By all means try and find a cap nut that will work - post a link, let us know what you find. Saves me lathe time.

Hoping someone already has a tank out so they can measure the bung and post the size for us

It's actually a fine little piece of art.

A few things are happening, I finally took a look at the driver's side long and this is what I found. Looks solid!

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Fun little dirt and sand collection....the bottom of the jack plate looks worse than it really is...

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AN -12 lines fit through the stock hole openings in the triangle gussets along the longitudinal. Yay.

I'm trying to simplify this.

I did a simple GT mod by installing the hood opener on the grille.

Some people may not like it but I do.

You inspired me, my return fitting was in poorer condition than yours, so I made an aluminum plug similar to yours, here's the dimensions:
3 diameters,
top one that goes into the tank fitting is .45"dia by 0.3" long
mid part that fits into nut is .66" dia by .1 long, and bottom one that protrudes out bottom of nut is .37" dia by 0.3 long.
I use Viton O-ring size 2-015 is's an .070 section ring with ID of about.48"

Damn, one would think that might be 1st on your list. Oh well, your a lucky man and good on ya. Now get back to work so you can make Rt 66 in your 914. Kent

Have not done this personally, but found this pixture in Patssle's engine swap thread Click to view attachment

Damn, one would think that might be 1st on your list. Oh well, your a lucky man and good on ya. poke.gif Now get back to work so you can make Rt 66 in your 914. beerchug.gif Kent

I know, but I was busy driving the heck out of the car. I just never got around to it.

I wasn't sure -12 would fit through these gussets. It does. Duh.

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Your going to put some sort of grommet in there right?

You know, on mine I don't have any grommets. If I see it start to fray I'll do something about it but our race car mechanic said not to bother.

No grommets needed if you have both ends clamped to the body. no lateral movement. This hose is very tough and it's a tight fit. The holes are not sharp or jagged, I think it will be fine.

I've got a call in to Jesus, er, ah, um, I mean James Patrick to pick his brain a little bit on the design/layout of the oil cooling system I'm installing.

You think. Those are usually the things that bite you in the ass. As Chris H. said, "Everything I did half assed I'm re-doing now". Why not do it to perfection. It's cheap. Order some of these http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapa...napbushings.php then stop by and borrow some of my hole punches. You'll just need an crescent wrench to use them.

That is 100% true. Can't wait to weld up the holes I made in the trunk that I didn't need .

I'm actually trying to avoid drilling any holes that aren't necessary. This is taking me a while because I have to think it all out and do it how I see doing it.

Nothing like reading the Route 66 thread and WCR in Mammoth to get the /6 conversion juices flowing again. I'm fucking sick of seeing this beautiful car up on jack stands in my garage.

I'm back at it with new vim and vigor. Little by little, I might just get this running in time for Temecula.

That's the Spirit. BTW, it's not abnormal to have a 914 on jack stands.

I'll concur

Yup that's for sure. I am actually considering building an engine stand so I can run my engine to do db testing on mufflers because my car won't be ready..

The older you get, the longer they stay on jackstands.

I recently gave away all of my jack stands just so my car couldn't end up on them... Now its on a lift......

One doesn't need jack stands or a lift to still have a disabled car


... plus, it's too damn cold to be crawling around on the cold concrete right now ... brrrr

I have my welding guy coming to do the motor mounts, and some small repairs on the firewall behind the driver's seat. Water got down in behind the jute pad in the engine compartment and it rusted through in a few places. Also, a new battery tray and stand. We'll get to the front trunk soon, too, to do the oil cooler install. Little by little. I have beautiful Webers on the way also. Did I mention that this shit is expensive? (Thanks for not warning me)


http://www.early911sregistry.org/forums/sh...76-FS-40-Webers

Anybody have a spare set of turbo lower valve covers?

Good price for good carbs.

10 hrs ?????- only in our dreams


it takes almost that long to get the -6 engine out, accessories removed, & long block onto a stand

flat rate to disassemble & reassemble -6 with a case separation is at least 40 hrs - not counting cleanup & parts acquisition, nor machine work that WILL be required

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...labor-cost.html

as i recall it's about 35 hrs for a -4

I'm happy that this set of carbs came along because I was thinking PMOs, and that would have been $4500.

Today was a momentous day. The set of Weber Carbs arrived and I'm very pleased. Welded in the motor mount and fixed the battery tray. A few more things to repair and weld tomorrow. Engine tin is here, too. Wow, I may make it to WCR yet.

They go here, right?

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That motor is art!!

That looks great! You know how good that is going to sound right?

Looking sweet Lawrence! Better keep that garage door closed.
I might do a drive by and grab that beast.

Way to go, Lawrence! I remember the feeling of "welding day," "carburetor day," and others like them. Mileposts on your way to "key day." And when it starts up with six cylinders for the first time, your 914 will be forever changed...into something more exotic, more sophisticated. Maybe a bit less "toss-able"...but oh my, the elastic powerband and the noises. Did I mention the noises? Just you wait.

Enjoy the ride!

I added (welded in) a pair of console-to-firewall support bars today compliments of Elyut.

This thing just might make it to a 914 event this calendar year?

A little "while you're in there" repair on the firewall. Hard to get perspective, but this is behind the driver's seat. Water got behind the sound pad and rusted a couple holes. It's just tacked/started, we'll finish it tomorrow. We ran out of light.

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Went by Larmo's place to pick up a few parts and to take a look at my engine stand with his motor on it.... and met his welder guy / first rate/ the whole way. Methodical and filing the profile on his wire prior to welding. First rate.

I get to dive into the engine compartment now that the rear welding is done, for a roto-rooter sesh, clean-up, prime and paint.

How fun.

Anyone want to chime in with tips on working in the engine compartment? I have a wire wheel head on the end of a cordless drill.

This seems like it is going to take forever.

What are you trying to do? If you're trying to mechanically remove paint and gunk, there are way better tools including media blasting.

I can't really media blast in my garage. This is a complete car, I don't want to take it all apart just to media blast the engine bay.

Ok....I thought easy is what you said. Not sure what "easy" means.


From the looks of the surfaces in the thread looks like you may of had some petroleum type undercoating sprayed on? Not sure what work you are doing inside the engine compartment, so I'll assume you are trying to look for any bad rust spots and to do that you need to get down to the base metal to fix or add strengthening components given the motor you are installing....... so..................with that said:

Plain old gas works well to get that off or grease off. Have to really soak it and it will smell a lot. You can use a stronger solvent like acetone or brake cleaner but for that I recommend good resistant glove and a good NIOSH type mask. Solvent are not good for you or other living things.


After that my best results are a good amperage high RPM drill with a good quality brass cone wire wheel first and lots of elbow grease. Not easy. Follow up with a good quality stainless cone wire wheel on a angle air grinder ( these are not cheap) and the best ones I have found are from McMaster Carr and can hold up past 7K rpm's. The ones from Home Depot will last about five minutes and cost you about 7 bucks each.....so not worth it and not easy.

Others like Cary or Rick may chime in but from my chair those things work okay.

Easy to me is something that is done or I pay somebody else to do.

Larmo 63, I was in the same boat two years ago, but needed to do the entire car. Tried a lot, solvents, fein tool, all kinds of wheels, scrapers.....The answer is the long arm angle grinder from HF. reaches in to all the corners. Worked so well I did the whole bottom of my car in four hours. Got into all the tight inner fender area's, just great and fast. Only problem, it has a bolt type fixture on the end, so you need to take the wire wheel remove post and drill 1/4" hole. Not hard, one wheel did entire car. Hope this make sense, I keep looking for a photo of it. Best, Mark

Found it. Love your carbs, I'm still looking. Have fun. MarkClick to view attachment

The other thing I have found is a wheel for a grinder brand name is Norton rapid strip wheel. About 8 bucks online. I removed everything to bare metal on my front wheel well and gender in 15 minutes on a standard 4.5 inch grinder.

If you don't have lots of air compressor capacity, a cheap harbor freight 4.5" angle grinder with cone type wire brushes do a great job of getting into most confined areas.
I've had mine for several years and keeps on ticking.

Thanks guys, I just need to get back in there and git 'r done. It's a dirty area, and the crap they used to keep the sound pad on is very difficult to remove.

Back at it today.

We usually watch the "game" for the commercials, but lately, even those have sucked.

If that Norton Rapid strip wheel one that looks like a Sponge on Steroids then . Those things are vicious and they leave the metal alone while producing very little heat. They last forever, too!