I flipped the entire thing, you will have to move the alternator! It is pretty easy if you ditch a bunch of stuff, you will have to move the air solenoid.

Looking at it today, I am thinking about doing something a little different. Keeping the bottom half flipped, and moving the return line, and inlet to feed from both sides of the engine. Ever since reading what SDS did for an intake on a 3.3, I have been thinking about making one myself. They did it out of steel, but for some reason, I am thinking about doing lost foam carbon fiber intake. I have seen someone comment on flammability, but then you know the internet, it is full of clowns, who say their cousin's, father's, sister's husband's corvette go up in flames. The forgot he doused it in gas, and diesel fuel, with a touch of kerosene just to give it a nice look. I'll do my own research, I have three ideas right now.

Single TB, main plenum. easiest
ITBs
Or my current favorite, but of course the hardest of all, Stacks looking like MEFI off a 911, going into an 911 style airbox. The filter will be behind the Single TB, which would be mounted behind the air snorkel. or

Oh and I did have to cut a hole in my rear trunk today, so the first cut is done. Glad I am past that!!!! I had to make clearance for the clutch line. Might elongate it a little and pickup the fork, that would allow me to bring the engine up a little. But then we will see.

I will try and weight the drive train, I can squat 550 pounds right now. Not sure I want to dead lift a subie engine and trans and step on a scale. In reality I am not sure I have a scale that will tell me. To bad I don't have a set of corner scales. I could give you the total and what the cross weights look like. Oh I know how I'll do it. But it will have to weight until spring, I'll load the engine in the truck, run down the grain elevator, and hop on the scale, the unload it, and get the weight difference. +-10 pounds okay for you?

Bob, there really ain't to much to see right now, , except a bare chassis, and a lot of pieces going in, and back out a few hundred times to get things mocked up, welded in, and then removed for paint work. Really kind of boring when you get right down to it. But your more than welcome to stop by. Just PM me hopefully Im in town, crazy work schedule right now also.

I really need to update my thread, just been doing stuff, I'll get to it. Maybe by the time I update it, I will have covered all my mistakes and it will look perfect.

Great, thanks for the info. Where can I see this SDS intake you speak of ?

One idea I had to add a little height was to use phenolic spacers in the intake. IIRC if there was just a LITTLE more height it would help with the fitment when flipping the intake. I have to pull the engine to fix a small leak at the oil pump so I might try it then. I'll keep you posted.

Intake Manifold build for EG3.3

Wow...I definitely don't have the skills for something like that. Cool though. The two hole-d throttle body is definitely a pain. Not an insurmountable problem but a pain nonetheless. Would be easier to pipe if it was one like the EZ series. Rocky Mountain Westy makes an intake for the Vanagon but it's $400 and doesn't do much more for the 914 setup than stock. Unless you flip the intake or use something like I did (3000GT intake) you have to use the stock setup and do a lot more cutting of the firewall.

So Phase 2 for me is fixing the screw-ups/band-aid fixes-just-to-see-if-it-would-actually-run of Phase 1

Okay I did a little experiment today with the flipped manifold. It will work, sort of

You will need to raise the intake up 3.75 inches, if you leave the alternator in its stockfish position. And yes it still clears the engine lid with out a rain tray. Now for the but!!

I took the PVC vent piece off the TB, made it that much easier to fit stuff up. That thing is huge!!!!

Now if you use the stock snorkel, you run into an issue. It needs to move back 1.5 inches rearward. It would just clear the firewall, but you might like to add a dent just to give you a little extra space. And you will have to clearance the latch brake for the engine lid. But no more cutting in the rear trunk, except for the slave cylinder banjo fitting.

Heres the pictures!

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Here it is with out the snorkel, might still be able to make it work!
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Wouldn't it be easier to relocate the alternator? Need that A/C compressor? I think SmallCar or someone even sells a new bracket to do that. You might want to check, if nothing else than to see how they do it.

Now there's an idea- twin turbo your EG33!! What trans would you use that wouldn't blow up??

Yeah I heard somewhere that a Mazda alternator works well for relocation. Think one of the guys here mentioned it. It sort of looks like the stock alternator is used though. Good call DB, we need to look at Subie EG33 conversions and modified applications. Those twin turboe'd cars are probably unbelievable!

I have one with the flipped stock alternator if you don't want/need A/C.

Ditch cruise control also and you don't need to raise the manifolds at all. If you want cruise, then you will need 3/4" blocks. Might not be a bad idea anyway. Get some heat transfer out of the all aluminum heat mass.

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With out blocks cruise control piece hits alternator, use smaller alternator, or.....

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Much better Sorry for the blurriness of the picture, I have Sir Andyitist! And I don't have a picture of that setup in the car. I did it and it does work with out a single cut.

Last night I started to think about where to get the air and where to put the filter. GT Engine lid, and mount the filter box in front of the engine in the recess in the fire wall. Could make it a huge panel filter. Big question is will it draw enough air.

Oh nice twin turbo SVXs, very nice No No No, get the ideas out of my head!!!!!!

BTW, I think most of them go with a Subaru 4.44 autos, though the SVX autos are know to be pretty sought also. hmm I know where theres one of those right now, in PA in another 914 conversion donor pile!

If you want A/C and alternator, why not just put the alternator over where the Power Steering pump was? Will require a bracket, might require a smaller alternator. But that should work also. If I had Photoshop skills, I would move it over for you.

Wish I had photo shops skills, my CAD skills are limited to Network wiring diagrams. So thy are of limited help right now also. I'm old school, tape measure, pen knife, and cardboard. Make a template, and build. Like this battery box, I liberated the idea off another build. Nice and low, passenger side, between the axles. And plenty of room there.

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I should have waited for you to do your conversion Stephen! So are you telling me I can just flip-flop the alternator into the space where the AC unit was??? I already took the AC out for now. The bracket has a tensioner on it too, so I can remove the heim joint. Not planning to run cruise so that can be removed and capped. AWESOME!!! Thanks very much for the info. Very excited. Now I just need to find a piece to cover up my hole in the firewall. Lots of cars getting cut up, I'm sure someone will have one.

BTW you might THINK you'd like cruise control but the car turns into an animal vs the SVX and it becomes a lot less desireable. It's too much fun to set the cruise control.

Here is a pretty cool custom intake for the EZ30:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread...9743&page=7

BTW, I think most of them go with a Subaru 4.44 autos, though the SVX autos are know to be pretty sought also. hmm I know where theres one of those right now, in PA in another 914 conversion donor pile!

my car was upgraded to a legacy auto. I would love someone to be able to use it. If not, it will go with the car to the crusher.

Have you thought about posting it for sale on an SVX forum, with the caveat that they have to go get it/remove it? Might get $100 and someone would be happy.

AWESOME intake Ross.

Ahhhh, activity! It's been the Boredom Bowl since Winter set in. I miss all the builds. I wouldn't worry about making cuts. Once that Suby, SBC, etc is installed the car is a bastard anyway. Just save the pieces that are cut out so they can be welded back in place. No worries! Now we just need to shake Doug's cage a little.

Okay, well you'll be done before me. Now, you will still need the helm joint, as the tensioner you speak of is for the AC, and its a back pulley. You would have seen it, when you bolted it all up.

I want cruise control to keep me in check on the long drives I am planning on doing in the car. I'll kick it off when I get into the twists

Good thought but It's at my mechanics. I can't just send people over to work on the car.

Tell them they pay you $400 for trans they can have everything else on the car they want, and they must pickup and dispose of it, within X time. Requirement being they tow it off your mechanics lot, and you sign the title over to them. No liability on you after the title transfer, and you solved your dispose issue with 4 uncle Ben's in your pocket. Heck I would give my mechanic some for his troubles also. Some really nice

Nice tip on that thread

Now I have another thread to keep up with, that guy's got some serious talent.

Hey Chris, the snow is melting; time to dust off this build thread and get 'er going again.

Darn right brother! Thank you again for the stickers.

Planning to at least get the new fan setup and fan controller installed this weekend. I'm also going to move my shifter slightly back and copy Roachghia's setup. Raises it up a bit so I don't have to extend it. The short shift throw is nice if you can make it work.

How's everyone else doing out there in Subie land? Anything cool to report?

Got my trailing arm bushings from Eric installed, picked up the front bushings and new rear Bilsteins.... that's gotta count for something!

http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/175-1.html
http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/174-1.html
http://www.kitplanes.com/magazine/engines/173-1.html
A composite Subaru intake manifold for a custom that worked,a thing of beauty.
Requires some fab skill in the medium,he used a hi-temp epoxy/s-glass layup on a foam core.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=subaru+perfo...RBqCtgQ_AUIBigB
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rS7in5COiw
another material.

Uh, that's a 2.2, not a 3.3. I spent 20 yr's in the Homebuilt Aircraft Industry and never saw an auto conversion that merits the work required. An exercise in WTF! An adequate analogy would be, "Would you put an A/C engine in a car and why?"

Changed my fans out today...you can buy the Celica GTS radiator on e-bay with or without the 12" fans. Trust me, they are worth the extra $86.

I started with a set of 10" fans because I had them, made a shroud out of metal that I had...just wasn't pulling enough.

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Then I tried adapting the SVX fans, which seem very sturdy and fit perfectly onto the radiator. The problem there was that the air flowed down and to the sides rather than straight through the fans.

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Here are the correct, 12" slim fans (they come in black too)

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Here they are running. Great flow. So much better than the 10". Note the carpet flapping in the breeze.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzsG92HWl0g


BTW don't worry about the rattling sound. The shroud was loose since the top was off and vibrating against something.

I also stopped using the SVX ECU fan controller to power my radiator fans. It never quite acted right. Don't know why but even though I had them wired together, when they both needed to be running in high speed mode, only one of them would run. Not good. Got tired of troubleshooting it for hours. Even Bob was a little baffled.

With Bob's recommendation I went to this:

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No it's not invisible, but it's pretty small. Fits nicely on the bumper support:

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It wires up so easily and can control two fans. It also has an AC wire that would switch the fans on regardless of temp. I wired that up to a switch and will be using it temporarily as an override to run the fans constantly if I want to while I'm getting the cooling system dialed in.

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Easy instructions:

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I need to get my Renegade valance installed and the front opening cut out a little larger so I can drive it around. The engine hasn't gotten warm enough so I can set what temp to kick the fans on at. It's not quite a perfect science since the sensor is in the radiator core, not in the coolant flow. I'll keep y'all posted on the performance.

FWIW, Subaru uses the power steering oil pump switch to control the fan speed.

That's very strange. Probably part of the problem since I'm not running a power steering pump and had removed that circuit from the harness.

And since none of us have pwr steering, you can take that lead to ground for a 50rpm boost in idle.Chris, your fans sound serious. Driving time is very near.

Hey Kent! Yeah I already grounded the PS wire which you figured out last year for me. You just reminded me I need to reconnect it! In addition to the idle increase it also provides a constant "load" to the system which is important for the SVX ECU. I was very tempted to drive it around but it's better if I work through the issues first. The hole up front is too small so it won't cool enough. No reason to subject it to overheating. The shifter cables are also slightly melted, which I need to replace. I have new ones.

Next up:

- Get the valance fitted and cut the front trunk hole bigger. Probably also have to adjust the shroud angle on the sides since the hole will be a little wider.
- Need to get to Bob's to pick up my second trans and some other stuff. My trans has a whine which may or may not be fixable. Bob says no, so it's 99.9% no. Probably work for a while, but not indefinitely. Regardless, I want the trans he has at his place and to see his newest project. It will be warm enough to take pics this time!
- Fix minor oil leak at the oil pump. For you EG33 guys, the oil pump must be re-sealed using a bead of RTV...I had the whole damn engine apart and did the timing belt and water pump but didn't re-seal that SOB.
- Swap out my cables, try a new shifter position/option
- Flip the intake if I can make it work.
- Install my louvered floor pan

Lots to do, but I also want to start enjoying it, so the priority is getting it driveable for long distances.

Much to do in one respect; very little in a other. I'll bet your done within 30 days.

Here the circuit I used.
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This circuit can control other power circuits only when the engine is running.

Very interesting stuff! Any thoughts on how to solve the dreaded SVX stall issue that is (allegedly, according to the SVX guys) caused by the fact that all SVX's are automatics and the ECU expects a load of some kind at all times? I've had it happen. Engine idled perfectly in the SVX. Now it will sometimes stall when you put the clutch in, especially when coming from high rpms. Seems to happen after warmup. When cold it's fine. Even with the power steering pump wire grounded it wasn't 100% cured. I know smallcar had a chip you can install for ~$260, but it's not on their website any more.

Two things that I know of that cause the problem ,the brake switch and the clutch
switch must be hook up, and the ECU must have the AUTO lead to the ECU grounded

Most importation thing is the VSS must be wire to the ECU.

Thank you! The brake switch and clutch switch would be hooked up to...? The brake light circuit for the brake I assume? Clutch would be what? And both are powered +?

With out the wiring diagram I'm not sure where the clutch switch would be connected.
The brake switch would be wired normally, the VSS signal must goto the ECU.

If you are using a Auto ECU I would guess the clutch switch would be wired to
the TCM lead to the ECU.

The ECU must get all the signals from the TCM to operate propely, these signals
can come from another source (fake) to make the ECM think it coming from the
TCM

OK thanks. The VSS is definitely connected so that's good. I doubt the Auto wire is grounded. I'll start with that and see what happens. I'll dig up the wiring diagrams too. Thanks for the help! So just to confirm, I just need to connect the brake wire into the brake circuit somewhere?

Edit: BTW I still have the TCM...but would think that might complicate things to hook it back up...maybe not?

Dug up one of the ECU pinouts I used (Found on an SVX site). The ECU does not have a clutch or brake switch wire, those are on the TCM. I do see a few wires that might be helpful in evening out the idle issue

- Pin 16 in the top plug labeled B59 is called "atmospheric pressure sensor / A/T control unit" No voltage required, I may ground it and see what happens.
- Pin 20 in the top plug..."torque control signal"...how about that one? requires 5 volts to "trick" it.
- Pin 11 on B60 - speed sensor 2 - should I connect this to the VSS on my trans? I don't have it connected currently. Thought I did.

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From what I read on SVX sites the VSS has to be connected up.
The brake an clutch switchs are used to control cruise control.

Few updates you might be interested in.

First is the trans whine "issue", which was not an issue at all, just a misunderstanding in the directions when installing the locking spool. The instructions were to remove the thinner of the two washers from the original assembly when installing it. That is ONLY IF you have two small diameter washers at the END of the assembly. There is a larger diameter washer that goes in BEFORE the spool. DO NOT REMOVE THAT ONE!!! It will seem like the right thing to do, but it's not. You won't be able to get the nut tight enough and gears 3-5 will be slightly mis-aligned and whine. I only drove it about 10 miles that way, so no harm done. Apparently there are Subie guys who tolerate this kind of whine for thousands of miles. Once I reinstalled the washer it was totally quiet. The trans only has 64k on it, and there were no signs of wear at all.

More info here:

Guy whining about trans whine

Once I fixed the trans, the drive train immediately started eating 914 CV joints. The Subaru end also slipped out once. Turned out to be worn out CVs.

See more on that here:

New CV setup

Like a lot of the Subaru converts I used the MR2 shifter. I positioned it close to the stock setup, but the shift lever is a little too short. Didn't want to extend it too much since the short throw is nice. After trying several shift knobs and I heard that the stock MR2 knob is one of the best to use. Unfortunately when you screw that one on the shaft is WAY too short. Ordered this stainless steel extender:

MR2 Shifter Extension

Just need an MR2 shift knob. Got mine from MR2Parts4U on e-bay. There are a couple of nice ones on there from other sellers too.

MR2knob

Here's how it looks before assembly...WAY too long right?

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No!

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Here it is installed:

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You grab the shift knob sideways instead of on top so the throw wasn't extended much.

Couple of things I learned:

- Avoid aluminum extensions. They will eventually break.
- If you buy one with a hex nut on it, make sure it's removable like this one is.

Need to work on the interior soon! Probably grab an MR2 boot and build a cover around it for the shifter and center area.

The other thing I did was properly connect the alternator directly to the battery. It's a common SVX upgrade, so I followed the process on the Subaru-SVX site.

Used 4 gauge wire and installed a 100 amp slow blow fuse just in case...

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Here it is installed...bolts to the old FI box holes...

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The SVX battery also has 2 ground points, one chassis ground and one engine ground. I re did those with 4 gauge wire too. Here you can see the upper wire from the alternator to the battery, and the lower engine ground wire.

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It's running well, staying at or below 185 degrees now. Next up is to connect the VSS, flip the intake, and make it look prettier.

6 mo's between updates? Are you sneaking into the "Build off" threads? I need to connect my VSS to the ECU as well. Scares the shit out of me every time the ECU looks for that signal. For those of you that are converting to Suby and using the OEM ECU; if you don't connect that circuit the car will cut off for 2-3 seconds after driving at a constant speed for extended periods of time. As long as your throttle position changes e.g. town driving, it never occurs.
Good to see you posting again! Did you decide what to do for the floating 1/2 shafts and CV's. Was "the floating" shaft the culprit? Kent

Very nice Chris! Hate to add some doubt, but I'm in the process of flipping the intake on my engine stand. Unfortunately, there is a possibility some of those new wires may not work, depending on where you put the alternator when you flip it. I'll get around to posting pictures of how I flipped it soon. There is a lot more work than it initially looks like.

Hey guys!

Yeah Kent I realized I had stopped posting stuff in my build thread. Not good for anyone building an EG33. Although the floating axles do offer a LOT of "float"..like...enough to fit two 914 CV's on the Porsche end of the shaft, I actually think the root of the problem was combining the floating axle with a very weak CV joint on the 914 end. If the 914 CV is floppy the floating axle will move A LOT. Not only can the cage get moved into a precarious position and break, but the Subaru end, which is very strong but not secured at the end, can slip out, causing the bearings to come off of the "tulip" (you know what I mean). I think it happened to Ross once. Ended up adding 944 CVs with the adapter from Bob which added about 1.5 inches or so to the end length, so the axle is fully compressed into the Subaru end. Even had to let the trailing arm down to reinstall it. Works great!

George, thanks for the feedback. Always like to hear it "straight". Post pics when you can! I purposely left the wire long just in case. WAY long . My plan is to POSSIBLY move my alternator into the spot where the AC compressor was. That puts the positive terminal upside down I think, which might be a bad idea... My battery is on the opposite side from normal, which might have to change if I go back to the stock intake setup (which is recommended BTW). Or maybe I put the stock airbox there and do a small battery on the other side. I also saw there is a guy who makes phenolic spacers for the SVX that might help with clearance. Gonna check into that. Hope your new little one is well .

Another small thing...when we buy these 5MT transmissions they may or may not come with the clutch/flywheel area cover plate. Mine didn't and I hated the huge gap and exposed flywheel. Always assumed there was a cover of some kind but my only experience with a Subaru engine was an automatic.

Finally took a few minutes to find this:

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Part number is 30216, followed by sub numbers for different years. Mine for the 2006 was 30216AA0020. E-bay, $17.XX

So are you driving it regularly now? Do you have more detailed impressions? Fun to drive? Worth all the work? Anything you'd do differently?

How funny, I was just looking for one as well. I will check eBay.

Me too! Thx a bunch, Chris. That was bugging the out of me and I thought I would have to make something. That will keep the road debris out of the TO bearing.

I'm driving it...have about 350 miles on it for the year which is A LOT since I did 2000 in the previous 12 years, most of which was done in the first 5. The VSS is not hooked up. Not going another mile until I do that. I think it's hindering the performance a bit as I posted on Kent's thread. I definitely have some feedback on your questions above. Let me but a list together.