I'm glad this part is behind me. I had that thing in and out 50 times. Anywho, this is what I came up with. Let me clarify I; Bigcat suggested the radiator and fan set up. I just put em together. It's an Intrepid fan/s unit and Sirocco radiator. The fan set up is defective and was used as a mock up while a new one is shipped. The 2 are < $150 combined with shipping.

Here is the radiator/fan in it's removable frame.

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A look at the radiator to frame attach point. There are two per side. and yes those are cheese head screws.

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A side view of the same shot. That is a faucet washer compressed between the rad post and the frame.

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The square 1" legs of the frame will sit over these posts

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And the smaller round legs will sit atop these

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The square receiver end gets a rubber cushion

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With this slightly massage washer to protect the rubber from wearing against the post.

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Then the unit is set and held in place by these hitch pins. For future access I will be able to remove all the radiator, shroud, etc. < 10 min's.

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And in place

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Man you are really moving fast! Great work!

I'm still re-sealing my 3.3 and doing all the maintenance stuff but hope to be done pretty soon.

Hey thanks, Chris. How's your's coming along? I was busy as Hell last week, didn't get done so I ended up on page 3. Got to hit it again yesterday so I did a final fit then welded in the side pieces that should mostly seal the gaps between the radiator and sides. There will be strips of felt or Armorflex between the metal and plastic radiator, eventually.

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This piece will need to be massaged against the wall and then all seams and gaps get sealed with Wurth's at metal to metal junctions.

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Then the bottom piece which was done with aluminum for obvious reasons.

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The top/cover piece slides beneath the rain channel. This piece will be pop riveted in place to facilitate easy removal. Plate nuts, rivenuts or any other kind of nut would not work as the piece slides against the bottom of the channel and anything placed there would obstruct the travel of the cover piece. I'll use blind rivets which will not allow water thru like an ordinary pop rivet would. They're only pennies each and drill out in < 5 seconds each.

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I was determined to keep the hood OG (sans Hood pins) so this is how I went about it. These screws will be replaced with black allen head cap screws.

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Work has been keeping me busy so this is all that I've done.

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Time to get the suspension upgraded. I've covered most of this in other threads but I thought I'd at least hit the highlights here so I can relive it from the old age home one day. 1st some 914 porn courtesy of PMB.

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I began with the L front. I had done ball joints/tie rods, brakes, etc. previously so shocks were all that were necessary. The old shock was a blown out KYB which accounted for a noise I heard occasionally. When I dropped the new Bilstein it went 90% in and stopped. The old shock was narrow but this new one is fat and binding. Pulled it out and looked inside and found this bit of rust.

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Ran a 2" wire fitting brush thru it several times. I even ran a rotary file over the areas that had rust, in case the metal had raised but it still would not fit.

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I discovered that area where it bound was the spot where the brake tab is welded on. It probably took a hit there and PO replaced with these skinny shits as a go around. Anyway, my buddy Ethan had these laying around so I cleaned up the L one and I was back in business.

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Bought this little tool to aid in refurbishing the trailing arms.

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Pressing out the old bearing from the inside.

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And here it is from the other side exiting the arm.

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New poly bushings going in

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Final assembly of the trailing arm

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A few installed (less brakes) pics. Rear brake caliper rebuild is next.

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I would not recommend running your radiator lines through the heater ducts int he long. It's great coming from the engine bay. Not so great inside where it goes up & over by the gas tank. Just adds another high spot to your lines. Makes it damn near impossible to get all the air out of the line.

I had considered opening the long inside near the front just before the heater duct goes up. Then adding a small boxed in area at the passenger feet keeping the hose flat & going through right above the steering rack. Just thinking though.

I had my lines originally run through the heater ducts. Never got it to cool properly until I ran the lines under the car. I don't love the lines there but it has literally never been a problem with them down there. You progress is looking great

Hey Jamie, I thought of you last week when my Triton engine blew the spark plug out of #3. I hope that I don't have to run the lines beneath the car but I would if necessary. BTW, I'm going beneath the fuel tank. This might be SOT but I read about these high spots causing a problem because of the air that gets trapped and wondered if this might be a solution in some cases. For 50+ years the Heating and AC trades have used a Hoffman #89 Air Vent to correct this. Most boiler systems and all chill water systems employee these valves. Installed on the high point of any system it will vent out any air in the system, always and automatically. (I might be off one digit on the Hoffman #. It might be a #88. Senility ) Sent some more $$$$ to Eric Shea's retirement fund yesterday.

Kent,
Maybe ping member 914GT.. he ran his lines for his Chevy conversion under the car but used iron pipe, so there was no chance of it ripping open. They were ran up the indentations on the floor panel.

That was an excellent build! I'm bouncing between that idea and putting the hoses in the longs...Hurry up and find an engine Kent!

PS - My clutch stuff is coming Thursday.

Here's an idea for the under car hoses.

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Bob

Love it Bob. Really cool alternative.

This is a car from Canada that is posted on a picture site. Its very nice. It has power steering and brakes.
The pictures are about 10 yrs old.


Bob

Chris, I've done everything but chant. Maybe I'll go see Miss Rudolf to get this mojo off my ass. And once I find an engine or donor car the flood gates will open and there will be 10 good deals that I could have waited on. I just keep finding some thing else to do while I wait.
Bob, I had heard of that but if I went beneath the car I would run rubber hose. I would rather face a problem with repairing the hose than with welding that up in BFE (which is where it always happens ). + it's got to weight 45 lb's. I wanted to ask if you had any clearance problems between the radiator hose and tie rod. Or, I think that's the route you showed in a pic.

914GT attached the pipes in a pretty unique way...his thread seems to have vanished though. I'll try to find the pics. Seemed very sturdy.

Kent, the sources I would scour if you want an SVX are:

Craigslist
SubaruSVX
SVX World

And e-bay and the local classifieds. Get a whole car if you can so you don't have to wonder if you have all the stuff you need, plus you can drive it to make sure it runs well. Most seem to be listed for a lot more than what someone would sell it for RIGHT NOW WITH CASH. If you find one let me know, I can tell you what parts to keep. Not every part is worth $ like a teener.

I haven't posted here for a few days and thought that I had better get busy. If I'm doing the suspension I may as well do the brakes. I had previously done the fronts and now is the time for the rears. Check out Old Crusty. Not the Cap't., the caliper.....

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So after dis assembly I'm left with this mess.....

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one dirty Ebrake return spring......

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one clean spring, BTW, I cleaned this spring in < 2 min's (and many other brake parts) with a $5 3/4" copper fitting brush which I sawed the wooden handle off of and then chucked it into my bench top drill press.

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the brake lines were held with rubber jaws in the vise while I cleaned them with some sand cloth.

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5 min's later

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some Shea stuff

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a little dab of self etching primer after parts are cleaned

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a little paint. the red is a VHT caliper paint whilst the silver is.......well it's silver

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some shiny parts

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and one dress rehearsal before final assembly

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and in place

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EDIT: If an Admin drops in would you pls remove the last two pics that I somehow added as an attachment and cannot remove. TIA, kent

Look what landed in my garage yesterday. Couldn't believe it happened so fast. Let me back up. 22 March I joined CoParts with the 30 day free trial membership. The Copart site lets people like you and me buy cars through an agent (ING in my case). There is a fee for this (300-400) and you must put up $400 min deposit. If you want to place a bid of more than $4000 then you would need to pony up some more. They have a "buy it now" feature which I used on 19 April. I know I paid a bit more rather than bidding on it but I only had 3 days left on my membership and would have had to pony up for an annual membership had I not purchased by the 22nd so I rationalized this as a wash. . Once they received the wire transfer I was allowed to have the car picked up. So 1030 hr's Monday I put in a request for transport bids which come quickly. I received quotes from $1250 (guaranteed delivery within 2 days) to $350. I called the 350 quote and held his feet in the fire until he said that it would be picked up this week. I gave them $100 over the phone and was told to give $250 cash to the driver upon arrival. OK. 45 min's later I receive a call from the driver wanting the lot number. He was there and headed my way. 26 hours and $350 after my first call to the transport company it was in my driveway. Kudos to Brad at Lightning Auto Carriers (Boca Raton, FL) for being a man of his word.
Shit, this is a nice car and I'm trying not to get attached to it. Especially since it's my favorite color; green! Everything works except the drivers side mirror. The check engine light is on so I started it and let it idle for about 40 min's to check for overheating and/or fluid leaks. No problems. So far. All the fluids are topped off and "clean". Even the oil and air filter are clean. Good sign that the PO took care of her. Great tires but they are 16". She idles smoothly and shifts well so the tranny will bring some $$. HF has the OBDII scanner for $49 this week so I think I will see why that "check engine" lite is on before the transplant. I won't know what to believe once it's transplanted and I'm up to my neck in error codes. So w/o further adieu meet Greenie:

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Hoping to add this wheel and steering column, too. And I believe those gages should graft in as well.

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with lots of thread

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But this, more than any other reason, is why I wanted this car.

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Topless

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I know Chris will outrun me with his 3.3 but it's what I wanted. Unfortunately, I cannot begin stripping her until after 23 May because I have tons of family coming for my daughters graduation. She's getting her masters and the truth be told; that means the world to me.

awesome, glad you found what you wanted. That's the same motor, and car I just finished tearing apart for my conversion. A 10mm socket, and a Phillips screwdriver will take most of the interior apart, the computer is under the passenger side carpet.
It will be nicer being able to take your time stripping the donor, I had to do mine all in one day, not so fun.
Great find, have fun tearing it apart.

Jeff

Thx, JC. I read your thread and 1 day is rushing it. At least for my old, dumb Any other tips to share or pitfalls that you discovered?

It would be helpful to have another person to help strip the interior after the engine is out, going back and forth will wear you out, lots of bolts and screws, most will come out without too much trouble. The AC/heater box was a real pain, can't get it out without taking it apart, or breaking it in half with a hammer. I saved a few dash trim pieces just in case, things I wasn't saving I didn't worry about breaking to get it done faster.
Steering column comes out with three bolts, I'd take it out as soon as you can for better access. I think the main thing is take your time since you can, buy a book on the car, you won't find one that covers the 6cyl engine, but the rest is the same. It will help identify parts so you can label everything on the wire harness as you take it apart, easier now than later. Subaru doesn't sell a manual, they sell sections, starting at around $30 per section, so I just bought the chiltons manual for now.
They had already pulled the engine on mine, so can't help there.

Good luck

Jeff

NIIICE! Great work Kent! That's a very strong motor and it's a lot smaller than the 3.3 and newer. I would not worry at all about the CEL as long as it runs OK. Could be something as simple as a wire with the coating worn off but it's probably a sensor or solenoid that you may or may not need. With the availability of used parts and the fact that many are universal across the Subie line there's not much you can't fix cheaply. Post the codes when you get them.

Take your time stripping it. It's exhausting (Jeff, have you recovered ?) . Going through the wiring harness now. Worst part yet for sure.

Family trumps car stuff any day. That's why mine is going pretty slow. Maybe I can catch up with you on the progress

Chris, I'd have to agree with you on the wiring harness being a PITA. This is the starting point for me. After my daughter's graduation, family and entourage left 5/22. Miss them but it was time to begin the all out assault on the Suby. I was pussy footing around the first week or so, then out came the sawzall. I never would have been able remove the dash w/o one. Just like any predator I began at the rear and worked my way forward. I try to gather as much info on my own as possible before posting on the Suby boards. Those guy's will flame you in a second. Makes me appreciate each one of you guy's here. So, I began with exposing and removing the wiring from everything that is not conditional to the engine running. i.e I pull a plug and start the car. If it doesn't start I reconnect just that plug and move on to the next while identifying each wire as I go.
This is the harness that passes along the lower R side. Upper R side is Moon and Sun Roof wiring which I won't be using. This harness catches the rear running lights, rear washer & WW's, fuel pump/sender, misc evap vac/press sensors, and rear door motors/switches/locks.

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Here it passes alongside the rear psg seat and on to the rear. The access ports for the fuel sender and fuel pump are shown here. The harness that feeds this wraps around the back seat and then enters on the rear L side???? Seems the long way around but.........

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Some carnage shots. After all this I am to the point of pulling the engine. Did anyone notice the gage cluster is removed. Cars still starts and runs. Blew my mind. FWIW, the yellow harness' are the air bag/restraint system. Also, plastic squirt and roof drain lines are overhead L side along with most audio lines. Good idea! Separate power and water as well as RF interference.

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You guys who re-purpose the wiring harness and all that have a LOT more smarts and courage than I do. I used to look down on guys who threw tools when they were frustrated, but if I had that in my garage I think I'd have to re-think all that, because I'm pretty sure tools would be thrown.

You're doing great Kent! I failed to mark many of the interior wires which is really biting me in the arse right now. Label every flipping wire man. It's worth it in the end. If you end up cutting them later that's OK. Still worth the investment. Otherwise you lose your "bearings" on what part of the wiring harness is what...if it's all labeled you can confidently trim it down bit by bit til you end up with only what you need.

I have an eg33 that will be going into my westfalia and there is a company called Small car that has wiring harness modification directions. I know this is for westfalias but it should work for what your doing too.

From the website-
"This kit enables a person with some wiring ability and lots of time to take a Subaru "bulkhead" wiring harness, remove a large number of connectors and wires, splice and add some wiring and end up with just what is necessary to run the engine in another vehicle. These wiring kits are unique to each Subaru year and model. Please note that this kit is a guide for harness modification and not a step by step manual. The expected time commitment to convert a harness is 20-40 hours for the first timer."

Jon

Got a friend that is selling a 99k 2003 EZ30D with the wiring harness and computer for $1000. I told him that was a hell of a deal. I would not pull the harness for that price.
I think the best thing to do would just use the connectors. Make your own from scratch.

Bob

Cool!
This is the best part of the trip.

You read my mind Chris. And this car had incandescent bulbs originally so shouldn't be any weird surprises. I'm using the Suby rear view which has an auto dimming feature for the headlights in the mirror syndrome. I am using the suby sun visors which can swivel to the side. If the side mirrors weren't so big I'd use those. Going in for the bun warmers too. My wife's one request.


Yea. I considered that route but I've read too many threads where people like me stumble and fall on their face when trying to program the ECU, which you didn't mention. Add $1500 for the ECU. The wiring should be tedious but doable.


Thx for that info that you sent, Bob. BTW, what is the proper sequence for removing the bolys from that 58 bolt cover? If I lived close to you I would attempt that but I don't know shit from apple butter when it comes to any FI other than DJet. I'd just end up having someone hold my hand through the whole process. I may end up going that route but I hope this works. I'd feel better knowing that some 40 yr old wire is being replaced with something newer, too.

You read my mind Chris. And this car had incandescent bulbs originally so shouldn't be any weird surprises. I'm using the Suby rear view which has an auto dimming feature for the headlights in the mirror syndrome. I am using the suby sun visors which can swivel to the side. If the side mirrors weren't so big I'd use those. Going in for the bun warmers too. My wife's one request.


Yea. I considered that route but I've read too many threads where people like me stumble and fall on their face when trying to program the ECU, which you didn't mention. Add $1500 for the ECU. The wiring should be tedious but doable.


Thx for that info that you sent, Bob. BTW, what is the proper sequence for removing the bolys from that 58 bolt cover? If I lived close to you I would attempt that but I don't know shit from apple butter when it comes to any FI other than DJet. I'd just end up having someone hold my hand through the whole process. I may end up going that route but I hope this works. I'd feel better knowing that some 40 yr old wire is being replaced with something newer, too.

Program the ECU? I didn't know I had to do that either. I never came across that in my research. I sure don't need that extra expense.

If you bought an aftermarket ECU from a company like Outfront it will have a good map already installed. They'll ask you about your engine, any performance modifications, and put in one that will get you up and running well enough that in most cases you won't even need to change anything. Then you can fine tune and pick up some additional power with an hour of dyno time. That's what I did, and had them make the engine harness too, no big deal. If it's a Megasquirt or some other ECU not from Outfront you can usually get a base map from the vendor or someone else for free, then either do the fine tuning yourself (an EXCELLENT learning experience and well worth the aggravation) or pay for an hour or two of dyno time to have it tuned for you. The OEM ECU will have the Subaru map installed, so no issue there.

It's a trade really, the work of modifying an OEM ECU and harness against the expense of buying an aftermarket ECU, harness and dyno time. With an aftermarket ECU you'll have probably better tunability and a leaner car, because you can't incorporate all the features that can come with the OEM equipment. But of course with the OEM you get a tested and proven system that's long-term robust, where a Subaru mechanic or dealership won't be lost if you need help somewhere. As long as your work modifying the OEM harness was done well, anyway.

Some very good points, DB. I had already formulated my plan before I found out about this option or that Mega Squirt has the 3.0 mapped out, now. Leave it to me to find the most difficult way to do something.
Between a very busy work schedule and the NBA Finals, I finally got this sucker pulled. There has been a lot of work going on but nothing to post that would reflect that.
Thanks to Ethan and his Dad, Paul for the loan of the cherry picker. Next up is re- sealing this engine where it has a few small oil leaks, then on to the actual fitment. The leaks seem to be on the lower corners of the heads. Those corner bolts were loose, also. The timing chain cover appears to have a small leak, too.

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I used My "Andy Lens" for this shot.
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Congrats on all the hard work! Will be watching this build closely!!

Well I finally got the last wiring harness out. If and when I get this sorted out (thought I'd give myself some breathing room in case this is over my head ) I expect the harness should be about the same size as the teeners. Notice the rear view mirror in the pic. It has an auto dimming feature which should be the Cats Ass in a teener. It was a Royal PITA to remove it w/o cutting it. Hope it pays off. When taking this pic today I was once again questioning my sanity. Is this project bigger than me? What was I thinking? Then I tell myself to compartmentalize things and take a deep breath. Anyway, the cannibalization of the donor is over and it's time to see what fits.

Dear God.

Kent, I know that feeling but you are doing great. You have no idea how much time you saved by labeling the harness so well. Another tip is DO NOT un-bundle the harness and unravel all the electrical tape at once. Just dissect it one plug at a time. Pick the wires you don't need and cut them out, pull them through the harness, done. Mine is a knotted mess now. The good news is I don't plan to use most of the body harness after all so most will be thrown away. It was pretty weathered and probably worse for wear than the 914 one. Yours looks pretty fresh!

Piece of cake.
Learn how to open the connectors before you start cutting wires.
They are all different but kind of the same.
Is that rear view mirror controlled by the integrated module?
The integrated module was a mystery box for me. I think it controls the dimmer on the dash. I finally deleted it. Looks like you have everything you need, hope you get the mirror working
In the end, if you need some extra Bg, Ry, Wr,… wire, let me know I may have some extra.

Thanks guys, good info. And I hope that I pulled off the turboencabulator that controls the mirror, too. I'll bet those wires are in the 35lb arena. I'll probably get $50 just for the scrap copper. I need to get those harness' attached to my "work station", spread out and disected. I'll need to build a frame for the engine but need to buy a tranny so I can mount the starter and on and on and on. It will be a long road. I need to hear it run and check out the electrical before I start stripping the wiring from the 914. Some days I wish I knew what I was doing.

What I thought was an intelligent way of organizing things:



He does it regularly, of course, so it's kind of a production tool, but it still made sense to me as a way of keeping things sorted.

That's pretty much what I have planned except vertical. I don't have enough room otherwise. I plan to use the garage door

Needed something to do but I have the engine cleaned up and awaiting some seals. Then Aircraft Spruce sold me the wrong size 4130 tube so I can't start making motor mounts. (Notice how I blamed ACS. That felt good. Kinda relieves one of that nagging feeling brought on by accountability.) Herschel came by and picked up the Subaru skeleton today so that's done. Then I remembered the shock kit that Elyut sold me. Smoking deal, thx.
Left rear

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right rear

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left front

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right front

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I've always had a clunk as the rear lid was raised and lowered but basically ignored it. After I removed the old torsion bars and rollers I was able to see this. And before you say anything those are not my welds. Mine aren't nearly that good. I knew this area needed to be cleaned up but hadn't expected this. What is supposed to be there? A bearing? A bolt? A nut? I'll find out when I pull it apart I guess.

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The right side is gut sans the welds again. These welds look like someone tried to stick weld them on. Surely not factory. I have this side to reference if I don't get an answer.

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So Saturday I'll head back to ACS for the correct size 4130 tube to begin the motor mounts. This will be totally out of my league but Ian won't have any for a few month's (if ever) and I ain't getting any younger. That being said, what are the target dimensions for the engine height wise if I'm going with the suby 5mt tranny. TIA

The 4130 tube arrived so it was time to get Blackie up and start with the mount. Besides I need the room to weld in the new trunk hinge when it arrives. I bought a 4x4 and ran a dado cut down it to accept the flange on the bottom of the longs. Flame on.

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No, I am not making the cradle from wood. Just trying to visualize.

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I had planned to heat bend the tube but proved to be a PIA. Too tricky to keep below 1500F and I don't have any means to heat treat so it was off to HF. With my coupon I walked out with this for $79. Out of the dark ages now.

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The first pieces. Next is to locate some bushing stock or some 5/16 weld tabs (if they make such a thing).

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PS, Blackie is getting a new name. Just discovered that name is already in use. His new name is Frank.

Not sure about the 3.0 but the stock 3.3 manifolds were way too long. I got headers from Bob that sit very close to the engine underneath. Perfect fit, but I might have to cut one of the braces on my Ian mount for that reason. Might want to make sure you don't weld any bracing in that area.

Put some jack stands under that car brotha! Just for backup!

Hey Chris , I thought about that so I will pick up the collector from Outfront and fit it to the engine before fabbing that part. I also need to check the cradle for clearance of the 1/2 shafts as well as ground clearance of the exhaust. The jack stands get in the way with what I am doing just now. It is very stable as it sits now. I had a crazy idea last nite. I think I will look at modifying the cradle to accept casters that would drop in/out. It would be nice to slap on the casters, lower the cradle onto the floor and roll in/out. How's your project coming along?

I received the trunk hinge from Restoration Design so I took a break from the engine cradle to attack this.

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I had noticed the mud dauber welds earlier and then found that the hinge had rusted thru also. After grinding down the old welds and removing the old hinge it looked like this

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But a close up reveals a crappy previous repair as well as brazing...........

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I'll need to get this area cleaned up and I'll beef up this area before welding in the replacement piece.

Check out the Key Chain I received from Restoration Design. Coooooooooool.

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Bob did a nice job on the exhaust I bought from him. Check out his blog. It also has pics of his mount.

Great idea on the casters. That way you won't dread dropping the engine. Seems like it would be easy to do. My gut is telling me there is NO WAY I did everything right so far, so I expect to drop the engine and trans at least a couple of times. On my project I've been working on the 5 lug conversion. Should be done this weekend. Then I have to decide if I drop the engine and trans and start the install or keep it as is and take it to Garold's before the swap. Great work! Keep it up!

I think I finally discovered Bob's build at NARP. I was reading the ScoobyDo forum and saw that Blue car and realized BK was Bob. Damn he does nice work. He also said something about changing that exhaust setup so I've been . We need to send a reporter to document his next build.

Your "jack stands" scare me.

I ground out all the brazing from a previous repair then filled holes and ground them down. This is the last of the welded holes.

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Ready for weld thru primer.

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Reinforcement piece 18ga.

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Reinforcement piece welded in

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Primed with weld thru. Ready for the hinge piece to be welded to it now.

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Here's the new one. Thanks Restoration Design.

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Primed and ready to have the nut from the back side welded in

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Welded in place. It's ugly but substantial. It's a bitch to get that tip in there.

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And everything welded/primed and ready for the lid to be mounted, shocks slipped on make any adjustments necessary. The motion of the trunk lid is now smooth as a baby's .

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With that out of the way it's time to get back to the motor mount. This thing is going to have it's way with me but eventually (aka more $$) I'll get it. It's a start stop scenario so bear with me.
I took some 1/4"x 4" sq plates and used the Subaru piece as a guide. After I made the slots in each piece I realized that it wasn't necessary. A solitary hole would have been fine but now I have a little more wiggle room.

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A quick test fit

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One is the mirror image of the other so using 2 of the 4 bolt holes the plates are bolted together and the 1st piece is the template for the other.

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The plates in place

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I need the engine level to get these next measurements.

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Right & left motor mounts are at 32 degrees.

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Well I'm at the stopping point again . I need the exhaust flanges before I can go any further with the cradle so I stuck some pieces up just for shits n grins.


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Yippie Picked up a tranny from an 03 WRX 2.0T, 74K miles., pressure plate, throw out bearing, some 1/2 shafts he threw in (away). This will help answer my cradle questions. Bottom line is that the center line off the 1/2 shafts is roughly at the bottom of the heads. Porcharu is sending me some majic flanges in a few weeks, too. Only one pair left!!!

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