Proper CDI box placed. 3 pin appropriate for this 2.4
That’s all for now. Next up is getting trans and engine mated and placed in chassis.
Working on collecting a few more parts for the throttle cable. Have the
rod and bell crank. Need to make a bracket for trans as I don’t have the stud for bell crank. See what I can cobble together. I checked with Rich Johnson he doesn’t have any on hand at the moment. See some of you at the NorthEast gathering.
Cheers.

Dion - I have an RJ bracket. Let me find it for you.

Mark , your awesome mate! Thank you.

A big thank you to Mark @mepstein for hooking me up with the RJ throttle cable bracket for the six configuration. I was able to tap the transmission for the M8 stud.
That was a very tense moment drilling into that case. I did it with 3 different bits stepping up each time till i had the size hole that was needed. Applied plenty of oil when
using the tap. Its only approximately 16mm deep. Glad it turned out well is an understatement.

Time to get married…finally engine and gearbox meet!
Placed the starter on. I want to add the starter relay at this time to help reduce the current going through the ignition switch. Try to get to that this coming week.
Now to find the engine tin rubber seals….

While sharing pics of my build with Rory at the East Coast Gathering had a discussion on my fuel pump and lines. Yeah basically shaved off 8” of fuel line using the 90 degree pump fittings. Thanks Rory! @rgalla9146 Much cleaner and less clutter.

Needed a place for the coil. My early engine doesn’t have the provision to mount on fan housing. So using some square steel tubing, I made a mount for it and bolted that to the firewall in the same manner the GT cars had theirs.

Ok, let’s do this!

Took my time, I removed the tin on the left side. I didn’t want those suspension ears damaging anything.

I had to order a few fittings so I can button up the oil lines. Then I can move on to axles, HE’s , etc. So nice to have it finally in place.

MAN, that looks good in there! Big congrats on a major milestone.

Way to go Dion!!

That there is quite a milestone and one beautiful engine!

Sweet!

Beautiful job Dion !
It's all coming together now.
Have fun installing that left side tin.
Reaching down into the engine compartment to start that last bolt in the rear is
especially enjoyable.
You'll be motoring soon

Yes, very nice there....very nice!

Great updates, thank you

Thank you fellas, your comments on this thread and support goes a long way. I really appreciate the help and encouragement.

I’m now working on some electrical fiddly bits.
This car has the CDI box, the old cast iron distributor and black transformer ( coil ) .
I’m looking for verification and some help.
First off I’m not putting a battery anywhere near this car till I know the layout of wiring is correct. I’ve gone over many threads and the Haynes book for references.
Needless to say there is some conflicting information.
Some of my original harness was modified by a previous mechanic (old D-jet issues) but for the most part seems to be “as” the original .

So here’s the lay of the land:
RELAY PLATE: purple/black wire to pin #1 on transformer.
red/black wire to pin # 15 “A” on transformer.
yellow wire to starter.

CDI BOX ( I have a reproduction PartsKlassic harness)
Terminal A blue wire to pin#15 “A” on transformer
Terminal B red wire to ?
Terminal C black wire to distributor (points tab)

Alternator plug into factory location on relay plate.
All braided grounds connected.
This all seems correct. My QUESTION is where should the red wire of terminal B go to?
Some diagrams show it to switched power at relay plate & some show it going to battery. What is safe and appropriate? Thanks in advance!

Oh man sorry that one I do not know off the top of my head.

B should be the battery or ign switch. Lemme google it...

Yup, not the best picture, but shows all the terminals.

Assuming you have a 3 pin CD box.

@Root_Werks , yes I have that diagram as well. My confusion is that anther thread showed it needs to be on a switched power supply.
So is it ok that the CDI gets battery juice constantly, will that harm it? The harness I have I guess was made to go to the 911 plate on the rear fender (Kettering set up?)
Yes it is a 3 pin CDI.

If I did run to relay plate for “switched” power. What is a good spot?
The last resort one adjacent to the 12 pin connector?

Thanks guys.

I would think switched, you don't want the CD box to have power all the time. Been a few years so hopefully someone with more recent experience will chime in.

I think what I used to do was use the wire from terminal 15 to the coil for CD box terminal B. Then just ran a new wire from A to 15 coil.

@Root_Werks thank you my instincts are agreeing with you. That’s my concern.
Having battery voltage going to the box constantly just doesn’t seem right. Of course I might be mistaken. Going with your suggestion.
Thank you.

Some continuing work. Mounted the scavenge line from Ben @mb911 . Had to make a change to the soft line though. My original one had a 26mm end on it and a 30Mmm was needed to mate with the hard line. A quick trip to a local hydraulic facility and they were able to make a new line with proper fittings for me.

Installed the half-shafts that Chris at Tangerine Racing was making. Nice new Lobro CV
Fresh Schnorr washers and correct torque values.

Then came the factory heat exchangers. Man if you aren’t lined up perfectly they don’t cooperate. Tolerances was exacting. Once on the studs they moved freely. Challenge was keeping the damn gaskets on. Should have dabbed some grease on them as I learned later on from a friend. All the cables were hooked up and aligned proper. Need to do heater hoses. More to come.

Lookin' good Dion
Don't forget a support bracket for that hard line around the front of the engine.
The bracket extends up from the tube and attaches to the front tin.
Your picture shows the hole in the tin that the bracket attaches to.

Thanks Rory! Great eye for details! I’ll have to look for the correct one. I have a zip-tie contraption there currently taking the static weight.

Doh!!! walked the dogs in between and forgot everything.
I have a bad case of rear tire envy. Man ! those are big !
It all looks so good. Excellent.

I’m excited but NOT for the starting of the engine. That is put on hold. I need a battery yet, fuel, and I still need to put oil in the machine.
I’m excited because my body shop guy called. He just finished a 356 and he has a spot for me! He has over 30 years in concourse caliber Porsche restoration. I’m well pleased he took my project on. Will be loading on a trailer in the morning. Excited and nervous

Almost there, Dion!

Wasn’t a bad cruise to the body shop. Murphy’s law dictated that the sky bucketed down
the rain just as we were unloading. All went well in the end. A few towels and all good.
This will be its home for a few weeks. Need to find all the rubber seals now for proper door/hood gaps. I know I’ll be ordering new rear trunk seals. Already have new rear light housing seals. There was probably about an inch of water that made it’s way in that boot. Yeah, need to source a battery. I guess an Odyssey is in order. See what happens.
Cheers all.

Peeling back the onion

Well, well, look what’s under that bondo. Old spoiler holes and some unpleasant metal

Take it all off.

@Dion - I've said it before, I'll say it again:

I love a good strip show!


Can not WAIT to see your beauty in new paint!

Looking good.... I may need to higher that guy also.

Trunk got some love. Holes were made whole. A brazing technique was used for repair.
For some reason this trunk had 4 paint jobs, of which I’m responsible for 2 of them.
Overall the trunk is in good shape. Not sure of the paint job done after the factory one.
Never had a colour change. Always Marathon Blue.

Drivers door had some surprises. Sometime during previous ownership, a different mirror must have been slapped on. I never knew. It was always stock since my purchase in ‘86.

Driver’s door also had a nice dent on lower half.
Some body shop looked to have tried to pull it. They left their holes in the door but wind up just putting 2lbs of bondo on it.

Some more leveling with bondo revealed. All getting hammer and dolly treatment now.

This was the worst on the sheet metal. A couple potholes! They were opened up to more clean solid metal and brazed closed. The backside on inside of fender/wheel well was sound. This area is quite the meeting spot of panels. It’s no wonder water gets trapped.

Panel and door gaps are looking good. There is room for more tweaking.

Hood seems pretty healthy. Only factory layer, and my 2 kiss and a promise layers.
Decent amount of progress.

Nothing is looking that bad and very cool to finally get it to body/paint! My paint guy is starting on my 914-6 this week as well. Excited and nervous about what he'll find. Those first pictures that get sent and phone call is always the worst. How much bondo?!?!?!?

Thanks for all the details, Dion. Have I told you how much I love your build?

Gonna be a stunner!

Great color, big effort, built not bought.

Some surprises but nothing bad ! Keep us updated on the progress!

Antoine

Front hood received some attention. Took out 2 small dimple dents. Most likely caused by closing the lid with improper hand positions. Careful how ya close these lids!