Since I am going to have to media blast the car myself, I decided to get some of the thick layers of paint and such off the underside of the car. I am hoping that will minimize the time and mess from blasting.....

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I used a disk sander for the low spots and a DL for the high and flat surfaces. It is amazing how thick they layed on the paint, especially in the wheel wells. Once I get the majority of the paint off of the underside of the car, I will build a plastic tent over it so I can blast it.

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So I spun the car on the rotisserie and I could still here stuff ratling around inside the Longs. So back to the drawing board. I fashioned a small hose that I could snake all the way through the long. Just taped 1/4 inch plastic hose to my air nozzle. Starting at the front access hole in the long, I fished the hose through and could see debris start blowing out of the rear access.

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With the car upside down, I continued by pushing the hose through the rear access all the way to the back of the long. There is a hole in each long at the rear about the size of a quarter, that I could fish all of the garbage out of, the car being upside down let gravity assist with getting the debris to that hole.

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So after about another hour, and several times of repeating the process, I think I finally have evacuated all of the tenants bedding. I set my hand grinder next to the pile for reference as to how much these unwanted guests had put inside one long. I will say at least these mice know what Porsche class is all about, only high living for them.


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Spent the rest of today removing as much of the paint and old seam sealer from the underside of the car. About 60% of the underside is stripped now. Both front wheel wells and most of the floor.

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On the back half of the car I still need to finish the rear wheel wells....

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Got most of the firewall done today, but most of the engine compartment will have to be finished with the blaster.....Maybe next week. One little tip, remember to wear a respirator when stripping this crap...I forgot to put it on today and now my chest feels like its full of 10 pounds of dust and paint.....Yuk.

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Well more parts back from the Powder Coater... The brake cluster parts:

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and the trailing arms. The trailing arms are boxed and I had them done in the Metalic Gunmetal color as well....

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And since it was cold and rainy out I decided to go ahead with re-assembling the pedal cluster.

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I used a bar clamp to install the new bronze bushings

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All new parts and hardware make for a real nice pedal cluster...

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the guy with the 1.8 30 before yours now on the other side of the planet is enjoying watching this thread.
its going to be an amazing rig when you get done.
a long way from the little 1.8 it once was.

Hey Kevin, is that the same bar clamp you used for the A-arm assembly? If so, what size do I buy.. ? (to accomplish the same two jobs)

Also, was the interior (tube) of the pedal assembly protected from powder coating or not? Id think the bushing fit could be a problem if not, but it looks like the interior got pc too from the pics.


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Good Morning Doug

The clamp is actually a pipe bar clamp. I have a 48 inch bar, which is really overkill, but it's what I had. I would say a 24 inch will do both jobs and be a bit less clumsy to work with. Just make sure when you buy the clamp portin that it has the plastic covers that go over the steel so it is less likely to cause marring of the items you are clamping.

I did forget to tape off where I didn't want the PC to be on the inside, however the PC guy was smart enough not to actually spray the inside, so it was just light overspray. I was able to sand it out for the most part, so the bushings had a slight interference fit inside.

The bushings actually went in pretty easily I just didn't like the idea of putting them in without the proper size drift, so chose to press them in. In the one picture you can see the socket laying there, that is becase the flange on the clutch tube interfered with pushing the bushing in all the way, so I used it to get the clamp to a point where I could get the bushing in all the way.

Lost my "go to" guy for cars today. My father in law passed away today unexpectedly. He was my inspiration for my car build.....He was always there to encourage me when things didnt go right and would answer my stupidist questions with encouraging answers. I feel so empty.....please pray for our family.

Very sorry for your loss Kevin. My condolences to you and your family.

Kevin, I can relate ., same thing for us about a year ago. Condolences, prayers for you and yours..


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Decided that today I would work on the trailing arms. I know I will probably take a hit on this from some people, but I did go with the polybronze bushings from Elephant Racing. I want to see if there is any significant change in the ride. I figure if I don't care for them I can always change them out and go back to rubber bushings. That being said I measured the incide of the bushing where the grease groove is to find exactly how deep the crossover point in the grooves was and then transfered that measurement to the front side of the trailing arm tube.

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Then began drilling the hole in increments till it was the correct size of 7/32", and of course I screwed up, and scratched the tube. Not a real deep scratch but left me cursing myself

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Then it was time to insert the bushings. I marked each bushing where the grease grooves intersected in the bushing, so that I could line one of the two points up with the holes drilled in the trailing arm. Although the fit was tight in the arm, I added polyurethane glue to the inside of the trailing arm before inserting the bushings to ensure there wouldn't be any slippage. Then using my bar clamp, pulled the bushings into place.


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After the bushings set up, I drilled the hole through the bronze bushing, it lined up very well with the grease grooves inside the bushing. Then I tapped the hole for the grease fittings and took 600 grit sandpaper and made sure I got any burrs off of the inside of the bronze bushing.

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I inserted the grease fittings using some purple thread lock ( to be sure they don't vibrate loose) and lightly greased the bushings, then insterted the pivot shaft. Now I just have to wait for the rear bearings and five lug hubs to arrive and I can finsh these up.

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You may have a problem....

There is not a lot of room between the front of the arm and the chassis. Even if they go in, you are going to have a hard time getting a grease gun on the fittings.

You probably would have been better off putting the grease fittings in the bottom of the arms, instead of the front.

Just my $.02.

Clay

Thanks Clay. you know I didn't think about that. Now that I picture it in my mind you may be right. I will have to check the fit and then make changes accoringly. I put in 45 degree fittings, at a minimum may have to change them to 90s. Re locating them would be the other option....keeping my fingers crossed that I won't have to.

This morning I decided to start working on the dash frame while I am waiting on some epoxy paint for the body. It amazes me how nearly 50 years of grime can build up in every nook and cranny of these cars.

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Checking the hand scribbled body number on the underside of the dash it is the original dash. The number is a match to the chasis number of the car. Strange how they wrote the numeral 1. It looks like a 7 but the seven actually has a slash through it.

Started by carefully removing the metal overlay on the dash front, it is amazing to me that these are just stuck on with double sided tape and that it is still stuck after all these years. Then scraped the tape off of the dash.

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A quick wipe down to get some of the 48 years of dirt and grime off.....

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Then time to assess the damage the P.O. did to it by adding all the holes for the switches he added to the car.

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Not really sure why there are 4 screw holes around the radio mounting hole, but will have to weld these up as well.

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Really not hard to spot the P.O. manufactured holes from the back. The jagged edges kind of give them away. Not something you want to find with your fingers thats for sure.
Will have to weld all of the extra holes back up.

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On the dash overlay, I will fill in the holes that are in red. But, question...does anyone know what the square hole was for? it was definately a factory hole, but nothing that corresponds on the dash frame itself and in my research I cant see any use for it.

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Will have to weld these two holes shut as well. Am trying to decide if I am going to weld the seatbelt warning light hole closed since I am not going to re-install the seatbelt warning system....what do you guys think?

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Didn't accomplish much today , had to drive 30 miles to get a piece of 22 ga metal to fill the holes in the dash cover plate. But cut 6 pieces to fill the PO holes as well as the seatbelt warning light and the other mystery holes

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then welded them all closed and ground them flush. Man was I having a hard time trying not to burn big holes in the 22 ga sheet metal...

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Got the holes in the dash frame welded up...

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and sanded flat....Now its off to the powder coater for blasting and new color...

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My wife worked with numbers, she does the same thing when she writes a 7. That way it was not confused for a one (1). Nice work

The hole next to the heater controls is wallowed out. It should be the same size as all of the others, excluding the hole for the lighter.

Clay

now we know the cross ¥a 7 man didn't get sacked on friday and was there on monday handing out dashboards with the same crayon in his back pocket.

looks like he took the same shortcut to 6 numbers and left the 0 off yours too.

- he drank equally 7 days a week?
and was color blind.
you got a black dash for a green car?
i got a blue dash for a phoenix orange car with a personal note on it in case anyone got confused what car it was going in?
in the interests of clarity he wrote a bonus A on mine.
ya - its going to amerika dumkoff. i dunno.


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Thanks for pointing it out Clay. I am glad you did. Got that fixed before taking it over to powder coat.

So, been away for a few days, trying to work on finishing the master bath in our house. But I did go today and pick up the dash from the powder coater. It came out very nice.
Amazing the difference some welding and powder coating can make...

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Another day of no work on the car, but a day of prep for media blasting. Made an improvised blasting booth to hopefully contain the mess associated with that job.

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There is enough room to move the car from one side to the other so I have sufficient room to move while blasting...

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And enough room to still rotate the car on the rotisserie

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So now I will start blasting the under side and engine compartment of the car next week. Depending on how that goes, I will decide on how to proceed with the rest of the car.

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Looks doable, but not fun. Good luck!

Bob, you were right on the money, doable...but not fun. First I had to get a balance of air and feed and the correct tip on the blaster to get it to work. It works well but is a very messy job. I go through about 25-30 pounds of media per hour. The good thing is the tent worked well and all the dust and debris remained inside.

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