After installing and torquing down the heads and setting the valve clearances, I rotated the enginne several times, then removed the heads to check the clay impressions...

In Cylinder #1 you can see the clay was well into the chamber and got just a small nick in it from the intake valve with no impression from the exhaust valve.

In the #2 Cylinder there was a more pronounced impression from the intake valve, but still none from the exhaust valve.

Since my clay was approximately 2.5 mm thick There should be more than adequate clearances for the valves.

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Looks good.

Then I figured it might be time to seal up some of the gaping holes in the engine that would allow unwanted dirt and dust inside. I started with the oil pick up. I did buy the Tuna Can setup from 914 Werke. The product seems very well made. First step was to install the extension onto the pick up tube. Since it needs to be pressed on about 1/2 inch, I coated about 1/4 inch of the pickup with Aviation gasket sealer and then pressed it into place.

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I decided to keep the particle screen in the engine so had to drill out the center hole to fit the new bolt with the kit, then installed the 2 gaskets (one above and one below the screen) coating everything with sealer.

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Then more sealant and add the tuna can and cover......

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Then time to plug up the second larges hole, the taco plate and the oild temp sending unit...

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Then it was on to the oil galley plugs....

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And the oil flow control valves...I made sure to match the valves that came from this engine for re-installation, since I have several engines torn down.

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Last but not least was the oil drain plug. When I pulled it out of the bag, Something didn't quite look right. I realized that there was part of the old sealing ring embeded on the plug threads, bet the PO was always wondering why there was a leak there......

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Then it was time to install the very first piece of the newly powder coated engine tin under the cylinders and the push rod tubes...

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So half of the engine has been completed, the front is sealed up as well as #1 & #2 cylinders and the bottom of the engine....One side to go....

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Again, this is my first air cooled engine build, so...PLEASE...if anyone sees anything I am missing, could do better or differently, feel free to chime in and share your experience with me, so I can get it right.....Thanks all.

Thanks for documenting the tuna can install. I have one ready to go on the next oil change and this is another write-up that's helpful. I went to do it last time but couldn't get the OEM sump cover off - it has since been suggested that a couple of light shots with a rubber mallet will break it free. I'm guessing it has sealant on it and is just really sealed. Sort of a bummer that I"m going to remove it as it's bone dry but I've had the car 3 years and never had that plate off to clean the screen and have a look. Thanks again - great thread.

Belmetric comes through again.... I decided to go with all stainless, shallow head, allen screws for my engine tin. I just think they are easier to deal with and wont strip out as easily during installation and removal....And they have a nice clean look to them as well.

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Didn't have allot of time this weekend to work on my pride and joy, but did get the other head put on. Started by installing all of the studs using Loctite 271 (red). After installing the last 2 pistons I also installed the engine tin that fits under the cylinders.

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Then installed the pushrod tubes. It is actually starting to look like a real engine. Now I need to go through all those boxes in the background and find the other valve train componenets....

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With the holidays, and all the visitors, its been difficult to get much done on the car. But I did get some of the tedious parts cleaned and then installed. Starting with the oil cooler mounting studs. They had the nuts stuck on them and when I originally removed the oil cooler long ago, the studs came out of the engine case. So I soaked them in PB Blaster. I found the nuts still didn't want to come off, but they would screw on further down the stud.....

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After screwing them all the way down the threaded portion, I chased the threads with a tap and the nuts came right off. Then I cleaned up the studs and decided not to re-use the nuts, so used new nuts and washers....

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After getting all three studs cleaned and the threads chased, I used blue threadlock and replaced them into the engine case. Then I used aircraft sealant on the gasket surfaces and installed the oil cooler.

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I also started re-installing more engine tin. I also installed the new engine mounts. I really like the Gun Metal color I decided to finish the engine tin and some of the other parts. I know its not the usual black, but I just wanted to be a bit different and unique.

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Coming together nicely; I like the gun metal too.

Thanks Cairo. I just wanted to be a bit different. And the gun metal kind of grabbed my attention.

Looks great. Does the engine still spin easy?

Yes, so far, so good. I am waiting on a new flywheel so I can set the endplay, but still turning easy with no interference or binding.

Friday I picked up the last of the powder coated items for the engine. So thought I would start assembling the smaller pieces. Starting with the thermostat assembly. While it will not be very visible, I wanted it to match all of the engine tin.

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And here it is installed in its ever forgotten space on the engine...

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Then I moved on to the oil filler/breather assembly. The powder coater even got the inside coated as best he could. And I still had the original PCV Valve.

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I re-installed the filler neck and the bottom plug, but was a bit disapointed in the way the filler cap looked. I guess I will have to work on it and see if I can get the gray appearance to go back to black or try to find a better cap.

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And here it is in its very prominant place on top of the engine...

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Today was spent blasting and painting some of the many exhaust/heating pieces. The small pieces were pretty easy and quick..

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Blasting the insides clean was a long and tedious process, but I wanted to get inside and out with the VHT paint in order to try to preserve the metal as long as possible, who knows, maybe another 50 years?

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After 3 coats of VHT, inside and out I am pretty pleased. I did end up with a couple of runs while trying to get an inside coat, but not totally disappointed.

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Got the re-built alernator all dressed out with the newly powder coated parts as well. Going to have to wait until my alternator wire harness is delivered to finish it out.

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Gotta love making parts pretty that nobody will ever see. But that's part of the illness.

I absolutely agree Bob, and I think I have found the disease that will ultimately be my demise....lol.

So, tonight I went to put my valve covers on the engine and looked high and low for the newly plated bales that hold them in place. When I couldnt find them, I went back through my photos and to my dismay they weren't in the photo's. This can only mean that I failed to send any of them to be plated.... another delay.

Look what arrived in the mail today from 914 Rubber.....

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After a trial fit I discovered that this lug where the red wire has to go is to long to allow the cover to sit flat with the rubber cover for the wire in place...

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So in order to cut it off and not have any issues with the threads, I threaded the die on first, then a washer to protect the die. Then cut the stud to a shorter length. Then I backed the die off so I had a nice clean thread.

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After trimming the stud, the cover fit nicely. So I installed the wires, the cover and bolted it closed. I am pleased with the way it looks with the gun metal gray cover and pully....

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It is so great. The paint, the cleanness, the powder coating. I suggest that you mostly drive indoors. Or maybe have a high speed street sweeper run ahead for every itinerary. You must be proud!

The plan for now is to drive it only on sunny days. Our little town certainly doesn't have a high speed street sweeper, in fact, I don't think they have a street sweeper at all....so I guess I will stick to our country roads....lol

And in trying to get my garage space more organized (especially with the limited space) I built a new paint rack. Hopefully tomorrow it will be on the wall.

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Ha! I bet you will need about 10 of those racks before long.

Lol, I think you're right Bob. I am pretty much out of room.

I suggest you check the continuity between the red wire for the alternator and the body of the alternator. 914 alternators are notorious for shorting out the stud on the alternator rear cover. The factory used a very short stud and a thin nut to prevent this.

Thanks for the tip Clay. I will do that. I also found that there is supposed to be a gasket between the cover and the alternator body, but of course itis no longer available, so I am going to get some gaske material and make my own, which will give a bit more space, although very minimal, I'm sure.

Thanks for the tip Clay. I will do that. I also found that there is supposed to be a gasket between the cover and the alternator body, but of course itis no longer available, so I am going to get some gaske material and make my own, which will give a bit more space, although very minimal, I'm sure.

There is also supposed to be a rubber boot over the stud. But most of them are long gone. And if the stud it too long it will tear the boot and still short out against the cover.