The back half of the trunk came off real easy. Then I decide to do it right, the muffler heat shield needs to come off. There's no way to get things cleaned up right with it in the way.

First thing to do is locate the spot welds.

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Came off pretty easy. Next time I would use 3/8" spot weld cutter. The 1/4" I usually use was too small.

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[[/quote]
On mine since i was replacing the rear trunk back section, I cut the heat shield standoffs out at the trunk side and left them attached to the heat shield.
On re-assembly, i used SS pop rivets to reattach
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Started the day at Newberg Steel for some 12 gauge scraps to create the suspension tie. $6.84.

Here's a couple shots of the right side. Still complete. We'll use it as our pattern.

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Here's the King of Cardboard getting after the pattern.

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Now we're getting somewhere. Heading to lunch to let it dry.

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Super In Law spent the entire day working on the upper/smaller tie. The 12 gauge is a little tough to work with. He's trying to create it one piece. Our equipment just isn't heavy enough.

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Not quite ready to weld in. I think we'll build the other one two piece.

So I kind of spent the afternoon puttering.

1. Filled a few spot weld cut outs on the outer suspension mount.
2. Finished a couple welds on the tabs that attach the door sills to the base of the hinge post.
3. Then went to tackle the holes on the front pan under the headlight bucket. I was feeling good about my welding touch. So I elected to weld up the holes.
They about doubled before I hit good solid material.

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4. Then I broke out the tube seam sealer and sealed the gap between the door sills and the outer long.

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Pretty easy to do when the car is upside down.

5. Then I located and screwed the jack plates in place. Ready to weld in tomorrow. Looks like I'll need to add some drain holes. I"ll probably put two on each one.

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Make sure you weld the square tube in place before the cover plate..

I gratefully request you to post pictures of the ties before you weld them on. Thanks

Will do. Stopped by the dealership this am.
All four parts are NLA. So fabrication is the only answer.
The 12 guage is over our paygrade, wish we had a forge. So the big ass hammer is the tool of choice, leaves it kind of ugly.

Started the day with welding in the jack posts.

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Super In Law finally finished the upper tie. A little crude, but it will work.

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He built it a little bigger than the factory one on the other side. I predrilled 5 rosette holes. Then it was ready to weld.

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I know its over welded. But I just can't help myself. I just love melting metal. LOL.

I drilled a drain hole thru both layers. I also opened up the drain on the suspension console.

For working with 12gauge, I don't consider that crude at all. I'm dreading having to make them in the coming months and almost wonder if doubling up 18 or 20 could accomplish the task.

After a couple other family automotive issues we got to spend the afternoon back on the car.

Super In Law (Grandpa Jack) went to work on the suspension console tie.
It was created in two pieces like the one on the web hypertext.

Test fit .............

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As far as I got welding before it was time to head home.

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I decided to dissect the crappy patch job on the right front fender.

Starting point.

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Kind of hard too see because of the steel color. But I cut it out in 2 pieces.That made it easier to get at the back of the spot welds.

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Then I made my Ed (Wheeler Dealer) pattern. That technique comes in real handy.

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Went to my sheet of 18 gauge. Laid the tape on the steel and cut it out using my HF shears. I hate to admit it but the HF one cuts better the our Old Milwaukie pair.

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Then on to welding it in.
I could have used 2 or 3 of these. The pair I have are too small for the right side. The 4" ones worked great for the left side.
http://www.cometsupply.com/mp/IRWIN/pm/IRW...6bCgaArxg8P8HAQ

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Looks like I'm on the right track. Taking my time, cooling with air, moving all around the piece. The bottom piece is kind of crappy. As you can tell from the holes blown thru it.
I think I'll hold off on the grinder until I'm finished. I'm a little grinder happy

I'm challenging myself to be able to put my cut off fenders back on without a huge amount of filler. Using Jeff Hail's example as my goal.

That's purdy. And your suspension ties look about as good as the factory ones on mine.

Excellent work as usual!

Those console ties look great. I found them to be a challenge to fabricate as well & ended up doing each one in three sections.

Keep on truckin!

Thanks for the words of encouragement.

I think I'm going to add another piece to the top.

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Another day at the shop. I would call this one a so so day.

Started by finishing up the welding in of the suspension tie. Just for fun I decided to give the Millermatic function a try. On the 12 gauge stuff it worked like a dream. Unbelievable.

I should have tightened up my E's to stack the puddles a little tighter.

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So I decided to try it on the front fender is was working on. BIG MISTAKE. I blew a hole with the first weld. It went form bad to worse. Today was a turd. I had visions of grandeur of getting it welded in perfectly with invisible welds.

Now that I now where the crappy steel is. I'll cut it out AGAIN and do it over.

While I was cussing up a storm. Super In Law was creating a new end cap for the long/rocker panel.

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Once the welds are ground down I'll seal things up with brush on seam sealer. Then we'll spray it with 2 coats of epoxy primer. Then we'll apply spray on seam sealer.

While he was finishing the end cap. I welded in the patch on the bottom of the fender.

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Lovin' it.

Another episode of Tool Whore

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Ran across this manufacturing oven while looking for a frame rack. Building a powder coating oven was one of our next projects. This will give us a good start. Its about the same size as our wall oven here at the house 19*15*18.

I still want to get a frame bench before I restore my 911. So I keep an eye out on Craigslist every once in a while. I've conceded the fact that I'll never be able to find or afford a Celette.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-CELETTE-SEVEN...512&vxp=mtr

I'm most interested in the table and pinch weld mounts. I know I'll have to create my own shock towers for both a 914 and 911. The search continues. I low balled a price on one in Seattle. Pissed the guy off. We'll see if he comes back.

Left front fender round two. I cut out the section again. Just didn't like it.

A shot of the cut out. Then a shot of the patch all set up and a couple opening tacks.
Last grind on the right side was a bit too much. Wish me luck. Plan on backing every tack with a brass backer.

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I thought I should go into a little more detail on the patch panel. We used the cut out section as the pattern. Dah. But we needed to create the folded over seam edge for strength. So I decided to use the air flange tool to start the fold. Then moved to the metal brake to bend it. Then we flattened it with a hammer. Then we finished it off with the 12 ton press. Using the blocks that come with the press to sandwich the patch.
So next we needed to create the radius in the fender. Once again we used the cut out section as the pattern. Ground the double edge down to match the pattern. Then welded the edge closed. Ground the welds down to bring in back to a finished edge. If needed I'll use All Metal to final finish the edge.
That isn't a very good shot of the fender edge. You see the hinge post in the background making it look like I left the welding.

Below is the flange tool.
http://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP207AL

Slow and steady wins the race....................

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The day went real well. I took my time welding it in stitch by stitch. A couple spots got a little too hot. But in the end it went in relatively flat.

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I'm a little paranoid on over grinding. Thins the metal too much. I'll use All Metal to smooth out the imperfections.

New Episode of Tool Whore .............

Magnetic Welding Backer from TP Tools. Worked great. Keeps the back real tidy.

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Then I bought a bottle of cooling gel. Its working good too. Not sure how it works. But it does.

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Then on to adding the rocker panel channel. I cut off the rotten portion earlier.

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Super In Law created the piece.

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So have cut off wheel will travel. Off came the bottom of the fender. Trimmed the new piece to fit.

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Then back to stitching. Once again took my time. Used the backer to absorb the heat.
Used the cooling gel to knock down the temp.

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Gave it a couple passes with the DA.

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Todays task will be finishing the fender.
Yellow squiggles will get a little bit of All Metal.
Looking back I should have flipped it over when I welded the upper line. It's not flat enough. That's the lower line in the picture.
There is a good sized dimple in the middle (circle). It's perfectly smooth So I'll try and shrink that out. I knew that it was there when I started. But I didn't to hammer on it.

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Here's where I was at after the guide coat was sanded off. This was done after some reworking with the shrinking disk.

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Here's where I ended the day. The circled area is the last low area.
What you see is the skim coat at 80 GR. Other than the one low spot. She is silky smooth.

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Super In Law went to work on the cover for the inner hole on the bottom of the targa bar. This is up inside the fender. We're going way beyond what the factory did.
Below is the opening.

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Making the pattern. I think this is version #4. The others are on the floor.

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Cardboard pattern installed. We're going to drill drain/vent holes of the metal piece.

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Last work day for this vacation. Forecast is for 76 degrees. We'll push it out and do some more bead blasting to get the inner fenders cleaned out. And finish up the rear trunk. I hope get everything epoxy primed before it gets cool.

I'm having an open house with a group of my Pelican 911 buddies tomorrow. If anyone is interested in stopping by PM me. 11am - 2pm.

Got most everything blasted until I wore out my HF Deadman Valve.

I got the fender almost finished. Once everything was smoothed out I found a high spot dimple from one of the back side welds. Dammit ........

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When I was sanding I opened up another thin spot along the rolled edge. Pretty scary. It would gone thru the paint in a few years. There's one on other side. I'll shoot a picture today after I open it up with the pick.

Nice work guys! I swear I could give you guys a piece of Swiss cheese and you could make a Porsche from the pattern! I am old enough to be a super in law but lack the skills. Sigh.

Quick edit: that incubator /heater is a piece of lab equipment, the twin of which I walk by regularly. Pricy new.

Quite a few popping up on Craigslist. Should be fun.

Here' s what I was talking about. Short of a NOS fender I don't know how you'd completely protect yourself from the inside out factor. This is the same thing you see on the bottom edge of the door skins.

I'm going to make an attempt at soaking it with OSPHO for starters. I know starting with a better car would help for starters.

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I opened it up with the edge of the die grinder. Forgot to shoot a picture, folks started showing up. I might start a thread just on this subject.

Another episode of Tool Whore :

Those of you that use Rustoleum for rust protection. You know that the cans Rustoleum uses don't have the noozle clearing feature. Turn the can upside and vent till it blows the paint out of the nozzle. When I remember, I drop the nozzle into a cup of lacquer thinner. Then blow out with air.

But I searched the web and found a 10ct bag of replacement nozzles. $10. Much more better.

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Time to catch up on things .............

1. Finished glass bead blasting the paint off the fenders.

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2. Blasted the removed rear fender portions. Then I OSPHO'd the front and back. Focusing on the pitted inside.

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3. It was time to spray some more epoxy primer.

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I welded the cut out fender edge. Waiting for one of the horsey people to leave so I could paint. New Lexus ES 350.

Picture to follow.

Got one the jack points welded in.

Picture to follow.

I'm going to be so busy reading/watching every one else's build off projects work will probably stop on mine. LOL

Seriously, I'm thinking of taking a time out. Switch over to stripping the paint off my 73 2.0. Doing a little rust repair and re paint it in time from WCR. The car runs and drives so well. Its a shame it doesn't look better.

Just strip, rust repair, exterior paint, new windshield and a new carpet.

I decided to redo the previous work on the bottom of the right front fender.
Like the left side, I cut out the section that was over worked and rusted.

Here's were I was at after I removed all the rusted layers.

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Tried filling in as many of the gaps and bumps that I could.
All sealed up. Tough going. Pretty beat up after removing all the old welds.

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Ended the day spraying a little more epoxy primer.

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Stopped by the paint store and ordered some 2 part Fusor seam sealer.
Both direct to metal brush on, and a dual tube that is applied after the epoxy primer has been applied.

Lookin good!

Decided to tackle reinstalling the right fender portion.

Millermatic 180 set on auto .23
Voltage set about 21 gauge/2

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New clamps set up. Pretty cool. They let you level the panels flat.

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Ready set go ...........
Maybe it should have been just a smidgen hotter.

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Taking my time. Stitch is real quick, not generating much heat.

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It really went pretty smooth.

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Maybe a little over zealous linking the spots together. Hindsight, I should have been a little hotter.
But I had to take it up to 22 on the formed fender lip. Blew a couple small holes.

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In the end, just a little disappointing. The weld created a ridge. Too hard to shrink with my 4" shrinking disk. Might look at getting a rose bud for the torch. I wish it was a 32 Desoto, there'd be enough steel to grind it smooth.

Back with the tools of the trade. I'll get it. Inch by inch.

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While I was working on the back fender Super In Law was working on the front patch.

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Onto installing the fender patch. It took quite a bit of fiddling to get a nice fit.

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Welding went much better. I have one low spot on the weld.
I used the shrinking disk on the back to pull it back up. Got most of it. I'll probably try some more when I get back to the shop.

I spent quite a bit of time working it with a hammer as I was welding.
Maybe I didn't cool it enough when I was grinding down the welds. I'll keep trying to get this figured out.

Doing hammer and dolly work around the weld is a PIA.

I think I'll try a straight edge as I finish the next butt weld.

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Ok, I think I have it figured out. I think the warpage is always in a spot where I have a blow out. My mistake is filling the hole right then. I'll try walking away and filling it in tack by tack after letting every tack cool to room temp. Plus I'll start using the infrared temp gun to check the temp, rather than me hand.

Here's some good ideas .............
http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread....t-it-!!!

use your compressed air to cool ...your almost done

My bad.
I didn't mention that I go straight to the air nozzle after each
tack. Have a special magnetic loop to keep it real close.

Now we'll start the left rear fender.

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The adjustable butt weld clamps are pretty trick. Lots of time flipping them over to get a perfect tight fit.
Like I mentioned above I used the straight edge to measure the surfaces.

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I also removed the clamps after I tacked both sides. Which allowed me use the body hammer to keep things flat.
Sorry to say, I had one blow out right in the middle. Like I thought, this caused a slight warp.

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Stacking the welds went much better. I used the edge of the heat ring as my starting point to pull new tack into the old.

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I think it took me about 3 hours. The blow out took 5 or 6 tacks to fill in.

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Markers show the low spot. The rest went reletively well.

On to grinding. I use the edge of the cutting disc to grind the top off the weld.

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I cut about 2 inches at a time. Depending on the thickness of the weld I stopped about 1/2 way through and cooled with air.

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Then I finished the grinding with a flapper disc.
At the end of the day I have one low spot above the weld I just can't pull up.

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I still have tendency to over work it. I don't want to have use too much body filler

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The remaining bare metal on the exterior of the fenders was cleaned with wax and grease remover.
It's ready to get sprayed with epoxy on the next work day. Hopefully it will stay warm enough.

One of my favorite build threads! Like a good book, I hope it never ends.