The Milwaukie may be a little more tool than you need. Two good features are:1, the head can rotate about it's axis as related to the handle so it can adapt to odd angles; 2, by flipping the head it transforms from hi to lo speed or vice versa. They're big 'n heavy but very well made. I've had mine for 30+ years!

I was told the left one is a 911 ............. Mark is planning to start a rebuild service on those also.

You need to vapor blast them. They will look like new.

Here's the ones I'm looking at.

http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwaukee-2415...iWjsRoC3xjw_wcB

https://store.snapon.com/90-Angle-Drill-Set...t--P634533.aspx

The Milwaukee might be too big. The Snap On might not accept my spot weld cutters.

Missed it by a mile, I did! This is the one I was referring to. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/3102-6

That's what I thought you had.
I would probably have to remove the entire qtr. panel to use that.

Cary, I watched a recent video on YouTube of a guy using a 3/8" belt sander on spot welds. That may be the ticket for this tight area???
You mentioned this earlier.

I have one, but I think it will be too short. So I'd need to buy a longer one.
The opening above the jack point wouldn't be wide enough for the gear box.

The one I have is a 13". I bought it to use in the same way you watched in the video. But as time goes on I'm finding more and more uses. Like the circled area in Doug's car. It was brazed rather than spot welded. After getting the cutting wheel in as close as I could without nicking the primary material. I was left with a 3-4mm stub of brazed metal. So I cut that down with the belt sander. Nice and tidy. I also use it to knock the remaining tops off the spot welds after the outer metal is pulled away.

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I currently have 2 Astro 13" sanders. One at Rothsport, one at Forest Grove. They work as designed. But just a bit loud for the boys at Rothsport. They'd never done any kind of chassis prep in house before I came on board, it had always been farmed out. So when one of these give up the ghost I'll replace it with a quieter brand for the work at Rothsport. The 13" HF is the same design as my 13" Astros. But the quality just isn't quite high enough. I had one of those first. The belt tensioner came apart pretty quickly.

Here's a couple longer models from Astro.
http://www.astrotools.com/index.php/air-to...lts-80-100.html

Dyna file?

I'm thinking this might be the one ....................
The question being, how much width do I have 8-9 inches out from that last inside spot weld? We'll do some measuring on Thursday.

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http://www.cpojettools.com/jet-505752-r8-1...default,pd.html

https://www.mcmaster.com/#sanding-belts/=15cgogt

I would have used a carbide ball cutter on a 1/4" straight die cutter. I like the electric one from HF set on a dimmer for speed control. The ball cuts side ways. No angle needed. Faster than the dremel but the same idea.

Hmmmmm......
Another twist. I have an extended length die grinder. I'll measure that too on Thursday.

Doug's car is on the rotisserie so it's time to get after the jack points.
I decided not to clutter Doug's thread with this jack point removal conversation.
I started with the portion that is exposed on the rocker panel.
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I'm using what I call the Rick (rick 918-s) method when I can can discard the outer layer/panel. I've covered this before. But here's a little more detail.
The thing I'd like to add. When you get comfortable with the cutting disk on the mandrel.
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I cut down each spot weld with the cutting wheel like I've discussed before. But what I've learned over these many projects is too take it out in small portions. But you have to be real careful when making cross cuts in the outer layer. Sometimes I make a bowed portion to make the cross cut. You don't want to cut/damage the primary material.
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Don't put too much leverage on the screw driver. You can rip the spot weld out which would leave you an unnecessary hole.

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Had to bring out the big guns for the cut across the top of the jack tube. It allows you to use a sawzall blade.
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I went with Worn's suggestion of using an extended length carbide cutter.
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Air tool is a little wild. I might take a look at Worn's suggestion of the HF electric one.
But think I'll try the regulator that I use for paint guns for a start.

When I ran out of length I added a tube to the extra Steck spot weld cutter Doug bought for me.
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First couple popped off pretty easy. The inside couple took quite a while.
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I'll probably still buy the 24" belt sander. The 24" will be 1/2 inch wide which should just about cover the entire shelf. Nice finish

There's just a little tidbit right under the door jamb I couldn't get at with the 13".
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This one took about 3 1/2 hours. Next one should be faster if the rust is about the same.

Installing a Front Arch Fill In from Tuthill Racing on our G body rental rally car.
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Getting lots of practice ....... practice .................. practice
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Sunday Morning Episode of Dad's Garage .................

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Changed out the fuel pump on the Audi in the St. Johns Safeway parking lot.
It's under the passenger back seat. Fairly simple procedure.

I came out a couple weeks ago and did the diagnosis.
Power to the pump with ignition on. Pump no go.

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After the system pressurized she fired right up ...................

You can't take too many tools for a mobile repair.

It's my at home/AX tool box. It will probably go to Mexico in my Mexican 1000 service vehicle. Fit's nicely in the old Explorer. 220k.

Firm believer : More is Better

Things are kind of quite so I'd thought post a couple shots of my work on the rally cars at Rothsport.

Top car is an 81 SC, the rental car. Bottom is Jeff's personal 964.
Jeff's car is going back to the blaster for some rework.
They're really struggling with the seam sealer and undercoating. I'm kind of picky.

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I've started seam welding the SC.

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Tuthill steering rack stiffeners. 10 gauge. Pallet of FIA roll cages arrived Monday.
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Prodrive SCRS #7 is in the house. Because of my messy work it went under cover. It came in for some longer gearing. It was completely restored by Rothsport a couple years ago.

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Undercover ....................

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At this point the plan is to livery the rental car along the lines of the Rothmans. But insert Rothsport in place of Rothmans.

Mexican 1000 Press Release
https://www.excellence-mag.com/resources/events/33

This coming week at Rothsport.
Rental car heads to body shop to install new left rear qtr. panel and a Fenn Lane Motorsports sunroof delete panel.
Jeff's car heads off to have its FIA roll cage installed.
Hopefully this will allow me a few solid days to get Doug's car to the media blaster.

Lull between Christmas day events.

I thought I'd add some insight into the issues we're having with removing the undercoating and seam sealer on the 964's. It's kind of uncharted territory. Not too many 964's have been totally stripped down to a body in white. The G body was easily stripped with media and walnuts. Old School. But that stuff didn't make a dent in the 1/4" of undercoating on the 964's. We're thinking the folks that Singer uses bake the tub in the powder coating oven, then blast it. But they do not remove the seam sealer. I need the seam sealer removed so I can seam weld the spot welded seams. I even torch the seams with a MAPP torch before I start welding and I still pull impurities into the welds.

They quoted $3500.

So it takes lots of grinding with wire wheels and cup brushes to get the undercoating down and out of the seams. Doesn't set to well with the chassis room boys.

So were going to try an induction heating pad. Heat , scrape , heat & scrape.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/inductor-p...u3-p-13991.aspx

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXIk_1tmt8c

I'll let you can how it goes.

Have you considered trying some dry ice? You put it on the coating to freeze it and then scrape/chisel it off. It works well to remove undercoating, but I don't know how it will work on seam sealer. Same idea, though -- make it cold and brittle, and it pops off with little effort.

Rothsport had sent one out to the ice blaster in the past and it didn't do any better. So that wasn't tried again.

Hmm, okay then. Nevermind

I have heard of places that will bake the chassis to about 900 degrees F in a low-oxygen atmosphere. This is supposed to turn everything not made of steel to ash. That should take care of the seam sealer. Might be worth looking into.

Bill we saw that too. But we couldn't find anyone doing it on the west coast.
We demoed the Pro Max on Monday, it worked as described. It cooks a 4" * 6" area which then peels right off. Then move it along keeping the edge hot.
Jeff ordered one yesterday ..................

https://www.excellence-mag.com/resources/events/33

What isn't mentioned in the press release is that Jeff Zwart is on team that will be driving the second 964.

I'm probably too late to help you, but several years ago I had a BMW project dipped in caustic. Cost $1500 and EVERYTHING was completely gone; seam welding the chassis was easy.

Based on info we got, in portland it's around $3500.
Which wasn't an issue. 3 month waiting list was.
But we heard it still didnt get it all off a 964.

I haven't fell off the map. Super In Law and I are running a new #6 wire run for my new 80 gal compressor. Going from 10.8 CFM at 90. To 25.3 CFM at 175.
Should be enough to keep up with the blast cabinet. And make some improvements on the outside blasting.

Cary,
Are you running a Skat Blast gun rated for higher cfm? Just curious.
I have the higher rated Skat Blast and my 60 gal has a hard time keeping up.

Thx,

IR 2 stage compressor

That was my 1st Choice. But reading some of the reviews they seem to be having some QC issues. So I bought the NAPA equivalent.
Intercooler, after cooler, auto drain, low oil shut off. 600 rpm.
Heavy SOB. 720 lbs.

Time will tell if I made the right choice.
NAPA Simplex Industrial. $2600 delivered to my shop with a lift gate.

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/AAC82378VAT/AAC82378VAT
January's Monthly Special is $200 cheaper than December's.
Oh well, I wanted it in 2016's taxes ...................
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Mounted on isolators and up on 2*4's. Still want space for a drain pan.
Still need to hook up the three wires to the compressor. Then work on the plumbing.

We had a bitch of a time getting it lifted up. 720 lbs. and top heavy.
We finally drug out the HF cherry picker, it worked like charm. But I did scratch the end of the motor with the chain. I'm going have a box of nylon straps made to lifting with the cherry picker.

Plan is to match it up with this next spring ..................
https://www.texasblaster.com/index.php?disp...p;product_id=25

Tool pimp...

Do we have a jealous avatar?

Whoa .....................
Really quiet.

WHAT?? Can't hear you...shut off that air compressor!!

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Even though it was 20 degrees outside. It was a busy day at MiddleMotors (I finally decided on a business name).

Mark (914 Rubber) stopped by to catch up on things before lunch. Mike (Warpig) stopped by after lunch and finished bead blasting his tin pieces. Mark came back with Taylor in the afternoon and dropped off their rotisserie mounts for fitting and modifications.

New Episode of Tool Whore :
The Pro Max Inductor finally showed up at Rothsport on Tuesday, works like champ. Heats up the metal, then the 1/4" of undercoating peels right off with a putty knife.
The heating takes 4-7 seconds ...................
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Here's a shot of the primary heating pad. Runs on 110v.
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Thursday Jan. 26th.
Super In Laws out it the other room engineering the rotisserie mount for Taylor's project.

Matt from 914 Rubber called and asked if I could squeeze out the front control arms he'd dropped off some time ago. With the lack of time and space I'd put off a couple project requests from him. So figured it was the least I could do.

Nothing complicated. Just bring them back to life.
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Learned a couple things. #1. The control arms barely fit it my blasting cabinet.
#2. My shop press is too small for the back end of the control arm. #3. I need to purchase the next size bearing splitter/separator when I get a larger press.

Front ends pressed out. Back ends got lit on fire. Which kind of stinks the place up.
The flanges needed a little TLC.
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Called texted Matt and had him order a set of ER OEM rubber bushing. I'll also need at least one ball joint. Looks like one strut was cut off with a Sawzall.
I should add this is a set of control arms Matt bought off the internet to replace his that had gotten bent. So maybe we can pull the other ball joint off the old control arms. Or replace both while we have it torn apart. His call. I ordered a Porsche ball joint socket when I got home. I'd always just borrowed it from Jeff.

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Taking the control arms to RS to pull off the ball joints so I can finish up the paint job.

Be very careful when using the inductor. Keep the body as far away as possible from the working end. EMFE (Electro Magnetic Field Emissions) are no good for the human body. It is like working next to an open microwave oven. If it operates on 110V or 220V single phase be every careful, if it operates on 220V three run away from it.
Bill.

Looks like I'll get a two day break from the rally cars and get to work on Doug's door and valances.
Delivered one car to the paint shop. The other to ProFab for its FIA rally roll cage.

Doing a tune up on Matt (914 Rubbers) front control arms. Removed the ball joints at Rothsport. Then brought them to the shop and gave them 3 coats of Rustoleum.

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Looks like I'll be getting into the media blasting business out of necessity. 1. To keep projects on schedule. 2. To get it done the way I want and need.

Based on the info at Texas Blaster my new compressor should keep up.
Plan is to shoot a 1/8" nozzle at 80 psi using fine or #3 glass blast. Fine on paint only. Then switch to #3 for undercoating and rust.
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http://abrasive-equipment.kleenindustrials...edia/glassblast

Beings that this is Oregon I need to make provisions for liquid sunshine.
This is what I'm going to order. But I'll make the sides 8ft. tall.
https://creativeshelters.com/cutlist_by_sku?sku=KMTS1224BW

Time for a little catch up on the Rothsport Mexican 1000 race cars. First car back from paint is the Rothsport car. It will liveried on our spin of a Bastos rally car.
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A few shots of our FIA rally roll cage.
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After Richard Tuthill walked us thru the modifications he's made on his East African Safari cars. We made some severe modifications to the rear axle cross member. Richard has had one race cars blow the cross member completely out.
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Exterior oil filler.
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For making assembly a little easier, a full race LHD Tuthill wiring harness. It is a thing of beauty.
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Jeff working on the fire system.
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The canister above his hand is the inboard off-road air cleaner.

Spence welding in the supports for the electric power steering pump.
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Here's a picture of Josh finishing up the Tuthill harness behind the dash. The instrument hole in front of the co driver is for a voltmeter. The clock hole will receive a Rothsport clock delete panel and a VDO fuel pressure gauge.
If you will at the gauge cluster you'll see the yellow lines. The right red light is a traditional alternator light. The amber one has a factory RSR belt only sensor. Red light only, you keep going till the battery dies. Both on, you risk engine damage do to lack of cooling. But you can diagnosis from the drivers seat without taking your foot off the go pedal.
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Long throw down day. The Healy/Zwart car returned from ProFab (cage & chassis work) at 6am. We had it reloaded on the trailer at 6pm and on it's way to the paint shop. Right on schedule.

A couple more pictures of the Rothsport car.
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Dual master cylinder Tilton pedal cluster.

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Mocking up the off road air cleaner.

I just like this picture. The cars are getting electric power steering, so the old pump mounts are be trimmed off.

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We've been invited by Patrick Long to display the cars unwashed (Porsche style) at Luftgekühlt the weekend following the race. As of right now I'll being flying down and driving them back after the showing. But being low man on the totem that could change.