OK, here we go again. Sense this is the second attempt at controlling the motors I am using 4 ESC's and the circuit board to provide the correct voltage for the throttle and the rear wing flap servo. I still need to bring 12 volts to the busbar. Power from the regulator through a relay that is made hot by the ignition switch.

Click to view attachment

Oh cool, good idea. Everything hot from one spot makes it easier to trouble shoot. Peace

Thanks Paul but all the trouble shooting has to happen inside the box now. With the single ESC which was outside the box I had easy access, now I have to pull the box to do it. I still have to make it live before I can do the installation. We'll see where it goes from there.
I really want to see the fan box with the duct work installed.

And there goes another thousand, 38,000 viewers.
At my anual physical the other day my Doctor says to me, " Joe how is your heart?
Me, " My hart is fine, it hasn't been broken in years."
Yesterday I started wiring for Gurney flap on the rear wing. It's going to be a little difficult.
Josh has been working on the circuit board and is making good progress.

Click to view attachment

Hiding from the heat today. Working on wires for the motor controls. Trying to get the rear wing apart so I can install the servo and cut in the Gurney flap. If things don't work out, I'll make a new wing built for the Gurney flap and the servo.

Pretty cool stuff, Joe

Thanks Paul, I really think so. If everything works the way it is supposed to I'll be able to see if the scoops for the intake are aiding in airflow and the same goes for the fan box. I can add an air pressure sensor to the bottom of the air box and see if it is really dropping the air pressure under the car. Check the air speed in the plenums and at the exhaust grills behind the oil coolers. I will be able to check air temperature, pressure and velocity anywhere on the car. The readout and controls will be on the dash.

Click to view attachment

Today I located the Gurney flap servo. This is so COOL.

Cut out the opening for the Gurney flap on the rear wing and drilled a chase for the wires. I also figured out how to hide the servo wires up to the wing.

Click to view attachment

I was also looking at the Gurney flap width and what you see here is 2", but I 'm thinking about 1.5" would be adequate.

The relay gives regulated power to the ESC's. I did this yesterday and now it's about ready for a test to see if it will all work together

Click to view attachment.

The white paper is a pattern for the end of the air box. It needs replaced because it has to many holes in it.

Very cool Joe...Let us know

Thanks Paul, probably a couple of days before I can crank it up.
Mounting the electrics to the patched end of the air box. I need more wire, it should arrive tomorrow.

Click to view attachment

Works just like the first one, ignition switch powers up the relay, it turns on the regulator which gives regulated power to the ESC's. The regulator is there to protect the delicate little ESC'S. That way they will never see a spike.
Josh tells me that the Arduino board is almost complete and that new screen and cable are here.
WOW, the fan box is almost complete and we are going DIGITAL soon.

Awful lot of people checking in here every day. I'm not tracking the numbers but I 'm just trying to keep me going. It seems to work because I really enjoy the out come. The results are obvious as the car is radical and I am the one that is doing it. You guys here help me a lot and I really appreciate your input like when Scott Townsend said to put the front wing close to the ground and Mark Shidemantel (sorry Mark, I could never spell your last name) said to make the rear wing adjustable from the cockpit, I had no idea how to accomplish that. Now I do and am making it happen.
The car is still a long ways out because of what I still would like to do, like the flat bottom and the front suspension. I know what I:m going to do with the exhaust and that will probably cause me to think about other unexpected things that will give me some more to do.
So as my build thread approaches 40'000 viewers I have a lot of people to thank. Everyone of them cost me thought effort and time, but that is really what this car is for. Time. I have something really cool to do everyday. The changes you have guided me to have made this car as cool as it is. DON'T EVER STOP!!!
So a huge thanks go out to
Scott
Tony
Mark
Paul
and anyone that has caused me to back up and look at what I was doing and redo it.
This project would not be as bitchin as it is without your input.

Keep on truckin' Joe, lookin good!

Thanks Scott, this has been fun. I was happy with the car when I was running out on the west coast. It still had some pushing in the front end but the geometry was not quite right and I thought it could still lose a little more air pressure. The tires were scuffing in on the outside but nothing on the inside. I found that I still had a bit of camber left . Now I have taken that out. The rear of the car was planted and the temperatures were within 8° a cross the back of the car. So I'm not changing a thing there. It's still has a long ways to go before I can put her back on the track.

So, I'm having lunch and checking out all my computer options. Laptop, tower and phone. currently I'm using the tower, normally I use the phone but today I'm using the tower which required a little work to get up and running. The reason I'm doing all this stuff is Starlink arrived day before yesterday. So now I'm going through all the stuff and making sure it is all functional.
Ribs for lunch, I can't tell you how good these ribs are. I've been sending some home with the staff of my watering hole (Saint John's River Grill) and one of the guys mother came over to me the other day and said that she really liked them and handed me a $50. What a nice surprise. So Friday night I cooked 11 racks and sent her one a half racks. The staff at The Grill got the rest. I cook them so that they are falling off the bone but every rack weighs in over 4 pounds which makes them very meaty. I had 4 bones for lunch that's probably half a pound. As you can see from the picture the piece that still has it's bone they are meaty. Look close.

Click to view attachment

I'm editing from my phone and posting from the tower. Sorry if I seem confused.

39,001 viewers today. I said it before and I'll probably say it over many times, WOW Just WOW...

I've been having a dilemma about how to hinge the flap on the rear wing. I've made it way more complicated than it needs to be. First of all it's 50" and me thinking that it needs to pivot freely. So I was trying to think of fabricating up some sort of wire hinge with 5 or 6 pivots. And do that without it being difficult to install and move freely. Right. So today I had a thought about the hole thing and this is where I went. It doesn't need to be perfectly centered on the wing or have perfect fairing when up, it just needs to pivot.
I have on hand some really light fiberglass cloth to make a 2" wide tape from and glue it on with Flex Seal. I just ordered some 1/16" pinstripe tape and I would like to use it to put a center line on the fiberglass tape on both sides so I can pull it after the installation.
It seems to me that I always try to make things more difficult than they need to be.

Click to view attachment

Cutting the Flap out.

I've been having a dilemma about how to hinge the flap on the rear wing. I've made it way more complicated than it needs to be. First of all it's 50" and me thinking that it needs to pivot freely. So I was trying to think of fabricating up some sort of wire hinge with 5 or 6 pivots. And do that without it being difficult to install and move freely. Right. So today I had a thought about the hole thing and this is where I went. It doesn't need to be perfectly centered on the wing or have perfect fairing when up, it just needs to pivot.
I have on hand some really light fiberglass cloth to make a 2" wide tape from and glue it on with Flex Seal. I just ordered some 1/16" pinstripe tape and I would like to use it to put a center line on the fiberglass tape on both sides so I can pull it after the installation.
It seems to me that I always try to make things more difficult than they need to be.

Click to view attachment

Cutting the Flap out.

My rendition of The Gurney Flap.

Click to view attachment

I would have never thought of this until @euro911 asked for it.
Thanks Mark!!!

So I pulled the flap and fitted it with the wing and taped it in place. The fit is perfect and it is much freer than I expected. Lifting it from laying on the top flat it falls down into its neutral position with a clunk. Much better than what I expected. Completely free from any drag.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment


Sorry you don't get to see the action, I need to learn how to post a video.

So after deleting the double post I'll be posting about what I am trying to accomplish today. Like getting the wing ready for the hinge. I'm going to try to do the gluing in 2 stages, upper and lower. With some tape over the center line. Wish me luck.
We're really close to 40,000 viewers.

Click to view attachment

Well it's not very pretty but should be functional. Really not dry enough to do anything with. I hate waiting.

Click to view attachment

Well here it is Boys and Girls except for the chanel for the wires and the length of the levers on the linkage for the Gurney flap it's done.

Click to view attachment

Less than 40 viewers till it gets to 40,000 Viewers.

Got the wing ready to go back on the car. Made up the channel to cover the wires going up the mounting bracket and it looks OK but if I don't like it later I can change it easily.

Click to view attachment

When I started this post I looked to see how many views this thread has had and it said 39,995. I'm going to look right now and see if I'm any closer to the big 40,000 number yet...

40,000 VIEWERS at last. I am jazzed, I never thought that I would receive such a huge amount of attention. Can't be my writing, has to be something in the contents.
What ever, you've put perma-grin on my face. Thank you for your support and habitual returning to my build thread...

I sure would like to cook for al'yal...

That's my smiley...

Well I managed to get some time for the car today. I cleaned up the finish on the strut and the end plate and ran the wires to the servo.

Click to view attachment

The wires are coming out of the hole in the bottom of the wing.and I left enough wire to make it back to the air box.
The grain on the aluminum looks good on the strut and end plate .

Purely for your entertainment, I am getting closer all the time.

Click to view attachment

Let's see how bad the picture is.
I might have to change it as it's not very good. We'll what tomorrow brings.

The wires to the servo connector are done and tucked away at the correct length. Coming out of the bottom of the strut bracket at the drip rail so I can tuck them into rear of the car. I still need to make a connection to the wires coming out of the air box. Oh I'm forgetting the linkage from the servo to the Gurney flap

Click to view attachment

Servo wires coming out of the bottom of the strut bracket.

Click to view attachment

The strut bracket mounts into the drip rail on the rear trunk. I can make the connection to the air box there.

Placed the wing and located the wires by clipping them in place with a plastic clip on double sticky tape. Next step is to heat shrink it into shape. It only has 2 connectors in the circuit one at the servo and one at the air box. The wing comes off the car with 4 quick release pins and 1 connector.

Click to view attachment

The way I ran the wires.

Click to view attachment

Where the connection is going to be. You can barely see the wires coming out of the air box but they cross where I can get both hands on them.

Click to view attachment

Today I was working on getting the air box ready for the adreno
board installation. Just some small details.

Click to view attachment

Josh told last night that he had it live and it was working. He also talked about some of the sensors.
WOW, this is so COOL.

The adreno board installation will go here.

Click to view attachment

The voltage regulator and the relay can be moved if they need more room.

Working on the circuits with a new relay that will power up the Gurney flap when the brakes are applied. I really hope this works just because it would be so cool to see it happen.
I've got power to the Arduino board from the relay that is the signal to the board. Now I need to finish the wires to the servo. Everything will need to be wired to the Arduino board. We have a bunch of sensors and each one is different, some by function others by location.
Wind speed will be cool also. I will be able to see Barometric Pressure, Temperature and Humidity in several places on the car at once.
All of this works...

Click to view attachment

The voltage regulator is there to protect the delicate electronics from the spikes and the 2 relay's turn on the ESC'S and put the Gurney flap up when the brakes are applied.

Nice that I had my circuits running tonight because Josh came over to connect the Arduino board up.
I got to see it light up. But the board didn't like the clean 12 volts. So Josh is making up a low voltage power point to feed it what it wants.
Really it's just a bunch of spaghetti right now but this hole thing is just an exercise in electronics.
But I'm jazzed because I got to see the screen and the board light up.
Josh started this test tonight because he has a question about powering up the ESC's signal. Right now I have all 4 ESC's tied together and he was afraid that we might have to run them as individuals. My bus bar has the room to do that.
Josh went home to make up the power point.
I was going to take a picture but like I said it would only be of spaghetti.
This is so Kool...

Picture

Click to view attachment

So I bought this light to add some light to the inside of the box. I had bought 2 of them before and they were white. I had intended to put it on the Bimini top on my poontoon but never got around to it. I had used the other two, one for a license plate light and the other on a Bimini for cockpit lighting. I also thought that it might light up the oil coolers a little and that might look neat. So after the installation I got this one lit is when I found out that it is red. Damn. It's going on the car this way at least until I decide to change it.

Another

Click to view attachment

It's hard to get anything done inside of the box because of the light level. But I'm not sure that I can live with this.
We have lots of work left todo inside here and it may get changed before the box goes back in.
I hope someone is laughing out there.

I don't think that this is going to work.

Click to view attachment

Can't see the screws on the bus bar. It's 2am, I'll talk it over with Josh later. He has to wire in the Arduino board and make sure everything works.

Some of the things I want to know that the Arduino board is going to be able to tell me are.
Do the intake scoops make a difference in air pressure and temperature in the plenums?
Does the fan box make a difference in air pressure under the rear of the car at speed?
How much air flow is in the plenums?
The temperature of any place on the car?
How fast is the car going (wind speed)?
The air pressure on the top and bottom of the air foils?
Any questions that can be answered out there in my viewer land?

The installation is going to take a little time as Josh does most of his work on the car after he puts his girls to bed. He comes over here often in the wee hours sometimes just to escape.

Somehow I missed all this. It says 10.16 CM Rouge. So today I'll see if I can't find one that talks about White.

Click to view attachment

What's french for white, blanc. I'll find out later. Have to have real light in there.

This is so much better. I hung 2 LED strip lights from the ceiling of the box and it is so much more light. My problem with the red was glare, and really made it hard to focus on the screw heads.

Click to view attachment

Now I can see the head of the screw from outside of the box.

Look closely and you can see the head of the screw through the fan housing.

Click to view attachment

I lied, it's a very bad picture and I can't see shit. Sorry, but changing the lights made a huge difference in what you can see inside the box.

Today Josh and I had a meeting about what he needed for the wires from the bus bar to the Arduino board for the signal wires to the ESC'S and the Gurney flap. So I ran them this evening.

Click to view attachment

Now I believe that I can mount the box and run the wires up to the rear wing bracket. I need to run the wires though the plastic clips and use the heat gun to form the wires in place.

Everything is labeled, the motors are numbered and show directions. I either have 1 correct and 3 wrong or vice a versa. The ESC's and the wiring on the bus bar.

Click to view attachment

One of the ESC's seems to have a weak signal. (#4). I have a spare.

I've done a little more detailing to the electrical wiring inside the air box and I'm in the middle of installing an off and on switch for the lighting in the box. Also I decided to use the red light as a 3rd brake light but I don't think it is bright enough so I'm adding 2 more. The switch and lights should be here later this week.

Click to view attachment

During the many times that I have placed the air box into it's location once the voltage regulator was in the way of the taillight bracket. So it got moved over.
At this time I am trying to put the switch for the interior lights inside the box, next to the taillight bracket. Hopefully I will be able to get my finger on the switch and turn it on and off. The red wires in the for ground will go to the switch.

Today I spent about 4 hours on the electronics inside the box. It gave me a cleaner and more organized finished appearance. Believe me it's much easier to fallow now. During the chore of getting this done I redid the wiring for the 3rd brake light relay, now it works. Oh and I installed a switch on the inside lighting.

Click to view attachment

The box with the 3rd brake light on.

Click to view attachment

Just to see how this shows...
The coolers will look bitchin bathed in that glow.

I've not had much time for the car lately but I can sometimes slip in a moment or two just because a lot of the project is in the living room.
The Gurney Flap with linkage in the full up position.

Click to view attachment

Damn, I just like it.

Well I finally got the Gurney Flap pivot lever finished and installed and and the pivot hinges screwed down. I'm really happy with the the pivot lever as the other one was weak and ugly and causing problems. This one has a pop rivet for a pivot point.

Click to view attachment

It almost seems like every time I turn around there is another Thousand Viewers. Thank you very much. Over 42,000 now.

Don't forget to like and subscribe.....
I don't think I have enough time in my life to be a U tuber.

Exercising the Gurney Flap. I don't know about you but I really like this. This is the position the Flap well be in when the brake lights are on.

Click to view attachment

Neat, I have Jim Hall of Chaperral to thank for that and exhausting the air from the oil cooler out the rear of the car. I believe that he used an air brake before he actually used a wing for down force. I'm thinking '64. His worked off of the hydraulics from the brakes. We're just running a wire from the brake light as it's only about a foot from the Arduino board.