He did my carbs and I remember looking at a lot on his site on the time but obviously it didn't stick that he had linkage info.
Appreciate the input and I will check it out.
Thanks for weighing in.

I'm having issues with my linkage. We worked it a bit yesterday, but I'm not really happy with it. I like your set up better than mine. Mine is the Rich Johnson set, and, well, I like yours better.

Larmo63, Sorry to hear you are having linkage issues, that's a bummer!

Thanks on my linkage set up! It came with the project and works, but I have no idea whose it is and can't recommend.

My only complaint is that there is no flats on the rod ends like on my long linkage from the trans and that makes tightening each rod end a bit more difficult. I had to remove each segment to tighten each rod end stop nut because otherwise the rod end socket would turn as I tightened the stop nut and the rod end would end up twisted tight against the ball potentially causing binding. Hard to explain I guess.

My long linkage is Porsche over the trans (right in picture) has the flats on the rod end making it much easier to tighten the stop nut. And on the left in picture has rod end with no flats and the stop nut.
All the best in getting it sorted out!
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Well almost to that point……………………

Rearranged the garage and cars today and got these two sweethearts closer together. They are just winking at each other right now and getting acquainted because this is probably the closest they have come yet!

Should go in this week!

My "install, hook up, and get it running" will not go as fast as Larmo63, who I have been following pretty close, because I think I have a few more “details” in front of me. At least I think I do because he had a running car, which I didn't, when he started his conversion. Got some install insight from him just tonight.

Still will have to get one more braided line made from the tank to the engine and I have some extenuating circumstances with my emergency brake to figure out that I will cover on the thread. Plus there still are some dreaded electrical issues to deal with and that is certainly my least ability. On the electrical, I will have to do like a total refresh/re-learn because I had to side line this project from Dec 2015 to April 2017, and I have been only focused on the engine since April. Well I did order cool visors from Mikey. I also have a pretty good list with several other fun challenges.

Plus I need to get with forrestkhaag and find out where he put all these fuel filters he keeps taking about.

Someone recently said they were 90% done with 90% to go. Yup kind of feels like that.

My plan is to get the whole car up on stands once again when I get the engine in the mounts and then go from there.
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This is all great info for someone looking at a 6 conversion. One other point to watch out for - as I recently noticed this issue on my car, post-install - is to make sure the plug wires clear the throttle linkage on the left carb. Some of your pictures highlight the issue on the #4 wire. If you have super long wires then this is not an issue, but routing options can be limited on some sets.

Much easier to see if you're doing this with the engine out, also guiding / nailing down the plug wires is easier too.

I'm not sure why all of your spark plug wires aren't going through the holes in the manifolds?

Just wondered.

Good point! I never was real happy with the way that looked but it just seemed the #4 wire was too short to go through the manifold and look "right".

So one would think that the wire lengths would necessarily coincide with the locations by length but it turns out not so in my case with these wires.

The #6 seemed a bit too long so ended up shooting it through the same hole I had the #5 and it looked ok and was a good way to use up some of that wire length. But the that left no room for the #4 to fit through the same grommet in the manifold. Three wires would not fit through the forward grommet. In addition when I had tried the #4 through the grommet initially it was pretty much taught because of its location on the dist being near the bottom, it had a long way to go. So I left the #4 to go around the end of the manifold and was not real happy with it but it worked.

The fix: I reversed the wires on the #4 and #5 both on the dist. and the plugs.

By moving the longer $5 wire to #4 plug and #4 position near the bottom on the dist. it fits great and looks right.

The shorter now fits well on the #5 because of the higher position on the dist. and the more direct shot to the #5.

Yup looks better.
Thanks!
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Little project I’d been putting off was the engine sump plate. Mine was not in that great a shape so I ordered a new one from EBS Racing, where I get a lot of my new stuff, and had it sitting on the shelf ready to go. It was reasonably priced at about $11.00. I specifically wanted one with the drain plug. When I got to the point of assembly I discovered the original magnetic plug would not work in the new plate. The new plate was made so that the plug went in more like a pipe plug and so there was no sealing ring flat for the old plug to seal against. I returned the new plate and figured I’d somehow make do or get another plate. You see Porsche does not make the original type plate anymore. Maybe they should.

It seemed to me that the best solution would be to have a clamp ring that fit the bolt circle on the plate because those tiny 6mm washers and nuts had been over tightened so many times they had deformed the plate.
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Did some hammer reshaping of the bolt circle where it had been pulled by the 6mm nuts and then ground the plate flat.
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This project then went to the back burner in hopes a solution would emerge until now.

I couldn’t really think of a way to make a clamp ring myself as it would need some precision to fit within the inner and outer diameter of the bolt circle and would need the holes drilled pretty accurately. So I looked for slightly larger diameter washers but had no luck, because again, there is not a whole lot of real estate for larger washers.
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Having come up with no solution and now needing to install the plate, and wanting some sort of fix, I contemplated making my own elongated clamp washers. But before I went down that path I searched on line with no luck and then contacted Pelican Parts, Patrick Motor Sports, Summit Racing, and EBS Racing in search of a better idea. I was surprised PMS just used the new plate like what I had returned, no magnetic drain plug. Hmmmm. EBS had what is called a billet plate machined out of aluminum. Nice piece but a bit too pricey for me at $87. a pop.
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Made 8 clamp washers out of large flat washers from Home Depot. They are right at 1/8” thick so they should more evenly provide clamping.
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Here they are with only 4 complete. I like it and yes there is still room for that damn little nut.
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Getting the rear axles out of the way to get ready to install the engine.

My good friend toolguy suggested using a piece of 1/2” metal conduit as a support to hold up the rear axles and get them way up out of the way. I had PM’d Larma63 the other night looking for insight, since he had just gone through all this, only to recall right after hitting send I actually did have a tiny bit of experience on installing a 6. Larmo63 got back to me fairly quickly with some good pointers so thanks Larmo63 for that.

Recall my car came to me with no engine installed. So although I have installed engines in 911’s, I had not actually done it myself on a 914, either in or out.

I had lent toolguy a hand on an install a couple years ago and totally forgot. Well actually not much of a hand, I functioned as a spotter, mostly. When I arrived he was completely ready install a 6 in a real 6 car. Car up in the air, axles tied up, engine on jack, blocks of wood at the ready, engine all lined up. It went so fast it was over in a minute, of course this was not his first rodeo. So I really didn’t help a whole lot, I did take pictures only to loose them off my phone, another sad story.

The conduit shown is 42” long and tied off to the shock springs, providing the opportunity to tie the axles up more toward the center of the conduit. This positions the wire from the axle to the conduit right at the end of the axle and also away from the boot.

Of course I realized while under there tying up I had some unfinished business back there that I also forgot about. Gonna be a bit longer!

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Toolguy suggested marking my flywheel with timing marks before stuffing the engine. Only real 6 engines came with the flywheels marked and he's got one!

I already have the access hole cut through the cabin firewall but you never know you just might want to throw a timing light on it when you are right there with the distributor. Good point!

And especially with the 914-6 sheet metal having the cut out and the fly wheel staring right at me. I am going the share the good the bad and the ugly in my postings. As you will see in the pictures that Kennedy flywheel is damn hard and the punch wants to jump and trying to correct is futile. I look like such a hack in these shots, mission accomplished, but not real pretty. Lesson here is probably should have removed the rear sheet metal it might have made it better. Good luck if you try something similar! You really only get one chance to do it.


Shot of cut out and flywheel with no marking
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Here is the Z1 mark
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And a faint 5 degrees mark
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My KEP 228mm flywheel was marked already. Strange.

Nice solution for the sump plate ,mine was had it because someone had added extra gaskets and overtightened it,replaced it with the one Pelican sell.
I found the axles were a pain so I removed the RH side before my engine went in,but what I forgot to do was mark my flywheel .
Your builds going great.....not long to fire up time

After reading your comment I went and double checked my flywheel last night to make sure I had not missed any marks. Nothing there but my marks.

This morning I called Kennedy Engineering and spoke to Brett. Here is the skinny.

6 bolt crank they mark (yours I believe) and you have a 2.7 right?

9 bolt crank they do not (mine) my engine is a 3.0

Mystery solved!

Today was a big day for me. Engine goes in today!

I possibly have the best wife in the world because not only does she support me with all my cars and car craziness, she helps where she can, and today this was waiting on my work bench this morning! Yes that is a cheesy fried egg, my favorite and YES I am one lucky guy!
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I made this wooden cart a couple years ago for storage and mobility because I knew it would be a while before the engine went in. It was designed at such a height that a floor jack would fit under it with my “special tool” (details later). It was also designed so that when the time came the rear 2X4 cross brace would literally be cut out with a saw. That would then allow the jack to go underneath and the engine, even without the rear cross brace, would still be completely supported.
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Here is the cross brace cut out and I had safety blocks on each side but I actually did not need them. Additionally, I had the jack positioned under the aft of the tranny for support as well, but did not need that either. Cart was way sturdier than I thought!
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Jack slides right under and there is the “special tool” I referred to earlier on the jack pad.
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Engine is now completely on the jack only with tranny slightly resting on the jack by the handle, almost balanced fore to aft.
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Remove the cart and the engine was actually very stable on the jack. I credit the special tool. The special tool is located on the sump plate mostly and the engine case just before the hump.
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I don’t know how, luck I guess, but the car was exactly at the right height to roll the engine under the bumper, coil and all.
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And it just rolls right forward. Opps you're not suppose to see that cable hanging down on the floor.
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Here we come
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Bring me on home
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Even though the engine felt and was very balanced I‘m not an idiot, I still used support blocks under each side while jacking it up.
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That forward engine mount shown here was installed by PO morarrob and it appears to be an excellent job.
Good thing because it is welded in and I know he took a lot of time figuring it out and installing it.
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Up and past the axles
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And there we are home at last it sure looks good in there!
My goal was to install this week and I made it.
Have to say it went very well, did it all myself, with my lovely wife as the spotter.
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And the “special tool” is 3/4” ply 5 ½ X 7 3/4 Worked great!

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Hope to see some of you at 914 Day in Temecula! Wish the was done to bring.

You might want to get a patent on the "special tool" before someone else does.

Nicely done. Getting close to that finishing line now.

A little progress and a little humor.

Since the wonderful 914 Fun Day in Temecula last Saturday hosted by ValcoOscar with the help of many others , where I learned a great deal from other 916-6 conversion owners Forrestkhaag and Larmo63, as well as a beginning insight into the Weber world from Keith914, I got back to it yesterday. Having installed the engine in on the mounts last Friday everyone wants to know when I’m going to “fire it up”? I say probably 2 months and based on the entire afternoon spent below I’m probably right.

As I am sure many of you know by now and from the title of this thread I have taken up where another left off. Obviously I did not take it apart so mostly I am working to pictures and looking at other peoples cars. The best part for me though is that the PO sourced a lot of very fine parts with which to continue and now I am actually installing some of those parts I have been looking at for almost 4 years now. Ugh!

Yesterday was shifter linkage day!

This is a 74 car with side shifter, so in my treasure trove of parts was a brand new shift rod (body to trans) which is modified for headers. A beautiful piece still in its packaging that moparrob found as well as a brass trans bushing with 914 PN in its original bag dated 11/4/2010. I actually had everything needed boots and all. Took a bit of figuring out which way to install the bushing (shoulder in or out) and I understand the bushing was originally nylon like the other shifter bushings. Got that done and now time to button it up with the big plastic cover and secure it with the retaining strap. I think I got one of those.
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Here is the funny part.
I actually had that “strap” that goes around the plastic housing and identified by PN for the application, and of all things, in an actual Porsche part bag.
It’s a Ty-wrap!

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Now I can’t say for sure if I bought it or it came with the parts I got but I thought it was a little cool to have an “actual” P part. Even though it is just a Ty-wrap.

Turned out to be too short!
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I ended up using .041 safety wire and it holds it just fine. On to the braided oil hoses.

Well done ,looking really nice ,even if you aren't due start it for a while it's still a really good feeling to have the engine in there,least it was for me.
I used those console bushes and found they were a little sloppy so I had a machinist make me up and oversize rod and did this;
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You can source a large, narrow hose clamp at Home Depot or Lowe's that is used for Dryer exhaust hose. It works and fits perfect.

Thanks for the idea that is a very robust design and I can see it is a major improvement because to your point it is a bit "sloppy".

Larmo63 is right a dryer hose clamp fits perfect and is installed. No Picture just imagine a hose clamp.

Spent a fair amount of time laying out my last 2 oil hoses today. Oil tank to engine oil cooler (on the left) was not bad because I had already developed hoses from the tank to near the original engine mount. Getting made tomorrow.
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Thermostat on firewall to engine is going to be a bit of a cluster because of the close proximity to the engine mount.
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Many of my hoses were already made by the PO with considerable investment and thought. The front oil cooler hose routing through the air passages in the longs was the intended design, as well as the thermostat location, which I followed through on and installed because I though it was a good plan and I liked the idea. Getting from that 90 on the thermostat to the engine will be fun. I may not post pictures of the completed solution if you know what I mean.

Learned the other day that Larmo 63 made his own hoses and I saw them at least the ones by the front oil cooler and they looked great! I was impressed.

You should be okay with that hose there, just mock it up and have your guy make it. The less unions in the hose, the better.

Looks good!!

Thanks!
Last couple of days have been dedicated mostly to oil lines, the last 2 braided oil lines that is.

Mocked up and then made by my “guy”, well actually it's a she and she has made several really accurate AN hoses for this car in the past. Next post has the details. and yes less unions is the goal!
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First up was the AN16 with straight end and 30 deg end. Decided a bit of 800 degree shield would be good next to the header too.
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A couple years ago when I ran the AN12 front oil cooler lines through the heater tubes to the engine bay it all made sense and I liked it. Having an elbow coming out of the thermostat right next to engine mount seemed tight but ok.
Now, with the engine in place that hose is a bit of a challenge, and like Learmo63 says, the fewer the elbows the better.

My last post said jokingly that I may not post pictures but I am now happy with what I ended up with. So pictures there will be!

I always liked an original 911 hard line concept; tight bend out of the block, close to the engine and drain tubes plus away from headers. So I shortened a 911 hard line, bent, and had a fitting tig welded to the end. This hard line is similar to the PMS line they sell for $160 and I did it for $42. I had the line cut 2 years ago just waiting for the engine install.

Have to say the first hose approach was a bunch of close proximity elbows and it was nuts.
The big spiral approach is going to be it! Just a bit of clamping and I’m done with oil system.

Seems like baby steps but progress none the same. And many thanks to my hose"guy"
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are your zip ties also 800 degrees resistant

They make ss zip ties, or you can use ss safety wire, and just twist it on the end.

Everything else is looking great, making much more progress than I am, keep it up.

Thanks!
Good point they are not! I was looking at that when I got done.
Safety wire it is!
Thanks for looking in! Hope you're making progress on your project.

Porschetub, How did you fabricate and attach the second bracket/boss to support the second bronze bushing on the shift linkage console?

2015
Seat Rail Cross Member Repair Sept / Oct 2015
Not sure why I didn’t post before but a host of reasons as things came to a screeching halt the end of 2015.

Disclaimer:
You have to cut me some slack here as I had not owned a 914 prior to this and it came with giant 911 seats just sitting in it not bolted in at all. When I originally took the seats out I noticed there was no seat bracket anything, so I knew I had a problem right there. But you don’t know what you don’t know.

By Sept 2015 I had spent countless hours IN the car with wiring and the rear firewall insulation and never, and I mean never, noticed until one day I was looking at pictures of an interior on 914 World (and that just might be Andy’s) and I saw this beauty.
Look at this perfect yellow floor, mine is ugly one below
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Do you see what I saw? The damn cross rail did not go all the way across the drivers side on mine, I mean WTF? Now I realized I was really was missing something! It was cut completely off! Welds ground like it was never there!! All the hinge brackets and hinges gone! Flat floor! Covered with a patchwork of sound deadening. I do know the owner before moparrob had Sparco seat but not much more than that. Passenger side seat hinges ground off.
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Well shit I got to fix this at least for structural integrity anyway and I wanted to be able to run stock seats and who knows maybe someday Scheels ( I mean I saw Larmo63’s Scheels at 914 Fun Day and I’m Jealous and that is what actually refreshed my memory of this wonderful mess).
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I had by this time new German glass front and non German rear installed (another story for another day that I would just as soon forget) so I fashioned some partitions out of hard board for sparks.
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The only place I could find the half cross rail was AA but I was happy to be able to find just a half. And it actually was a pretty nicely made piece and did not require a lot of customization to fit it in. Not the welding expertise of mb911 but I got it done! Kind of a tight area too.
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Installation of seat brackets was a royal pain but they are even and level. Picture of completed to follow.
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Completed job 2015 cross member
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And with stock seats installed
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But in doing the post above about 2015 I decided to remove the seats and see what all I still have left to do in there. My day was ruined when this handle broke off moving the seat forward. This all gets really frustrating sometimes and it just doesn’t pay to get out of bed. Killer is I sold my extras for cheap at a swap meet hoping somebody could use them.
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Interesting handbrake setup,that would work well surely,good progress going on here .