I'm jumping into this project with both feet!

Took off both the front and rear trunk lids and deck lids today, as to better access everything. Man is it easier to work like that, and I don't have to worry about any paint scratches and such!



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Jumping right into it, it seems to me that the intake was flipped upside-down, and I'm not sure why. It looks as though it would fit the original way, and the way it sits now, it is loose and incorrect, as it looks like it should be bolted to the manifold by a bracket or directly, I believe how i have it positioned below is the correct way. Should I need to, for space management, I think i can also flip around the injection system, but I'll have to look more into that.



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My main concern are the unfinished items with the engine, such as the oil/fuel lines that are not a single piece, the extra/unkept wiring with leads that are just hanging out, and the (what seems to be) lengthened tube that leads to the air intake.


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Regarding the air intake, is it possible that the lengthened tube is causing the engine to run rich?



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Continued work on the car today, trying to completely understand a few things, and I'm a bit stuck on a few items, such as oil breathers. Currently, the car has two oil breathers, one near the oil tank in the front, and one where the battery would normally be, that is connected to (what I believe to be) the 'puke' reservoir, and it is the end of the line as far as oil is concerned as the system ends there

If I can, I'de like to eliminate one of these. In the first photo, you can see the breather, and in the second, you can see the reservoir I'm referring to just above where the relay board would be. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.



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It's obviously very good quality, and I think from Patrick Motorsports, but do I need this 2nd breather? I drained it today, and it seems that there wasn't that much. If I do keep it, you better believe the fittings will be changed to AN, as right now, it was only hose with clamps over the plumbing thread

Looks very cool dude.....u most be 1/2 Mexican .....I'm Mexican Jew.

External breathers are necessary, unless you can run the engine breather line to the oil tank.

Since you are changing to a stock 6 oil tank, the line from the center of the engine goes to the tank.

Another breather line from the tank, generally went to the airbox on a CIS motor. I'm not sure if the same type of setup was used on the 3.6.

Since the engine develops internal pressure (blow-by), the crankcase & oil tank must be vented .. whether to the intake of the engine or an external breather/catch-can.

And the VAF in the picture is upside down.

Richness or leanness of the fuel mixture is determined by the ECU. The VAF measures the airflow to the engine and sends the signal to the brain that determines the length of pulse to the injectors. The distance from the VAF to the engine shouldn't make a tremendous difference ... it's only air.

Un-metered air after the VAF (intake leaks) will adversely effect mixture.

Someone wiser than me would have to say weather it's needed to have a breather/catch-can at the front (with the oil tank) AND the back (with the engine).

PS: Keep me in the loop when/if you want to get rid of the tank and/or one of the breather/catch-cans

Awesome Ron, I will be running a stock /6 tank, so I'm going to do exactly that. Connect the line from the center of the engine to the stock tank, and then the other to one of the breathers. Essentially, if I can eliminate one of the three breathers, I'm very happy. Now, it still remains to be seen if all this can be done, because it all depends on whether or not I can get rid of the modified tank up front.

Furthermore, I'm not sure what the blue canister with the silver top in this photo is? It does have a lead to it, maybe a sensor of some kind?

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Yeah, what Ron said. I have the stock tank location and no external breathers on my 3.2. It just vents to the intake.

Trying seeing if there is a name on it. If it's Oberg ... it's a micro-screen filter with warning light.

In either case I can see it gets power and is grounded.

Thanks Ron! It really was a help! I actually removed that 2nd breahter above where the relay board would be and it's empty... I'm hoping to have as much space as I can in the engine bay area to keep it neat and organized should I have to work on something in there.

Continuing on with the progress (I'm trying to get in a few hours each day), I've moved the two cars next to one another, and I'm preparing to start taking components off for wrinkle black powder coat next week; sheet metal, a few plates that I plan to fab up to organize all the electronics, etc.


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As for today, my Father and I lifted up the car to try to resolve the shifting issue the 915 had before, and actually fixed it successfully! And by 'We fixed it' I mean I sat in the car and went through the gears as my Father actually addressed the problem.


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While under the car, I discovered it is actually equipped with Koni adjustables in the rear, so I may bring them over to my car as well.


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I'm not too familiar with FI systems and I always worry about fuel hose, especially with a system of this magnitude.

I drained the fuel today, and was able to take out the tank, and decide where I'm going to put the fuel pump. Does this fuel hose look good to everyone? I also have a set of Tangerine Racing SS lines, but I'll need to check to make sure the diameters are the same, wouldn't want to starve the engine of fuel.


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I was able to stay late yesterday and get the car on the 2 post lift we have at our other shop! We had to push it across to the other building with a Dually (who says big ugly bumpers aren't good for anything?) but man, what an easier way to work on the car! This is the first time I've really gotten under the thing to check everything out!

I was able to shut off my phone for a few hours and just work on the car. I think I made a rather big impact, because I got the entire exhaust off, the shift linkage, and started cleaning. Getting ready to head out now, and I'de like to get the engine drained of oil today, and drop everything so I can take off the bits that I'm sending to powder coat.


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Currently draining the oil; note to self, there is ALOT of oil! Lol.

Quick question for you daily drivers/occasional AX guys, I have what looks to be solid mounts on the trans, should I keep them? Or should I go the route of more conventional mounts?


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Engine is out! It came with a few 'surprises' too!


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Cleaning.... cleaning..... cleaning..... Trying to get this thing ready for RRC, I spent about 6 hours last night just scrubbing the gunk off the engine, trans, and sheet metal. At one point, I got 'bored' a started cleaning only half the transmission just to see the difference...





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A question for you later engine guys, can I powder coat the valve/exhaust covers?


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Are you using heat exchangers?

After market, but yes. The HE's I'm using were on there before.

Watcha doing with the ones from the other six?

Check out post #52. April 20th is coming up......again

Oooooh, I see what you're getting at, I'll see, they may go on the old man's /6, I should know within the month.




I'm been plugging away at the 3.6 project.... wires, wires, and more wires. Although everything on the car worked, I think the wiring and harnesses need a bit of work when it comes to running and routing them. I'll need to replace a bit of this 'Boat Cable' as well... oh, the things you find in a 914.....

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Friday night and where am I?

Bar? No

Strip club? .... No

Date? .... Not even close

Cleaning these babies.... Route 66 better be worth it....



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They look great all cleaned up!

Thanks Nathan!

I'm just about done pulling everything from the donor car, I'de like to get it off the lift tomorrow (Pre-Super Bowl) and get my car on it to start implementing everything.

Today was D-Day for the Oil System, Oil Cooler, and Fuel System. Gutted it all...



Also found a nice little surprise in the brake department....


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Pulled all the gauges yesterday.... There are alot of wires cut.... alot. Thinking of buying the tech guide off the Pelican site, any input?

It'll be worth it but you won't need no stinking heat.

Oh and....take the Rolex off when working on the car.

Right, I have to keep it shiny for our little Havasu boat adventure.

I hope you liked my photo rendition!

I gave it a 10. I laughed. I cried. It had it all!

I've just purchased the GT style fiberglass cover. I'm sort of concerned with the idea of the Fuel pump bolted to that metal shroud, let alone all those wires, fuel, and oil in one place in the event of a crash. I know it has the cutoff switch, but that only stops the pump, it does nothing for electricity or gas spilling out!

I'm going to see if I can modify it to add in the fan w/ the thermostat or if I can find one that fits inside.

Anyone done this? I see some of the other 3.6 guys with just the cooler

. Living in SoCal, I'm paranoid about being in traffic in LA in summer. The current setup work beautifully, I hope I can keep it THAT cool.


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Do a search for member East Coaster and his fan setup. he added three (I think) small fans at the inlet to the cooler. You could also mount a square fan on the floor (where your cutout or louvres would be) to pull air thru. As long as it fits under the shroud that is!

Good to know Jason, thanks! I'm going to see what I can up with this shroud, and should I need to, I can modify it to accommodate a fan. I'm not too bent on the GT look-alike, so as long as I have the floor pattern,from the one off eBay, I think I can pull it off.

I have a fiberglass guy in house thats awesome with modeling (see below), so maybe I'll come up with my own mold if enough people are interested


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As for now as I wait for parts to come in, I've been trying to salvage these brakes! Are they overkill? Probably. But they look pretty badass...



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With that much hp behind you, I don't think they're overkill!

I've got those on the front of my v8 conversion. Love the setup & they don't feel like overkill to me . I have a spare set of 4 of them for backups. Eric says they are damn near throwaway's when they need rebuilt. The parts alone make them not worth it. He also says they hardly need rebuilt. So clean them up & run them

Better get your ass in gear if it's going to be ready for Route 66

Thats good to hear! .... Eric told me the same thing, so I'm hoping they'll work!

I'm really trying to get this done for Route 66, I've been putting in atleast 3 hours a day Mon-Fri, and from 10-8 on weekends, it's just alot of work to get it to where I want it to be.

Tomorrow, I'm rebuilding the rear suspension that is sitting on the black car, so that it can go onto my car, the bearings are simply shot!

I'de really like to have my car on the lift by the end of day Sunday, ready to put parts on, and the 3.6 IN the car by the end of next week!

GIT ER DONE!

Removed the suspension and hubs from the black car today. Since I'm removing/installing bearings this weekend, I ordered a second set, and figured I'll have a set of trailing arms on hand, or sell them, whatever. I'll probably end up using my same arms as they are painted/reinforced and have a new set of bushings on them.

I was in the shop alone today, and with no one to help me get the hub out before I sent the arm to the press, I made up a little 'jig'


'Enriques Suspension Service'




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... Holy Crap! I was cleaning up today, and decided to clean off the 'ugly red calipers' when I realized, 'Wait.... where's the hump?!.... Oh my God!"

Paging Eric Shea!



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You scored a set of original 914/6 rear calipers .... great!!!

Those are just crappy old 4 calipers. Send them to me for disposal!

Very Good Score Weedhopper! That red is mighty though. I can fix that!

Ha! My thoughts exactly. I'm thinking along the lines of 'old school'.

Yo'll be seeing these soon, I assure you.

Those HEs look like B&B Stainless though the flanges are different which may be for the 3.6 muffler.

I have a brand new pair ... For 16 dead Franklin's I can save you all that elbow grease & sweat and then you will have the ability to hang out in bars, parties or actually find a date.

For an additional 3 Franklins + your CORES, I have a set of rebuilt 914/6 rears.

If you have a good passenger side 914/6 HE, we might be able to save you a couple of Franklins and you might finish your project for Route 66 ...

Hell, I'll even throw in a 914/6 t-shirt.

Oh and SheaZack ... step away from the 'puter and leave this one alone.

Lol. I'll see what is to become of the HE's. There's talk of putting my engine in the black car as it's already 80% a race car. Should we go that route, I'm doing headers, race prep, fiberglass bumpers, etc.

My car is once again on the lift, and now begins the assembly process. Not gonna lie, it makes me kinda sad to not use the 2.9 that, in my opinion, looks beautiful with all the work that went into it. The carbs, fan shroud, valve covers, etc.

It's been 3.5 years and you have a full blown shop. Put something in the car and get 'er done!

How's this for 'Get er' done!'


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Now I'm focusing on the oil lines. Running them up front, and in the engine bay. It's irrelevant at this point which oil cooler setup I'll be using, my my concern is making the lines work from the front wheel back.

Elephant Racing setup But alot of $$$$$



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Unfortunately for guys my age, we are usually 'fiscally impaired', so I'll have to use some extra braided lines instead of hard lines. Is there a problem with this? I still plan on mounting them to the body to have 'straight' lines. In a certain aspect, I'de think 'soft' lines would be better for vibrations. Thoughts? Is there a good reason not to do this?

I think these are -12..... I also hope they'll be big enough!


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braided lines are fine.. you may want to get a gasket in around the lines as they pass thru the 'long' holes, and perhaps install some adel clamps to keep them apart (for the same reason).