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Puebloswatcop
One side completed, wash, rinse and repeat for the other side.

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Puebloswatcop
I installed the ball joint, but will have to do the final torque once the arms are installed.

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9146C
The powder coating looks great Kevin.

Nice job on the relay board as well.

Looking forward to seeing the progress on the bodywork as well.

Keep up the great work!
Puebloswatcop
QUOTE(9146C @ Feb 25 2022, 09:39 AM) *

The powder coating looks great Kevin.

Nice job on the relay board as well.

Looking forward to seeing the progress on the bodywork as well.

Keep up the great work!



Thanks, These cold days do pay off for getting the component jobs done. But I cant wait for warmer weather so I can roll the body out and start the blasting process.....
Puebloswatcop
Also decided to kill the rest of a cold day assembling the rear axle shafts. Getting the new boots on was more difficult than I anticipated. I have only removed old nasty ones which are easy.

So I broke out a little dish soap to help things along. Then laid out the parts for re-assembly...

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Puebloswatcop
I put anti-sieze lubricant in the splines of each of the joints. Just a thin layer because it does squeze out on the other side and you dont want that mixed in with the grease.

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Puebloswatcop
Then tap the joint onto the shaft until it is fully seated.

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Puebloswatcop
Then comes installing the retaining clip. I have a special pair of ring spreaders for this type of clip. They basically spread the circle as you squeeze them and that way I dont over stretch or otherwise damage the rings

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Puebloswatcop
Then install th clips, sorry the pic is a bit blurry. The key is to be sure that the clip is fully seated all the way around in the groove in the shaft.

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Puebloswatcop
Axle shaft #1 all assembled

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Puebloswatcop
Again...wash, rinse and repeat and now I have two complete axle shafts....Will grease them tomorrow....

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Puebloswatcop
What an awesome day!!!! While assembling the axle shafts, UPS dropped off another package. All my parts came back from Finishing and Plating Services of Kinosha WI.
I must say I am impressed with the work they do, their turn around time and to not lose even 1 small part. And the price is phenominally low. So I highly recommend that if you need parts plated, look them up.

Here are some before and after pics. I did blast all of my parts before sending them, so it helped in the final product.

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Puebloswatcop
Here are a few more parts pics. There are many more, but I think you can see the quality of the product they put out, and I don't want to bore anyone.

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bkrantz
Bling!
76-914
Eye Candy for sure.
Puebloswatcop
Spent the last couple of days cleaning and blasting parts. The seat base rails are getting complete rebuilds, so had to tear them apart.

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Puebloswatcop
You can see that time has not been kind to the finish on the unpainted parts, there is pitting and the surface coating has taken a hit....

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Puebloswatcop
However the Plastic bushings are actually in pretty good shape and are tight, however I already ordered all new ones, so they will be replaced as well....

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Puebloswatcop
Then I took the drivers side base and blasted and painted it. I used self etching primer and then hit it with 3 coats of semi gloss black...hopfully that will keep it well protected...
Here is a before and an after pic....


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Puebloswatcop
My new throttle lever for the pedal cluster arrived as well. I ordered it directly from Porsche, a bit more pricey, but figured there should be no fitment issues....

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Puebloswatcop
After going to the polls and casting my vote, decided to kill the rest of my day sorting, bagging and cataloging the parts that came back from the plater....such fun since my memory isn't as good as it used to be, and they don't re-bag them the way I had them sorted when I sent them....lol. Guess I will have to come up with a better system to make it easier in the future...Maybe photo all of them with their tags before sending.

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Puebloswatcop
Today was such a nice day I took the hotrod out for a quick spin before doing a bit of welding on the 914. Worked on finishing the bottom edge of the fender flare. First marked of the front lip for cutting. I left the original lip from the narrow fender, so I could tie in the alignment of the flare and the holes for mounting the rocker.

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Puebloswatcop
When I finished cutting I realized I had cut on the wrong side of the mark, so welding the two pieces together over a wide gap was a bit tricky, but got it done and am happy with the result...

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Puebloswatcop
Then I moved to the trailing edge of the flare. This time I marked it with tape so I would know exactly where to cut the flange so that the edges butted together withou the oversized gap.

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Puebloswatcop
Tack welded as it went, and kept the seem very tight.

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Puebloswatcop
Then finished welding the seam, nice when you get the gap closed up and can get good welds the first time around and not have to fill burn outs...

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Puebloswatcop
So now, one fender is done, 3 more to tie in...

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Puebloswatcop
Today I focused on finishing up the fender flares. Including cutting the fender lips so they are consistent widths on all 4. You can see in this picture how uneven the edges are after stamping.

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Puebloswatcop
First I used a scribe to mark each lip, using the outer edge of the fender as the guide. Then taped them along the scribe line so it was easier to see where the cut line would be.

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Puebloswatcop
Then cut each flare using a cutoff wheel. In some places the cut offs were as much as 1/4 inch wide.

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Puebloswatcop
Then went back and cleaned up each cut with a sanding disk.

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Puebloswatcop
Also went back through each weld seam checking for any pin holes, welded them up and ground the weld lines down. My welding skills certainly lacked when I started putting the flares on, but improved as I went. But will have to clean up the weld lines during further body work. Overall I am pleased with the outcome. There is allot to be said for measure twice (or 50 time) cut once.

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Puebloswatcop
The door stay rebuild kit came from 914 Rubber today. Very nice kit, comes with new stay straps, new springs and both rollers.

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Puebloswatcop
Re-assembly of the door stays is really straight forward. Took a whopping 5 minutes, wore me out for the day...lol.

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9146C
The flares look really nice!

I really like how the axle shafts turned out...and of course, all the new shiny bits!

Keep up the good work!
Puebloswatcop
Started my day by writing a new goal list on the white board for this next week, not sure why but I always list the hardest things first and the quick and easy last....lol

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Puebloswatcop
Then I seem to do the easy things first and the harder (more time consuming) things last. I got the tag removed from the front headlight bucket and cleaned all of the green overspray paint off of it.

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Puebloswatcop
While I was removing the id plate, I found I had not removed the adjusting stop screws for the headlights, These need to go for re-plating in the next batch.

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Puebloswatcop
Then moved on to welding the inside mounting plates for the front stabalizer bar. I had already measured and drilled the holes for the bar and the mounts, while I was in Colorado. Sanded all of the paint off of the inside and outside mounting areas...

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Puebloswatcop
Then I bolted the mounts back in and replaced the bar. Measured the positioning of the mounts, by measuring from the bottom pan and the trunk wall. I was able to get the bar within .022 inches from side to side. Then tack welded the mounts in place.

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Puebloswatcop
Then trying to figure out how to be a contortionist, I was able to weld the mounts in place. Doing the to edge isn't bad, but the two lower edges are hard to see when the nozzle is at the right angle to weld them. and there is no way to weld in the bottom corner from the inside. So for the bottom corner, I drilled through the wheel well and plug welded the bottom corner in 5 places.

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Puebloswatcop
After welding I re-inserted the bar and double checked the placement. All is good, so tomorrow I will remove the bar again and clean up the welds before priming.

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Puebloswatcop
An outside shot with the bar installed....

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Literati914
Good work as alway Kevin!
Did you send (ship) the actual bar off for plating with the all the small stuff? I mean duh, you must of… that is ideal, but must have run the shipping up a bit (I’m an observant CSOB, aren’t I)



.
Puebloswatcop
Actually, The bar and all of its components are an old Weltmeister bar. I've had it for years, still in the box. So thank goodness I didn't have to ship it for plating. With the cost of shipping these days, I probably would have saved by buying a new bar.....LOL

QUOTE(Literati914 @ Mar 5 2022, 09:06 PM) *

Good work as alway Kevin!
Did you send (ship) the actual bar off for plating with the all the small stuff? I mean duh, you must of… that is ideal, but must have run the shipping up a bit (I’m an observant CSOB, aren’t I)



.

Shivers
Really coming along. Nice work
Puebloswatcop
Have you ever had something rattling around in your car? You cant find it and it drives you crazy....Well thats what was going on with the twin. Every time I would rotate it on the rotisserie I kept hearing things bouncing around. I narrowed it down to the driver's side Long. The longs were solid, so I never cut them open. So I went on a mission. Spent about an hour blowing compressed air from the rear of the long, and this is what came out.... WTF.gif

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Puebloswatcop
But the paper just kept on coming. The mice really had a field day in the drivers long...

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Puebloswatcop
Even after removing all of the mouse house, I still had that annoying rattle, something was bouncing around in there and I wasnt about to give up till I got it out. After about another hour I was able to see what was in there. Just had to fasion a magnet to get down inside the long between the steel and the heat tube....and finally had success... no more rattle

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Puebloswatcop
Started removing all of the little things on the car like the trim clips and the VIN plate.

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