The nice part of the removable mufler heat shield is I didn't have to contend with it while welding in the mounting brackets...But on the passenger side I did have to contend with the tow hook bracket. After the welds were in place I ground them flush for a better finished appearance

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On the drivers side there was nothing that interfered with the install, except seam sealer that was nearby.....just a small fire....

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Once the mounts were in it was time for the supports to go in. These came with no holes drilled so I drilled 8 holes in each one to insure the center portion of the metal was well attached.

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After confirming the orientation of the supports (thanks Montreal 914 & Luke M), the areas were sanded clean as well as sanding the coating off the support pieces.

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Ive seen these just spot welded, but I decided to weld the entire perimeter of them as well. Then grind the welds to blend them to the floor, They definately aren't going to pop any spot welds....

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On the passenger side I just repeated the process, being careful not to weld over the number in the trunk metal. The nice thing is you can actually see the heat signature of the bracket underneath. My welds aren't to straight, trying to get used to welding with bifocals sucks.

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Then ground all the welds flat and blended them into the floor, again being careful not to get near the number.

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So...for the week, I accomplished 80 percent of what i wanted to get done, even with my demon Dodge truck breaking on me. I bet you guys can figure out what I really am not looking forward to, based on the item left on the white board....lol.

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Boy I thought these cars, nearing fifty year old were bad to work on, till I had to change the front bearing hubs on my Dodge truck this week. 4 days of work on the damned truck and still not done . I want to get back to my beloved 914.

I just re-read this thread and Kevin you are doing a great job on this car. Nice work and great progress. I bet you are off the rotisserie in no time.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I hope to be off the rotisserie by about the end of February. As long as the weather holds up.

Well, finally got everything fixed on my truck. Then had to clean up the garage...So I decided to just make it an all around cleaning day

Started out emptying some of the boxes that just came from Colorado. Found one of my old 17 mm brake master cylinders. It is amazing how nasty these things get, out of sight, out of mind.

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After removing the gromets and other attachments, I plugged the holes. My wife makes fun of me because I save every cap and plug that comes on new parts...Ha Ha, Now you know why.

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Then I spent about 30 minutes blasting all the rust and dirt away. Now the only problem is it needs rebuilding. Does anyone know where or even if I can find a rebuild kit for it?

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Then blasted a hole bunch of retaining hardware for the brake lines.

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Then found a box with Misc. hinges in it. Some came off the car I am actually working on (green) Others came from the parts car I was dismantling in Colorado. The P O of that car painted what was originally Orange and turned it into a psychodelic disco car......The custom blackened torch look also came from the disco car

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Blasted all of them clean and ready for primer

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Then came the boxes of suspension parts....

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I love clean parts. The only thing better than clean parts....is painted parts.

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Last but not least for the day, I had to find a place for all the small parts I un-boxed. So I labled several of the storge bin drawers and started filling them up....

and now it is time

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Well, that beats my boxes of ziplock bags!

I don't know Bob, you had all your stuff bagged and tagged and very orderly. Unfortunately mine wasn't done as it came off of the car, so now I am spending an inordinate amount of time sorting things out. I was just lucky enough to get these hardware drawer sets when the local hardware store upgraded. They sold off the old stuff for $2.00 per set, perfect timing.

Today started off with a nice surprise delivery from Belmetric. My goal is to replace as much of the old hardware with new things

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So I started breaking it down into baggies by what any one area required, so for instance
all hardware required for the sway bar was bagged together. I figure that way when I start to reassemble this car, all I have to do is pull out the bag of new hardware. I also did each item twice, so when I start my second car I will already have the hardware in order.

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Then I started to put the seat mounts back into the car. I will have to order two new ones since I cand find the second set.....After prepping the mount and the floor, I sprayed those areas with weld through primer, since they will never see the light of day again.

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Positioned the mount using the seat rails and then welded the mount in....one down three to go. While I was doing this I had another local 914er stop by. Randy and I chatted for over an hour as he looked at my project car. It was hard not to be distracted by the beautiful signal orange 914 he drove in with and parked right where I could see it....Great to meet another 914 enthusiast.

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This is impressive stuff… love the new hardware, how much was that order if you don’t mind me asking? I may go that route instead of trying to clean every little bit up. Also, what’s your sandblasting set up? Mine is slow, tedious, loud and generally sucks.. may need an upgrade of some sort. I’d farm it out but there doesn’t seem to be anyone who does blasting without powder coating.


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[quote name='Literati914' date='Dec 17 2021, 08:09 PM' post='2967781']
This is impressive stuff… love the new hardware, how much was that order if you don’t mind me asking? I may go that route instead of trying to clean every little bit up. Also, what’s your sandblasting set up? Mine is slow, tedious, loud and generally sucks.. may need an upgrade of some sort. I’d farm it out but there doesn’t seem to be anyone who does blasting without powder coating.


I found that cleaning was way to time consuming, unless it is a specialized 914 piece of hardware. I am buying for two cars, so this order was about $130.00. But that also gives me extra. I use Bel Metric, and they seem to have most everything we need for our 914s. If it is a specialized piece I blast them and then use Finishing and Plating services in Kenosha WI (https://www.fpswi.com/) to plate the items...nice folks and reasonable pricing.

As for my blasting, I just use my blast cabinet that came from Harbor Freight. Mine too is noisy, but only because my compressor is in the garage near where I am working, until I get my shop built, then the compressor will be isolated.

used to clean all of my parts as well, but some just benefit from a bit more attention. Feel free to contact me if you have more questions or just want to talk 914's

The subject of rebuilding a MC causes quite stir with this crowd. I'm surprised that the Peanut Gallery didn't gasp and cry FOUL. I can't help but think they've never rebuilt one. I rebuilt several MC's years ago when I was strapped for cash. To answer your question; I'm not aware of a vendor that sells those. I would want to know that the rebuild kit wasn't some Chinese POS. I save all of those end caps also and they do come in handy from time to time. If you end up buying another MC keep the old one as a template for your clutch adapter plate that bolts on the pedal cluster. You would need to enlarge the center hole to allow a 19mm MC. if you're buying your own. If you're going the Tilton route disregard. Stay after it and keep posting.

Thanks for your reply, I too have rebuilt many master cylinders over the years without any issues, so I don't see it as an issue. However I agree that I would never rebuild anything with junk chinese parts. At this point I plan to upgrade to a 19 mm MC, but I hate to just throw away any original parts of a 914. Also, thanks for the encouragement. I love being retired as now I can give my cars allot of undivided attention.

So, since today is dreary and rainy, I decided to get the first batch of parts cleaned and blasted to go to FPS for replating. Most of the pieces are 914 specific, but some is the hader to find nuts and bolts.

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Since we are starting a new week, I decided to quit putting off the jobs that I really didn't want to tackle. One of those being the front trunk seal channels where they meet the Cowling and then into that narrow channel where the fender meets. The driver's side isnt real bad, so I think I can get away with tack welding the pin holes, unless I run ito rotted metal. After pealing back the Seam Sealer it appears that there is mostly surface rust. There has been part of the channel already replaced previously, so it is pretty solid. I will tack up where it wasn't quite welded right, and clean it up and apply ospho and see how it turns out.

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The passenger side was a different story . Luckily the rust damage is limited to the actual fender flange, but cutting it out without damaging the cowell is going to be a PIA. I have looked at it from the top and from the wheel well and there just isn't a good way to get at the damaged area.......Hmmmm.....

Top View

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Wheel Well View

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So I went at it from both ways...Sometimes using air tools and sometimes the old fashioned way...

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The good thing is I only had to cut back about three inches to get to good metal. But the hole looks gruesome:

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After cutting a corresponding size piece of sheet metal to fit the hole, I added a tab so that it covers up the hole that was left in the factory where the three panels come together that they filled with tons of seam sealer.

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Got the patch welded in from the wheel well side, now just a little bit of dressing up from the visible side and that dreaded repair will be done

Woke up to a cold and rainy day here inTexas....So decided to fill in the gaping hole where the drivers side fender was cut to accomodate the fender flare.

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After a couple of hours of test fits, realignments and cutting and trimming, I finally got to a point that I was happy with the fit. But to be sure, I guaged the passenger side with a flexible template. I did this using the front firewall and carried the straight line from the center of the passenger fender over to the center of the drivers side.

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I was very pleased with the fit on the driver's side when compared:

So starting at the center alignment mark, I tack welded it about every four inces toward the front of the car. Added additional tacks in the portions of the sharp curves to keep the alignment and not make any stress points or bends.

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After completing the front half I made sure the bottom of the new fender lined up with the old fender portion where the brace is and clamped it in place. This will all be trimmed to match after the entire fender is tacked in.

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Then I repeated the process from the center match point moving to the rear of the new fender.

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The alignment was spot on at the rear. I leave the channel from the old fender in place where the rocker panel used to mount at the front and will use it to mount the new flared rocker panel.

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Here is a pic with the entire fender tacked in place. I started to finish the welding when for some reason my good old, and I do mean old, Craftsman welder decided to take a dump... So I guess I'll be getting a new welder for Christmas before I can do any more with the fender(s). Since I am done for the day I guess I will go drink a beer

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Looking good.

I also started with a Craftsman MIG, about 30 years ago. Eventually it quit, and I replaced it with a Hobart.

Nice work!

Well I got the new welder ordered (Merry Christmas to me) but since body work is pretty much on hold until it gets here, I decided to clean up some engine tin today.

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On my brothers 914 I ended up trimming both the flare bottom and bottom of the factory fender. Butt welded them together.