Inside door jamb welded piece. None of my tools for grinding or sanding would fit in this area. So had to rely on primer and sealer to button up. Not the best but weather proofed.

seam seal & primer

No, aluminum cases have been pricey for awhile. You just bought well. I sold one for $12K last year and that was a core short block. It would be hard to find a good running engine for less than $20K these days.

nice work Dion. Keep at it.
Take it from my mistake and make sure your door gaps are still good before you get all that painted. I had to backtrack after having my whole car painted and cut out some extra metal in that spot as it squeezed my door gap down.

I should be installing your old 2056 by end of summer

“I should be installing your old 2056 by end of summer”

That’s good news Joseph! Sorry to hear of the mishap with the doors. Especially after
the paint! Thanks for the reminder.

Send some pics would love to see it.

Ok gentlemen need advice. So my flares were welded on, not in the ideal way.
They used an overlap weld instead of butt welds. Removing and starting over is not on the table. Although that’s the ultimate answer. I’d like to prevent further rust. I have some surface rust below the thinly applied undercoating. I wire wheeled off the undercoating. I was thinking of using an acid etch and spraying it in all the seams then
use a rust “encapsulate” type spray and then prime/paint then undercoat.
Any other “ chemical suggestions for getting in those overlapping seams?
Thanks guys.

Seams

Also need to re do the seam seal on the rear of front fender where it meets chassis.
And a little welding.

Damage that needs welding up. Lower portion in front of long. Base of front fender.

So had a suggestion to use the Eastwood Internal Frame coating.
I had that on hand. This stuff creeps into crevices so it made sense.
After washing it down with the “ Fast Etch” and cleanup with pre paint prep,
I hit it with the “frame coating” then coated with rubberized undercoating.
Didn’t get to the welding today. Drying time of the chemicals ate into weld time.
That’s for another weekend. Thanks for looking in!

Etch turning rust to black with the phosphates.

Frame coating and seam sealer

Undercoating

Undercoating on overlap welded areas

Ha ha just like me older and hopefully wiser,good skills on the safety gear,I admit to being a bit slack @ times and payed the price,last we while I have 2 cut fingers with 1mm cutting wheels decided to wear mig/tig gloves from that point....makes sense.
If your flairs were overlap welded that's not too much of an issue as long as the steel was "keyed up" with a course abrasive and the filler hasn't cracked you should be fine,never been a fan of fillers but if prepped properly generally they are fine.
I understand this was done a while back if still holding up well on the exterior leave it,there's a lot you can do on the inside that's not seen afterall.
Good luck mate .

What kind of metal etch are you using? I have some areas I would like to apply this to on my car and I have never used an etch applied by hand that converts rust. Please share.

Hey Ben, it was Eastwood “Fast Etch”
Shop personnel explained to me it etches and will
coat the rust with a phosphate. I used it in spray form, I let soak in for around 45 minutes. It then needs to be cleaned off. I used pre paint prep to clean it up. Then I used the frame interior coating.
Cheers, Dion

As near as I can tell, Fast Etch is comparable to Ospho or any other phosphoric acid etcher/converter/protectant. I'm using KleanStrip brand form Home Depot now that Jasco discontinued theirs. Same as Ospho but cheaper.

Looking good Dion!

So can you prime right over this stuff or ?

For the Fast Etch brand once it’s cleaned off with acetone or pre paint prep
cleaner it can be primered over.

Left front fender buttoned up.

Yep. I neutralize with water and after it is dry, use a red scotch brite pad to knock off any loose phosphate, then clean and dewax as usual. PPG even has a note in their epoxy primer tech sheet that use of this type of rust converter improves adhesion. Of course, they want to sell you their brand and outrageous prices.

Having never done it this way on my paint jobs prior should this be applied to all bare metal then scotch brite and spray primer?

Looks like that stuff is about 15 dollars.. Gonna give that a try. Dion thanks for bringing this up ..now gonna make my car better in the end

No worries Ben, and thanks again for the muffler bracket & the straps info!

Plenty more bodywork to be done.

I told Dave I’m gonna have to get the whole car resprayed.
In for a pound in for a penny! The paint job is over 14 years now, it always
had it’s blemishes. Chance to rectify all that.
Maybe have it done by Octeenerfest.....
Dave .... Hehehehe

Just wanted to give a shout out to Eric and the gang at PMB.
Received my restored S calipers and regulator today as well as the brake line kit.
Thanks a bunch guys. They look awesome,& I’m sure they’ll provide plenty of STOP!

This afternoon repaired the remaining rust issue on the right front fender wheelhouse/longitudinal area. Cut off the offending piece. Made
a new one in as close a profile as I could. Using the workbench vise and a hammer to make the bend. Tacked it in. I’m pleased as to how it came out.
Listening to Ben, Chris, Brent & Dave, I think I’m finally gettIn the hang of this
welding business!

New shape offered up

Tacked

Clean up

Fin!

Looks great!

Nothing exciting today except for the cheap high. Man even while wearing the 3M
NIOSH respirator those fumes creep in!
I sanded the engine side of the firewall yesterday and today I coated it with
Epoxy primer.

Question fellas. I’m working on the right side sill next. I have six holes. Centered 6” apart.
Can someone verify if that is correct for the factory sill plates.
Mine are packed away. Not at hand to check. I have a little welding to repair one as it
really isn’t s circular hole anymore and I want to redrill properly afterwards.
Thanks.

Ok, Dave says just weld them all close and redrill when
the rust issue is fixed and I can then use the sill as a template.
It’s great when common sense prevails. Thanks bro!
I was ready to make it more complicated.

Worked on passenger side sill area.
Welded up the too numerous holes for rocker panels and sill plate.
Also removed some surface rust. A general cleanup.
Next up will be working on the left rear quarter panel/fender.

Welded & cleaned

Primered & seam sealed.

Done

That’s some fine looking work. Looks like you don’t even need help. You got this. Let me know when you want to borrow the finish gun. Hahaha

WOW! Nice save with the edit. Splitter! :-)

Ok, trying not to piss off Brent anymore while working on 944s...the weather in PA finally broke. I can breathe again. Damn humidity!
So did some masking around windows and dash to protect them.
Started sanding and cleaning the cabin floor and trunk floor so I could epoxy prime them.

Cabin

Trunk

Application of the epoxy primer.

Trunk primed

& finally interior firewall primed.

Hey Dion - good to see you back at it!
It's got to be a great feeling to see paint instead of bare metal, eh? Keep it coming, you're making great progress!

(And selfishly): So that's what a complete fire wall looks like...!

Sweet! Looking good. About time you stopped fiddling with that water pumper and got back to your project