Funny you say that Bob. I always send off the box just to discover I missed 1 or 2 pieces. So I just save them up for the next batch....which of course costs me more $$$$

There will be no excuse when people say they didn't see ya' coming!

So although I didn't have allot of time today I decided to at least put the E-brake handle back together. All new or replated parts. The part at the yellow pointer was listed as NLA, but a lot of checking around and I was able to find it...although I am sure I could have come up with an alternative fix.

The black arrow shows the orientation of the rod that goes inside the handle it is the only way to get the rod in. this rod is what activates the pawl that locks the brake handle in the locked position.

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The spring that goes over the rod and inside the handle consists of 4 parts, the first is a flat washer, then the spring, then a collar of the same ID and OD as the washer, but about 4 times thicker, and last the button screws on to hold it all in place.

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Next you move down to where the pawl has to be installed. You have to push the button to alighn the rod with where the pawl installs. then slide in the pawl with the teeth facing the base of the housing and line up the hole to install the retaining pin.

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Then you slide the ratchet portion into the base of the housing, push the button to pull the pawl away from the ratchet and push the ratchet up inside.

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Last thing for the e-brake handle assembly is sliding the actual handle in place. I have heard that on some you have to heat them up to get them on. Mine is an actual Porsche part and it slides right on, in fact I will have to glue it in place.

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I also installed the cable that runs to the e-bake handle as well as the bushing that goes inside the e-brake handle and the mount post in the car. The bushig fits very tightly inside the handle base, so I very gently hammered into the base with a plastic mallet.

And with that the assembly is complete.

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This weekend is going to be spent on body work. So today I started on the passenger side flares. First was to fill over the top of the joint line.

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First coat of filler on the rear fender

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After sanding out the first coat, I found I still had some pretty deep low spots in the seam, so I put on a second coat. I am using Evercoat Rage Optex filler.. It nice because it starts out pink and then as it hardens turns a green color. Not that I am in a hurry to start sanding, but it lets me know when its ready....

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After about 10 minutes...

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First coat of filler on the front fender....starting to take shape.

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After the initial sanding of the second coat on the rear fender, I am much happier with the contour....

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Looks really good Kevin! I remember this part caused me a lot of frustration to try to get it right. I recall it wasn't until after the 3rd coat of primer that I was happy with it. Not trying to discourage you...it's all about patience.

One thing that worked well for me...on the contour areas, I hand-sanded using sandpaper wrapped around a foot long section of 2" PVC. While sanding, I just rotated the PVC "block" to the contour.

The other key for me...maybe I'm just getting old and my eyes aren't what they used to be...rolling my car into natural light (outdoors) helped to easily see imperfections after I thought I was "done" (with single color primer applied for visual contrast).

When you pay a bodyshop to do this, remember the difference between a quality job and a "Maaco job" is the time spent in prep.

Keep up the good work...it's coming together nicely!

Thanks Rob, Not discouraging at all. In fact encouraging. I never liked doing bodywork before but I am actually enjoying it at this point. I knew this part was going to be the most challenging, blending in the flares, but I feel I am up to the challenge and am learning allot along the way. I'm certainly going for the quality and have plenty of time. When I get frustrated I just stop, have a beer and then move along....I love retirement....lol

Today I decided to concentrate on the right rear fender...I started off by identifying the more obvious low spots and sanding off any old existing paint. Some of the paint was original but some was very chalky looking and I think it had been painted later in its life with very cheap paint, so all traces of green had to go.

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That included all traces of green from the door handle area, what a PIA. All had to be done by hand because of the tight confines, so about an hour of sanding....

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The entire rear panel was stripped down to bare metal or good solid primer...

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I addressed the obvious low spots and did a thin fill coat of body filler to those areas as well as building the contour of the flares.

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Then sanded this until the dings, dents and contours were to my liking....
Tomorrow it will be on to a complete skim coat of the fender.....

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Looking good

Work looks good but I recommend you drape a couple of painter drop cloths over the boxes stored against the wall. Will save you a lot of dust clean up later.

Today the goal was to get the rear fender skimmed out and sanded. An early start made it fairly comfortable, before the heat hit.

I got the skim coat on and then started sanding....

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Still some sanding left to do, but the wife reminded me it was laundry day and our dryer vents into the garage...crap. Oh well, I am happy with the progress and just decided to go inside and do a few other things that need doing.

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So since I can't work in the garage I moved to the kitchen table....I am lucky that my wife lets me work there as long as I cover the table and I am working on new / clean parts. So rear brakes were on the agenda.

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I started by laing out all of the hard parts, and then layed out the parts from the rebuild kit from PMB Brakes....

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Once I confirmed I had all of my parts it was time for the build process. Now, this isn't my first brake re-build, but it has been awhile. So I reviewed the most awesome rear brake rebuild video on You Tube, again posted by Eric Shea at PMB Brakes, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dm_DnizKOZM , If you have never done a brake build but want to give it a shot, or just need to refresh your skills I highly recommend this video.

One thing to note is all of the internal parts do need to be lubricated, so I use Permatex ceramic extreme brake parts lube for all the internals.

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Since the e-brake arms and caliper bodies had all been re-plated I checked to insure the fit was good with no binding...It was perfect, so I lubed up the e-brake arm and installed it.

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Then I had to install the retaining ring for the e-brake arm. I tried pushing it in but it kept giving me problems. Then I remembered I had a special pair of ring pliers that are actually for installing the ring on the snout of the crank....but hey... a ring is a ring...just much smaller. They worked like a charm.

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With the ring seated in place and everything all lubed up...

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Its time to install the Welch plug. Since I don't have my press here I had to resort to the old C clamp and socket method. It really doesn't take allot of power to set the plug, so it wasn't hard, except to hold everything in allignment and tighten the clamp....3 hands would be nice in allot of these proceedures...

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Then it was time to install thin inner adjuster, spring, hat and retainer. Again the old socket and clamp method was used. Getting this ring in is a PITA only because the room to work is very restricted.

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Damn it...So somehow I lost all of the pictures detailing the piston insertion and all the other steps, so again I urge you to watch the video I attached, it is very detailed and will answer just about any question you might have....Sorry.

But one thing I do recommend is using anti sieze lube on the internal adjuster cover plug and the bleeder valves...It might save you allot of heartache in the future....

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At any rate, here is a pic of the completed rear calipers.....

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Since I was on a roll I figured one more thing to kill off my day was to rebuild one of my seat bases.....

All of the hard parts were sent for re-plating and then I used a rebuild kit from 914 Rubber for the bushings and such....a nice kit I might add.

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Since the adjuster handle actually passes through 2 holes in the seat rail, but was originally installed with only one black bushing (on the inside rail) I believe this might have led to the failure of that bushing. So I had a spare original bushing and inserted it into the outer hole in the seat rail (red arrow). Then of course there is the large white bushing where the seat catch is inserted.

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Probably one of the most important things when assembling the mechanism is to get the spring and the adjuster alligned correctly...this picture shows the correct orientation of the catch mechanism.

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Getting the spring inserted and then loaded onto the pin is a pain. First insert the strait end into the hole in the seat rail, then using pliers attach the loop to the roll pin.

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And there is one newly conditioned seat base...

Awesome thread! Looked through every page today. Just bought my first 914, a '76. It's a running and driving car I just have to fine tune some stuff. Fun seeing your build come along with the attention to detail you seem to have. Ready to see this one painted and on the road!

Today it was back to body work. It was spent on the right frond fender flare...first order of business was to get rid of all of the green paint that I didn't blast off.

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Most of the green was gone, but still plety to hand sand... In the second pic, you can see the two laers of paint, the original and the crappy re-paint....

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Plenty of creases and crevises to get green out of......all by hand...yuk.

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And now with all of the green gone, its time to start the messy stuff...

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Unfortunately I had to go to town and do some shopping which set me back about 4 hours....So when I got back the temp in the garage was 87 degrees.....but I decided to go ahead.....After a good cleaning with body panel prep (man that stuff stinks)... It was time to put the final shaping filler in the seam of the fender flare.

Since I knew my working time would be reduced because of the temperature I mixed and applied in two small batches.

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After shaping the curves on the fender flare, I skim coated the whole fender and sanded it out to fill all the low spots in the fender. It was a real PIA because the temp was so high in the garage, that even though I mixed in very small batches, I couldn't get it all on before it started to set. Still needs blocking but so far pretty good...And now its time for a

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Looking good!

Any plans to install AC in the garage? It made my life in Houston much more pleasant.

Not in the garage, but when I build the shop....absolutely. I think the shop is going to have to be done soon....the wife is complaining about the smell from the body work.

So I took a few days off to go pick up my grand daughter for her summer visit. My daughter met me in Amarillo and bless her heart brought me a bunch of Porsche parts from my stash in Colorado.....or at least she though they were all Porsche parts

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