So are my guts after Taco Bell....

--DD

Glen Bell, must have mastered the probiotic aspects of the Taco !
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Small variety of custom bracketing for: #16 oil supply line, snorkel tube, 3DGauto headlights, SQS shift control cable. Most of these rubber edge clamps came from Earl's Supply; when they actually had a self-serve store on Hawthorne Bl. stocked full of actual 'Take off equipment from boneyard aircraft.
Bullet Point 1) snorkel hold down.
2) Left and Right headlight brackets.
3) Under transaxle bracket for SQS shift cable/combo with #16 oil line.
4) #16 oil line, running in the location of right side motor-mount bucket/ unibody area.
Oil lines + shifter cable will both be encased in Goodridge fire-sleeve.
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Usually aircraft in the bone-yard don't take off...

--DD

Some support bracket pics
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View from engine bay
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Headlight support
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...well that didn't take long to hit a niche market !¡
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View from inside the wheel well. I ordered a couple of the black rubber 5-pin relay pads, as 3DGauto headlight wiring inter connects with those.
The 914 rear tail lamp housing Thumb screws work well, no tools required in that tight spot.
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Working our wiring cable towards front trunk area, made some custom quick-disconnects for the 3DGauto headlights/ turn signals. The oe Bosch relay bases add a 'Stockish look to the area !

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Pre-wiring for headlights/ running/ turn lights in place.
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Inside fender view
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Marty, I know you are using plunging cv joints at both ends of the axles, but if you were using one fixed and one plunging cv joint on each axle, which cv joints would you use? Are you using anything exotic or are they basic? Just wondering how much power the basic cv joints with chromoly cages can handle.

@NorCalScott Due to the angles (not exceeding 17°) created by the 'Flipped transaxle I chose to put the plunging ( modified 930) c/v's in at both ends. The chrome moly cages also work with polished surfaces on interior of these joints. In conjunction with the c/v lube that we use (discussed earlier in thread) we are expecting this setup to survive 1,000 rwhp with NO drag race launching; and at least 4 club racing events before disassembling/ inspecting/ and hopefully returning to service. A second back up set of Sway-Away 300m axles in reserve. CV joints sourced through McKenzie Performance in O/C California.
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Thanks for the info Marty! I always appreciate seeing and hearing the details of your process

Few pics of prep for the installation of the poly carbonate door windows ...
Aluminum window frame was milled for side roll bar clearance , and another aluminum piece was tig welded on its backside for strength. Fuzzy channels still used but only grabs the new slider window "Depth". Blue lines show mill cutting area.
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A bit of soapy water and guide + tap the vent window into position. New 914Rubber is being installed wherever we can utilize it on our build.
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Vent window seated in place; the adjustable vent/ air inlet should make the cabin temps cool !
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Don't forget the end cap on the rear channel ¡
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Clear pic of the Left axle (in full 'droop), just before the dry sump tank goes into place.
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You shame us all!

For those who have never painted a car's interior, inner door shells, or a roll cage, this paint work is the hardest, most time/material consuming painting of all.

Tubes are an absolute BITCH, especially if already installed!

His stuff looks color sanded, polished, and waxed!

INSIDE the freaking door shell!

I've done it once, nowhere near this level, and will AVOID doing it again if possible.

Marty, how did you do that?
Only way I could is MASSIVE prep, a tiny airbrush, or a big dip tank.

This is some of the best paint work I've seen on the forum!

Whole car is just "Ultimate 914"!

Until right now Marty I did not know it was for the street. So do I check with Ticketmaster or will you be selling the passenger seat tickets. Holy moly

@Ninja I can't take credit away from our body + paint craftsman here in my neighborhood; Nikky is way over the top. He started at age 17 in a high end body shop in SoCal and his skills just went up from there. I never expected this '74 club-racer/ sometimes-street car to leave his shop in this shape. Side impact very important to us...so the D.O.T. door beams remain, along with Nascar style side bars. Everything works / no scrapes or interference when the doors shut. I usually wear white gym socks / no shoes when working in the interior

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@Shivers you are too kind ! When we finish and start showning/ driving it I will definitely post locations and events where we take her, here on World. Car will be an interesting driving + learning curve for Matt + me...but will be a hoot ¡

We need max cabin space for the racing seat, so the roll bar was set back >>but just enough clearance at the targa structure for a new 'Hold-down sys. Also not a fan of drilling / dzus fastening the factory targa top. So I've re-purposed the oe latch housing and came up with a simple tightening bracket.
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Just a ¼x20 threaded rod and matching bolt extender at the bottom> simple turn of the wrench to install/remove.
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I'll do the fine tuning on fit, after the rest of the 914Rubber is in place.
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