Well we're finally back to working on the 914 rustoration. 911 is all set to go for the AX season. Seems likes its been a loooonnnggg time. For the PNW folks, I've been involved in the transition from Albertsons to Haggen. Its been a long couple of months.
Started the day by tidying up the shop.
Click to view attachmentEnded the day with the front edge of the front floor pan welded and tidied up. Quite a bit of fiddling to get it to line up perfectly.
Next time suggestion, I would make the cut/seam to the tub be all up on the top/flat surface. Passenger side looks tidy, Drivers side I was down in a dip and couldn't really tidy to the weld as much as I like. As for the fiddling. It was relatively easy work. I never welded more than an inch after I had all my tacks in place.
Click to view attachmentAs you can see I have the rest of the pan all screwed into place. Ready to go for tomorrow. I finally feel like we're making progress, man what a feeling. I left the shop with huge smile on my face.
Oh yeah, it's really fun welding on NEW RD metal. I only ran into a couple thin spots when mating up to the tub. All it takes is a little bump down in heat, I mean a little. My MillerMatic 180 has settings for metal gauge. So lets say I'm operating at 17.25 on the dial. I'll bump it up to 17.50 -17.65 and puddle the hole closed. But for that front seam I've been running in the mid
17's. But that's not seam welding, its stitch welding. Maybe three puddles max. Man do you want to keep going. But your putting way to much heat in one spot.
Take your finger off the trigger. Clarification on the Caryism ........... Down in heat means up in metal gauge on the dial. I'll shoot a picture on the dial tomorrow.
I didn't weld in the pedal support yet. I wanted to get the seam welded first. You can see on Adam's RD floor install video you'll need to elongate the hole in the pedal support just a smidgen to get the pedal support to align correctly. Mine was exactly the same.
A word of wisdom, when you lay the pedal support on the pan to draw where to drill the holes. Draw the hole about 1/2 the width of the stud towards the fire wall. That compensates for the angle. A Habor Freight step drill bit was real handy for drilling the holes.
If you've keep up with the entire thread you can kind of figure out that I'm kind of fixture/tool/gadget whore. We built a jig to hold up the floor because the inner bottom firewall has yet to be installed. Tunnel is still loose. Seems to have worked great. Built two. One for the front, one for the back. It was made out of an old bed frame.
Click to view attachmentMight stop at the paint store and buy some spray on seam sealer for the other new toy that I've never used.