@Steve Hi Steve - I seem to have missed that part about limitations. It's bound to bite me at some point, hopefully not on this build!
I need to get on the "make it run" part. I've been working to decide which ECU to go with. I'm looking at Haltech and ECU Master Pro. It seems to be "go with what your tuner knows..." so I'm talking with tuners to try and find someone excited to try and help me. I just need to make the decision and get started. Thanks for the encouragement - I need it!

I said I'd make it fit! Now it's a simple matter of rebuilding that section so it sits back about .6" at the top and has clearance for the manifold below the seal. I mean, how hard can that be?

I found something to make our lives easier...



Converts cable to DBW
Beats trying to fit a floor mount eGas pedal and run wires.

Dorman 699-199
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
Application Summary: Acura 2008-03, Honda 2014-03

Luckily eGas is a Bosch tech so it's 99% all the same. 0-5v and 5-0v.

I don't use ANY Dorman crap that has electronics in it.

Way too many failures...

Dorman is the lowest of the low!

Trash in my book.

Just get a used or new Honda part and you'll be golden...

I'd take a 200k used Honda part over a Dorman anyday.

Top still fits?

@Shivers - It sure will. And here's the best part: To ensure it'll fit, I pulled the firewall panel out and clipped it to the roof! I'll can build that offset section with the roof in place, knowing everything will clear.

For those of you who like to watch...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoKdIy88ptk

Watched this most recent video this morning over coffee. As always, Chris does not disappoint.

Somebody has to say it:


"We Have Clearance, Clarence"

You Shifty Bastard...!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1myq2SgFDgA

All the Ferraris I've seen have flat shifters/consoles, but the Porsche Carrera GT and most of the new stuff have angled consoles. So I guess you will need to decide if you are building a Ferrari or a Porsche?

Amazing work Chris as always. I like the shifter tilted somewhat up - maybe not all the way up. But I like the way it positions it for your hand and I have to believe with it slightly tilted it makes shifting more enjoyable.

I really like the air/oil separator "collar" in the trunk to focus attention. I am not sold on the clear panel; I would be concerned about being able to keep it clean. I think making it out of sheet metal and bead rolling a simple design that picks up the oil line angles would look good. I think a clear panel is trying too hard. Hey, you asked....

Love ya brother.

@Cairo94507 Michael - Yep, after noodling on it for a bit, the clear panel is out. I worked up some V1 elements of the trunk liner that are, I hope, a simpler design. It makes more sense to just have it be "a trunk liner". I really need to spend time on more important things!

I have been following Chris and The Red Barn U-tube since the beginning. I love his shop, skills, and patience to do things twice or even three times to get it right (the way he wants it). This project is an evolution of ideas and vision.
Keep the videos coming and can’t wait to see her run I know it will never be “finished “ because Chris will always will be modifying something.
Great respect, rock on Chris !!!

Love the shifter, makes my MR2 shifter look really crude. Scotty suggests transparent aluminum for the clear panel

Again, the clear panel and V shape are out (for now! ). Here's the initial mock up of the trunk liner. There'll be a raised section down the center of the trunk to clear the air/oil separator, the trans mount and the trans itself.
No, the rear portion hasn't been shaped. It'll be this 6" wide "bump" all the way down and back.

More progress on the removable trunk liner. I'm pretty happy with where this looks like it's headed.

Nice! I love designing in CAD (Cardboard Aided Design)

It's official! My recent video won YouTube's "Average View Duration " contest!

Maybe keep the hump the same width from front to rear to avoid the multiple humps look?

Definitely like the increased depth storage on the back end.

@Montreal914 - I want sort of a "shrink wrap" look that hints at what's under it. I'm also thinking of a smuggler's box in the upper area, next to the oil fill so I want as much room as possible there. And the trans requires a much wider bump-up. I think I can make it look good. And in the end, as you'll hear me say in the next video, "it's just a trunk".
(Kinda like my LS car's firewall is just a firewall! )

Ferrari drivetrain should include fitted luggage!

That will ALSO need to fit under the targa as well...

Oh dear. I'm afraid the ninja is right!

I can't believe you're hiding all that gorgeous Tubing work. Put the trunk back under it

Kevin

The liner will be removable for that very reason. When it's out, I call it "Cars & Coffee" mode.

For those interested in how the trunk liner mock up came together:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hithb4VMdBw

"This is not the color palette I was looking for"...


Ya think?
You could do an "Art Car" and include the non-standard color selection ALL OVER the car.
Janice Joplin would appreciate that...

One thing I "saw" right off that I would do something about is the tank to floor interface.

The oil separator tank NEEDS to be isolated from the trunk floor in some manner.

The aluminum inner flange looks nice.

The black anodized upper part looks perfect!

I'd want to use it too.

That tank will most likely cause the trunk to become a NVH amplifier if it's mounted directly to the sheet metal.

How much will the engine/trans package move during operation?

You may have this accounted for already but it wasn't in the video...

Look at how Porsche does the late 911 and Boxster fill ports through the sheet metal for possible ideas.

I'd want at least 0.100" rubber and might need more depending on drivetrain torque movement.

Yep, good point. I was planning a seal. But hadn't yet connected that the liner shouldn't come in direct contact with whatevers' connected to the separator. So something soft-ish and maybe .25" thick, just to be sure. Or a slip-over sorta rubber neck. Ideally, I don't want to have to remove the oil cap to get the liner out. As always, "we shall see."

I think you are going to want more tire.

I had 205 & 225 on 6 & 7 x 16 (stock Boxster) on my 3.0 which is just 190 hp & 205 tq. I could roast tires in 1st & 2nd.

V2 I did 225 on 7 x 17 all around, mainly for the understeer issue. I don't think 225 will handle the 270+ tq of the 3.5L.

I picked up 2 pairs, 8.5 and 9.0 (box/996) with 255 tires, for the rear in anticipation that I can easily over-power the 225s. Yes I have a buy cheap wheels problem...

Your eng/trans combo weighs more than my 320 lb engine and stock 914 trans, so you would be inclined to fatten the rear more anyways.

Hard steering is more from the offset to fill the flares than tire size. My narrow body turns fine.

The wheels you're looking at look awesome. Nice find.

With the LS car back in action, it's back to the 914 Ferrari. Well that and KITTIES!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVMmnzizH4c

Nice!

I like the kitty "air lock" that you have around the exterior door.

It looks like Mama cat wants OUT!

She's had enough of her spawn.

The baby cage won't hold them much longer...

Chaos is in your future!

On car stuff:

Nothing says Ferrari mounted the drive train in the center of their car.

I see offset drivetrains more often than centered across manufactures.


The rolled metal caused by the stud installation would bug the shit out of me.

I see that as possibly compromised studs...


I like the wheel choice!
Those look great (and they're not the normal Fuchs).

Your RIGHT! It's time to hear the monster roar, make it run...

Have you seen/heard that specific engine run?

My wife loves the kitties!

Only problem is now she wants one of them, and we already have two of the furry mosters -- I don't want any more!

Teaser shot from tomorrow's video:
I'm pretty sure this is the world's only Ferrari gated 6-speed connected to a 914 trailing arm.

I think that’s a safe statement to make

MORE KITTIES!

They should have escaped the playpen by now...

Just to mess with the Ferrari guys more, you should use Ferrari labeled Brembo 4 piston calipers on it. If you find the right one they are the same as the Boxster calipers, so fitment is not an issue, and they say "Ferrari" on the visible face.

Click to view attachment

These are even 360 Modena calipers.

They would go well with the engine.

And here's this week's update. I was so excited to get the axles built that I forgot to phase the CVs. I'll be going back to check/fix that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Re86R1IwXOk

Amazing axles!!!

@ClayPerrine Clay - I'm zeroing in on the overall vibe of the build and I want to avoid the "everything is special" feel. I think it's going to be that the drive train and interior are the focus areas and everything else is super tidy but not really unexpected. So at this point, the plan is to run that model caliper but labeled "Brembo". Not a giant easter egg, just a tiny bit unique. They'll also likely be black.

Well, it's official: I've gone big time.
I thought it'd be fun to make up some hoodies and t-shirts. The initial batch arrived yesterday!

I would love a large hoodie!

Would love a medium tee shirt.
Got to support the Barn!!

It has been fun and educational. Cool deal on the alternator. Axles came out nice, big CV’s

Phasing CV joints. And boy, this project has legs!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0C6gGdw9sto

Nice!

I'd have been messing with kitten bellies when they climbed like that.

You didn't explain WHY phasing is important on German CV joints.

Phasing allows proper axial movement of the joint to account for axle length changes during suspension operation.

Most CV axles have a double sphere outer joint (that has no axial movement) and an inner joint that has 2" of in-and out" available. Often these are 3 lobed and called "tripod" joints.

The German design appears to be STRONGER as when folks get serious that is the direction they change too.

High end rock crawler stuff is almost always German style.

Now, you get an old school driveshaft (with standard u-joints) "out of phase" and the vibration gremlin you create will dive you "bat-shit" crazy.

Jaguar had multi-piece driveshafts with an elastomer between two fixed tubes for NVH.
Had a car once that 3 other shops tried to fix (to the tune of 5K worth of un-needed work) that twisted its driveshaft, and the u-joints no longer lined up.

Customer didn't believe it was just a driveshaft so I replaced it with another out of one of the "For Sale" cars at this shop and it SOLVED the "can't see out of the rearview mirror" vibrations.

An out of phase old school drive shaft is un-drivable.

An out of phase German shaft will still sort of work until it EATS the CV joints.

Most old school drive shafts are single piece and unless you actually twist the tube you cannot achieve out of phase. The problematic ones are either two piece like the Jag OR have a splined section (for axial movement) that someone didn't index before they took it apart.
The last one is SUPER COMMON to happen!

EDIT: Have another thought...
If you do the "floating axle" like Chris did there might be enough axial freedom that phasing the German style junk might be unnecessary!

I'd have still corrected it too but...
Maybe you didn't have too!

The whole "Floating Axle" thing is DEFINITELY Ninja approved!

One piece of information.

The plugged holes in the floor pan are used in the factory to hold the stamped floor pans to the assembly jig. There is a cam that sticks up from the jig and can be turned, kinda like an IKEA furniture lock cam. While on the jig, the stamped panels are all welded together and the plug cam is turned to release them from the jig.

This comes from an old 356 assembly video that Al Zim showed me one time. Karmann built bodies like that for years.


One question on the pedals.

How do you get the master cylinders off the pedals if you have to replace one? Do you completely unbolt the pedal assembly and take it out of the car?

Are you going to weld up the hole for the factory master cylinder?


I love the videos.. and I love the addition of the cat updates. Keep them coming.

Thanks!

Clay

Chris @tygaboy I phased these deep plunging 930 cv's (McKenzie Offroad Perf) and painted some gold colored dots to indicate the opposite ends;
2 dots = fat/wide section & 1 dot = skinny/narrow section... then index with a straight-edge. This reminds me that "It's done" way after the boot+flange+ lube is all set in place ...no re-thinking of missing an install step.
Also if using 930 CVs make sure that the outer circumference edge with the 'Groove faces outwards;
1 side faces trailing arm/ 1 side faces trans output flange.

Click to view attachment

I also use a small length of (stranded) 12 or 14 ga. wire around the end of the cv boot, a bit of lube on the (300m SwayAway) axle...and using both hands simultaneously >>simple tugs on the wire brings the boot over the spline area and into place
Click to view attachment

Look at all the cool info, helpful hints and myth busting that gets shared on this awesome forum!
Thanks @Maltese Falcon @technicalninja @ClayPerrine

I'm going to add these clarifications to next week's episode. with full credit, of course!
Thanks again.