Saw your car when I dropped in Wednesday to check on my 911. It looks like it won't be long know and you'll be driving...the car looks great!

Thanks Bill I appreciate that. Yeah Scotty tells me it will be back in my garage by August 1st 2015. Yeah that is only about 3 1/2 months away.......

Looks like we need to schedule a Bay Area breakfast in August? We all want to see your gold 914...

Me too! I am excited to start to see it all come together. I have been sending Scotty parts all along to make sure he will have what he needs to get it assembled. Still need some stuff, but the big ticket items are all with Scotty now.

I know I need:

send bumpers out for chroming
new electric radio antenna
dash plate for the Blaupunkt Frankfurt radio
full carpet kit
early metal fog light grills I can chrome
fog lights ( I want to see if anyone makes an LED light that fits the stock grills)
space saver tire that will mount on my 15x7 Fuchs spare rim to mount vertically against bulkhead like Eric's
new windshield
new rubber trim
new Karman body tag to rivet onto the door post
a pair of nice loud horns

Off the top of my head, that is what I still need.

A few more engine pics:

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Starting to look like an engine....

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Hurry up! WCR is two weeks away...

I love pictures of disassembled engines!!!!

Me too! Especially when it is my engine

This is a major milestone for my car. Once the engine makes it back to Scotty he will be free to assemble the engine and transaxle. I think he has all of the engine tin being powder coated and he has already (I think) painted the engine shroud. A pretty significant chunk of cash for that to be fresh and ready to install.

youre gonna need the extra pulley removed ..

That is right. I will let them know.

you may want to get some coated head studs or heat paint those for corrosion protection

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperC..._pg6.htm#item18

my 2 Cents

Engine is essentially assembled. Of course Scotty needs to blast the valve covers back to original appearance and add all of the rest of the bits and pieces to make it go Vroommmm.

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My engine is back in Scotty's capable hands

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Wow! Fast!!!

I think the usual holdup is all of the machine shop work. In this case the builder knew the engine was coming and he had already put it in line at the machine shop so it all worked out perfectly. Now Scotty will get all of the rest of the parts squared away. I need to send the injectors out to get rebuilt, who should send those to?

I was very happy with mr injector. Great customer service. Injectors came out looking like new. Includes a before and after flow sheet. All new seals and screen and priced less than $20/injector. I think the total turn around time was about 1 week.

Thanks Mark I will get the completed form to Scotty so he can get them sent out.

I got the injectors back- 2 were stuck when they arrived. They are all now perfect and ready to install. Great customer service.

I found a picture of a 3.2 in stock form and like the way it looks. I asked Scotty to use this picture as the model for my engine finishes. Although mine will have the guards red engine shroud.
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Very nice. I removed some very colorful powder coat on mine and tried to get it pretty clean. I'd like my fan strap to be gold again, Remember that our engines are turned 180 and sunk down in the engine bay, so unlike the 911's, not that much of the engine shows once it's in the car. But I can appreciate you wanting it to look right.

A gallon of guards red should be enought to paint the shroud. I know what to do with the extra....

Hi Mark: Yeah, I still want it to look nice even though the fan is against the firewall. Scotty did tell me that a gallon should cover the shroud, I thought that was a little excessive, but I see what is going on now.

Scotty had a chance to get the lower valve covers machined down. Came out nice.

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Here is what the engine is starting to look like. Scotty just set the injection, etc., on it to get an idea of how it will look. All that stuff will be bead blasted so it looks nice and fresh.
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I am glad we went with the guards red for the engine shroud.

I have to take mine off to bock off the oil cooler ...

Timely post. I got a pair of turbo VC's yesterday. So, are the ribs machined down even with the height of the top of the holes for the mounting studs?

Yes that is how I do them. Some people only machine the area that interferes with the suspension. I feel it looks better ( more stock ) to take the whole thing down to the same height. I did Mark's the same way.

I've gotten quite a bit more than this done lately I just haven't been on line much lately to post pics. I should have more up by mid week. Look for updates on Mark's car as well

Great! Looking forward to the pics

strip, paint, weld, repeat

few more

I guess that I am not smart enough to figure out what the loop modification on the rear of the trailing arms is for. Or what the bottom picture is for that matter

However, beautiful work as usual!

Michael wanted some substantial tow "eyes"/tie downs in the event the car ever needs to be pulled out of a canyon The bottom pic is the front of the car

OHhhhhh, I guess you mean the piece I welded ? That was the air diverter on the backside of the alternator. THey have a habit of breaking

Scotty - Thanks for posting up some pictures.

Yup - Just some "D" rings in the event the car is towed somewhere..... hopefully not. But I figured since we are stripping and refinishing the trailing arms, why not add the "D" rings. I think Scotty did a great job of making them fit the contours of the trailing arm.

I could also use them to mount some neon lights under the car so they glow while cruising down the street ....well, no.

Excellent idea!!! Any similar plans for tow points on the front? I don't like the idea of them chaining to the triangular of the control arms. I have had to have my car towed a few times. The first couple, I didn't pay much attention and they mangled my rear triangles where the donuts are.

Carry on...

Yes, we will be adding something similar to the front to hook to in the unlikely event we need to tow/tie down the car.

D rings, very cool idea

You welded up mine as well.

Not to highjack but since the subject has come up.....quick question on the 930 valve covers.....do the ribs need to be machined to fit on a stock -6? Are the genuine Porsche VCs the only ones to go with?

My recollection is the turbo valve covers will not go on and off w/o machining them as the ribs add to much size/thickness to them to remove w/o lowering the engine down.

I have no experience with non-OEM valve covers.

The other way to do this, as Scotty kind of commented on, is to just machine down the part of the valve cover which would hit during removal. I have seen them both ways and either works as long as the valve covers are media blasted and look nice.

So I was able to source a beautiful Blaupunkt Frankfurt (thanks very much T.C.) and an NOS dash plate (thanks again Jeff) for my car. Had the radio restored at German Car Radio Repair in North Hollywood, CA (thank you Herman) and also bought the cable to stream from my iPhone, should I feel the need. This is exactly the radio I wanted in my car and I am very pleased to have it.

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Things have slowed a bit as I try to finish up a 911 that is nearing the end but I have been trying to spend a little time in the evenings on Michael's car. Sandblasted the doors last week with some other stuff I had to get done and they both turned out a little surprising. Fixed the passengers door, but the drivers ended up being bad enough I'm going to pull another one I have, and see how it is. Steering wheel is ready to go out to Dallas Custom as soon as the paint sets up good

Nice to see some new shots. Let me know when the wheel ships and I will call them. Thanks Scotty.

OK so I got some photos from Palo Alto Speedometer. I have asked them for all new sending units matched to the gauges used so everything works as it should. The only unresolved issue, and we may have it resolved but have not tested it yet, is I switched to a later electronic speedometer to add the 6th digit in the odometer since my car has about 89K original documented miles on it and I do not want it to roll over to 0 in 11K miles. I want to keep the actual real mileage recorded. Hartmut told me that VDO makes a converter to go from mechanical to electric pulses to drive the speedo. Apparently I would leave the stock speedo cable going from the transaxle to the gauge area in the dash and then connect the converter so it resides near the actual gauge for a good signal and to keep it out of the elements. If that works, and I really hope it does, we are good with the gauges. Sorry, I can't find the picture of the speedometer right now. When I do, I will post it. All of these will have the "silver dots" in the center like stock. Hartmut is great to work with and I think these are going to be perfect for my car:
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Here is the triple gauge rendering. It has gone out for the actual gauge face to be made.
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OK- Here is the speedo face, nothing to see here really. The tachometer pictured is an earlier version and the redline needed to be corrected to reflect the actual 3,2 redline. That has been corrected as you can see above.

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I like the gauges a lot. Is the size of the font on the final tach face smaller? It looks much better to my eyes than the first before the redline correction.

Thanks - I think it may just be the lighting or the angle of the photo. Otherwise it should be the same.

Should it not be spelled "OEL"?