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Chris914n6
Going to be interesting with no cross tube.

I'd do a partial valance, just the corners. Stockish sides and around to hide the tires. Leave the mufflers and trans showing.
tygaboy
While I appreciate the input, it's a classic case of "it's not as simple as you may think".
Pictures don't convey all the challenges and with what I've posted, some of the design challenges aren't obvious:
1. there are space limitations that mean I really need to keep the exhaust outside of the rear trans mount support strut. Inside means its too close to the CV (heat).
2. the tube radii take up some distance so there's less distance available for the straight sections than you may think.
3. I want a design that allows for the both the lower shock bolt and the axles to be removed with the exhaust in place. This impacts tube location.
4. the V-band location helps with #3. Further forward sort of eliminates the issue as I wouldn't mind if I had to remove the muffler section for servicing the shock/axle. Not ideal but...
5. I want the system to slope up as it heads back because the V-band has a larger diameter than the tubing so I need to watch its location re: ground clearance.
6. it can't slope up too quickly because it has to clear the support strut.
7. I want to like how it looks.

I suppose I could take a swing at making a support strut that has a pass-through for the exhaust. shades.gif

For now I'll close with: Anyone who'd like is welcome to come to The Red Barn and help a brother out. poke.gif
tygaboy
QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Jul 9 2024, 09:36 PM) *

Going to be interesting with no cross tube.

I'd do a partial valance, just the corners. Stockish sides and around to hide the tires. Leave the mufflers and trans showing.


@Chris914n6 - As I understand it, flat plane cranks produces more efficient exhaust scavenging without the need to have header primaries cross over from one bank to the other. Plus, the 360 Challenge cars run no post-header cross-over tube. Sure, race car so not as concerned with lower RPM stuff but I'm not after the last lb/ft or hp.
I talked with a buddy who builds and campaigns a number of successful race cars and owns both a 360 street car and a Challenge. He recommended no cross-over.
I'm no expert but all that, plus the easier packaging, is good enough for me. At least until I prove otherwise.
JmuRiz
If it sounds anything like a Challenge car on track, it gets a thumbs up from me biggrin.gif

Version 2 with the slight angle up could leave some room for a working diffuser, hmmmmm
Chris914n6
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jul 10 2024, 06:50 AM) *

QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Jul 9 2024, 09:36 PM) *

Going to be interesting with no cross tube.

I'd do a partial valance, just the corners. Stockish sides and around to hide the tires. Leave the mufflers and trans showing.


@Chris914n6 - As I understand it, flat plane cranks produces more efficient exhaust scavenging without the need to have header primaries cross over from one bank to the other. Plus, the 360 Challenge cars run no post-header cross-over tube. Sure, race car so not as concerned with lower RPM stuff but I'm not after the last lb/ft or hp.
I talked with a buddy who builds and campaigns a number of successful race cars and owns both a 360 street car and a Challenge. He recommended no cross-over.
I'm no expert but all that, plus the easier packaging, is good enough for me. At least until I prove otherwise.

I was thinking that you essentially have 2 4 cylinder engines with that setup...
maybe it works, maybe it's ricey?
tygaboy
Everyone can relax! Here's the going-forward design. I REALLY wanted the tube to be parallel to the trans mount frame so I put on my big boy pants and worked it out.
The tube at the header is a bend with a 1.46" extension added to make up for the cylinder offset and allow for symmetry from that point back. It turned out nicely and that's the actual part that'll be used.
The piece at the other end is a mock up piece I did just to prove out the fit. That end will be fabbed next.
I'll need to adjust the exhaust tip fixture to get the mufflers dead straight in the car but it's close enough for me to know I'm going with this layout.
bkrantz
Nice!

(and thanks)
pfreiburger
That looks just right! Thanks so much for taking us along during the creative process. It is great to watch you work through ideas and versions – and end up in just the right place.

Funny thing, I generally don’t have much interest in 914 non-Porsche engine swaps – but this one I love!

The kitties are cool too.
tygaboy
Like this.
bkrantz
Thinking about heat shielding (or exhaust wrap)?
East coaster
Looks good, I like where you ended up.
tygaboy
And for any interested parties, here's video of the exhaust evolution.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQ9FcldXOz4
Cairo94507
It never ceases to amaze me the work that goes into making it look right. I love the final exhaust look. Looking forward to seeing it all welded up and the spring clamp connection. beerchug.gif
technicalninja
I'd love to see a video of "Mortis" with your monsters meeting the other cats.

That looks like a place I would spend too much time in!
tygaboy
The "double slip" connectors have arrived. Vibrant Performance pieces. REALLY nicely constructed.
tygaboy
And here's what they look like ready for final welding.
tygaboy
Both fit.
tygaboy
I'm really happy with how this is turning out. Now squint and imagine it with all the finishes refreshed, etc. drooley.gif
Can't hardly wait.
KELTY360
It’s all coming together like the factory couldn’t have imagined. A work of art and pristine mechanical excellence.
bkrantz
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jul 13 2024, 01:48 PM) *

The "double slip" connectors have arrived. Vibrant Performance pieces. REALLY nicely constructed.


Will you clamp these or just rely on slip-fit?
tygaboy
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jul 13 2024, 07:04 PM) *

QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jul 13 2024, 01:48 PM) *

The "double slip" connectors have arrived. Vibrant Performance pieces. REALLY nicely constructed.


Will you clamp these or just rely on slip-fit?

@bkrantz - They have no accomodation for clamping. The rear component essentially bottoms out on the turn down of the outer layer on the front piece. Apparently, that's all that's needed.
I may add a tab set so they can be bolted together, just to stabilize the joint/middle of that section of the exhaust. We'll see what happens as I work out the muffler mount.
technicalninja
Adding springs between paired tabs is a very Italian way of doing things.

Most of the time three springs at 120 degrees increments.
barefoot
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jul 13 2024, 09:38 AM) *

And for any interested parties, here's video of the exhaust evolution.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQ9FcldXOz4



I'm really blown away with your shop capabilities. seems you have everything needed for fabing almost anything. As a retired design engineer I can appreciate what you have there. w00t.gif

Barefoot
tygaboy
Everything tacked, ready for final welding. Note there's not yet a rear mount supporting the rear of the mufflers - they're only held in place by the double slips so things aren't completely in their exact, final location.
But I couldn't be happier with how this exhaust is turning out.
bkrantz
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jul 13 2024, 09:19 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jul 13 2024, 07:04 PM) *

QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jul 13 2024, 01:48 PM) *

The "double slip" connectors have arrived. Vibrant Performance pieces. REALLY nicely constructed.


Will you clamp these or just rely on slip-fit?

@bkrantz - They have no accomodation for clamping. The rear component essentially bottoms out on the turn down of the outer layer on the front piece. Apparently, that's all that's needed.
I may add a tab set so they can be bolted together, just to stabilize the joint/middle of that section of the exhaust. We'll see what happens as I work out the muffler mount.


Intereresting. I guess if there is no tension or torque on the slip joint it will stay tight, especially after a bit of heat cycle oxidation.
mgp4591
I'll second the suggestion of springs...very racing oriented, Italian and Porsche worthy!
tygaboy
Getting started on the oil lines. First step was to install the weld-on -16 AN fittings on the air/oil separater and the low pressure return line. The oil cooler goes between these two fittings.
The line pictured is a spare I had, not the actual piece that'll be used.
tygaboy
The factory Ferrari muffler mount (upside down pic, sorry. It's all I could find) versus one that's been subjected to some At The Red Barn mods. happy11.gif
My version is lighter and prettier. aktion035.gif

Yes, a little bit more tidying up to do but, as I regularly say: You get the idea.
tygaboy
I know you're dying to catch up on the exhaust build. This episode brings you current with progress through yesterday.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pgnf4-5OAyY
Cairo94507
The attention to detail is mind blowing. I am obviously a Red Barn fan; Chris is just the best. I would have a hard time letting those little kitties go; they are so cute and so well adjusted/socialized. I am sure wherever they end up, they will be loved and well cared for. beerchug.gif
tygaboy
Turns out I was wrong about not needing a cross-over. Shoulda listened to @chris914n6

And it seems the car itself was pissed at me for that, too!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RigFn6UJN2E
Cairo94507
I hope your hand heals up quickly Chris; it sure does not look like it slowed you down at all. Stitches give you character. You and Martin are making great progress on the Ferrari car. Hopefully one day soon Bobby and I will be causing over to see you in my car. Those kitties are going to have wonderful lives because they are well socialized. beerchug.gif
East coaster
Ouch!
tygaboy
No rest for the weary injured! For those who may not want to watch the videos, here's the radiator mount, ready for final welding. I'm happy with how it's turning out.
tygaboy
And a final test fit. Yes, it'll have a foam seal between the mount and the rad.
ClayPerrine
Chris...

My wife Betty says "I'ts not a good job until you bleed on it and cuss at it." I just assume you have already cussed at it a few times, so it looks like this is going to be a good job.


And as a soft can opener, I appreciate all you do for the kitties. Thank you!

technicalninja
The kitties are completely trained.

One of the first steps is to use Humans as furniture!

Best place to be in on the shoulders.

Closest to the brain for the "Power of Purr" to work properly.

"Total and Complete World Domination" via subconscious manipulation.

That little red one has you and you know it... devil.gif


Now, car stuff!

Plenty of room for a big condenser. ninja.gif

It's properly ducted already...

I'd keep the original exhaust you made.

I'd want to try it out too...

Thanks for the update!

Chris914n6
Congrats on earning a demerit badge

Click to view attachment
tazz9924
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jul 27 2024, 01:15 PM) *

And a final test fit. Yes, it'll have a foam seal between the mount and the rad.

I dont know if you plan to keep the louvered floor but make sure you cover it up before the radiator, dont want all that precious cooling air leaking out like a blood from a hand….. w00t.gif
Shivers
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jul 27 2024, 06:30 AM) *

Turns out I was wrong about not needing a cross-over. Shoulda listened to @chris914n6

And it seems the car itself was pissed at me for that, too!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RigFn6UJN2E



I have U shaped and weird X shaped scars on my arms and hands. My darn skin changed and now a stern look seems to tear it. A lot of times I have no idea how I bloodied myself. I just pull the "flap" back to where is was, smother it with neosporin and slap a big bandaid on. I have a whole drawer in the bathroom just for my bandaid collection. biggrin.gif

Can not wait to see what this X pipe version will look like, more so how it sounds. I think the X pipe gave the Anza/Monza exhaust a, what I used to refer to as a European sound. Like there is something angry in there popcorn[1].gif Rock on dude
technicalninja
QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Jul 27 2024, 11:05 PM) *

Congrats on earning a demerit badge

Click to view attachment


Freaking Perfect!

I've earned it and I want one of those "demerit" badges.

I've touched the trailing edges of electric fans many times.

Gives you the equivalent of a carpet burn on whatever touched the fan.

Yes, you can bleed but not badly.

I was working on a magazine worthy Ford Highboy roadster.

Some MORON wired the electric fan backwards. It was pushing the air FORWARD through the radiator.
I didn't notice (STUPID Ninja!) and got my left hand sucked into said fan on the "leading side".

The best description is "Food Processor"!
It sheared all of the meat on my little finger off of the outside and wacked the dog shit out of the second one.
Thank GOD it didn't just cut one OFF. I think it could have!
34 stiches on the little one, 19 on the second.
The first time in 37 years a car sent me DIRECTLY to the ER.

And I am NOW incredibly gun shy of electric fans...
And, I've earned my demerit badge!
tygaboy
QUOTE(tazz9924 @ Jul 27 2024, 09:56 PM) *

QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jul 27 2024, 01:15 PM) *

And a final test fit. Yes, it'll have a foam seal between the mount and the rad.

I dont know if you plan to keep the louvered floor but make sure you cover it up before the radiator, dont want all that precious cooling air leaking out like a blood from a hand….. w00t.gif

@tazz9924 Yep, there's what I call a "lower shroud" that'll take care of that. Here's the similar set up in my LS car.
technicalninja
agree.gif agree.gif agree.gif

SO NICE!
Monster air flow!
tazz9924
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jul 28 2024, 05:17 AM) *

QUOTE(tazz9924 @ Jul 27 2024, 09:56 PM) *

QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jul 27 2024, 01:15 PM) *

And a final test fit. Yes, it'll have a foam seal between the mount and the rad.

I dont know if you plan to keep the louvered floor but make sure you cover it up before the radiator, dont want all that precious cooling air leaking out like a blood from a hand….. w00t.gif

@tazz9924 Yep, there's what I call a "lower shroud" that'll take care of that. Here's the similar set up in my LS car.

Very nice. What are your little tabs used for?
tygaboy
QUOTE(tazz9924 @ Jul 28 2024, 06:41 AM) *

QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jul 28 2024, 05:17 AM) *

QUOTE(tazz9924 @ Jul 27 2024, 09:56 PM) *

QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jul 27 2024, 01:15 PM) *

And a final test fit. Yes, it'll have a foam seal between the mount and the rad.

I dont know if you plan to keep the louvered floor but make sure you cover it up before the radiator, dont want all that precious cooling air leaking out like a blood from a hand….. w00t.gif

@tazz9924 Yep, there's what I call a "lower shroud" that'll take care of that. Here's the similar set up in my LS car.

Very nice. What are your little tabs used for?

AC/condensor mounts
tygaboy
Back at it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7dVboGTOwc
Cairo94507
Wow, that went fast. Coming along nicely Chris & Martin. beerchug.gif
mb911
Looking good in retirement I imagine doing many of the same things. Enjoy
technicalninja
Great episode!

One of the most common vehicle fabrication mistakes I see is hard mounting an aluminum radiator.
Works fine for a year, 18 months and then you have radiator tank failures.

Almost ALL the aftermarket aluminum radiators I've seen are done wrong.

"Floating" the radiator on pins and bushings at the bottom then an upper mount that doesn't lock the radiator down is the way to go.

Even stock OEM aluminum/plastic radiators are "floated" too!

Pre-radiator ducting (often left out) is Kick Ass!

Giving 1/8" for a foam seal is too.

This is another tiny little detail that the OEMs use and is not even thought about by most fabricators.

The way you are doing it is PERFECT IMO.

When I add the radiator to my car, I'm going to use your method as the template!

Master Fabricator there! beerchug.gif


Then the X pipe...

I believe that is the best provisioned X cross over I've seen yet.

Nothing I've seen before makes as nice an X as yours does!

Just truly eXquisite!!!

I've been a little worried about room for such a pipe as I may need one too.

Looks like plenty of room using your method.

Target DOWN!
Chris914n6
That bottom trans mount isn't doing anything significant. But if you feel that you need the fore/aft dampening it can be moved to a better location.

I think it's purpose was to lock the drivetrain to the suspension subframe, which would have been rubber isolated also. Not a thing on your 914.

With a little more thought, I think I would cut it in half, rotate it down and weld it to the cradle (actually I'd make a bracket instead of cutting factory parts). It should help with any torque twist as it only has the one top mount.
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