If I was dealing with a finicky engine so far as a tune goes, i.e. race type engine or wild cams, etc., I'd agree with you. And someday I may even want a hair dryer on it but with their experience with the engine pushing a 3700 lb AWD vehicle down the road, I'd think that a chipped system on the EG with the right gearing would positively THROW a 914 down the road. And you'd keep the EPA happy with relatively stock equipment depending on your local requirements. Everything is relative though... now Cracker done stuffed a 427 detuned to 600+ hp in his street/race car! It's one of the signs of the Apocalypse!

Yeah I do like the Subiechips offer with the Nissan injectors, etc. but the simplicity of Megasquirt is calling me a little more. We'll see how the car behaves when I fire it up in the Spring.

Hey look, I did a little work!

The beast is off the ground:

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Made this primitive engine holder thing (took longer than you think!):

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Finally finished my LED tail light conversion

Pile of stuff:

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Hard to describe how much better the light is.

Can't really capture it well on camera:

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The LED (left side) is not only brighter but clearer. It catches the eye better. The right side old school lighting is barely detectable.

Here's the end result:

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Nice work Jerry (Spoke) .

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Next it's time to drain some fluids and disconnect some cables and wires, then the engine drop.

Nice job Chris! I've thought about those from time to time but may go another direction. Spoke puts out a great product though- after seeing them in person, they're a big improvement!

Alright Chris Way to go. The car looks great, too. I ordered Spoke's front LED's so I'm sure I'll follow up w/ his taillights, later. BTW' everything thing takes longer than you think. I started 2 different things this weekend and didn't finish either one. What's happening while the engine is out? Looking forward to seeing your progress. Kent

First I need to reseal the oil pump. Needs a bead of RTV. Missed that the first time. Changed every other seal on the thing! Next I'll try to flip the intake. Bob has some extra EG33 parts he is sending me including a nice painted manifold so I'll probably use that along with the known good IAC valve. Then I'll get the wiring looking a little better and find a couple of small patch panels from a parts car for the holes I cut in the trunk firewall the first time around. Also might want a new engine lid at some point. I'll test all of the sensors while I'm at it and replace the small vacuum lines with OEM ones. The intake might force me to move the battery back to the stock location, and I might go to a smaller one if so.

Nice work there.

Chris you don't happen to have an extra ECU to Engine harness? I have a bunch of engine harness, think I pitched my ECU harness

Sorry I don't Steve. Does anyone else out there have an extra one? If not you can post on these sites with a WTB and someone will likely have one:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/

or

http://svxworldforums.com/

I'm expecting lots of pics.

You'll have some my friend. Appreciate the . Definitely want to document the manifold flip.

Well I finally got the engine out. There she sits.

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That's a lot of work. Still need to clean up the mess. I'll be working on it this week.

Lesson #1 - NEVER EVER do anything "for now". I have a list of stuff I wish I did all the way the first time but wanted to get the car running and driving quickly. It's a long list.

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Look at that hole. Always makes you think "hey, what else could I shove in there?" Starting to get an itch for an LS engine...but we'll stick with this one for now.

LS and a boxster transaxle share looks tempting, but then like you, I'll stick with what I go for now.

Do it and you'll never look back...I promise.

Tony

If I go that way might as well get a new crate motor. Bob was saying you can get one for ~$5500ish if you wait for a sale. That's without the ECU but still...good deal for a new one. The days when you could find a nice used Camaro SS for $2k and pull the engine are gone. Then there's the Boxster 6 speed and the very expensive adapter plate....wow! How's the gearing on the 5 speed? Go big or go home? 6 speed or nothing?

It's a couple years out but why not start planning it now.

I didn't catch why you were pulling your engine - installing a Subaru trans? Engine reseal? Bored??

Alright Chris, you cut a fat Hog in the ass. Feels better now doesn't it. And you hit the nail on the head about that "do it for now" construction. That engine bay looks clean as a whistle. BTW, I'm giving you a "C" on pic's. Are you using a Polaroid and can't afford the film? Seriously, take lots of pics. There are other guys using the EG that will benefit from those pics'.
Other than the manifold flip what's on your plate now that the engine/trans are out?

LOL very funny Kent . Yes I will definitely pick up the pics thing. Confession...I feel pretty dumb that I did not put a coolant drain valve in...and made a pretty big f&*(&*(ing mess draining the coolant. No other way to put it. One of the many things I should have done correctly the first time . No matter how many times I thought it was dry, more kept coming when I leaned the car this way or that way. So because we have small dogs it was like a haz mat spill every time more than a few drops hit the garage floor. Clean, scrub, wipe floor, rattle the hoses again, etc.

So Kent and Mike, I need to reseal the oil pump, flip the manifold (not as easy as it sounds as George mentioned), check all the sensors, clean the engine and trans a little better, tidy up the wiring.

Good stuff Chris! If you decide to try the spacer route for flipping the intake, the best version I found is made by this guy:

http://svxworldforums.com/forum9/6230.html

Also, sorry to hijack (once again) - Chris, do you remember, in your reseal kit, are the coolant crossover tube gaskets included with it?

interesting. gives some points to a 4 install from a 4 car that had a 5 spd. clearly i need to read this thread from the beginning : ) nice work!

--

Excellent info, thanks George! You can comment or ask questions any time. I don't mind at all.

So I think you are talking about this pipe:

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If so then yes. They are just little donuts. Small but very important. Also comes with one for the dip stick holder thing. One of the most likely areas to leak.

Jim, MS has a plug and play model for certain 4 cylinder cars, which means you could literally just plug it in to a stock harness and it would already have a base map set up and everything. 2002-2005 WRX I think.

Chris, while your engine is out how about some pics of your cradle showing a little more detail for us curious types?

Chris
The problems you listed on page 25 are mainly caused by no speed sensor or the one that "fools" the ecu. Did you rig up a 5 pulse speed sensor? The vss probably needs cleaning as well.
The computer chip can be hacked and changed. I have yet to do the svx but I have done a obd1 for the 2.2. I will need to did up the info on the chip set. BUT I think the performance end is pretty good.

I didn't read thru the hole post. I will later.

Did you need an extra ecu harness? I probably have at least one.

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

Nice to hear from you. Hope all is well. I hope I describe this correctly...

So when I had no speed sensor hooked up at all the car just had an occasional stall issue and an idle issue, which I think is common since the SVX is automatic. If there wasn't enough load the car would stall. Late last year I took the speed sensor that I had saved from the SVX trans and installed it in the 2006 WRX trans I am running. Screwed right in just fine. Although I noticed a huge improvement in the idle and some behaviors, it seemed to bog down and stutter, especially when I opened it up, but also on takeoff from a stop. It's a '95 so it doesn't have that '92-'93 issue that some might be thinking of where the car bogs down off the line. I was wondering if it was just a loose wire or something. Maybe the IAC valve was sticking...something like that. I think there are two speed sensors on the SVX. Do I need to rig something else up too? Would a different VSS be better?

Steve (914forme) was looking for an ECU harness, but if you have MORE than one I'd take one too. Happy to throw some $ your way. If you just have one Steve is welcome to it. He deserves it after welding about a mile of sheet metal .

Damn sure sounds like the VSS is screwy. I'd change it out but I don't know whether it's a mis-match or simply defective. Wonder how you can test one?

Chris
Thanks good to be back. Iv been helping a guy with the 95.5 basterd child swap into a type 3.
Is the vss all the way closed just sitting? I would pull it out and see if crap has cloged it. Second the vas is conected to the outside port on the switch valve?

As far as flipping the manifold hang on .. I am working on a fix for the svx to fit the vanagons and the 914. I just did one for the type 3 2.2 but I'm not sure on the svx. I'm working on an extra manifold as I write.

You have inspired me to get this think back to smoking tires.

I'll pull it and shoot some pics tomorrow. I wired it up exactly as it was before using the stock wiring harness end.

Let me know on the manifold situation! Sounds like something quite a few people would like.

Chris - Sorry for the late reply...I don't have any experience with the 5 speed. Several of the members here have them behind Subbies I believe. The ONE thing I do know is they have a smaller R&P - if your car would ONLY be a hot rod/street car. I highly doubt you'd ever have a problem. I don't know if the adapter, flywheel and clutch pack is dynamically cheaper than the 6-speed - maybe.

It is not generally a cheap way to go (Unless you're are BOB)...he can make anything happen for nothin'!

All the best and enjoy what you've got!

Tony

Hey no problem Tony. I thought maybe the adapter would be a lot cheaper on the 5 speed...if not then the 6 speed seems like the only way to go. Is the adapter really that much more complicated that it costs $3k vs the usual $550 or so? Must be.

Again, I don't know if the adapter, flywheel and clutch are different between the two - someone here surely can chime in (who has a 5 speed version - same as the audi/vw variants). It is NOT just the adapter plate - that price includes the entire assembly (adapter, flywheel, PP an clutch). For the 6 speed - it is quite impressive and much more robust than the standard set up.

Tony

It is yours Chris, for what I am doing with the car I would like things like launch control etc.... That being said I am still really thinking about SDS, as they have done EG33s and turbo EG33s.

So I am ditching the intake upper section at a bare minimum. Trying to determine if I am going single manifold or ITBs. Part of me really wants to do ITBs But Single manifold is a lot easier to turbo if I wish to do that latter. Maybe build both as I like to build

So it looks like the manifold mod is a little more than I was going for. I was going to cut the Tbody surface 90 deg to the secondary manifolds and install keenserts to bolt the throttle body back on. Not enough meat on the svx manifold. I'm going to make a plate and see if the welder can/will spark things back together?
It should move the Tbody .5 inch froward and point straight back not up and back.

I pulled an extra vss out of the stash to check the bottom bushing. It had a lot of wear and I suspect was hanging up or leaking air.

Hey there! I've been avidly reading the EG33 builds here and wanted to comment and thank you all for your pioneering work. I am planning a conversion but into a different car -a 1977 Lancia Scorpion. Seems apropos as like the 914, the Scorpion was a weird cast-off stepchild with a lot of potential. Just needs love, understanding, and an infusion of triple the power to show what it can do...

Best regards,
Christopher

Sounds interesting Jeff. BTW...the VSS you're describing doesn't sound like mine.

Here's the one I am using.

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Screws right in to the WRX trans but it's from the SVX trans. The T shaped part spins which is the speed indicator. It has 3 leads on top. Power, signal, ground. seems to spin OK. Don't see any bushings unless they are missing? Maybe I need to lube it and put some RTV on the threads to make sure it gets a good seal on the trans.

Christopher,

I'm familiar with the Scorpion. Very cool little car. Not many left out there. You're putting an EG33 in it??? Post some pics!

The Scorpion has a transverse layout if I'm thinking correctly. An ideal candidate for an MR2 drivetrain or a Honda B16-18 setup- that little bugger would fly!! Good luck with your build!

Chris, can you look inside the trans to see the where it seats? I ask because I don't remember if mine looks like that on the trans side. Then again at this age I can't remember what I had for breakfast.

The Scorpion I got is a basket case. I have run the mental gamut of putting in an Alfa 164 V6 (cool but they have their own issues and it's been done repeatedly), a Honda/Acura K20/K24 IL4 (powerful & cool but a four banger and sounds like one), a Honda V6 (not a total fan of the transverse layout), the Subaru flat 4 (they all sound like a subaru flat 4 but have the longitudinal layout I like), which brought me to the EG33 (strong, smooth, low center of gravity, balanced longitudinal layout, and sounds like a Ferrari BB512!) The EZ30's appealed also but are more expensive as I'm sure you're aware.
I need to fabricate all the floorpans and address rust issues too so it's going to be a long row to hoe. I'll happily share my progress if you're interested. I love modding vehicles, I've built a few cars and a bunch of motorcycles. I like the friendly camaraderie that I have seen reading through the threads here.

Here's what the other end looks like Kent:

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The T piece fits in that slot (or it won't screw in). The WRX one looked pretty strange on top. Couldn't tell where the wires went. It was just a round piece. The lower part was the same. It was made of plastic.

Christopher, post away! We like pictures . FYI the EG33 is fairly heavy for a car of the Scorpion's size and weight but if you like it, go for it. A VW VR6 might work transversely... . Only if the longitudinal layout didn't end up working out. The Audi 2.8 is also a nice small motor (not the narrow angle V6). Could mount that to a Boxster/Passat Trans.

Chirs my mistake. I had an air leak on the vain in the intake. I was thinking if yours was sticking or leaking air that might be the shuttering problem. The vacuum valve it hooks up to had a crack on mine so it wasn't fully opening or closing the "air splitter" in the intake.
The trans pulse should be rock solid. The trans had one or did you have to put it in? Some of the ty756 trans didn't come with it and the have no gear inside. If you have a wrx tran it's probably a ty755?

Quick question -could you give me some dimensions of the engine/trans assembly?

Assembly length, engine width, distance from front of engine to trans axle stubs would be greatly appreciated!

Just found these for comparison sake, the 914 has a 6" longer wheelbase but they seem pretty close...

Well the entire thing from front pulley to end of the shift rod is just under 51"
It is just under 33" wide
And from the stub axle center to the front pulley you have 29" approximately.

All the numbers are approximates but they will get you close enough with a little bit of tape work or a couple card board boxes you can figure out if it will fit

Ah that explains it. That would definitely cause issues. I decided a while back to switch back to the stock intake just to make sure I eliminate any potential compatibility problems. The engine ran fine in the SVX. Just something simple I'm sure. The trans is a 2006 and the gear was in there before. Pretty sure it should work the same way.

Measurements for you Christopher...these are approximate.

About 28" wide

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The engine itself is just under 22" deep, then you have to add the snorkel for the stock intake manifold, which would add about 4" or so

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The engine and trans are about 48.5 front to back, again, add 4" or so for intake.

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The height of the engine is tough because I pulled the manifold off but I would guesstimate it at about 26" from oil pan to the top of the manifold.

Thanks to both of you!

And then I did a tiny amount of work .

Got the timing belt cover off, pulley, etc:

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The leak is right here...VERY small one but I hate oil leaks.

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At first I was a little panicked because that black stuff looked like JB Weld....which would mean something bad. But it's not. It's black RTV. Scraped right off and is pliable. Someone tried to stop the leak temporarily with it. Any idea how much work that was in an SVX? Brings lazy to a new level.

Once that engine is out most everything else is easy; except diagnosis of course. p.s., Received the controller, Chris Nice neat little package. Good tip. Thx.

Cool man. Very easy to install. Remember you'll probably have to adjust the thermostat a bit. I'm sure you can see the dial on the housing with temp #s. My fans came on way too early initially. Think its set at 165 from the factory which means they wont go off until the temp gets to 155...so...not until you turn the car off. . Put the sensor right by the HOT inlet on the rad. Then a few tweaks and you'll be good. I doubt they'll come on much until you kick the AC on. Pretty sure we can stick with the rad hoses we have now after all .

After reading the wiring instructions I see why some people were claiming them to be "DOA". The Futsie's probably missed the part where "neg" fan connects to "pos" on the unit and wired pos to pos and neg to neg instead.

Totally stumbled on this one but it's a good lesson. Check the crank and cam angle sensors! The car ran fine so I ASSUMED they were OK.

There are two Crank Angle Sensors that are located on top of the oil pump right under the alternator next to each other. I was removing them to take the oil pump out and one of them just didn't want to budge. The outer metal sleeve had come loose and was stuck inside the hole. I tested it and found the sensor was bad so I manhandled it out.

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Looks like a small amount of water must have gotten between the sensor and the pump housing:

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That's the one area I didn't mess with when I resealed the engine (of course).

When you test these using an Ohm meter it should read ~2600. The other two are very close...

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The bad one...nothing...

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These are very simple magnetic sensors, they are technically all interchangeable. The only difference is the angle of the plug.

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Of course the one I need is #1, and the plug end is pretty unique. Just need to do some searches to see what other Subaru sensor is close enough. You can find these for $20 -$30 each. Tempting to replace all 3. Definitely not spending ~$250 for the SVX one.

Chris I have 1 complete set, and the two on the engine, the cam sensor was trashed on my mockup engine. If you don't find one I can pull them next weekend. I am traveling this week for work, will be back in town next Friday.

Thanks so much Steve. Very nice of you. I'll definitely let you know but will try to use the Legacy ones first so you can keep those as spares. The price for a new #1 is RIDICULOUS.