This will be my electric car when the batteries get down to a responsible price. So I want to build it strong enough to hold the weight of the batteries.
I plan this to be my forever daily driver/commuter car.

Awesome idea Cary.

That was why I purchased my black 70', for an EV project.

My wife's Prius needs just a few more miles on it;-}

Back to it .............
Going to remove the remnant of the rear inner firewall.
Plan to leave to back one and the corner to see if I can reuse the corner.

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First thing is to remove the rear engine lid cable tube.

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Weapon of choice. Mapp gas torch.

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Spot welds are marked and ready to be drilled out.
Still using Rotacut spot welder cut #2

Removed the j-pipe. The red arrows show you were the 2 tack welds are. I've now removed two. Both pipes have had the tack welds in the same place. The problem being is the 3 lb's of seam sealer spread over the entire area. Makes it very hard to find the tack welds.

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Here's the tore up corner that is on the car ..............

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Now to remove the front inner fender .............

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Tack welds were attacked with big and little cutting disks.

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No way to get at this tack weld. So I cut it out from the back side with the
small cutting disk. Hit it dead on......

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Another tough spot ..............finished with cold chisel.

Here she is sitting in her soon to be new home..................

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Here's the long after a couple hours of sand blasting ..................
Paint : very easy
Rust : a little more work
Seam Sealer : PIA ...........

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All in all a pretty good day. It will still need a patch at the bottom of what was the jack
point location. Inner box needs a little work too ................
I'm going to repost my inner box question in its own thread.

Another work day...............

I got the inner reinforcement out of the drivers wheelhouse long. So that when I install the new inner long it will be ready for the new inner box.
No real way to find or drill out the spot welds. So I just kind of pried it out of there.
Using Rick's BA screwdriver method, a little chisel action. Both hand and air.
Cut the inside edge with a Dremel disk. Took a few. But it got the job done.
Turned out pretty good.

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Duplicate Post

Hi Cary,
The engine mounts are coming to you UPS. Sorry it took months. Progress looks fantastic.

As things are progressing.
I unpacked the brake master cylinder floorboard area I bought from Bruce.

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Looks really nice. I'm thinking it might be my first real part to get washed in the parts washer.

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Waiting for it to warm up enough so I can leave the soap solution in it without worrying about freezing.

Finally broke down and bought my new Millermatic 180.
This is a milestone purchase for me. I've been wanting one for a long time.
But my 15 year old 90 amp Craftsmen 115v just wouldn't wear out.

Here she is right out of the box.

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Test fitting the inner fender after trimming a bit off.

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I still don't get the flash rust deal.
I strip these parts with a sand blaster and I don't get the flash rust everyone is talking about.
At least I don't think I do.
There's a little on the fenders. Both they've been bare metal for a couple years.

Some days here in PDX its 100% humidity.

It's there. Don't trust your eyes.

Use a metal ready or similar to protect it between work sessions.

Here's the motor mounts that where sent by Worn.
Thank You ................

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Taking a time out to get the other car ready for season opening AX on 3/15-16.

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New front trunk seal with a little rust repair.
And welded the engine lid hinge bracket solid to the firewall.

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Back to work. Super In Law (82) back working on the inner fender patch.
Its our first use of the Millermatic 180.

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Me, I'm getting the other car ready for this weekends Drivers Skills Clinic and AX.

Just ordered a new set of Falken Azenis RT-615Ks.

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Good work on saving another teener!



John

Working on setting things up to install the drivers long.

Asked for a little help on welding shrinkage.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1833832

Here's where we ended the day. Continuing to work on the fit.

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Still working on the drivers long.
Had a little trouble with creating the patch under the jack point.

I did finally got the doors properly aligned.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1833832

The day finally came. We installed the drivers long.

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Here it is prepped and ready to go.
1. Flanges painted with brush on weld thru primer.
2. Cavity painted with Rustoleum.

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Inner fender prepped with brush on primer and Rustoleum.

Here it is tacked in place and back on the rotisserie.

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Both sides at exactly the same level.
Started with a door gap of 5.5mm, finished at 5mm.

Here's the inner fender to long welds.

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Mine are the two bottom ones.
1/2 plug, 1/2 tack. I don't want the bitch moving.

Super In Law got a little carried away on his.
By the end of this project I'll either be a master welder or a master grinder.

Things are looking up ..............

We patched the bottom of the drivers wheelhouse. The spot under the rear floor jack point. Super In Law had a little trouble trying to get the puddle to move without blowing holes in it.
I'll try and do some more work on the right side ................
Both sides are new metal. Don't know exactly what the problem was.
I think he's out too far with the wire.

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Inside is just about prepped for the inner box.

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Starting to look like a whole car again ................

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Sorry for the low light phone picture.

Laying out the next project..............
Complete passenger side wheelhouse replacement.

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It's going to nice working with new metal.

Good work...Keep on rollin man!

I agree, working with new metal is a real treat!

I've been following along, glad to see someone going deeper into a 914 than I have.
Just remember the replacement panels are galvanized - best to sand it off anywhere you're going to weld.

Uhhmmm, Cary. Does the super in law do house calls? You are one lucky guy. Nice work. Trying to follow close behind with my 6 conversion. Thanks for keeping your 914 from the scrap heap.

I'm thinking that Super In Law isn't wire brushing between welds.
Along with having too much wire out form tip.

Nathan, I usually hit it with the grinder. Probably a bit harsh.
I think I'll pick up a few 80 grit Rolocs.
Thanks for the heads up.

Switching days off.
We'll be back at it tomorrow.
Stopping at a cute little cafe for breakfast.
We've been driving by it for 3 years.

Super in Law is working on the insert sleeve.
Took 2 shots at it. Not quite tight enough.
So we'll try it again.

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While he was working on the insert pattern.
I thought I'd look at the seam sealer behind the door latch plate.
There is quite a pile of seam sealer in there.

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Right behind the door handle too.

How does this deal work?
There is a light metal frame right at the base of the sail panel.
Just tacked in there with 4 wimpy welds, then a pile of seam sealer.

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So decided that I would start tearing into the passenger side wheelhouse.

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Start drilling out spot welds...............

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Just when I think I can remove the inner wheelhouse longitudinal.
I find these tack welds way up at the end of the wheelhouse.
Not good............ I tried chiseling them out.
Poked a couple holes with the chisel.

Got it out. Cut it into three pieces to get it out.

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Made a mess .............I'm thinking I went thru 6 cutting disks.

Test fitting a couple pieces. Inner needs some trimming to get it to fit against the trunk wall.

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Now in lies the big question. How do weld back in the top of the
inner wheelhouse long against the rear trunk.
I'm thinking arc welder turning way down with a small rod?

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In answer to your first question. Yes.
He's heading out this am to help lay a Pergo floor.

I hate to think of the day when he wont be out there helping me.

I would turn the mig up high and then make sure that you concentrate the heat at the larger metal. That's the problem with mig welding, because heat and fill are hard to separate. Stick is pretty similar in that regard. It sounds like you are worried about penetration at the long. Try a test piece of the same thickness. With your new torch I bet it works.

plug weld from the shock tower side

I don't think I can reach in there ....................
But I haven't tried.

No access. Its backs up to a closed in cavity. The shock tower hole.

TIME OUT

Oldest son came up from Eugene for Easter. The coolant leak we've been chasing finally let go.
Its on a 2002 A6 2.7T.
At first glance I'm hoping its a hose. But it's probably the gasket on the water pump. It has about 60k on it.

I got lucky. He and my daughter in law just drove to SF for spring break. Took about 16oz on the way down. And about 16oz on the way back. I was still thinking it was a weeping hose connection.

It let go right here at the house. I did the timing belt service myself about 60k ago. We'll see if it was my workmanship or a failed component.

I'm going to the shop after work to pick up the leak detector lamp kit and the HF camera.

Water pump gasket let go.
And I can see a hairline crack in the impeller.
Might as well throw in a new cam timing belt while I'm in there.
We've gone 65k since the last one.

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Yippy, skippy .................

At least I'll have Pelican 911 Boards burgers and beer tomorrow night.

All cleaned up and waiting for a hose from Audi.
One of those while I'm in there. Must be Jeff Gamroth rubbing off on me. 4 hoses, $250.

So I'll head out to the shop and get back to work. I'm going to put a new jack point on the white car first. When I pulled the rocker panel I found it packed with sand.

Oh yeah.
Workmanship investigation.
I used RTV on the gasket. Which was the preferred practice at the time. Now its a no no.
Looks like the gasket broke down over time.
Water pump impeller had a hair line crack too. So timing was actually good.

New preferred method is dry. I just cant bring myself to do that on a water pump. So I discussed it with my 911 Yoda (Steve Weiner).
He would use a product called Gasgacinch. That's the direction I'll go.

I have always like permatex non hardening. Super sticky and makes a mess that tells you that you have achieved something. Gasgacinch is pretty nice too and far less messy.