Then I start the carnage ................
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Full Version: Cary's 73 1.7 Rustoration Thread
Getting my moneys worth from my cutting wheels......................
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First I cut off the bottom ..............
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Still amazes me how crappy the workmanship was on that front clip repair
back in the day..................
Then I cut thru the first layer to remove the seatbelt nut .............
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What that shows you is what happens when you don't use weld thru primer.
What you see is that portion folded down after I cut only thru the first layer.
So I cut off a portion on the inner box layer. The rust was primarily isolated
to the bottom.
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Still amazes me how crappy the workmanship was on that front clip repair
back in the day..................
Then I cut thru the first layer to remove the seatbelt nut .............
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What that shows you is what happens when you don't use weld thru primer.
What you see is that portion folded down after I cut only thru the first layer.
So I cut off a portion on the inner box layer. The rust was primarily isolated
to the bottom.
Then you see where the day ended ................
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Cut out the rotten portion of the long wall.
I know some will say that I'm probably being too critical and should just Ospho and paint.
But I plan on using this car as my daily driver here in Portland. So with all of the rain here in PDX I don't want to have
to restore it again for another 20 years.
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Cut out the rotten portion of the long wall.
I know some will say that I'm probably being too critical and should just Ospho and paint.
But I plan on using this car as my daily driver here in Portland. So with all of the rain here in PDX I don't want to have
to restore it again for another 20 years.
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You can see in this picture our cheater bar.
Back 10 years ago when we were prepping the car for my son Robert.
We installed a portion of angle iron between the front wall and the floor crossmember.
It served us well. I haven't decided if I'll replace it with a stiffener kit or leave it for sentimental reasons.
You can see in this picture our cheater bar.
Back 10 years ago when we were prepping the car for my son Robert.
We installed a portion of angle iron between the front wall and the floor crossmember.
It served us well. I haven't decided if I'll replace it with a stiffener kit or leave it for sentimental reasons.
Here's a shot looking into the wheelhouse.
Whats the best practice of rustproofing this cavity?
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Whats the best practice of rustproofing this cavity?
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I have a simple question! Because of all the steel patchwork, is there any concern for an unequal weight balance in the vehicle?
Good question...........
We'll see when it goes on the corner balance scales.
The passenger side was done in the same manner so in that regards its balanced.
Both sides have the piece of angle iron in them.
We'll see when it goes on the corner balance scales.
The passenger side was done in the same manner so in that regards its balanced.
Both sides have the piece of angle iron in them.
10/26/2012
Stopped by HF to pick up consumables. Spot weld cutters, 7/64 bits and cutting wheels.
Took a look a set of shrinker stretchers gadgets. I need that to create a couple layers on the bottom of the driver side wheelhouse.
Then I headed out to the shop to tinker. I spent the evening filling in my overzealous spot weld holes. And drinking Ryan's beer.
Super In Law really has my 90 amp MIG welder dialed in. Had a great evening .........................
Stopped by HF to pick up consumables. Spot weld cutters, 7/64 bits and cutting wheels.
Took a look a set of shrinker stretchers gadgets. I need that to create a couple layers on the bottom of the driver side wheelhouse.
Then I headed out to the shop to tinker. I spent the evening filling in my overzealous spot weld holes. And drinking Ryan's beer.
Super In Law really has my 90 amp MIG welder dialed in. Had a great evening .........................
Stopped by a garage sale and found some new lights for the shop.
$30 each. Transformers are nice and quiet.
Didn't work much last winter. Didn't have enough light.
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$30 each. Transformers are nice and quiet.
Didn't work much last winter. Didn't have enough light.
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Now back to work .....................
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What have some some folks done to seal up the sail panel cavity so we don't get debris up in there.
This is looking at it hanging upside on the rotisserie.
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What have some some folks done to seal up the sail panel cavity so we don't get debris up in there.
This is looking at it hanging upside on the rotisserie.
Wow Cary,
Friends and family can no longer call it "Cary's Dungeon"
Next thing you know, one of those make-over crews from the cable channels will be hanging fru-fru curtains and gaudy sconces (sp?).
Quick man! Squirt some Dino oil on those bright surfaces
Note to self: Never let the kids stuff Playdough in the seams of my teener
Friends and family can no longer call it "Cary's Dungeon"
Next thing you know, one of those make-over crews from the cable channels will be hanging fru-fru curtains and gaudy sconces (sp?).
Quick man! Squirt some Dino oil on those bright surfaces
Note to self: Never let the kids stuff Playdough in the seams of my teener
I'm not getting too much flash rust. They've been sitting like that for about 4 months. Go figure.
But my compressor generates about a pint every two weeks. In Montana I only generated a cup every year.
That's why I built the paint tent. So I can roll the car in there and shoot epoxy primer as I finish up a section.
But my compressor generates about a pint every two weeks. In Montana I only generated a cup every year.
That's why I built the paint tent. So I can roll the car in there and shoot epoxy primer as I finish up a section.
The more I look at that drivers long. The more I'm thinking about changing it out. I have a couple members looking to see if they might have what I need.
If that doesn't come thru. I may rework a new RD passenger long. It wouldn't have the handbrake indentation. But it would be new and a correct fit. Thoughts ................
Super In Law bought a Lenco Panel Spotter at a garage sale yesterday. Got a hold of Rick and he gave me a couple hints.
Waiting for my new heater elements and contactor to show up from Better Engineering to finish up the parts washer restoration.
If that doesn't come thru. I may rework a new RD passenger long. It wouldn't have the handbrake indentation. But it would be new and a correct fit. Thoughts ................
Super In Law bought a Lenco Panel Spotter at a garage sale yesterday. Got a hold of Rick and he gave me a couple hints.
Waiting for my new heater elements and contactor to show up from Better Engineering to finish up the parts washer restoration.
Here's a picture of the panel spotter being tidied up and the connections checked.
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I decided an amputation is in order.
Heading to the shop to cut out the drivers long.
With what I've already invested in the restoration. It would be a shame not to do it right.
The monsoons have begun here in PDX so I don't know when I be able to finish the sand blasting. Kind of waiting till the floor pans come out.
I still have 2 members working on a couple driver long pieces. But if that doesn't come to be I'll do the RD passenger long flip over. I'm going to double check that a couple time before I cut. Wish me luck.
A little music, a little beer and some rain on the tin roof. Should be a relaxing day.
Oh yeah ............lots of sparks flying.
Heading to the shop to cut out the drivers long.
With what I've already invested in the restoration. It would be a shame not to do it right.
The monsoons have begun here in PDX so I don't know when I be able to finish the sand blasting. Kind of waiting till the floor pans come out.
I still have 2 members working on a couple driver long pieces. But if that doesn't come to be I'll do the RD passenger long flip over. I'm going to double check that a couple time before I cut. Wish me luck.
A little music, a little beer and some rain on the tin roof. Should be a relaxing day.
Oh yeah ............lots of sparks flying.
Well whats the going rate on a 3 1/2 hour surgery?
Went pretty well.
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A little cutting disk, a little new plasma cutter and a little air hacksaw.
Back end cut off.
Now to figure out what goes where.
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Went pretty well.
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A little cutting disk, a little new plasma cutter and a little air hacksaw.
Back end cut off.
Now to figure out what goes where.
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Now to disconnect the firewall/hell hole ....................
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Air chisel takes a little practice to use. It can tear stuff up pretty fast.
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Air chisel takes a little practice to use. It can tear stuff up pretty fast.
Now for the bad news. I didn't look at the passenger long close enough. The top and the bottom front corners aren't the same radius. 
So hopefully I'll be able to come up with a drivers long.
So hopefully I'll be able to come up with a drivers long.
Tomorrow I'll start on the passenger long.
Should go pretty easy now that I'm all schooled up.
Should go pretty easy now that I'm all schooled up.
Cary,
Who did you buy your spot weld drill bits from, and what's the cost?
How many shots do you get, in other words, before they are worn out...
Thx,
Dave
Who did you buy your spot weld drill bits from, and what's the cost?
How many shots do you get, in other words, before they are worn out...
Thx,
Dave
HF......................
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=7/64
The trick. Speed. They say high speed. They wish.
As you can see I use a De-Walt 12v to drill with. I use it in the #2 speed . The first couple holes are the most important. Don't push too hard.
To answer the question, I'd say maybe ten. But if I don't get a good cut on the first hole. Dump it. .40c each.
Chinese junk. But the Irwin bits aren't much better. I tried those too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=7/64
The trick. Speed. They say high speed. They wish.
As you can see I use a De-Walt 12v to drill with. I use it in the #2 speed . The first couple holes are the most important. Don't push too hard.
To answer the question, I'd say maybe ten. But if I don't get a good cut on the first hole. Dump it. .40c each.
Chinese junk. But the Irwin bits aren't much better. I tried those too.
Well decided against moving on to the passenger long.
Don't want to detach both sides at once.
I do have confidence in my measurements and bracing but I don't want to push my luck. LOL.
With that being said. I'm going to build a couple new door braces. This time with Hiem joints. I don't like what I see when its flipped over on the rotisserie.
Don't want to detach both sides at once.
I do have confidence in my measurements and bracing but I don't want to push my luck. LOL.
With that being said. I'm going to build a couple new door braces. This time with Hiem joints. I don't like what I see when its flipped over on the rotisserie.
So I moved on the recreating the bottom corner of the front inner fender where it ties into the long.
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Shows prior repairs from 10 years ago.
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Shows prior repairs from 10 years ago.
Here's where we start.
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This is going to take some creativity.
Some lap welds and some butt welds should get me where I want to go.
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This is going to take some creativity.
Some lap welds and some butt welds should get me where I want to go.
Using some of Mark's work as a pattern.
I'm taking a bigger bite. But the picture gives me a good start.
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I'm taking a bigger bite. But the picture gives me a good start.
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First attempt with the shrinker we made the apex of the corner too tight.
Won't give me a tight enough fit for spot welding.
That's were the day ended.
Won't give me a tight enough fit for spot welding.
That's were the day ended.
Holiday festivities are over. So we had a couple hours to head out to the shop.
So I decide to relocate my door braces to the inside of the door. Kind of a Jeff Hail location. That way I can have the door braces to adjust the distance and the door to measure the fit.
Oh yeah. Decided against the Hiem joints. The ones at the farm/horsey store had too much available travel.
Ended the night with needing a little more 1/2 black pipe.
So I decide to relocate my door braces to the inside of the door. Kind of a Jeff Hail location. That way I can have the door braces to adjust the distance and the door to measure the fit.
Oh yeah. Decided against the Hiem joints. The ones at the farm/horsey store had too much available travel.
Ended the night with needing a little more 1/2 black pipe.
Had scheduled a short vacation to work on the car. Hoping to get a good jump on things.
But after deciding to completely change out the long. Things aren't going exactly as planned.
So Super In Law is reworking the door braces and I'm finishing up the parts washer. Off this am to find a couple needle bearing for the rotating tray sleeve, the power washer store for some parts washer soap and the electrical supply for a new 12 hour timer for the heating elements.
Hopefully the parts washer will be up and running today.
But after deciding to completely change out the long. Things aren't going exactly as planned.
So Super In Law is reworking the door braces and I'm finishing up the parts washer. Off this am to find a couple needle bearing for the rotating tray sleeve, the power washer store for some parts washer soap and the electrical supply for a new 12 hour timer for the heating elements.
Hopefully the parts washer will be up and running today.
Great work 
makes my rust repairs look like a cake walk. ![popcorn[1].gif](http://www.914world.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
makes my rust repairs look like a cake walk.
The parts washer lives.
Have a small leak at the pump union. I'll reset that tomorrow.
Could see the table turning and hear the jet streaming water.
Heaters fired up. But didn't leave them on long enough to fully determine that they'll heat up 65 gallons of water.
Thanks Andy. It's ended up being a little more than I planned on. But it's all about building an Oregon daily driver. Lots of Ospho, POR15, Rust Encapsulator and epoxy primer is in the future.
Have a small leak at the pump union. I'll reset that tomorrow.
Could see the table turning and hear the jet streaming water.
Heaters fired up. But didn't leave them on long enough to fully determine that they'll heat up 65 gallons of water.
Thanks Andy. It's ended up being a little more than I planned on. But it's all about building an Oregon daily driver. Lots of Ospho, POR15, Rust Encapsulator and epoxy primer is in the future.
I guess its going to be a Popsicle. White with blue bumpers, wheels and rocker panels. The 914 mate to me Carrera 3.0RS clone.
Well the heater elements work great.
The turntable motor gave up the ghost after about 1/2 hour.
I'll stop by this little electric motor shop after lunch tomorrow to see what he can do. I can buy a new one on Amazon. So all is not lost.
It did work pretty cool while it lasted.
Changed my mind on the Heim joints. I'm going to build something like Chris makes. But mine will be inside the door. Welded a 7/16-20 nut on the inside.
The turntable motor gave up the ghost after about 1/2 hour.
I'll stop by this little electric motor shop after lunch tomorrow to see what he can do. I can buy a new one on Amazon. So all is not lost.
It did work pretty cool while it lasted.
Changed my mind on the Heim joints. I'm going to build something like Chris makes. But mine will be inside the door. Welded a 7/16-20 nut on the inside.
Clean up day at the shop. Hadn't really tidied up the place since taking apart the project.
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I did finally find the oil leak in the Cadillac. Probably had been there for 15 years. The oil cooler line coming off the filter flange was about an 1/16 of a turn loose. Drip, drip, drip. About a quart every 2000 miles.
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I did finally find the oil leak in the Cadillac. Probably had been there for 15 years. The oil cooler line coming off the filter flange was about an 1/16 of a turn loose. Drip, drip, drip. About a quart every 2000 miles.
Well getting back to it. Removed the engine tray we fabricated 10 years ago.
Now to get the right suspension console and engine mount ready to remove.
Removed the MPS bracket. That will allow us to get at the upper spot welds on the console.
Console looks to be in pretty good shape. A little pitted where we covered it with patches.
Can't get into the brake line bracket spot welds. That will have to wait.
The engine mount is going to be tough. Looks like it was removed and seam welded somewhere in its past.
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Now to get the right suspension console and engine mount ready to remove.
Removed the MPS bracket. That will allow us to get at the upper spot welds on the console.
Console looks to be in pretty good shape. A little pitted where we covered it with patches.
Can't get into the brake line bracket spot welds. That will have to wait.
The engine mount is going to be tough. Looks like it was removed and seam welded somewhere in its past.
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Woke up last night and read 18 pages of "engine console" search.
In doing so. I decided that the upper wheelhouse will not be removed. Its not that bad. Just need to tidy up a couple deep cuts I created when I removed the battery tray.
Was thinking the inner engine long might be saved. I kept looking at all the patching that everyone has done.
It would just take too many patches to get back to good clean steel. I have some really bad rust on the inner layer all the way up to the engine support. To me it's just too important to the structural integrity of the entire car to not change it. Hopefully my grand kids will be driving this car long after I'm gone. LOL.
In doing so. I decided that the upper wheelhouse will not be removed. Its not that bad. Just need to tidy up a couple deep cuts I created when I removed the battery tray.
Was thinking the inner engine long might be saved. I kept looking at all the patching that everyone has done.
It would just take too many patches to get back to good clean steel. I have some really bad rust on the inner layer all the way up to the engine support. To me it's just too important to the structural integrity of the entire car to not change it. Hopefully my grand kids will be driving this car long after I'm gone. LOL.
Installed the new door braces. Complete with Heim joints.
Works like a charm. Much better. Holds the setting, even upside down.
The 7/16-20 threads work real smooth.
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Works like a charm. Much better. Holds the setting, even upside down.
The 7/16-20 threads work real smooth.
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With the new braces installed and dialed in.
The frame jig was removed so I could get at the engine and suspension console.
Off came the engine console.
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As you can see it has some extra ventilation.
Another manufacturing error. Why didn't they seam seal the top?
You should have seen the debri that came out from behind that thing.
I guess its official name is, engine mounting.
I'm thinking that's it's repairable? I think I saw Mark rebuild one.
The frame jig was removed so I could get at the engine and suspension console.
Off came the engine console.
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As you can see it has some extra ventilation.
Another manufacturing error. Why didn't they seam seal the top?
You should have seen the debri that came out from behind that thing.
I guess its official name is, engine mounting.
I'm thinking that's it's repairable? I think I saw Mark rebuild one.
Next is the removal of the suspension console.
Can I get some hints and BTDT's on removing the reinforcements that are lapped over the front and rear suspension consoles?
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Can I get some hints and BTDT's on removing the reinforcements that are lapped over the front and rear suspension consoles?
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I also chiseled off the seam sealer on the outer fire wall seam in about 15 minutes.
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This was all done with the air chisel. A tool that Jeff Hail turned me on too.
First words of wisdom. 1. Don't cover up the vent hole with your thumb. Kills the pressure. 2. When you hear the tone change. Stop, you've hit a weld.
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This was all done with the air chisel. A tool that Jeff Hail turned me on too.
First words of wisdom. 1. Don't cover up the vent hole with your thumb. Kills the pressure. 2. When you hear the tone change. Stop, you've hit a weld.
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