Yes, getting the bare metal protected is a good feeling.
We had such hi temps and humidity I wasn’t sure if the primer would adhere proper.
So finally was able to do this. bought different colours of primer
but it will all be the same later. Now on to more difficult tasks: left rear fender &
The all important Left long/kick up and console.

Thanks guys

I just read through this entire thread and have no idea how I missed all this. I did not realize you were doing anything to this extent. You are way too modest about your skillset...truly impressive work! Looking forward to stopping by at some point soon and seeing it in the metal.

Thanks for those kind compliments Brian.

Started prep work on drivers rear quarter panel.
Removed the undercoating with heat gun, left the flare alone since that is
paint and not tar. Found yet another hole lurking. Apparently minding its own
business till the flap disc found him out. Oh how I miss my complete car.....
Oh well we are here to make it whole again. There is a nice chunk missing by the tail lamp I’ll be utilizing a good piece from Garold. I’ll prep
that next week hopefully. So some before and after pics:

Unbelievable the amount of seam sealer that was around the snorkel. Dug that out.
I have a new snorkel and slam panel for that area.
Removed the ..urethane? Foam from the panel as well.

Ugly metal:

Foam

Sail panel damage

Panel

If any one has a compromised panel but not in the area I need to repair
would gladly like to have it so I could make a patch.
Let me know what ya have...thanks for checking in.

Let me check the scrap pile in the morning. I had a pair of extra sail panels that were too far gone to use to replace mine, but I don't remember where they were damaged. We might get lucky.

Thanks Brent

Pulled it out of the scrap pile. It's a bit crusty under vent tube but looks like it might clean up and cover the area you need to patch. If you think it has promise, I can hit it with the media blaster this evening and send more pics. If you decide you want it, pm me with your address and how much you want cut off and it's yours.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Brent that should do the trick. Will save me trying to duplicate that contour. Thanks buddy!

Oh look , a real snorkel! We can use that

I broke down and bought a snorkel from RD.
Ya guilted me. I’m diggin the racing stripes on the yellow/ green colour!
Yeah baby, groovy!

Ah! I wish I'd have known. My recollection is that part isn't cheap and you can have this one for free.

All part of the adventure!

I was about to say "Forget the snorkel. You're in deep enough that you need full on SCUBA gear!"
Look great, Dion. You're really getting there!

Nice work.

When you get your car on the road if you find you have any vibrations even subtle ones in the front wheels or run out in the hubs, wheels that mystifies all diagnostics start here.

Those are high spots where the race bottoms out which occurs when removing the old races with a drift, punch etc I usually take an old race slice it with a cut off wheel, a rubber drum on a drill motor, some 600 grit lapping compound and spin the "race lapping tool" for about 20 seconds until the high spots are gone. (hubs are soft aluminum)

Yours aren't bad but could show up as a gremlin later. I've seen hubs much worse that I have repaired were murdered by the BFH.

On the Pelican site I have seen a 50+ times guy replaces bearings and races then shows back up three month later with an issue and a new vibration thread then later needlessly replacing hubs.

The high spots are small but when you extend that small rise to tread distance or wheel bead it turns into preventable amount of run out. The tapered rollers will last longer also.

Jeff , thanks for the heads up! Would never had known. I really appreciate that. Great info. Always learning something.
Cheers, mate.

PS: love your thread, tons of info.

No body work updates ...but just wanted to share a story in which I wanted to honor my friend Jim McLeod (type47). Before the time of his passing he and I were both doing
2.4L six conversions. So we had a friendly wager going on as to whom was
gonna get on the road first. Well Jim we both are!
I was fortunate to obtain Jim’s 2.4L yellow fan/engine shroud at the recent picnic honoring him. So it’s now home on my engine. I hope his spirit will enjoy
some road trips with me and my 914 friends. It may be silly to some
but has meaning to me.

Yellow

I personally think that's awesome.. I am all kinds of about these type of thing's. Everytime I see someone that has served in the military I shake their hand, everytime I look at something my dad has given me I think about back to my childhood and remember the time he gave it to me. Your tribute to Jim is just fantastic..

Couldn't have said it better. Very cool and now you will never be lonely in your car.

Thanks fellas. Appreciate your sentiments.

Duplicate

Back to this
Rear left tail lamp area. Swiss cheese.
Nothing too exciting just documenting.

Duplicate post

Donor piece

Upper outer portion repair

Next: rear just above rubber cap region. Offending piece cut out.

Patch piece test fit.

For those wondering about all those other holes on the perimeter those are the spot weld holes
which will be addressed when mounting panel to car structure. Will be working on sail panel tomorrow and get some primer on the bare metal.

Worked on the sail panel a bit. Brent thanks mate!
The piece you sent worked out fine. When the finish body work is done all should look
proper. Glad it has metal back where it should be.
Here’s some photos of progress. Next on the “ to do “ list, will be the Left console/ longitudinal.

Patch piece being sized up

Cut & weld

Some primer

Hey look at that! I'm glad that old rusty turd still had a use for someone. Nice work.

Thanks boss, I’m trying.

Went back to work on the sail panel patch again.
Wasn’t really happy that some flash rust had shown through the primer.
Sanded that area again and prepped. Then used some self etching primer there
since it has the “zinc” content in it.

Flipped the fender over and used the same treatment I did for the other flares.
Where as my flares had been “lap welded” as opposed to “butt weld” , I wanted to add
an extra means chemically to warn off problems.
I used Eastwood’s internal chassis coating to have it creep into the small crevices of the welded areas. Of course cleaned it thoroughly first. Then I used “rubber undercoating” on the flare itself. The condition of paint on the inner flare was quite sound. After prepping and cleaning the rest of the interior of the fender I then sprayed with epoxy primer. This should keep till the rest of the chassis is done. Then finish bodywork can begin.... that’s a bit aways yet!

I know this car was a COTM & I appreciate that very much.
However the paint job was 14 years old and was just applied on the topsides.
No door jambs or underhood areas. So since we’re in for a pound in for a penny,
I’m addressing areas that need attention. I’m not calling this a restoration but a freshening. This is my build, my hot-rod. Not concours by any means. So if ya see flaws
oh well I’m doing my best. So this weekend I tackled the headlite hardware and
the buckets. Sanded the headlite hardware, primered and gave em the zinc phosphate look with a spray bomb from Eastwood.

Sanded

Sanded

Paint

Sunday’s chore was the bucket area and the front portion of the rain channel around the hood. Also did a re-spray of the floor of the frunk. It was a bit scuffed up.

Primer & Paint on channel

The buckets & frunk

P