Get back from lunch and push her outside.

Got R' Done ................
Blasting down into the gas tank hole was the worst media flashback that I've had on the entire car. No where the media to go other ran right back at you.
There will still be quite a bit of seam sealer removal work to do.
Click to view attachment

Here's where the project should have started ...............
Click to view attachment

Oh yeah ................ the rain started at 2:45.

Now on to the better door. After close examination I'll need to do four patches.
I'm doing the cut outs a little different. I'm drilling a 3/8" hole in the top corners so I can cut with the air hacksaw. Not real happy with how straight I can cut with the saw, but it's ok. I used the hacksaw on the vertical cuts and the die grinder on the mandrel on the horizontal cuts.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Then I saw some rust creeping out from under the spot welded channel lip.
Click to view attachment

But I could get my hands up under the bottom of the channel. It was solid. So I used the edge of the die grinder on the mandrel to peel off the top layer of the channel.
BEFORE
Click to view attachment
AFTER
Peeled back and OSPHOed
Click to view attachment

You are really cooking! It has been subzero all the past week after a mild December. Finally cold-soaked the foundation of the attached garage so I get chilled there. So I have made a tactical retreat to the basement.
Discovery: you can treat masonite for new door cards with acetone-thinned epoxy for table tops. Goes on and soaks right in like shellac but is water resistant. It is a trick I started using for wood-turning hard/soft spalted maple. Soaks a long way into soft fibers
I have to do a bit of welding on the door in the same spot, but less than I expected.

Your attention to detail is superb! Nice patch work on those doors - that's a tricky area!

Terrific documentation and work.

Thanks for the words of encouragement ............

I was going to add. Be careful with the top edge. That's where I had serious issues.
Click to view attachment

I teach the new LTs to avoid the word "retreat" in their briefings unless they're talking about the bugle call while lowering the colors... I would suggest you use the term "retrograde" and for this particular instance "retrograded to a defensive posture".

Beautiful day here is PDX.

Super In Law went to work cutting and fitting the door patches ...........
While he was doing that Tool Whore went to work on some air line drain modifications. Built a new one for the blaster cabinet and new one under the racks in the big open shop. Then added 3 foot drain pipes to the existing drains.

Patch #1
Click to view attachment
Really pretty easy welding.
The right side welds are little too big. Buts that's caused by having to have a 2" wire lead. The Millermatic helps, but doesn't totally take care of it.
The big gap in the bottom of the channel needed a brass backer.
Click to view attachment
We left the channel run wild. I trimmed it on the yellow line after everything was welded into place and tidied up.
Click to view attachment

Patch #2
Not real happy with it. I should have bent the top a bit before I started welding.
Click to view attachment

Sabbatical Side Note for those that have been following along. The job I've been waiting for should be posted first part of the week ............... Things got held up a couple weeks for a couple different reasons. But we're back on track.

I think we'll start the day by switching to the roll of EasyGrind MIG wire that I bought. Not a lot of welding still do, but I'm sure I'll find some spots I want to strength and or touch up.

Oh yeah the Magic Bus is returning today to get its new heater cables installed.

Here's the tubes we fabricated for the heater cables for the Magic Bus.
Click to view attachment

Finished up the door patches. Had trouble with the grinding. I'm sure the pitting on the backside is causing the issues. Weak spots.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Corner was a bit of work. The channel is two layers and pitted so it was either too hot or too cold.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Blew thru this area about 5 times over grinding.

Click to view attachment

Ended the day with hanging the door in Super In Laws new fixture. This allowed me to spray down the inside with OSPHO. Drip drying over the old mat.

Click to view attachment

Here is my assortment of different types/shapes of brass.
Click to view attachment

On to the next task ................
After bead blasting the trunk I found some more disturbing rust. It is the portion behind the front pair of steering rack mounts. Yellow circles
Click to view attachment

CLOSE UP
The dark portion is the backside of the mount.
Click to view attachment

Mount pictures
Click to view attachment

This is a piss poor design. No Drain so the air could flow thru.
Click to view attachment

The ? is. Do we take the support off and make a big patch? Or cut out the portion between the spot welds and patch it? I'm leaning on the big patch. But that will mean creating some kind of jig for returning it to right place. I've got just the right guy for that, LOL.

I'll need to take off the tow hook and patch under it. And there's a couple tears/cracks that will need to be strengthened.

After closer inspection it did have a drain. It just didn't work too well.
Click to view attachment

Took a time out ..................

1. Bought some 6" steel wheels for the rotisserie. The 4" poly ones just take too much effort to get started rolling. The 4" ones will get moved to the body dolly.
2. Doing some maintenance on the PCA AX event trailer.
3. Installed my new SeatBelt Planet seat belts on my white car.
4. After rebuilding the door stays on the white car I decided to replace the door cam actuators. They just weren't strong to finish opening the door. Just a little to much flex as they were trying to push open the latch.

I've been under the weather the last couple days. But Saturday we're back at it.

I installed the new steel wheels on the rotisserie. Now one person can move it with one hand.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

While I'm doing that, Super In Law was converting our body jig into a bolt on body dolly.
We scavenged some legs off some old produce display tables years ago.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

These will be the legs with the old wheels bolted to the small tube on the bottom.
Click to view attachment

Here we are all finished up. Added ending 2/2/16
Click to view attachment

Another word of wisdom for those just getting into fabrication.

PLEASE cover all the glass on all your cars in the spray area when you you start to grind or weld. Those innocent little sparks will pit/melt the glass.
Click to view attachment

HF moving blankets are cheap.

After the rotisserie was finished I went after the rust holes in the spare tire well.
After about 3 hours I had one of the suspension mounts off without too much collateral damage. Only one of the spot weld holes went thru. The trick is to watch the color of the shavings. Generally they'll be a bit of rust between the layers. You'll see just a short blip of brown in the shaving. That's when you've passed thru the first layer.
Click to view attachment

Because of the tight fit I used a 7/64 HF drill bit to drill thru both layers of each of the spot welds I could see. Because they seam welded after the spot welding, a couple were hard to locate. I drilled some from the inside, some from the outside.
Click to view attachment

Getting the seam welds cut without too much damage was a bitch. Most was done with the air hack saw bent like a noodle. After taking the guard/guide off. This was after I made a many and as big of cuts as I could make with the air grinder on the mandrel.
I'm always thinking would the time I just spent be worth the money I would be paying or charging ............ three hours to get a part off without damaging the part ?
The problem was exasperated by the fact that there was a spot weld under the seam weld.
Click to view attachment

This is a shot pre bead blaster cabinet. The mount is solid as a rock. Measured 13 gauge. Was left in the OSPHO pan drying. The metal in the rusted hole gets pretty solid right close to the rusted edge.

The welding in of the patch will determine how I proceed. Completely rosette weld in the 1/4" spot weld cutter holes? Or fill in and drill a new 3/16 holes?

Decided to seal up the inside of the OSPHO'd door. I used the HD Eastwood stuff that I already had. Kind of messy, but should do the trick. I'll probably still seam seal the joint using my finger later. I'll wait till both doors are done.
camera lens must have had a smudge on it
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

I'll add a picture of the lap joint if I can take it

New season of Tool Whore ...............

Nike Hydraulics Dataliner 80 Frame Bench with homemade drive on rails. It was on my retirement wishlist (10-12 years out), but it fell in my lap. It came with a Blackhawk Quadri-Clamp.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

I have no intention of doing any frame pulling. Just a fixture to hold the tub in place when replacing longitudinals. For the short term it will give me endless hours of internet research time to figure out how I'll build the 6 or 8 tub mounting fixtures.

Cary,
Newbie question I know, but what is the thickness of the sheet metal on the doors, 22ga? I have similar issues to deal with.

What is going on with the job BTW? I worked in the grocery biz for 10 years while going to school....I do miss it sometimes.

Thanks!

22ga is about the same as HVAC ducting...


Its about 18ga.

What Andyrew said .................

As for the job hunt. Not really hunting. I still consider myself on sabbatical.
I'd like to have a signed job offer, but it hasn't come yet. Wheels of progress move pretty slow.
The process lost 30 days.
1. Negotiating a job change for the person I'm going to replace.
2. New boss took an emergency FMLA to care for his wife after surgery.

But thanks for asking ..............

* Switched doors on the engine stand and sprayed it down with OSPHO.
* Super In Law is working on the landlords lawnmower. He finally got it running. Looks like it will need a fuel pump dealy, engine vacuum diaphragm gadget.

Now back to the front suspension repairs.
Patch plate went in without too much of a fuss.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Decided to use the Clecos to hold it in place. Because you cant get your hand in behind the panel to hold it, it took two people. I almost bought a one man body shop in Montana years ago. So it kills when it takes two people to do something. What would I have done in that shop.
Yellow circled items are the business end of the Cleco coming thru.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Welding was a little tricky.
1. Dumbass used too much weld thru primer again. Should have taped off the welding surfaces and brushed those on after the sprayed on had dried.
2. Once again welding the 14 gauge mount to the 18 gauge tub.
Click to view attachment

Gooder as new ....................

Now to the other side ................

Cut out the hole from inside the trunk.
It looks like theres a second layer of metal. No, just a completely connected layer of rust. Chiseled it out with a screw driver and the air chisel turned down low.
Click to view attachment

Filled the spot blaster with glass and cleaned it up.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

To be continued. Letting OSPHO dry 24 hours

Welding didn't go too well. Didn't cut out a big enough hole. Edges of the hole were too thin and too much unseen rust under the edge.
Click to view attachment

But it cleaned up ok.
Click to view attachment

If I was to do it a third time I'd do it in two pieces. The area called out with the star gave me all kinds of trouble.
Doing it in two pieces allows for a complete refresh without removing the suspension mount.
Click to view attachment

On to the tow hook.

I was bound and determined not to drill thru with the spot weld cutter this time. Didn't make any difference I ended up cutting it all out anyway.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Didn't shoot a picture at the end of the day after I cut it out. I could have cut it a little close to the cancer hole. Patch will be easy.
Click to view attachment

We'll do a little work on the tow hook and transfer the tire tie down to the patch panel.

Patch might be a bit over sized. But that will make it easy to weld in.
Click to view attachment

Blip, blip, blip ............... Three blips then cool with air.
Click to view attachment

I'm really liking the EasyGrind wire and the Cubitron discs.
Click to view attachment

Prepping for the tire tie down.
Click to view attachment

Used self tappers this time. Too easy.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Moving right along ...............

Note : I really like the way the NAPA Weld Thru Zinc Primer sprays out, but its too thick. I need to find the UPOL product. They say it lays down just the right thickness.

Now time to install the toe hook. Used the Clecos this time .............

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Great Day ......................

Looking great there Mate!
Have an IPA on my behalf.

My middle son texted me yesterday and asked what I was doing today.

Answer : Pulling seam sealer from the front trunk. Boring
Click to view attachment

Pretty easy with the heat gun and the air scraper. Then come behind with a medium straight bladed screwdriver and the heat gun to clean out the seams.
Click to view attachment

* Super In Law found a dropped exhaust valve seat on lawnmower #2. Opened up the cylinder head, froze the seat for a couple hours and peened it back in. Kind of hillbilly.
But idea came off the Briggs & Stratton website.

But as I began to work on the seam sealer in the gas tank area I find my next major rust challenge. Looks like one of the POs did a fine temporary leak repair above the front trunk cable pull. In the close quarters blasting I thought it was just some of the POR15 work we did when we got the car.
Click to view attachment
Looks like a steel plate and some seam sealer/tar. Don't thinks its tar. It's set up pretty hard.

Here's what It should look like. From 74 2L over in next building.
Click to view attachment

Here's what the parts car looks like. About the same as the project.
Click to view attachment

Here's the cut out piece that I'll use as a pattern.
Click to view attachment

Consolation prize : Complete front trunk pull. Handle, mount and tube.
Click to view attachment

Another odd observation while doing the cutting. The parts car's front trunk seal channel is almost perfect, no rust blow outs.

We start the week with a beautiful day here in PDX. 60+ degrees and beautiful sunshine.
* Super In Law got the second lawnmower running. Still might have issues with the switch and starter relay.
* A while later I see him out at the trailer scoping out the frame bench.
Click to view attachment

I gave him a couple shots of the Celette fixtures to start thinkng about.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Plan is to give it a quick paint job before we bring it inside. I'll use implement paint from one of the farm stores. Orange for the bench. Ford blue for the fixture.

So the surgery begins. Kind of a tough spot to work in.
Click to view attachment
After cutting it out I should have left the hose hole intact. At the time it looked easier. I just couldn't get a good starting point with the air saw.

Click to view attachment
Lots of pitting from water being left laying in there. Which makes for tough welding.

Click to view attachment
I did run the piece thru the blast cabinet to clean it up.
The white 1" tells me were the hole is if I cut that portion off.

Click to view attachment
I'll finish up the rest of the seam sealer removal then take it out and blast the seams an the this area. Then we'll start the pattern making.
Should be another beautiful day ..................

I finished removing the seam sealer in the gas tank trunk. Doing so I did open up 3 holes that were hidden under the seam sealer that looked perfectly fine.
EDIT : Added a picture of rust holes that came out with the seam sealer. Circled in yellow. 2/10/16
This is right above the pedal cluster.
Click to view attachment

When we got back from lunch I put on my Big Boy pants and started removing the wiring harness. It's in the way working on our new rust hole. And it will make spraying the primer much easier. I should have bit the bullet earlier .............
It wasn't all that bad. Was hoping to save the snorkel, but my fuel line fittings made it too tough.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Here's a shot of the nut that holds in the glove box.
Click to view attachment

While I was doing that Super In Law was working on fabricating the patch panel.
Not quite done yet ............ but it should come together.
Click to view attachment

* Ran downtown to buy 5 new wheels for my rolling stool.

Then set about removing the steering column and the dash. This will give us more room for welding in our rust repair panel.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment
Plus it will allow me to do a better job of blasting and spraying epoxy primer.

* Rolled the car outside as soon we got organized and started blasting the trunk(s) and dash. Rain was scheduled to start around 1pm. Damn weather, it started at 11am.
I just about got it all. I'll still need to blast under the cowl.

Then we puttered on the two patch panels.
Here's a shot of the front trunk pull mounting area all cleaned up. We may start over and cut out beyond the bottom of the picture. The area in the box is paper thin. If I can get a nice weld on the weld called out with the area we might be able to get away with what we have already created.
Click to view attachment

Here's a couple new shots of the spot that was created/reveled by removing the seam sealer. It's right above the master cylinder mounting location behind the pedal assembly. I tried a smaller patch, made a frikking mess. Couldn't see where the end of the wire was.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Today, Friday should be a fun day.
Last night was the monthly Pelican PDX get together at the Taproom. Always a good time.

For those following along. My new job has been approved and should be posted any day. Based on what I've been seeing, I'm thinking Monday or Tuesday.
I did have a brief interview yesterday on a work from home sales rep position. Went well. They're looking into the being in Oregon ramifications.

Great work!

Good luck with the new job. I am looking as well, and there isn't much out there right now in my little corner of the IT world. Glad you have a couple of leads.

The patch next to the master cylinder went in without too many issues. I did have one stitch blow out a little. But it tidied right up with the next stitch.

Here's what it looked like after the welding was finished. Welds are a little proud. But I was still concerned about the condition of the metal. Maybe I could have been just a bit hotter but it tidied up pretty nice.
Click to view attachment

Here's the finished product.
Click to view attachment

Here's a shot of the backside. Down inside the gas tank cavity.
Click to view attachment

I decided that bigger was better when it came to patches. So I went back after the front trunk pull rust area.
Here's the new hole ...............
Click to view attachment

Then I needed to remove the spot welded flange that was left behind. Usually I go straight to the spot weld cutter. But considering how thin it was I decided to peel it off using my seam riper.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Here's where Super In Law ended the day with the patch panel.
Click to view attachment

Here's the next area slated for surgery after the front trunk pull is finished.
Originally I'd planned on just cutting out the rust and filling it with JB Weld. But my welding and metal fabricating skills have improved greatly. So I'm thinking I'll fix it the right way. Probably a mistake.
Click to view attachment

I did add it (both L&R) to the Restoration Design wish list on the vendor forum.

Yesterday was spent on my 911. I was getting it ready for the upcoming AX season.
Problem Area : Drivers door handle. Tough to open the door.
Super In Law continued with creating the front trunk pull area patch panel.

I start by welding in the rosettes that attach the patch panel to the fender. Holes were punched 1" apart with the HF flange/punch tool.
Click to view attachment

Other than the 4 rosettes under the trunk hinge the self tapping screw holes were backed up with brass.
Click to view attachment

Now the fun begins. Two hours of leveling over and over again. The old metal was in much better shape than I expected. Most of the time I was doing two stitches. Then letting it cool down to 100 degrees. Two stitches, etc .......
Click to view attachment

Weakest area was the edges of the old holes cut for the heater hose and the harness.
Click to view attachment

Still needs some grinding work in the circled area and on the back side. But it went together pretty well. The holes will need some additional fabrication tomorrow.
Click to view attachment

On to the windshield frame rust .......... Started on the smaller patch on the right side.
Click to view attachment

Created the patch using the shear and the shrinker/stretcher and a hammer and vice.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Here's the final product. The radius under the yellow will need to be moved forward a bit.
Click to view attachment

Now on to welding in the patch. I'm always paranoid when welding metal with this much degradation.

After spending quite a bit of time fine tuning the patch I finally had it ready for the first tack. That first tack put a smile on my face.
Click to view attachment

I thought I'd give you a shot of how I stitch. The wire tip is where I usually start. I start on the new metal, pull the puddle over to the old material then up to the previous stitch.
Click to view attachment

I did have one corner that blew out just a bit. But it tidied up with a couple more stitches.
Click to view attachment

Here's the final result before I get after it with the grinder.
Click to view attachment

But most of the day was spent housekeeping. First task was breaking down the a complete 2 Liter power plant that was taking up space on the floor. Removed the muffler and transmission. Then put it on the engine stand in order to remove the heat exchangers. No broken exhaust studs. Three did back out. But none snapped off.
Click to view attachment

My project will take a time out for a bit. Give you a break from my obnoxious daily posting. I'm going to do some sheet metal work on a World members car. At first glance. 1. Replace the rear panel in its entirety. 2. Replace rear portion on the rear trunk. 3. A little bit of work around both door handle pockets. 4. One patch panel on one of the rear fenders. 4. Quite a bit of hammer, dolly and shrinker disc work smoothing out some wrinkles. Prepping for epoxy primer. 5. I'll need to do some research on a couple rust spots on the outer portion of the upper long on the right side. 6. Replace one side of the inner lower firewall.
Click to view attachment

Thank you for taking the time to post all of the pictures! I really appreciate seeing all the details come together. Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming!

Spent the day finishing up the housekeeping.
1. Got the extra 2.0 power plant up on the third shelf. Yellow Arrow. Combination of chain hoist and ladder stairs.
2. Took down the never used hillbilly paint booth. Best laid plans of mice and men
3. Project car is ready to go. I'll check and see if the Member owner wants the work chronicled with a thread
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Finished up the right side of the windshield frame.
Click to view attachment

Covered it up with self etching primer for the short term.
Click to view attachment

Then we had a break in our record rainfall ..........
So I painted the car dolly with VanSickle farm implement paint. Sprays out real easy.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Super In Law was working on the patch for the left side.
Click to view attachment

While he was doing that I started working on replacement brass tubes for the e-brake cables. Here's the weapons I used.

1/2 inch tubing bender. A little too strong for the refrigeration tubing that I bought.
Click to view attachment

Flaring tool.
Click to view attachment

Flexible tubing bender.
Click to view attachment

Here's what I ended up with.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment
I'll probably buy a foot of stiffer tubing to redo the longer rounded one. The bender put a kink in it. Plus it should be another 4-5 mm longer, 188 -189mm.

I did get the small short left pipe brazed in. I had a little trouble figuring out the torch temp settings. Once I did, things went well.
Click to view attachment
The car is settings on its side on the rotisserie. I also created a new right side pipe. Added the 5mm. It will go in first thing in the am.