Thanks for the info on the sleeve Andyrew.
Bill.

Love love love seeing progress! Keep it up!

I haven't been able to work on the car all week as I've been iching to do, and my wife is going to the Catalina Wine Mixer so I'm going to be with Alina this weekend and unable to make any progress.

So while I had half an hour I recorded a couple vids showing progress and another showing how I make these connections.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S--X4WNd4p4



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrMz2ymxUNg

Odd I thought I posted about my repairing of the instrument cluster... I guess not..

I bought a $25 replacement LCD screen and installed it about a month ago when my daughter was asleep (perfect project for the kitchen counter).

Only drawback was I don't have a hot air solder.. so depinning the micro solder joints didn't go well.... However the pins I destroyed happened to be blank pins that went nowhere.

I was able to get the new LCD board on and installed. Flux was a big factor here to making this work.

Regardless the screen was fixed and I was pretty happy with the result. I should have gone with the OEM screen as if your not looking directly at it the screen doesn't show anything but those were tripple the price and difficult to find. It should work great though as the screen just shows diagnostic data and warning information.

Progress from tonight.

Pulled the windshield wiper motor and added a connector to it. I'll need to do some testing to see what wires ai need to hook up to it but I have the factory wiring connector to the Audi intact still and I have tested a couple signal wires so I shouldn't have any issues with it actually working. It's just a question of can I get multiple speeds out of the system.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment


I then also connected up the rear lighting to the OEM connectors. I still need to trace the reverse light but everything else is tested correct.
Click to view attachment

I hope to get more done this weekend. I'd really like to get the electronics testing in the car fully functional again by November.

This past month was busy with a vacation to New Orleans as well as a business trjp and a hell of a lot of stress at work.

There is such thing as the Catalina wine mixer? I thought that was just in step brothers.

It was an event that was made from the show. In reality its just a wine party on the island. They did have a helicopter for people to take pictures with.
https://www.visitcatalinaisland.com/event/c...wine-mixer-2018

Andrew, you’re a man with lots of patience….
I can appreciate fiddling with electronics and wiring but PATIENCE is king.
Continue the good work and updates!!!
Oscar

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zoc0Mr5Kpkg



Figured out the wipers (I think)!

Your having entirely too much fun.

So you're controlling your wipers from the stalks on the column, right? Do you have the intermittent functions and still using the stock 914 wiper motor?

Yes, in the video I'm demonstrating me using the Audi wiper stall and controlling the 914 wipers with the 5 stages.

Off
Single sweep
Intermittent (delay variable)
Low speed
High speed

Where's your Audi wiper relay? That's what I used on mine.

It's the big brown(looked it up, and I can hear it clicking at the appropriate times) one with all the other relays. It's still there. The pink plug was to go to the chassis harness so there was no additional relay.

Then you should be fine. I though the wiper connection would be harder to figure out when I went through this process. Glad you got it so quickly.

I had it labeled back from when I originally was tracing all the wire connections. Then I double checked it when I thinned down the dash harness.

3 1/2 months since the last update. Let me tell you all how much I've not progressed


Winter has been busy for me and family things, so I havent spent much time in the garage. The 944 developed an oil leak that is leaking onto the header so I cant drive it now like I want to. So i'll need to take it apart after I get the 914 back up and running (I can still drive it now, just smokey.. and I dont like oil fires..)



914 rewire progress.

I completed what I believe to be everything on the dash and engine side of the rewire.

I cut a new hole large enough for the new wiring harness to go through. I have decided I am going to use a small CV joint, cut it in half and glue it back together, then sandwich it with a cover plate to the firewall. I couldnt find a firewall grommet large enough to put my large engine harness through oddly enough. I needed about 3" x 2" Nothing was large enough and this seems like the best solution.

I put the engine harness and connected it all up, then placed my interior/dash harness inside the car and started mounting and hooking things up to test.


So far my tests resulted in the following.

1. Horn is stuck on (steering wheel wasnt even on the car). I found the horn wire to the steering column and unplugged it. Looks like my clock spring is broken so I'll get a new one of those.

2. Intercooler pump is on with just battery power no key. It should be on keyed power. I will need to rewire that.

3. Intercooler controller has no power. Either I have the wrong power source, a fuse is blown, or I wired it to the fuel pump wire (Entirely possible) and it wont turn on without the car being on. I'll swap the wire source to the keyed on and try again.

4. Brake likes non responsive. I traced this down to it being wired incorrectly. (I cut this connector off accidently and had to refind all my wires. But in the process of that I added some connectors on the engine bay side to be able to unplug the rear lights from the dash harness (Good choice IMHO).

5. Tail lights non responsive. Same as above.

6. Key ignition doesnt turn the car over. Suspect its because I have the wire from the starter disconnected I have the car battery in the interior as its the really small one and I was thinking of relocating it to save on the engine bay clutter.



What I do know that works/powers on correctly.

Headlights
High beams
Turn signals
Hazard
Wipers
AFR guage
Boost controller
Water pump controller


My wife (Six Sigma blackbelt..) asked me how much longer to complete the car for it to be ready for WCR 2019 (Planning on trailering it down) and I told her probably 200 hours to which she gave me this look

So then she's tasked me with making a list of the items that I need to do prior to WCR. So next post will be that list along with my anticipated timeframe for completing each line. Im thinking the 200 hours is going to go by very fast...

Six sigma will get you every time.. Good luck

I'm only a Six Sigma Green Belt. She can kick my ass all over the Project Management World...

914 to do list

**Mandatory total: 121 hrs
Non mandatory total: 214hrs

Electrical: 32
**Fix tail light issue. 1
**Fix brake light issue 1
**Fix intercooler controller 2
**Fix intercooler pump 1
**Fix Horn 1
**Finalize testing of electrical components Test drive setup and heat cycle. 5
**Remove harnesses 2
**Finalize engine harness cleaning 3
**Finalize dash harness cleaning 6
**Reinstall harnesses 10

Steering: 40
**Mill down new steering shaft for steering component retry. 10
**Remove steering components 5
**Fabricate steering joint mounts 10
**Reweld system and test 5
**Adjust system 10

Suspension: 23
Fabricate front sway bar arms 20
Install and adjust 2
Test 1


Brakes:7
Bleed brakes 3
**Rebuild pedal cluster 4

Transmission: 16
**Replace transmission with spare 15
**Inspect clutch 1
**Check for rear main seal leak 0

Engine:29
**Drain fuel 2
**Replace fuel filters 3
Replumb fuel system for cleaner look 10
Clean engine of oil residue 2
Look for source of oil leak. 2
Fix oil leak 10


Body: 75
Fabricate trunk firewall 20
Fabricate and install roll cage 30
Fix targa top knicks 5
Repaint bumpers 5
Clean up front trunk for new paint 10
Clean up rear Trunk and paint 5

Interior:84
Design Dash Layout 3
Foam up dash layout 1
Finalize Dashboard 20
Fiberglass and prep dash for upholstery
Design and build rear firewall 20
Design and build center console 20
Design and build door cards 20



Send dash, Seats, Door cards, Center console, and Rear firewall to upholster for finalizing. (My tests revealed I don't have the skill to do this…)


Spares for WCR:
Trans
Axle
Clutch Disk
Serpentine belt
Shift Cables
Relays
Fuses
Fuel Pump filter
Fuel pump
Oil
Plugs
Coil packs



Items to purchase:
Spare trans $200
Spare clutch disk 200
Serpentine belt 20
Shift cables 150
Fuel pump filters 150
Fuel pump 75
Coil pack
Fiberglass door cards 200
Houndstooth cloth orange 3 yards 200
Upholstery work 2500
Roll cage material 150


I'll come up with a game plan over the next week

Well everything was going really well. I kept finding minor things and fixing them but I got to the point where I ran out of minor things to fix.

I fixed all the electrical issues noted earlier with the tail lights and the intercooler pump and controller.

Today I decided to forgo my notion of replacing the fuel (2 years old?) With some good fuel and try and start it.

First there was no crank, solved that with the signal wire to the starter.

Then there was no fire.

Pulled #1 plug, loads of fuel. Checked spark and there was spark.

So now we have timing and compression. Ecu could be programmed wrong for a start condition but it started 6 months ago . Same goes for compression.

After checking the codes I found the predominant ones were the following:
Crank sensor
Cam sensor
Temp sensor.

Any of those being bad could cause a no start issue.

Now I've changed the crank sensor a good 6 times trying to solve this as it's the most likely culprit and the coolant sensor at least 3. The cam sensor could he bad but I just doubt it.

So I decide that I need to check the wiring again. Check the pins from the ecu and power/ground to the connectors and every connector shows good oms for each pin.


At this point I see a couple options

1. bad cam sensor
2. Bad fuel
3. Bad crank sensor (who knows, I could just be that unlucky...)
4. Bad coolant sensor (I have a new spare I bought with my new connector I had installed)
5. Bad ecu (I have 2 spares that will start the car and neither work)
6. ???

I'm going to start with bad fuel and also order a new cam and crank sensor.

I currently have the engine harness out of the car again (getting good at that... Only took half an hour). I'll clean it up a hair with some tape and maybe some loom/zip ties and reinstall it.

My wife has been giving me good garage time but she's counting down the hours... I told her I'm in troubleshooting mode now and didn't account for there to be this much issues with getting the car restarted... She seems to be ignoring that... funny, so am I...

Andrew - You have the patience of Job. Watching you with the wiring thing is giving me second thoughts about one of my latest hair-brained ideas.
If you'd like a break to bend some tubing, let me know!
Chris

Hang in there. I know what it's like chasing down Gremlins. When I started my conversion I had planned on doing what you are doing. Steering column. dash, ignition switch, etc. One day reality smacked me in the face and reminded me that at this stage in life I shouldn't be piddling around so I deleted that section of the conversion. After reading thru your trial and tribulations I'm glad that I didn't pursue that phase.

Chris,

Very much appreciate the compliment and offer. Next couple months I think would be a great time to come up and bend some tubing. I dont think I'll bring the car this time, yours is pretty much the same

The wiring part isnt bad, its the troubleshooting thats been the biggest headache and its probably all me doing it wrong...

Man that is such a pain in the ass. Similar thing happened to me when I tidied up the wiring.

Are you getting ANY ignition at all? Does it even cough? If it's the temp sensor it will usually fire after a lot of trying and then run like crap for a few minutes until it gets some heat in it. Had to hold the gas pedal to the floor for mine to start when the temp sensor went bad.

Off the wall thing to check...is you battery good and fully charged? Some ECUs require a minimum amount of voltage to fire the engine up. Probably fine but good thing to check.

Temp sensor is new, the Audi has a thing where it will shut off ignition after 5 seconds of cranking. I havent tried to touch the throttle with it cranking as it always lit at the first crank when it wanted to fire.

Battery just got a fresh charge.


It didn't cough or anything, which I found really odd since I have spark and fuel. I'm going to try my process and see if doing all that fixed the problem. If not I'm going to try starter fluid and then talk to my tuner about doing something with the start up tune to fix it.

Yeah that's weird that you got nothing at all. Good call on the starter fluid. It should do SOMETHING if you blast it with that.

I forgot to add the wire from the ECU to the + side of the starter initially which tells the ECU it's cranking..again unlikely to be your problem but something to check.

unless your cam timing is way off, you sure this thing has not jumped a tooth or two? Might want to run a compression check just to make sure you're not chasing your tail. If you already done that, then I am out of options.

I'll give it a check. The biggest problem is the car would run perfect when running. So it makes most sense its a sensor issue. I mean the car obviously has ~ 350-400hp on only about 16lbs of boost (Its way way faster than the v8 has ever been) so for the cam timing to be that far off would be really suspect. Also its a manual tensioner and run a hair tight (new belt) so it really shouldnt jump.

But I really do appreciate all your guys thoughts

If you have fuel and spark then all that is left is air... the ecu isn't seeing it via MAF or PS or whatever yours is.

I was running my mafless tune (my most street able tune) so it basically has a map sensor for monitoring boost pressure and wideband 02 sensor. It actually works really really well.

I have a (very expensive) blow through MAF and a tune for it but that particular tuner never got it right before I had my issue that has put me down for the count.... It's apparently very difficult to tune with but once setup it's amazing. I have noticed more torque with this tune. Not sure it's a better AFR or the tuner just threw some bottom end timing at the setup.

I can log my MAF readings to see what we're looking at. Also I could check my 02 readings.

At this point it sound like you did all of the obvious trouble shooting. Next step should be to check the cam/crank sensors at the ecu with an oscilloscope.

I FIXED IT!


Ugh.

I have successfully hot started the car. 5 times in a row full warm with no issues.


My course of action.

1. New gas.
2. New cam sensor
3. New crank sensor.


What fixed it? I don't know. I did one at a time and none of them did it. So I was looking around for new options and noticed I forgot to ground the ECU/engine harness. Ugh. Ground the harness and it fires right up.


So I'm going to swap the cam sensor back and if it doesn't start I'll know that's the issue. I never tried that option as I never got the codes for it.


Ran the engine for about 5 minutes without the water pump on so it got to temp faster, but at least one of the lifters didn't pump up so I'll need to get some miles on it or pull the valve cover and hit the lifter a couple times. Worse case pull the cams and clean out the lifters.



With the engine back in operational condition I pulled the dash harness out and began the final clean up on that. I pulled all the fused power wires that were not used, ran appropriate lengths of wire and cleaned it up for future use. I'll run things like the stereo, heater, lighting, ect off these wires.

I'll finish that up in the next couple nights and focus back on my laundry list of items to tackle.

Woot, Woot! Hopefully, you're all done with this phase of the work. You deserve lots of credit for your "sticktoitism"!
The bad news is that you're first on my list to call when I start in on my wiring!

Big CONGRATS to you, Andrew! Way to keep after it.

Freaking great news. When I saw your post this AM I thought to myself, "Man, I hope he gets to the problem soon". Looks like you did. I expect we'll see you at WCR this year young man. OH, BTW. CONGRATULATIONS!

So Cool!

Spent a bit more time on the wiring, getting everything in place.

Video on that and my ADD explanation at 1am...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LA80L7vFC8k


I picked up the following spares and parts.

Fuel pump $35
Clutch disk $60
Fuel filter and spare element $80
Shift cables $60
Transmission $200


Transmission was a great find. 30k mile trans that had been sitting forever and just had one rear bolt tab broken. I'm using that bolt for an exhaust mount on I'll JB weld and drill and tap it.

I spent some time last night tearing the axle flanges off (Trans Code EHV has 108mm stub axles.... I use 100mm.) And then pulled the diff cover and removed the diff. I couldn't get the dowl pin out with my tools so I have some punches on the way. I have a friction type LSD to go in and will need to machine my spider gears like Mike Bellis did but it's a great while I'm in there project....

I'm replacing the trans as my car won't shift for beans. I thought it was the clutch but after readjustment it doesnt seem that way, I'm going to rebuild the pedal cluster and but some new brass bushings in as it has a bit of slop and maybe that will help as well.


Progress is moving nicely

I'll hand over all my wiring tools/supplies to you as I have buttloads of stuff now and hopefully wont be needing it.

Whatever you dont use just give back

I'll bring it with me when we finishing up the cage (Any dates in the coming months work better than others?).

Don't forget I'm going to bring down that spool gun. I'll bring some scrap aluminum too if you want to practice.

Oh, I think you meant to reply to Chris in your last post. But we are all happy that your making such great progress.

Thanks for catching that. I edited it for clarity

Being retired (don't hate me!), I can pretty much make anything work. Let me know when you're thinking is good for you and we'll get something on calendar.
Talk soon.

Some progress.

Took apart the new EHV trans to remove the flanges and the diff. Added the LSD that I had been saving for a while for this trans after learning the hard way that a roll pin goes in/out only one way.
Click to view attachment

I still need to remove the 100mm flanges from the trans on the car. I'll do that when I swap the trans and put fluid in the new one.
Click to view attachment

Also I checked the gearing on the new trans. First is slightly shorter and third is shorter as well which is good. Should make 3rd gear a bit more usable instead of just a "throw me to jail officer" gear.
Click to view attachment

I finished the rebuild on the pedal cluster which just entailed replacing the outer two bushings on the clutch and bending the spring for the clutch. The OE clutch spring springs it the wrong way for what I needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ze3HdJ-h7D4


I determined why my clutch didn't do anything for the first 1/8 of pedal movement, the spot where the roll pin goes in the clutch shaft was ovaled. So after fussing with it I decided to just fix it right now has perfect operation and zero slop.
Click to view attachment

Combine this with a little more adjustment and the spring and it feels like I have another 1/4 throw of the clutch. This might fix my shifting problem all by itself. I'll try it before I throw in the new trans so I know if the old one is a good spare or not.
Actually really excited to finally have a 914 that shifts well... Never ever have had that.


I plumbed in the new fuel filter in the old location just so I can do some driving around. Fiddled with some other stuff as well. Very close to testing it on the road and going through my long checklist and getting back to interior and suspension/brakes.

You shouldn't need that return spring with the hydraulic setup.

I would have thought the same thing, but its not true. The master cyl doesnt push on the clutch enough, again probably my shifting issue and I possibly could have adjusted it differently but I tested the full travel of the hydraulic slave and master prior to building my pedal system.

I'll give it a test drive this weekend and we'll find out for sure.

Regardless if this was my shifting issue or not, I like the gear ratios of the new trans better and it gives me a spare for when I start turning up the boost to blow trans levels.

Hot start issue is back.

I have a workaround for the future. The car starts every 2-3 times if the throttle is held wide open. Vs starting every 20-30 times. So I'm Ok with that for WCR.

Test drive with more clutch throw was good in all gears except first which ground pretty good. I will swap new trans in before WCR.


I however have been busy... With what?


Dash.

Photo dump of dash progress.


Made with expanding foam, I'll be glassing over it. I have been running into issues with the dash warping so I need to glass the top for strength then I'll finish the front and guage area. Finally I'll work on the bottom as a separate piece. Blue tape line shows rough beltline

Also

Climate system. Video shows it best. Sorry I tend to be wordy.

I needed to mount this before I could finalize the dash to ensure fitment.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEVlfUMLAd0

I've been debating on my use of dash vents. I think I will need to fabricate some out of steel. I dont need the fins to move, but I do want something that GOES with the dash.

This pic goes over what my thoughts are for a custom vent.

Flat faced and 3 sides and a smooth contour with the dashline.

Not sure on my fin placement or quantity. Still thinking it out.

Nice to see ingenuity....keep it up, see ya at WCR



Oscar