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Puebloswatcop
Overall she did great in picking out the Porsche parts, however if anyone needs a PTO clutch out of a tractor or some lug nut covers for a motorhome, I gotcha covered...lol

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Puebloswatcop
Spent part of the afternoon cleaning up the parts my daughter brought me. The vents had 50 years of nasty dirt and grime in them. so I sprayed them down with Dawn Powerwash.....Hardly touched the nasty build up. So I ended up removing the front grills and scrubbing them from the inside out.

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Puebloswatcop
After carefully prying the front grill and the rear collector from the main housing I sprayed them again with Power wash and let them soak. Then scrubbed them with an old tooth brush (won't be using that on my teeth again...gross) and it got about 99% of the yuk out of the vents....

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Puebloswatcop
One thing to pay attention to when re-assembling is the orientation of the shutoff wheel.
The smooth side raised circle goes towards the vent vains and the side with the rubber o-ring goes toward the outside body.

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Puebloswatcop
And of course then you have to put the hose adaptor back onto the vent assembly. The biggest thing about taking these apart is to remember they are 50 years old so pry gently and only enough to get the tabs open. If there is allot of crud holding pieces together, wash them as best you can before trying to take them apart.

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Puebloswatcop
Then I cleaned up the Knee bolsters and other trim. I first cleaned them with clear water on a paper towel to get the heavy dirt off of them, then used Meguiars Gold Class leather cleaner to finish them.

On the knee bolsters you can see one has allot of sag in it. It has no metal trim strip. The second one had the metal strip which seems to add a ton of rigidity to it. I am not sure if it is an early versus late style or what, so maybe someone can help me out here. I looked in the books I have and can't find any explaination for the difference.

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Puebloswatcop
Unfortunately they both show the typical crack issues, although the one with the metal trim strip only has one minor crack while the other has to more prominate cracks, I guess from the allowaed flex without the metal trim. Still both are usable, especially if I can find a way to fill the cracks.

With metal trim

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Without trim

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Puebloswatcop
The speaker grills are actually in pretty remarkable condition....not perfect but pretty darn good. None of the bars are broken or missing. There is a little bit of overspray on them, (not sure how this happens), and there are two minor chips in the plastic, on the same mounting holes....but I certainly wouldn't shy away from using these originals.

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Puebloswatcop
More body work today...the front drivers side fender.

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Puebloswatcop
After about 4 hours of work, I finally got the shape I wanted. As well as filling in an uneven area on top of the fender where the Antenna hole was deleted.

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Puebloswatcop
And now the 4th and final fender is done being shaped. Still plenty of refinement to be done, but hope to have it all in primer very soon.....

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Puebloswatcop
Managed to get the Drivers side of the car shot with 2K Epoxy this morning before the temp and humidity got to outrageous.

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Puebloswatcop
Since it was to hot to paint today, I decided to look at both of the engine cases I had and decide which one to use in this project. But first some cleaning was in order.

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Puebloswatcop
So I sprayed it with degreaser and let it soak for about 30 minutes. Then blasted it with the high pressure washer. I have to admit the water that was splashing back on me felt pretty good in this heat.

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Puebloswatcop
And with the heavy grime gone, I moved back inside, where at least I have some control over the temperature.

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Puebloswatcop
Now I can read the engine number and start to remove all of the smaller items that werent removed when I split the engine case (2 years ago).

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Puebloswatcop
First was to remove the front oil control piston. So I carefully removed the cover using the largest screw diver I had. Then using a very long set of needle nose pliers (that one of the tips is bent outward) I pulled out the piston. As you can see the piston looks pretty grungy.

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Puebloswatcop
Then to remove the second oil control piston. This one takes a 14 mm triple square bit. Thats what I love about these cars, there are so many types of hardware it allows me to be a tool hound.

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Puebloswatcop
While wiping all the parts down, I noticed that the hone in the side of this piston was completely blocked with grime. I dug out a pipe cleaner ( you older guys know what these are) and cleaned the hole out.

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Puebloswatcop
after cleaning the parts I began bagging them. Since I have 2 engines that are being torn down at the same time, I made tags to identify which engine the parts came from. While I know most of theses parts are interchangeable, but I like to keep them with the engine from which they were removed when I can.

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Puebloswatcop
On this engine the front oil galley plus is a threaded plug. it is an 8 mm hex. My 74 1.8 engine only has a press in plug at this location, so not sure if someone had this done, or if they changed the plug on later cars. You can see the crud on thee inside of plug. thats after being wiped clean, gonna have to soak it in parts cleaner for awhile to get that gunk off.

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Puebloswatcop
After getting everything accessible from the outide removed I separated the case halves once again. most of the bearing halves were still in the case and showed very little and no abnormal wear...yeah.

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Puebloswatcop
after removing all of the bearing shells and wiping the bearing saddles, they look remakably good as well.

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Puebloswatcop
The inside of the case is actually amazingly clean, with the exception of the sludge that has accumulated it the sump portion of the case.

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Puebloswatcop
After looking at the engine cases side by side I have decided to use the '73 1.7 case for the build in this car. It will become a 2056...here starts the engine journey.
Puebloswatcop
I had to take a break from the 1st Twin so I could take my grand daughter back to Colorado and pick up the other twin. Somewhere under all that lovely Colorado dust is a 914....


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Puebloswatcop
My son and grandsons helped me load her onto the trailer. Stupid me forgot to bring the keys, so we had to manhandle the car into the right position on the trailer. But got her on and all tied down. One good rainstorm took care of the carwash. Of course on the way back to Texas all the washing was negated when Google maps failed to tell me it was sending me onto a road that turned into a dirt road for 10 miles.....But she is now in Texas, safe and sound.

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Puebloswatcop
Today I was working on the fresh air fan and took a bunch of pictures and in the process I looked at my phone and .....well crap.....Lukily I was able to download the pics I took, but the phone is toast.....

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Puebloswatcop
Now on to todays progress...I decided to clean and check the operation of the fresh air fan.....UGLY. no one would want to breath the not so "fresh" air coming through this...

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Puebloswatcop
I tested the motor by hooking it up to a battery and it was a "no go" dead as a door nail.

So to facilitate the removal of the motor and cleaning of the housing, I started
dis-assembly. The cross rod is easy, e clips on each end. Remove the clips and the rod comes right off.

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Puebloswatcop
The two halves of the unit are held together by a series of ring spring clips. I was a bit hesitant to start prying on them at first, afterall the plastic is 50 years old. But I finally pried one off using a jewelers screwdriver to get it started. Surprisingly the plastic is still pretty sturdy. Then just work each clip off. and the unit opens up, allowing access to the motor and the other workings. The flappers fall right out of their prosective spots. The rubber seals in these were in pretty bad shape.

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Puebloswatcop
After getting the fan assembly apart, and having limited time, ( had to go pick up an engine in Dallas), I turned my attention to the fresh air box. Whoever the PO had paint the car went crazy and never masked anything so as you can see there was plenty of Ravenna green in the box. headbang.gif

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Puebloswatcop
I tried scrubbing with a green pad, soap and water and it didn't touch the paint. So after a bit of research on how to remove the paint, without damaging the plastic, I found a recommendation of using finger nail polish remover that contains acetone. I asked the wife if I could borrow some and she kindly handed it over.....So I used 0000 steel wool soaked with nail polish remover and lightly scrubbed the painted areas....

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Puebloswatcop
After about 20 minutes of gentle rubbing the paint was successfully removed. After the paint was removed I put a coat of plastic treatment on it to "re-hydrate" the plastic...

Tomorrow I will dive into the motor issue and work on cleaning and repairing that and the fan.

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bkrantz
Wow, either your shop is way fancier than mine, or you are going to get in trouble for washing car parts in the master bath.
Puebloswatcop
To tell the truth Bob, my wife is pretty understanding, but I certainly have gotten on her bad side when she catches me washing parts in the house..... chair.gif
Puebloswatcop
So now back to the DEAD motor in the fresh air fan box. It was filthy as was the rest of the system, So first thing was to remove the fan from the cage bracket it is in. There are 4 spring clips that hold it in place. I carefully popped these off, using care not to pry on the cage or motor.

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Puebloswatcop
In these fans one of the likely culprits in their failure is one of the four resistance coils. There are two on the motor and two on the plug end in the housing...In this case they all looked good and solid.

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Puebloswatcop
After checking the resistance coils, I moved onto the carbon brushes for the motor. There are two and each is covered under a small retaining clip (yello arrow). These just pop off, but be careful not to launch the spring that is under the clip into unknown parts of the room you are workin in. Then you can see and access the carbon brushes.

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Puebloswatcop
After removing the spring, if it didn't go flying on its own, remove the spring and gently pull up on the electric lead to the carbon brush. It should move freely in its bore. When they attached them at the factory however, the tail was not long enough to pull it out of the bore. Check to see that it is not too worn. They are about a holf inch long when new. I used calipers to measure the total depth of the bore (outide of the bore) and then the back of the brush to the top of the bore and subtracted that from the first measurement. The wear in this case was negligible. However, one of the brushes was stuck in its bore. So when I tried to pull it back the wire came disconnected from the brush.

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Puebloswatcop
So it was a matter of removing the damaged brush from the bore. On one side of the bore there is an opening that you can look at to see the brush. Using a fine pick and a jewelers screwdriver I was able to carefully pick out the remnants of the brush. Then using a fine pointed jewelers file i cleaned up the bore to make sure nothing remained. Then I took the motor to my local hardware store and found the appropriate sized carbon brush. Fit is very important, too loose and the brush wears quickly, to snug in the bore and it doesnt make contact with the stator in the motor and the motor doesn't work.
Since the lead will be soldered to the attachment point and this brush comes with a disc and spring (wich is not the right size) I just snipped off the disc and discarded the spring.

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Puebloswatcop
I then seated the brush into the bore and soldered the new lead in place...note that the old lead is still there. I wasn't sure if the new lead was long enough at first so I kept the old lead in place in case I needed to solder them together.....After confirming there was plenty of lead wire, I just cut the old one off.

Sorryfor the quality of the pictures, not able to use my phone so am trying to use a spare to take the pics.

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Puebloswatcop
After repairing the damaged brush I put the original springs and retainers back on. Then hooked it up to my car battery and piratenanner.gif SUCCESS.....
So I cleaned up the rest of the motor casing and reinstalled it into the cage.

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Puebloswatcop
Then turned to the fan itself... during my examination of the fan I found several areas where the ring had fractured away from the fins...out of 17 fins, 7 were cracked at the ring joint. I marked each one of them with a black dot and the one by one repaired them with JB plastic weld. Worked fantastic. I noticed that there were several metal clips attached at random to the fins. I am guessing these were used to balance the fan, so left them in place.

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Puebloswatcop
Then I re-mounted the fan to the motor. Looks like it might actually blow fresh air now. Have to wait on complete re-assembly until the seals I ordered from 914 Rubber arrive.

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Puebloswatcop
The seals cor the fresh air intake box came in today, minus the two flapper seals. One quick call to 914 Rubber and the shortage was solved and the seals sent. In the mean time I installed the fan seal and the box seal. The fit on both was spot on.....

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Puebloswatcop
Then I went ahead with cleaning the flapper assemblies. They were much worse than I thought.

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Puebloswatcop
On the up side, when you take them apart, the inside surfaces are pretty clean....however These will make the next trip to the plater......

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Puebloswatcop
So I blasted them and they are ready to go.

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Puebloswatcop
But to make the package to the plater worth while I decided I had better blast a bunch more to go with the flappers.

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