Wire was on sale so I bought some...and by some I mean 100ft of every color in 3 different sizes (TXL/GXL for the nerds)

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That should cover any additions/corrections that I need to do.

I thought the nerds were into M22759/32?




In all seriousness, the motor looks great in there! And that is a boatload of wire, wow.

Have you used that style AOS before? It's a lot more compact than some of the others on the market.

Only the rich nerds are into Mil spec stuff. I look into it every once in a while but just can't justify the cost of crimpers and components for a street car. Properly spec'd and installed automotive grade components are perfect for...automobiles.

I have not used that AOS before. Doug picked it out and I couldn't convince him to use something that I was familiar with because it was relatively expensive. We will find out!

Just wanted to give you a hard time. That box would be a fortune in Mil Spec, especially if you added a few circular connectors.

Pretty interested to see-it's certainly a nice and compact option if it works well.

Who has it on sale

Del City has periodic 20% off everything sales. The most recent one was last week!

With the stock dash going back in, using stock switches, relays, fuses box for basic function with a dedicated fuse/relay box for the drivetrain makes a lot of sense. Unfortunately we do not have a stock harness for the car. Anyone part out a car want to sell a harness. Does not have to be 100% perfect (90% would be nice) just looking for a solid base to work back to a mostly stock harness.

I've got a complete harness from my 71 1.7 less the wires I snipped for the fog lights and the heater motor. Pulled it all through the grommets and all including the fuse box. I really have no idea what it's worth but you're welcome to it and I could send it out Saturday...
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New tool day!

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Well, not exactly. It has spent more time on "jack stand" than most 914's I picked it up from a neighbor and tore it completely down and then converted the CVT speed adjustment to 3 phase VFD control.

It was 20 deg in the garage and even if I turned on the heater the tools would be freezen so I finished the lathe in the nice warm basement. Still getting it set up but it is making chips and the first part is in the chuck...replacement for the missing steering shaft lug.

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Had a very unproductive weekend in the garage. I intended to get the steering shaft clamp fixed but when I went to finish the new part, the belt on the lathe started slipping. I had a replacement drive belt on hand but still slipped. Apparently my custom mount did not allow the motor to move enough to tighten the belt properly.

Fix.
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Got it working again and then ruined the carbide insert for my cutting tool

I needed to accomplish something so I continued the stockification.

Pulled the custom wiring harness and steering column.
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Installed the replacement steering column.
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Stock harness should be here this week.

Tom asked me to add updates as I did work on his gauges for him. We have a few items up our sleeve and this car will have a full array of needles to keep your eyes off of so you can

First item was a new speedo for the car. Subaru uses an electric speed sensor in their MT5's so this car needed a speedo that was electric drive. So here you go, proper VDO 930.641.508.00 And well like most older VDO speedo's Anton thought it was a great idea to lube the gear shaft with a bit of grease. The grease happens to break down the material the gear was built out of. This is the worse one I have seen in my years of doing these.

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Odometer Gears LTD to the rescue, meet these guys at Hersey, great group of guys, and I knew at some point I would need at least one of their gears.

Since I did not know the miles on Grey, I asked Tom how he wanted to handle the conversion. He said zero it out, it is a for the most part a brand new car.

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Next up get the new gear back in and get this thing assembled.

First up, I polished up the shafts, then added a touch of dry graphite bearing treatment to the shaft. Then repolished the shaft to remove excess per directions. Spins smooth now.

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Overkill Oh heck yeah it is.

Next up add all the gears and e-clips

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Test everything and it works And because of the high definition pictures I see a piece of the old gear in the worm drive on motor, that has been removed.

And it is now together again.

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That is all I can do for now. All the needles will be painted at the same time, so they will all match. So I'll bag this one up and move onto the next one.

When I reassemble I will re-dust all the surfaces to get all the last bits out and off the assembly and the faces.

Looks good, Steve.

Fun with wires!

The harness from Mike looks decent. I have all of the tape off of the harness so that I can inspect and repair any issues. There are a few spliced wires here and there and one that had a few too many electrons moving through it at some point that will need to be replaced. Still need to cut off the protective tubing to check the rest of the wires. Then everything will get wrapped again prior to installation.

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The harness is missing the steering column connectors.

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I have the harness section from Porsti that I can work into the harness but I need to make sure that the connector pin definition is the same between the '71 and '73 columns. Are the columns interchangeable between the years? The schematics look a bit different and not all of the wires in the '73 harness are present in the '71.

I thought the 71 was a 14 pin connector and later was 12. Jeff B would know for sure.

Grey started life as a '75.

I continued plugging away on the harness in the evenings and hit it hard on Saturday. Got it completely unwrapped and cleaned and started fixing some minor nicks/cuts. Noticed some odd terminations of the main power supply wires from the outset but figured that I could swap them out when I reinstalled the steering column connectors.
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I pulled apart the old porsti harness to harvest the steering column connectors. I planned to take the wires as complete as possible to minimize splices. After much studying the wire diagrams between the '71(actually probably a 70) and '73...there are just too many differences to cleanly/efficiently adapt it to work with the '73 column. Add in the two burned circuits and odly spliced power circuits (which probably resulted in the meltage) and I pulled the plug on this harness. Time of death Saturday, February 10th, 4:45pm.
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A quick email to Bruce and what should be a really clean, complete harness from a '74 will be arriving soon. Bruce to the rescue again.

Time to make some progress. I convinced Tom to let me fix the clutch MC install and nearby angry beaver access port.

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MC mount will be replaced with rnellums part.
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Not quite sure what this hole was for but the beaver managed to cut through to the area below the fuel tank making it a multi dimensional fix. First step, cut back to clean margins. Actually second step, first step was to disassemble everything.
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First patch made...only took 3 attempts to get it right.
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View from below the fuel tank.
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The other piece will be much easier to make, then It has been too long since I picked up the torch.

Just about finished up the clutch area.

Started with a little TAD to make the patch panel.

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With gaps like this it will be a pitty to waste them on the MIG...unfortunately it is a bit tight in there to tig overhead, so mig it is.

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After a few adjustments to the body to get the plate to sit flat and a whole bunch of fitting, marking and cutting to get the proper size holes in the proper place.

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The flash really highlighted the welds, going to have to get back in there for a bit more grinding to get them flush.

Third time's a charm!

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'74 harness is pretty much unwrapped and looks pretty good. Few things to fix, remove all traces of the seat belt logic relay and then add in the wires for the new stuff and we will be substantially closer to the first start.

Feels so good to have it done right.

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A little bummed that the paint dried so light. I found another rattle can color that will hopefully be closer.

Finally pulled the trigger on a battery location.

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Knocked out some more CAD work.

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And some more hours on the harness. It is amazing how much dirt can get stuck in a bundle of wires. Sucks to clean it but gives me an opportunity to find any hiding nicks/cracks.

I always thought that the hose running to the radiator looked a bit sloppy. Needing to tuck the spare tire as far to the passenger side as possible to make room for the brake/clutch fluid reservoir gave me an excuse to tidy it up a bit.

Replaced the hose with some more AL tube. This is the return, forgot to take a picture of the top tube.

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Tight.
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While running the final bit of plumbing through the center tunnel I was disgusted enough of the previous removal of the top to convince Tom to source a new center tunnel.

He found a really nice donor. First step of prep was to remove the unnecessary tubes.
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Much better. The throttle tube will be moved to the driver side for cleaner routing of the throttle cable to the reveres intake. It also leaves the center of the tunnel open in case the 1" coolant tubes are not large enough. I will be modifying porsti to run the coolant tubes down the center tunnel and if it works, Marks EG will be run this way also. Plenty of room now!

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Center tunnel was prepped really well, only had to remove the firewall flange.

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Old tunnel almost removed.

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Had to stop to get to the bar for once a year amazing corned beef.

Center tunnel lines sound good. Is there any issue having the coolent lines share space with the fuel lines.

Nope.

I recognize those beads on the end of these tubes. Keep going, keep going.

My center tunnel was trashed and eaten up on the sides almost to the top. I sourced some 2x4" 14 ga tubing that fit right in and welded up fine to the new floor pans. I'll run the coolant lines down the center and top that tube with another one for my brake, fuel lines, and cables. Probably some wiring too plus my shifter. I'm working on a different type of heater setup to eliminate more water running through the middle plus if I bet a leak, the center tunnel is isolated from the rest of the car and won't flood anything - it'll just run out and it eliminates the possibility of hitting coolant lines run under the car. I've never really liked that solution...

I would like to take this time to make a public service announcement.

If you are thinking about making random holes in your car; for the sake of your future self, kids, future owner or humanity in general....please don't. Take the time and/or spend the money to do it right. The owner of this car before Doug is officially on my shit list.

And say off my grass

I was a bit optimistic that yesterday's progress was closer to the finish than the start, it was not. The rear part of the tunnel where it is reinforced for the seat belt anchor is spot welded and seam welded to the floor and had to be ground out. Getting the rear flange out from under the strengthening panel was also quite a joy. I shortened the flange on the replacement part so that it can slide under.

On a happy note, the replacement center tunnel is almost ready to weld in!
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There was a repair at the passenger front of the replacement panel is a bit proud to the bottom of rest of the weld flange and keeping that side from sitting flat. A bit of cutting and it sits flat, now I just need to weld it back together.

Several days of fun compressed into one post.

This is the repaired area that needed adjustment. Didn't get a post repair picture.
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I couldn't help myself, had to wire brush and paint the floor under the center tunnel. Just used weld through primer.
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Holes for the IC heat exchanger. I am pretty sure I would not have been able to drill these holes with the center tunnel in place.
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Center tunnel is painted with weld through primer on the underside and another poor attempt at matching the grey body color on the outside. Was warm enough to bake it in the sun today!
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The calm before the storm.
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After much mig welding. It is amazing how much smoke a little bit of burning bed liner gives off.
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Center rib drops perfectly back in place.
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Gap's were so good that I decided to use the TIG.
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Partially TIG'd. Decided to call it Beer'thirty after sticking the tungsten for the third time. What an awkward welding position.
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Looks so much better. Much welding and a bit of painting and this task will be complete.

Looks amazing Scott.

Happy Beer-thirty.

That is one wicked repair!

Small potatoes compared to what you are tackling!

Nice progress Scott.

Sorry I couldn't help you with the replacement piece. Mine was toast. Car looks much healthier with the metal back in place.

With the center console in place and the throttle cable tube relocated to the driver side I was able to mock up the throttle cable.
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Bad picture, you can sort of see the red wire in place of the throttle cable.
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The length from the tip of the throttle tube to the stock Suby cable mount is 140cm.

Throttle tube is stock length.
Manifold side is all stock Suby.

Tom, is this enough info to specify the cable to 914 Rubber?

Thanks, Scott. That should do it.

Tom

How do you eat an elephant?

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With a proper three chamber Tilton fluid reservoir. But you are correct one piece at a time.

I was busy cleaning hubs tonight, one piece at a time

Had they day off and took the opportunity to finish the welding on the tunnel replacement.

Bad things happen when you try to push through dirty tungsten. It is amazing how a little contamination pop can ruin the arc. Proper thing to do is to stop and resharpen. this is what happens when you don't. Arc gets wide, takes more amps to melt the filler, more contamination on the tungsten, then blop...
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Took a bid of grinding but pretty happy with the recovery.
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Welding finished. This thing is stiff.
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Tomorrow the squirt gun welds get ground.

And Done. Now you can cover it with carpet.
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Also fixed the missing steering rack clamp stud.
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Yet another repair that will never be noticed.
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Time to get back to some fun stuff.

Moving on to final assembly.

Good place to start is the hydraulic clutch master cylinder. After pressing out the studs I realized that the flat for the stud head is too small for the bolt.
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I thought about trying to grind it flat but it would never be really flat and if someday down the line it needed to be replaced it could not be replaced w/o modification. So I machined some step washers.
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Check that off the list.
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I've been watching from the sidelines for several months now, shedding the occasional tear for how awesome this build is, and that it's in such good hands. This is truly going to be the baddest-ass 914 on the road.

I talked to Tom last night, and got him some of the info on the map in the ECU.

Scott: If you download the Hydra software, you'll be able to pull the map off of it. I uploaded the custom map to the ECU already. Here are some specifics about it.

I told the guy that wrote the map for me the engine specs, turbo specs, and that I was using an air-to-water intercooler. The also knew that it was only driving two wheels. As he told me, the map that he wrote was "close" but would need refinement to operate at peak performance. Once I got it running, he was going to VPN into the computer attached to it, and then make the final adjustments. I forget the guy I talked to, that wrote the map, but the company was Element Tuning. (I don't have access to the email account that I'd conversed with him through, or I'd let you know.)

The laptop that Tom has, has the installation file for the software on it. He should be able to get that to you. I have no clue where to download it anymore. (a quick Google search wasn't much help either.) I DO believe I'd emailed you the pin-out for the ECU a long time ago. I can dig that up again if you need it.

Hope that helps guys. I can't wait to see this thing on the road!

Update: Found the link to download the software: http://nemesisems.com/software/

Hi Doug, great to hear from you. I wasn't sure how you were handling someone else taking over the project. Glad that it is only occasional tears. I am not sure I would be so composed given similar circumstances.

I have been playing with the SW for quite a while. It has very good info on the wiring interface that I have been using to confirm your pin out sheet. I also wanted to get comfortable with sensor checking/scaling/debugging.

Regarding the MAP, I have not powered up the ECU so I can not download the data from it. I assumed that the MAP was on the laptop that went with the car so I had Tom send it. The MAP he sent had notes describing a completely different setup with a boost target of 41psi! He is going to send the other MAPs. I am sure we can find the one that matches with what is in the ecu, otherwise I will just start it with what is in there.

I have to think that Scott helped to save this build. While Doug did a lot of heavy lifting, there are still a ton of details that could have been a make it or break it result. I hate it when projects get pushed in a corner.

You are right about that, Mark.

If Scott hadn't agreed to help, I wouldn't have been able to do the deal.

Fun with sheetmetal. The last major bit of fabrication on the project is to make the shroud for the radiator intake. I had mentally budgeted a day in the garage to get it done...ya, that didn't quite work out. When I made the Radiator mount I had a general idea of what I wanted to do. When it came down to actually doing it I didn't like my first idea. After several cardboard templates and much pondering I ended up reworking the radiator mount a bit to add mounting flanges. More CAD and then 2 tries per side in aluminum I think that it is almost something I am happy with.

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The tops of the side pieces will be bent in to make a flange to mount the top piece to. The top piece will need to be bent to sit flat on the front lip. May have to get out the bead roller and try out the tipping dies. I am sure this will only take a few ruined pieces to get right! The shape over the radiator is not final.
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CAD
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The clevis for the clutch MC arrived and is a really nice piece. Unfortunately the pin is larger than the bushings in the pivot. The slot is also quite a bit wider than the pivot. I am guessing that most people just pop out the bushing and run it. Effective but not something that I could do and sleep at night. I'll enlarge the hole and make a pair of step bushings.

I dug into the clutch linkage tonight. I was pleasantly surprised that the shaft came out without removing the entire pedal assembly

I was a bit harsh on the bushing in my last post. When installed it is just undersized. Once out is is right at 8mm. Pin in the clevis is 7.90mm. A shave with a 8mm reamer when installed and it would be perfect. The side to side gap is definitely excessive so I will still make a pair of step bushings.

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Those cuts for the radiator sheet metal look really clean and smooth..
What are you using to make the cuts, and what guage is the metal?
I'm asking because I have to to the same thing for my project -
I'm assuming that's aluminum?

It is aluminum. Thickness: 1.5mm

As for the cuts, I start with the longest straight edge on the shear cut edge of the sheet metal. Instant straight! Other edges are cut on the band saw, tidied up on the belt sander and final tweaking with a file.

Just take your time....lots of it!
And don't be afraid to start over.

Good luck.

The Porsti Power Tour thrash is over, time to get back to Grey. I spent a good part of the weekend and the 4th cleaning and organizing the garage back to a workable state. Now Grey is back on the operating table.

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Pushing it around reminded me how much rubbing is happening. Driver side is rubbing on the inside, passenger on the outside. Need to get a base alignment done to see if they will fit perfectly in the limited space or if some trimming and precision spacing will be necessary.

Just wow! Keep up the good work!
I am still waiting on Dyno. Went a different way, so now I have to source some mirrors.
Then seat belts and touch up on paint.