But after wiping them with several rags, most of the goo is gone so you can inspect the individual parts...

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Just a quick look at the outer race (housing) and you can see it showes very little wear.

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For the ease of cleaning and not losing parts I reassembled the CV joint and dropped it into a can of diesel for the night.

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As you can see, after cleaning just 1 CV joint, it creates allot of greasy rags and a couple of pairs of gloves....If you are inclined to do this nasty chore for yourself I will post the step by step outline tomorrow since it is going to be another rainy day in Texas....

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So I know I said I would post the step by step on how to rebuild your CV joints on your rear axles. However I don't believe in re-inventing the wheel, and I see that Ian Karr has already done a great video on the subject. I guarantee Ian is allot more fun to watch than people listening to me ramble. Here is the link:

https://youtu.be/F-5Xpug52Qw

The only thing I would recommend is when you remove the stub axle, is to partially thread the bolts back into the holes and use a soft hammer (I prefer a plastic end) to tap the stub axle loose rather than use a screwdriver. I can't tell you the number of joints that I have seen that are all gouged up because of screwdriver use.

The other thing is to pay close attention to getting the narrow part of the cage alligned with the wide part of the housing. Believe it or not it can be assembled with the narrow and wide parts alligned, but if you run it that way on your car it will destroy the the joint and probably allot of other things in the process.

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The best way to insure you have it correct is to see if you can deflect the cage in and out of the housing (both ways) without it falling out. If you can't deflect the cage, look closely and you probably have the wide portions alligned with the large and the small with the small.....

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Good tips, another job I'll be benefitting from you doing first !


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Well after a totally wasted day yesterday searching for a lost animal, I am back at it today. Spent the past few days cleaning parts and finshed blasting a bunch for powder coating.

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Hopefully the parts I am waiting on will be delivered today and I can get back to work....and if you were wondering the animal in question decided to return on his own when he got hungry...

While I was waiting I decided to tear down the last 2 axle sets that I have. These were from my 1973 fireball parts car. As you can see, there is some fire damage to the boots, but it doesnt appear to have caused extensive damage to the actual axle assemblies.


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After tearing down the first joint, the one with the most heat exposure, I was fairly pleased with what I saw. The cage and bearings were in pretty good shape. They dont appear to have any heat damage. Some of the ball bearings have some discoloration from being exposed to moisture, but I have several extras.

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The housing and inner race show no signs of heat damage and are in remarkably good shape, probably because the car had not been used all the years after the engine fire....But I don't know exactly when that happened. Change found in the car was from the early 80's, so I am guessing somewhere around that time.

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I also chased the mounting threads on all of the stub axles I have. A couple of them have some minor thread damage on the end threads of the stubs, so I will order a die and clean those up as well.

And with the preliminary inspection done, all these can go into the soaker for the day.

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Finally, all of the axle parts arrived from Autohaus Arizona, so I can start rebuilding the axles that will actually go back into this car. All new boots, gaskets, and the retaining clips. I always replace the clips with new ones, cheap insurance that the joints will stay on the axle shafts.

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And then a short time later my seat hinge brackets arrived from R.D. They are very nice reproductions of the originals..

I have already marked these where the hinge will be located.

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And of course I couldn't wait to weld the hinges on. I forgot that I had welded some thicker steel the other day, so I bet you can tell which one got welded before I re-adjusted the wire feed....not the most beautiful welds....but surely functional.

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Has been a bit of a crazy week. Son came down with COVID so kinda had to put things on the Porsche on hold. He got better and came up negative today...yeah. So I did get a small thing done today. Finished installing the driver's side seat brackets. I really do like this new welder. That and more practice are getting me back into the hang of things.
I spaced the welds 1 inch apart and skipped where the lower ribs in the floor were. It definitly is solid.


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The welds are so much smoother and cleaner.

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Smothed out the inner welds, but think I'll skip doing that to the outer weld since reaching them is harder and I don't want to chance grinding away too much material.

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I am hoping to start setting up for blasting the underside of the body next week. So trying to figure out how to tent the car so my garage isn't full of media after blasting it.

Any Ideas?

So I just returned from a short trip to Colorado, Sorry Texas, I seemed to have brought the cold weather and snow back with me....

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While in Colorado I decided to box up a small box of parts to send back to Texas, I specifically needed the passenger side seat slider so i could finsh installing the seat brackets. Figured I might as well send some other things along with it.

Won't do that again...$53 dollars to send them back. That would have gotten me a partial drive to load a whole truck of parts, but oh well.

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The cold weather makes it rather difficult to work, even though the garage is heated. Since the dogs can't go out, I had a rather large supervisor lurking everywhere I went.

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But I was able to get the passenger side seat brackets installed. So cross one more item off this list.

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So, since I am going on another trip in a few days, I didn't want to get into any body work. Instead I decided to work on my relay board. The potting tar on the back was typical, all cracked and falling out. So I spent several hours cleaning all of that garbage out and then tested every cirquit to be sure all the connections were good. I would like to solder all the connections, but am afraid that I might melt the plastic while attempting to do so. If anyone has any suggestions as to how I can do that, please let me know. In the mean time the board is all clean and the epoxy to re-pott it is on its way.

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The other thing I decided to work on was the pedal cluster, its of course covered in years of crud and some minor rust. I spent a couple of hours trying to remove the Clutch Pedal from the cluster and it is well rusted in place. I've tried penetrating oil, heat, and beating on the shaft with a hammer and punch. No luck , call it a night and go eat dinner, will try again tomorrow. Put more penetrating oil for an overnight soak.

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Today it was back to work on the pedal cluster, it took allot of elbow grease, penetrating oil and hammering to get the clutch pedal shaft out, but I did finally have success.

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There was a fair amount of heavy rust in all of the working parts

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I just sprayed mine with a can of rubberized underseal. Worked great and didn’t bleed through.

The base had the typical rust and paint peeling (from brake fluid leakage I believe) but the rust was not too deep in the metal.

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The reverse lever is trash. Not sure if it even worked for the P/O since it was bent so badly. Both the shaft and the assembly are bent beyond repair.

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All the parts have been cleaned and while I am awaiting a new reverse lever as well as a couple other parts, I will send the usable parts for powder coating and plating. I also have all new hardware for the entire cluster.

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Had I not already ordered the epoxy sealer I would have considered doing that too. But by the time I had seen a post (I believe it was yours) about the underseal, the epoxy had already shipped.

That happens when someone gets a little too "enthusiastic" when pushing on the accelerator pedal. Proper adjustment of the throttle stop behind the pedal will prevent it from happening again. Once everything is hooked back up, hold the pedal down to wide open throttle and adjust the stop up to meet the back of the pedal. Then you can get "enthusiastic" as you want and you won't bend it again.

Thanks Clay. It also looks like someone tried to use a framing hammer to straighten it...lol. I couldn't believe how bad it was...not even going to try to straighten it.

Hope you are doing well.

Well, got back from my trip to California and Colorado and found that the epoxy I ordered for the Relay board arrived while I was gone...Yeah.

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I checked the board by holding a light to the top side of the board and looking for any light that came through to the bottom. Then filled those holes with paste wax to seal them up. Since I wanted to fill it a bit thicker than was originally there, I taped off the end and the square hole where the voltage regulator mounts. Hopefully the tape will keep the epoxy from running out.

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Then it was time to mix the epoxy. Pretty straight forward, It take a 1:1 mix ratio, so added 60 ml of each part to a red solo cup (wont be drinking any beer from that cup) and mixed it for about a minute, then let the brew set for about 10-15 minutes to allow as much air as I could to escape, without the brew hardening.

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After checking to be sure the board was level on the bench, I poured the epoxy in. My guestimate was spot on and I used the entire 120 ml to get the depth I wanted. You can see the amount of air that gets into it just from pouring.

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So, using a toothpick, I went in and popped all of the bubbles. I checked every 5 minutes and found that several bubbles were continuing to rise, so continued to pop them. After about 30 minutes no more bubbles would rise to the surface.

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After about an hour still no bubbles and the surface had skinned over pretty well. So now It will sit for about 48 hours to completely set up.

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The relay board is all set up. No leaks of potting material and it came out nice and level and smooth. The only thing I would do differently is where I used the aluminum tape to build up the hole where the voltage regulator goes. That aluminum tape was a PIA to remove, it sticks quite well.

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And here is the top of the board, all complete. Just need to find what box the rest of my relays are in and insert the cover stem when it returns from being re-plated.

Got the first set of metal back from the powder coater. I decided to go with something beside the standard black for these parts. So it is a custom gunmetal color.

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More Parts

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Then, after pressing the axle shaft out of the trailing arm, these wet to the powder coater,

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Pedal Cluster parts also went to the powder coater. They will be done in the standard black.

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I decided to assemble the fron A Arms as well:

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Here are the parts incuding the Ball Joints, ball joint nut and the star washers.

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I originally bought aftermarket ball joint nuts, but they didn't want to thread onto the ball joints, so I re-ordered them directly from Porsche. You can definately see the difference in quality. Lesson learned: some parts just cant be replaced by Aftermarket.

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I purchased the rubber bushing kit with the installation tools from Elephat Racing...

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After preparing the bushings with liquid soap and setting the mounts to the proper andgle, I pressed each bushing and mount onto the control arm using a pipe clamp.

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