@ClayPerrine - Well, not completely remove. I use a section of flexible hydraulic line between the M/Cs and the chassis that enables the pedals to be unbolted and slid back to allow removal of the M/Cs. It's not fun but it worked when I changed out the clutch master on my LS car.
And yes, the factory M/C holes will be closed up.
Great to hear you're enjoying the kitties!

Pedal assembly in!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4sqnj592ys

They grow up so fast.

I've been "owned" by cats since I was 15.

Got subjugated by a male red tabby I named Maxx who showed up "out of the blue".

The very best cats have been the ones who magically appeared out of nowhere...

It was when I saw him ride a neighbor's dog like a bull rider that I thought cats are super cool.

But, when I saw him do that for a second time, to the same dog, that I knew cats were for me!

He did it "because he could" for sport!

I'm in for a "sporting" red tabby anytime...

Had the same sort of thing happen 11 years back.

Austin (middle son) had gotten a red kitten about 3 months old that he left with us for a ski trip. He named him Mufasa. Mufasa was asleep on my wife when I found "HIM" on the back porch!
I yelled at him "Mufasa, how did you get out" and he hauled ass.
Ran back into bedroom and found Mufasa still asleep on the wife.

It was a second one, same age and coloring, just showed up!

This kitten adopted my youngest son, Michael.

We called him "Echo" because doppelgänger or mirror image was too hard to yell...

Someone said I should check the level of my master cylinders...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3wDV4gzVGY

Both axles in and looking very cool! Next, I need to work out the bracing for that rear trans mount "pivot link" mount - that's what you're seeing with those two V-bars. I wish there were a more elegant solution but this one likely makes the most structurally sound sense.

On a different note, one of my buddies suggested I work some Japanese parts into the build "so it has full Axis representation..."

I vote for a Denso AC system!

The old name was Nippon Denso

This translates to "Japanese Electrical Device" or "Japanese Electrical Motor" depending on the translator.

Trust the Japanese to "obviously" name their companies...

Oil cooler solved! What? You think I should do something more elegant?

Another happy coincidence! Porsche trombone oil line fittings are the same as the Ferrari system. One less thing to chase down. Look closely, it's connected - well, one end anyway.

I like the location, but you might want to connect the outlet to something.

BTW, that oil filler reminds me of old indy car pop-off valves.

I kinda thought it had a Mr Fusion look to it

Maybe a Doc Brown vibe.

I see a redneck still...

My neighbor took me out for a ride in his Ferrari the other day, here is a look see of what a newer F car oil filler looks like.

Best Bob B
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What about a 911 brass Jail bar cooler. ?

Getting back to the serious stuff, I finished the transaxle pivoting link mount.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNhHocHu7Ck

Those came out nice. I was going to make a tube notcher with my pipe vise and my drill press. I like your design better.


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The work you do is unbelievable. So impressive. The details and thought process behind this are mind boggling.

Very cool! I’ve got to get a plasma table

@East coaster Yep, it really is awesome but if I didn't have one, I'd be all over Send Cut Send and probably not buy one. Certainly not one as big as the one I have. Maybe a 2x4 since nearly all the stuff I do could be done with a much smaller footprint machine.

Speaking of plasma tables, I used it to whip up a muffler mounting fixture that locates the exit end of the mufflers.

And if the above pic didn't make it obvious, this one should:
As has been known since the drive train was mounted, the end of the trans is not symmetrical to the car.
It's actually one of my favorite parts of the build even though I'm sure some folks will assume I didn't get things put in correctly!

Things are challenging in these 'Hyper builds, and you def nailed it on the Muffler bracket

Wait, I don't understand - no speed holes on the muffler bracket???

- Tony

Version II of the muffler jig. This one is 4" narrower overall. It REALLY highlights the transaxle offset. I think I like this one.

And the up-angled mufflers are sure to get me a few more style points.
Yes, exhaust tips will be extended to beyond the bumper.

I definitly like seeing the Porsche on the licence plate frame and the Ferrari below

Are you considering a valance, or this will be without?

If you plan on installing an early valace, maybe go with a mesh design in the middle portion exposing the Ferrari tail end of the box.

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La Ferrari mesh rear end.
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Now what? Just a giant aluminum 1/2 donut a friend had stamped for his custom-built motorcycle's fender blanks.

OK, I'll tell you what!

Slice it into quarters and see if can be used as the basis for a radiator venting system!
Clearly a ways to go but, so far, I'm encouraged! It's nearly a perfect fit. What are the odds?

And no, that's not the radiator I'll be using - it's just a mock-up part.

I like venting into the wheel wells but what about the bottom louvers? Would you remove them and close that off?

The BIGGEST problem with radiator shrouding is the amount of restriction that they create behind the radiator.

MOST (almost all) are too shallow. Like the one that is currently mounted to the radiator.

That one IS NOT!

Now ending it directly against a wall isn't good either but I'm betting you have a solution for that.

That looks beautiful!

High flow to the max!

@Cairo94507 Michael - I'm still thinking about that. There's a possibility of splitting the bumper intake and running a false floor with an oil cooler venting through the floor louvers and the radiator venting out the fenders. I need to get the actual radiator I'll be running and work out if there's enough space to pull it off.
If not, I'll need to see if leaving the floor as is (for extra radiator venting) is a good idea or not.

Exit holes only need to be 20% larger to accommodate the freshly heated air.

If you are going to cut holes into the wheel wells, which is ideal, then fill in the floor, which leads to rear end lift.

Also, I'd never run oil lines all the way to the front of the car. Get an oil-water cooler or a plain air-oil cooler and duct some air to it near the engine bay. Your engine isn't oil cooled so it's not vital like a big -6.
I only installed an oil cooler due to the lack of airflow compared to when it was a front mounted engine, and I needed a remote filter mount anyways. The stock cooler for my 3.5 is just an oil-water oil filter extension.

5 minutes of interesting build info crammed into a 28 minute video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99m5HQFbx_w

Thank you for 30 minutes of cool!

The mufflers arn't...

Those are modified glass packs!

It's NOT going to be quiet!

You can freaking see through them!

Might even get flames...


The radiator ducting is awesome!

And you have shitloads of room for a condenser...

A BIG one!

I'd build it out of something that has less heat transfer than aluminum.

I built a really tight aluminum block off "box" (air filter) for one of the Miatas.

I completely sealed the air filter from the engine compartment and fed the housing from clean frontal air. Worked great!

After a 15-minute drive you could BURN your hands on the air filter side of the aluminum.

Had to go back in with some of the gold foil on the engine side which helped but didn't completely solve the heat transfer.

Had I made it out of stainless or better yet, plastic, it would have worked better...


You're lucky on the midget NASCAR. The track needs to be an oval which is a bunch easier to build than the 917 shown.

I'd bet there are BUNCHES of NASCAR themed slot car too...


And then there were the DEMONS!

My favorite part.

Very telling that you DIDN"T open the door!

Man, Chris just never ceases to amaze. I love the mock-up for the radiator cooling system. I have to agree with technicalninja, that exhaust system should be pretty loud, but it does look bitchin' from the rear. It sits nice and high. Are you going to run some sort of rear valance? A shortie?

@technicalninja @Cairo94507 - That style muffler is the same as I'm running on my LS car and they aren't that loud. Granted, those are Magnaflow and these are Borla but same-ish design.
I was contemplating a rear valance but I REALLY like the view without one. We'll see.

Your cooling system ducting has energized me!

I'm going the water-cooled route as well and the basically circular tubes offer another option.

Get rid of the piss poor efficient flat fans on the radiator and place ducted fans near the outlets!

At first, I disliked dumping hot air over the brakes; on a race car this might be a poor choice.

On a streetcar with performance brake pads, it might help them not get cold soaked from in-activity, long stints at cruise.

Might be a BETTER choice to have slightly pre-heated pads...

This gets deep quickly and is applicable to using ducted fans as a thrust source, but the math is good, worth reading.
https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3417/13/5/2787#:~...%20surroundings.

Here's a question about the V8 car. Did you ever notice excessive heat on the windshield/frontal sections of the car?
I'd expect the exits are far enough away that it wasn't a serious problem, but I'd like to know. The exit air is not stupid hot either.

Those stupid ass "exhaust through hood cars" will MELT the inner layer of goo between the dual pane front windshield.
While turbos prefer NO exhaust the rest of the car doesn't...

If you do a valence I'd make at least the center section out of mesh. You've had a couple of good examples hit this thread already

The "Ferrari" on the ass end of the transmission needs to SHOW right up to the point the Ferrari attorneys bitch about it.

At that point they need to be modified into "REDBARN" keeping the "font and style" identical.

I would add a tiny little LED to light that puppy UP at night...
If I did that I'd used a LED that had the ability to change color.
Imagine the letters mirror polished, on the jet-black housing, glowing RED!

Version 1 of the header-to-muffler tube. I don't know...

Actually, I do know! I slept on the Version 1 design and decided it's a no. The s-bend doesn't relate to any othe shapes in the engine bay (plus it's fiddly to make).

So here's V2. Better IMO because:
- more cohesive w/the rest of the shapes
- moves the exhaust tips in-board, which I like better (I cheated the muffler tip fixture to the right so pay no attention to the location of the right side opening)

My OCD is screaming inside my head ...

Mine too.... The muffler should be parallel to the transmission. I prefer version one.

yup

I LIKE #2!

Much straighter tubes, easier fab.

Now, I DO agree with the others as well. Where the exhaust tips exit should be parallel with each other.

Not pointed in like a cross-eyed Siamese cat!

Besides the tips no one will ever see the angle of the mufflers except you guys who have been able to see "under the skirt" from the start...

It also aligns the exhaust tip exit with the license plate depression in the bumper.

You guys need to give me a little more credit. The exhaust tips will curve right off the mufflers. They'll exit straight out the back.

@tygaboy for kicks and giggles...and if I remember correctly you stated the muffler was reversible...why not reverse them to align the muffler with the trans and the header to muffler pipe more closely matching the angle of the lower trans support bar like the below photo...or flip the exit further out with the other mockup trans muffler mount bracket...

Ken

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