To confirm the early 924 gauge seems to be a perfect swap-out. Same size, same warning lights needed. Still need to verify the fuel gauge but I can always use the 914 one. I'll see if the Subie water temp sender is in any way compatible but if not the 924 sender is super cheap.

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3m has an adhesive remover - I think these might be it

http://www.premiumboatcare.com/3m-adhesive...channelid=FROOG

or

http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-1729...mp;gclsrc=aw.ds

jim

Thanks Jim!

Way to go, Chris. I wasn't aware that the OG engine was still in the car! Did you sell it? I went a different route and sold mine first so that I couldn't "chicken out" when the going got rough. Glad you are back on track and staying ahead of me so that I don't have to figure this stuff out by myself. In fact, your recent post on the flywheel bolts was perfect timing. Chris, where on Nasoic did you find the section on transmission/clutch cross referencing? BTW, thx for the Bremmer link. Got that done last nite, sans the spool itself. Keep up the good work!

Thanks Kent!

I didn't sell the engine yet...probably should have.

On the clutch thing I just did a bunch of searches and found people complaining about how they had the wrong clutch....what year and model is your trans?

BTW that spool nut needs like 95 lbs of torque. And you use the thicker washer when you reinstall (there are two when you take the nut off between the gear that is removed to lock the diff).

And have you figured out the cable shifter thing yet? Still intimidated by that.

Kent, I checked your thread and it looks like the KSB03 is the clutch kit you need. I would do a search on NASIOC in the transmission section for 2003 WRX and KSB03 to be sure it's the right one. If it isn't no doubt you will find someone who installed it and it chewed up the disc. I think its correct though. Buy the whole kit if you can, apparently the pressure plate is not worth reusing. EXEDY is the OEM I think, seems like the one the Subaru guys like.

Wow, thx Chris, Good info. I walk on egg shells when on Nasioc. Get flamed in a second there. Whilst on the subject; I found a Suby board that is on keel with this site. Smaller but very friendly and eager to assist. It's USMB. "Ultimate Subaru Message Board". As far as the cable shifter. I'm looking forward to that part. I should get my shifter this week and will start this week or next. Have you ordered cables yet?

Yeah TELL ME ABOUT IT re NASIOC! Sheeesh this board is so polite compared to that one. I posted a couple of questions that they must have thought were so stupid they didn't even reply with a smart a$$ remark! Thanks for the link to USMB!

No I haven't bought cables yet. Where did you buy yours? I'll just buy the same ones and copy what you do!

Haven't ordered any yet. My MR2 shifter should arrive in the next day or two. I'll be able to size those once I get the shifter. I'm more interested in durability than price but I'll keep you in the loop as soon as I get it. I'll probably get flamed at Nasioc for my stupid starter question. Do you remember a thread where indexing the starter was discussed? How much ground clearance do you have on your exhaust at it's lowest point?

chris

looks like zaney is possibly the go to guy for the shifter as he managed to recreate the design in dbcooper's car which appears good to me.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=94994

jim

Kent,

I'm using an Accord shifter and I am definitely looking for quality and durability over price as well. No skimping on this one.

Are you using aftermarket starter or something? If you use a stock starter you shouldn't need to shim it. My stock starter is hitting the trunk floor...might gave to go aftermarket myself. Don't remember any indexing threads but Bob would probably know. He used a high torque aftermarket one as I recall.

I got the engine test fitted yesterday but the exhaust isn't in yet. I'll get it installed tomorrow and measure it and take some pics. I was worried it wouldn't fit but it looks like it will. Have to take the mount bar off to get it in.

Jim,

Thanks for the link! How did I miss that awesome build? So it seems like once again I am making it harder than it is....so the top able is up down, the bottom is left right....is it really that easy?

Here is the starter and shifter I'm using. No problems with clearance using them.
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Bob

Thanks Bob! No clearance issues because you are a master craftsman. Looks like the same starter I am using. I'm gonna have to ding my trunk floor a bit. It's the solenoid that is hitting.

Which starter is that, Bob? Source, price?

Its a stock Subaru starter for a 2005 2.5 RS with manual transaxle. I'm sure it fits other Subarus. I got a rebult one off Ebay for $39 with shipping.

Bob always finds the deals...

I think I'm going to shim my cradle a bit to lower the engine and trans an inch so the clutch fork and starter will clear. The trans stub is a little higher than parallel so it should be fine.

I was told that one does not want the axle to be perfectly square to trans, cause then the cvs don't lubricate as well.

Good to know thanks Jim! The trans stubs are a little forward of the wheel axle so they won't be straight on.

So im haveing a little problem getting the wire pics to upload? I think its the home internet. I will try again tomorrow.

jcl

Some of the conections at the ecu are spliced just to shorten. It is pretty straight forward. keep the diode, subarus wont run with out it. (can be pulled for a start kill).
out put wires are:
big yellow= battery +
blue = fuel pump +
blk/wht = ign+
blk/yellow = starter crank
red/yellow = check engine
yellow small= tack signal
yel/red = vss/speed sensor
ornge = back up power/ bat+
yel/black,yel/grn= ecu power out(fans)

I left the pics huge so you can click and zoom in. hope this helps.

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Thank you Jeff!!!!!

Hey Jeff,

I'm not recognizing the two plugs arrowed below. Any idea what they are for? I have separated the engine harness from the main one but those two plugs weren't part of it I don't think. I still have the whole wiring harness so should have them somewhere if needed...

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Black = blinker fluid reservoir, low level sensor
White = muffler bearing wear sensors (L & R)




Looks like you're making good progress, Chris

Thanks Mark! I'm thinking these are wires I have in the harness but I cut the plugs off. Not the fun part for sure. Jeff's pics are extremely helpful! Hopefully he recognizes these last couple plugs.

Guess where I found this? Page 5. Either you've been too busy working on your car or you've been neglecting it. I thought it my duty to bring this back to page 1. So I read in another post you are re-using the OG 914 CV's?

Yes I need to update this....I'll get to it tomorrow. Got a lot done actually and my engine is in. I'm sure it will have to come back out for some reason but it's in for now.

I did reuse my CV's but my setup is different than yours..only use 914 CV's on the outers.

This was an EXTREMELY helpful how-to guide...

914 CV Repacking

It's messy to repack them...verrrrry messy. Plan on throwing the shirt you wear away and whatever gloves, rags and stuff you use as well. You can tell very easily if your CV's are still good or not. The guy even shows an example of a bad one. And there is an extra set left over for when I break one later...

That's my CV configuration too, bus CV's inside, weaker 914 CV's out. The thinking was that I'd keep the 914's as the intended weak link, a "fuse" to protect the more expensive transmission. Well, I've blown that fuse three times already, and I can say that it isn't that easy to get to all the shards of the outer CV's out of the trailing arms after they've exploded and the screws are sheared off. I still like the idea of an easily replaceable fuse protecting the drive line, but sometime soon I'll convert the outers to 944's so I have a better chance of breaking the inners. Just a heads-up.

I dropped a greasy exploded CV onto a yellow t-shirt while under the car, made an abstract shape right in the middle of the chest. Wouldn't wash out so I took a sharpie and framed it, then signed it illegibly, as art, and now wear it proudly when I mow the lawn.

Yeah I'm thinking the same thing. Once the first CV blows I am moving to 944 outer CV's. My inner CV's are actually Subie, so that makes the "fuse" even more vulnerable. If I ever updated this thread it would be easier to see that!

Dropping a CV full of greasy metal would make quite a mess! I threw 4 pairs of Harbor Freight gloves away myself...and left fingerprints on everything in the garage. Had to wash most of my tools with Simple Green!

Can't wait to see some pic's. What is your ground clearance? An epoxy coated floor helps some when it's time to clean up the grease.

OK Kent, here you go!

These wheels were the best things I ever did to the car

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The passenger side is a little tight...might have to roll it.

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View from the back..note the exhaust system Bob made...the mufflers will be totally hidden when the valance is replaced. Tips are a bit high because the mount is slightly different but easily fixed with some heat...

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The lowest point of the car has 5 inches of ground clearance... I had to cut the mount bracing to fit the headers but will replace before driving the car.

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Ordered the radiator...it's 31X11...anyone want to guess the crazy idea I have for it?

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From the top:

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To do:

- cooling system
-cable shifter (Kent did you order your cables?)
-fuel lines
-complete the engine wiring harness (almost done)

While I agree it would be great to fit the rad in the rear... Water is heavy. Pivoting a heavy radiator as an engine lid is fraught with peril.

Engineering a pivot point that will allow a HOT radiator to open so you can access the engine will be a challenge.

The ability to remove all the air from the system will be critical. Think about designing a self bleeding system. This will require a holding tank "T"ed into the water pump suction line. A bleeder valve (smaller Orifice than the radiator hose) at the highest point will spill into the holding tank. This can be a modified overflow line at the radiator cap. So as the system is pumping, the air will dump into the holding tank. Water in the tank will displace the air. Most German cars since the 70's have a system that works this way.

Good Luck!

Thanks Mike! Very thoughtful comments. It's just a crazy idea until the radiator gets here. Might not work but the rain tray is thicker than the radiator so who knows? I did buy a couple of reversible 10" fans so I have the option to blow the air out of the engine bay if I go that way. In speaking with Bob last week I think I will need a self-bleeding system either way so the cost to try it is really just a few feet of radiator hose...thanks for the explanation. As usual I was over-thinking the requirements.

If it doesn't work I always wanted to use the Cherokee radiator anyway. Should fit very well up front.

Wow! Look's great. Your way ahead of me Chris. I haven't ordered cables yet. I have a mock order but I am holding off until I can get my oval exhaust piece fabbed. It would be a costly and unnecessary expense to find that I needed to reroute. I'm 5.25" clearance for now. The bottom of those plastic diffusers are the same and they never would scrape so I think we're good. BTW, hope to get those exhaust pieces fabbed this week. I don't know if I can be of any help in that our measurements will be different because of our shifter differences. Great progress Chris.

Edit: those wheels look great and you have a beautiful car.

Thanks Kent! Yours is going to turn out awesome as well. Just keep in mind I didn't have to fabricate an engine/trans mount. You'll catch up for sure. On the cables Bob (as usual) gave me a pretty good idea of how it works. The shifter has to be modified slightly but that's OK. I'll focus on the fuel lines next. Bought a Walbro 392 pump (stole the idea directly from DBCooper) and will put it in the stock location. You can ditch the stock 914 fuel filter since the Subie one resides in the engine bay and is much larger.

You can run straight exhausts? ... no cross-over needed?

Looks great so far

Yes there was some debate about that a while back but yes you can on a flat 6er.

I'd love to have an SVX in the Westy camper, but as age creeps up, I think more about fuel economy. I think the CARB approved 2.2L is all I'll be doing when it comes time.

Mark have you joined the Yahoo Subaru Vanagon Group? If not you really should do it today. Lots of really cool info.

Linky

SWAP IT!!!! Also before you decide against an SVXANAGON watch this vid:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCO4I4Am8x4

So I open my fuel tank...the GREAT part is that the thing is clean as can be inside...looks new....the funny part....looks like I'm not the only DAPO! What's this?

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Looks like an old wash cloth! I picture someone's wife coming into a garage about 20 years ago and asking, "Honey where did you set that wash cloth when you were done with it?"...guy responds with "Ummmm....dunno sorry..." And there she sits...

Nope,

OSHA approved hazmat cleanup tool for "leaded" fuels;-P

Wow, that is super clean. Everybody is somebodies DAPO.

Thanks for the link, Chris. Just submitted my request

I'm watching your progress too, Kent

Chris
Sorry to leave you hanging but that stupid work messed up a prefect week!!

So the black one is diagnostic hook up for the obd1. you only need the blue/orange/black. this is also were you get in to reprogram or turn off things.(16 pin at the ecu)

the other is slect monitor for tranny if your using an auto.

the 2 big blue ones are a nutrual swith that never camr to the states. can be use for engine kill or im going to use it as a clutch in.


jeff l

They i forgot to ask were did you get the engine crale from? Im running out of time to fab up the one in my head. I want to hear mine rumble before the snow flys.

jeff

Thanks Jeff! I figured you were busy. I had a million other things to do anyway so no worries, but my harness is getting very close thanks to your help.

I bought the cradle from Ian. He started a business called cold water conversions and has a lot of the stuff we converters need. I think he just got married and moved so not sure exactly what his plans are moving forward.

Link to the site is:

Coldwater

It's a very simple mount...but sturdy.

Yeah in the leaded fuel days they just poured it down the drain! Remember when leaded fuel was referred to as "regular" gas? "Unleaded" was weird, unusual stuff.

I'm a DACO! (and the c stands for current).

A good example of this would be on page 7 where I ponder rolling the rear fender lip on a car that has 15mm spacers on it...HELLO????..MCFLY????? How about just taking a few mm off of the SPACER and not bending the fender out on one side? DUH!

I didn't do it yet so no harm done.

Got the radiator attached to the engine lid, but first....

A lesson for newer 914 owners. Can anyone tell me what is wrong with this fuel line?

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Yes...slotted non-fuel injection clamps. They will eventually poke holes in the fuel line ends causing a fire in the engine bay.

See how they dig into the hose?

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Should have removed them years ago.

So the radiator...well the good news is it's very wide @ 36 inches (36x11). That is also the bad news since it was listed as being 31 inches...(must have been just the finned part measurement). It will not fit in the front trunk (MYTH BUSTED). So if this doesn't work I'll need a new radiator. For $65 it seemed like a fairly cheap gamble.

The very heavy mounting brackets were removed from the rad which weighed as much as the rest of it and I attached some 10" fans to what is technically the front. Due to the slight curve in the lid the fans fit great between the rad and the lid. So air can be pulled through rather than pushed. The lid will need some louvers in the upper part if this works...Don't want a GT lid at this point. For cooling while the car is moving I'm playing with a crazy idea involving pushing air through the former heater tubes...we'll see.

Here's how it looks....as I hoped the rad is actually higher than the rain tray was clearance-wise...you have to remove the cross brace in the lid. I'm aware that the rad cap will need to be dealt with and I ordered the recovery tank stuff Mike B. recommended in his commentary (and also in a flurry of PM's which he kindly responded to).

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I don't expect this to work perfectly out of the gate but I have to see if it works at all. If not...at least we can check it off the list.