That is going to be an awesome car.

You should be able so salvage that harness, I'm thinking if you could get another harness just to use as a reference, if it was still in the reference chassis that might be better.

Use Tesa tape for wiring harness, not PVC electrical tape.

As a side note, I am surprised how well the insulated wire has held up on a 47 year old car. My engine swap I have hooked up the Honda ECU with the 914 harness and fuse block with no real problems. I did eliminate my relay board in the engine compartment.

Question for those more knowledgable than I...

I've come to recognize that my car will have two wiring systems, the original 'stock' setup that controls wipers, lights, etc and the 3.6 system. My main 'struggle' is recreating the original 'loom' that goes underneath the dash, as all other connections to the turn signals, headlights, etc. are correct.

Is there any significant difference between the years as it comes to wiring? I'm thinking to either 'splice in' the original harness from the black car, or swap it pout completely. If I were to splice, I would 'stager' the connections to not have a 'bulge' in any one-place.

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PMS sells a chassis harness adapter cable that connects the 3.6 engines be harness to the 914 chassis harness. There are still a couple other wires to run like fuel pump, tach, dme power but it’s a pretty clean set up.

All good on that front, and I have that harness. Funny enough, the 3.6 integration doesn't concern me, its establishing the 'loom' for the stock wiring.

My main problem is finding the 'form' the harness originally had, and connecting all the stock equipment; Wipers, Hazards, etc.

I have a spare midyear harness. If you think it would help, let me know and I'll send it your way.

Very interested, please PM me. Gracias!

Welp... 'That-is-that'. Harness that was originally 'mated' with the 3.6 is out of the car, and I'm about halfway done cleaning and re-taping it. Using this opportunity to give it a 'deep clean' before pulling my original out and placing this one.

Shout-out to @mepstein for the off of a mid-range!

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For those following along, this is a great video from the guys at Restoration Design. Whether you are removing or installing a wiring harness.

Really can't recommend it enough....

https://youtu.be/meuFs3HaUj0

Checking in to stay motivated and current....

Very carefully, I'm trying to restore the harness and make it as 'clean' as possible. This includes isolating the leads, shrink-tubing any hot-points, cleaning off 45-years of grit, and re-taping. I originally ordered cloth-tape from 914rubber, however this harness already had some holding it together that was in pretty good condition, so I'm using the 3M version. The cloth-like stuff will be used in the front and rear trunks, with the plan to later convert to safety sheathing.

Pretty straight forward, as everything is connected, my biggest challenge is using reference photos from another thread to get it close to the stock form it once had.

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I wish I would have done this years ago.

For all of you dealing with a wiring 'rats nest' where you don't even know where to start, find a car with an acceptable harness, and dig in. Rip it out, put it in your car, and move on.

Learn from my mistake. This one cost me several years, and much frustration.


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While intimidating, this only took about 3-4 hours to remove. An additional 3-4 sessions of 2-3 hours were spent cleaning and sorting wires, re-soldering and re-taping. While not completely done (going with cloth tape or safety sheathing in the front/rear trunks), this is finally at the point I can pull pout the existing harness and start running this on my own, and testing devices.

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I realized that I forgot to answer your question about the DME relay.

The DME relay is the evolution of the Double Relay found on the 914 1.8 L-Jet systems. It is two relays in one box, and they are notorious for failing at the wrong time. The failure is due to vibration breaking solder joints in the relay.

If you study the 964 wiring diagram long enough, you will see that the DME relay is internally wired the same way as the relays on the 914-4 relay board. The first relay turns on power to the DME unit, the injectors, and the AFM. It also supplies power to the relay coil for the second relay. The second controls the fuel pump power , and the O2 sensor.

On the first relay, pin 30 gets power straight from the battery. Pin 86 is grounded. Pin 85 gets power from the ignition switch. Pin 87 is a red/white striped wire that supplies the power to the harness. It also supplies power to the second relay.

The second relay gets power on pin 30 and from the first relay. Pin 85 comes from the battery, and pin 86 goes to the fuel pump and O2 sensor. Pin 87 goes to the DME fuel pump wire. When the DME sees pulses on the crank sensor, it grounds the wire hooked to pin 87, and the fuel pump runs.


I am currently collecting the parts to build a brand new DME harness correctly wired for a 914. It will plug into the 914-4 relay board, and use the relays on it for the DME power. They are already wired correctly. I intend to find the guy selling refurbished relay boards and buy one. Once done, the DME wiring will be clean and easy to troubleshoot.

I am even going to draw up a wiring diagram for it. :-)

And after doing some research, I am going to upgrade my coils to the 993 coil pack setup. Porsche recommends it for the 964. They will be mounted in the same place as they are now.

Let me know if you need anything else.

Clay

Gracias! Looking forward to it!

Currently running the 3.6 harness.

Goodbye and GOOD RIDDANCE to the old!

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Pop quiz....

Any 'Pro-Tips' for getting this grommet to fit? Main grommet located just by the board that leads to the front trunk / gas tackle area.

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Note for anyone following along, and conducting a similar swap:

Not sure of the specifics between years, but there are some differences between a late harness and an early harness. Also, some notes to keep in mind if you're replacing / refurbishing your harness.

- Running the harness: The locations of the 'tabs' or clips located behind the pedals are about 2-3 inches higher on later cars than early cars. This makes the length of the harness slightly different, but most affects how the harness is loomed. You have to get creative, and be patient, around the point where the grounds are, next to the fuse board. As the harness flows differently, this area gets very tight (Trunk release, speaker pods, etc).


If refurbishing, tape your harness, but do not use so much tape as to make it inflexible. I made this mistake, and it took a bit of 'massaging' to get everything to sit right.



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- Grommet sizes: Some small diameter differences between early and late. Picture below, a late grommet (large) vs an early. Not necessarily a big problem, however the hole to pass the grommet through is closer to the fuse-board on the early cars, whereas on the later cars, it's closer to the gas tank. I suppose you could use an early grommet on a later car, but this just won't work with a later grommet on an early car.

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- Running the harness through the firewall: Big item...

Tape your leads! Tape your leads! Tape your leads!

It is very easy to get 'caught up' and snagged. Even though I taped my harness to maintain all the lengths, this happened to me, and I should have used more. I got frustrated, and starting pulling and pushing harder, and almost ruined a lot of the work I had done when organizing the harness before extracting it from the previous car. Furthermore, using lube makes it even easier for the leads and branches to 'slip out'. This oversight nearly ruined the whole conversion, and ended up costing me 1-2 hours after everything was in getting the lengths right.

Additionally, take plenty of pictures, from multiple angles, before starting anything tricky. In this example, I had to do that with the pinned connector that goes in the engine bay. It needed to be removed, disassembled, and reassembled.



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- Repairs: Once in, use this opportunity to fix any questionable or broken wires and connections.

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- Patience: You're going to experience some compromising and uncomfortable situations during this little exercise. Give yourself plenty of checkpoints to take a break. In some cases, walk away if you are getting frustrated, and start on another section.

All-in-all, installing this harness took me about 9-12 hours, not including prep, cleaning, research and planning.

Finally, something else to share besides wiring...

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Moving along, received a shipment from 914rubber.com!
Hats off to Mark, as I made the mistake of not differentiating between my 'Cart' and 'Wishlist', so my order was split in-two (d'oh).

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No matter, moving along with wrapping up the wiring, installing the front and rear trunk components, and cleaning up the wiring in the center tunnel. I must confess, I did use 'butt-connectors' (shame on me) for the lower gauge cables.

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For the main power, I've sourced the below parts from Amazon for hot leads and to have a '12v Pick-up' in the front trunk. Power distribution block will be located near the battery, somewhere in the general 'hell-hole' area (suggestions welcome). The bulkhead connector will go somewhere on the front trunk bulkhead, and power equipment in front with its own dedicated line and set of fuses (Oil Cooler, Fuel-pump, possibly an amp).

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New components going in! Yesterday was spent focusing on batter wiring and power distribution. Ended up installing the following with the 4-positive (+) ports, as well as running a dedicated ground cable for the ECU. Everything gets safety sheathing. Also, 2x new battery cables, each are 2-gauge @ 24" and make for a very clean install.

- 2x 10 gauge - Stock 914 wiring
- 2x 10 gauge - Stock 914 wiring
- 2x 10 gauge - 1 to front trunk (Oil cooler fans, fuel pump, etc.) / 1 reserve (center console).
- 1x 12 gauge (Orange) - Dedicated to Bosche 3.6 ECU.

- 2x 14 gauge (Brown) - Dedicated ground for the ECU.

I've got the general form for the ECU wiring, just need to clean-up the former wiring, but I think you'll get the picture. From here, the cables going from the ECU to the front and dash also get safety sheathing, whereas the stock wiring will just get taped in the factory manner. Overall goal is to separate the old from the new, while still remembering the 70's methods.

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Look'n good. Man that is a lot of work!

You said it! It's a bit difficult right now because as I'm installing the harness, I'm deleting connectors and runs that are not necessary or applicable to the conversion. Additionally, while I'm not an expert by any means, there was a lot of 'stitched together' wires that makes it a bit harder to decode. Though it gets tedious, I learned my lesson last time - get it operational, then route it correctly. To add to that, bringing over the original harness that was mated to the 3.6 was the best decision I made in a decade! Everything is progressing forward, and I can start unboxing all the equipment I had saved up (Switches, Lights, etc)

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As for the rest of the days progress, I'm still cleaning up the harness and new connections with safety sheathing, and beginning to decode and clean up the wiring at the the gauges. To try to expedite, I prepped and painted the dash so that it can dry and cure as I progress on other things. Undercoating below, and a VHT product that I found for Roll bar and Chassis paint. Hopefully, curing over night will be enough, and I can start laying down dash vinyl tomorrow, and the Dash top when it gets here next week.

Pro-tip: SO MUCH easier to work on the dash and vinyl while OUT of the car.

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Question for the pros:

Ordered a lot of stuff from 914rubber.com (thanks to everyone there, btw). I've laid out the front trunk main seal, but I'm not sure which side is up-or-down. Also, for those that have installed this, do I need any adhesive? My memory tells me I don't however I bought some from pep-boys, and I'm thinking to put a small bead in the corners.

Thanks in advance!

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As to the last post; For reference, the 'top' of the seal is the last photo. Hope this helps with anyone reading this!

E - Is your father going to complete his car?

@mepstein - No plans not to! Most everything I'm doing on mine, I'm 'practicing' for his. Finishing up his 6 should be much easier; The stock wiring is there, he's going with the carb'd 2.9 seen earlier in this thread, and we have most all the parts.

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Spent the majority of the weekend shifting focus from the wiring, which is coming together, to the dash so that I can start verifying function, turning items 'on', and work in a bit of a cleaner manner. Top-pad for the dash expected today, thanks again to 914rubber.com, so I wanted to get the front-face completed.

Researching the different methods on the site, I went with 3M Adhesive spray (level 90, in the green can). Taped off each of the areas to not get a lot of overspray, and went with a perforated micro-dot pattern. I wanted to use a single piece, as I don't like the stock look of the dash broken up in different places by the radio plate and such. Though it was intimidating, so long as you do the proper prep work (plan it out, have all tools ready, wait for the adhesive to properly 'set up') this is something that is pretty easy. Mark off your general size, spray both sides, place the material, massage it into the crevices, and trim.

I'm really liking the way the micro-dot / perforated material looks on the dash face. So much so, I grabbed some spare parts to see how it will look with the components mounted. Eager to get the kit from 914rubber, and get this dash in the car today / tomorrow!

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Prepping the fuel tank area before placing the tank, adding hose clamps and hardware to the blower motor and vents. I'm taking a 'while I'm in the area' approach, and cleaning the dust and debris that has gathered over the last 10 years of starting / stopping work. I ended up removing, and reciting the blower motor inside to be true satin black, as well as touched up the black rubberized undercoating in the front trunk.

Though this is a 'home build', I'm really trying to make everything look as immaculate and cleanly-done as possible.

NOTE: While I'm here, does anyone have a diagram of how to correctly connect the wires from the heater control to the vents?

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Awesome progress @RiqueMar

Received these today; Shout out to @ValcoOscar , cannot wait to get them on. This will be one of those little details that people and myself notice. Also, make sure to hop on over and check out his search and keychains, very cool!

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Dash top-padding.... Easier than I thought. Note to all those following along, that will do a similar project, and have ordered from 914rubber.com. The black (darker) side material goes down and mates to the dash, whereas the grey (lighter) side of the material goes up, and will mate with the vinyl. The 'pad' portion goes just up to the edge of the dash and vents, whereas the finished material wraps around and over.

Really liking how this turned out, and hats off to @Mikey914 and the team at 914rubber for a very nice product. I did make one small 'knick' just behind the gauge cluster (got a bit too cavalier with 'trimming), hopefully the dash-pad will cover it!

Helpful tip: I used a bit of painters tape around the edges to make sure the curved portion 'holds down' and doesn't release. Other than than, be sure to not push down too hard when setting down the material, this may create 'dimples' all over the dash top, which are super noticeable once the car is outside.

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Cruising through old-posts on this site to see if there were any helpful tips before putting in the dash, I did run into one that was great. Prior to setting it in, I cleaned out the defroster vents along the front windscreen (very easy is the windshield out), and sprayed with a bit of interior satin black paint to give it a fresh look (I used SEMs).

From what I understand, this is something that the factory did, and I'm glad I ran across this off-hand tip. Oh, ALSO, if you can, replace the bottom 'liner' that goes around the vents, that sits underneath the dash... you're there anyway!

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Look'n sharp can't wait to see the completed project. You are taking your time and not rushing. That is the real key with many of these projects. It's a big project, but by taking your time and working out the details as you move forward it will show when complete.

All with the help of great vendors and a great community!

THE. DASH. IS. IN!

... Just as putting on the top-pad was easier than I expected, putting in the dash was HARDER than I expected. I definitely wish I had a second set of hands, because it is a lot of small adjustments, all while being carful not to push too hard on. the new vinyl and padding. My mistake to avoid; remove everything from the car interior, so it is easy to stand inside the cab and set in the dash. you do not want to step on any stray wires, equipment, parts, etc.

Once in, its just a matter of securing the bolts (located in the fuel area). This is a bit difficult with a standard 10mm wrench/socket set, and I image it would be a lot easier with all the equipment (Blower, vents, hoses, etc.) out of the way. Frankly, I don't know how I could have done this patiently with the windshield installed.

Once the dash is in, its a sight-to-see! I plan on running a 914/6 style steering column and cutting the column wires to match, more on that later, and two more pull-type switches to the right of the the column for seat heaters, rear defrost, manual oil cooler ON, or USB charging port.

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I am so glad to see this project back on track.

Just trying to hold a candle to your build @Cairo94507 !


Quick question for anyone active right now... I’m running the Camp 914 style ‘Pilot Lights’ and have long lost the paperwork. Is it recommended to connect then just as the stock fog-lights? I see there is an inline fuse on one of the legs.

Nice job on the harness. Lots of work tracing out everything. Looks like you have it all sorted but just in car here is a diagram I made when I did mine.

Daron

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I think I had seen this before, very helpful, thank you @racerx9146

I mounted the coils to the fan shroud right next (above) the distributors.

I wish someone had made one for a 3.2. I can actually understand it. Mostly.
@racerx914

@SirAndy - This is my setup as it currently sits, but I think I will (need to) eventually relocate them. IIRC, the free-floating bracket isn't good for the components long term, eager to heard the 'experts' thoughts on the matter.

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Before my next update, wanted to take a moment to highlight' a product that I purchased through another member, and see if anyone else has feedback on some of the things I'm struggling with.

I purchased the Auto-Atlanta 'Body Hardware Kit' and am really struggling with 'what-is-what' in the kit, and I'm someone that's pretty familiar with hardware organization. To be sure, it's a marked improvement preferable to running off to the hardware store everytime I find something lacking, however, I think the organization is very vague and would need to significantly improve before recommending this to anyone else.

The Pros:
- Looks like or close to original hardware
- The 3-piece set comes with a small .pdf inventory

The Cons:
- Limited to the 'interior' of the car (title states 'body', a bit confusing)
- Not very organized. Though it comes with a doc showing an inventory, it's difficult and tedious to determine which bin corresponds to which item on the inventory. This would be much easier if there were some sort of number designation (Bin 1... 2... 3... etc.) or a dedicated sheet to each bin. Even a small card in each bin would suffice and take away a lot of my guesswork.
- I wish there where more to it. Reading deeper into AA's site, I see there are separate kits for different areas; Dashboard mounting, Seat rails, etc. But, aren't both of these part of the interior?

Summary
It's an 'OK' start, but I feel like this product needs work. An 'easy-win' for Auto Atlanta would be a clearer way of product designation and description. I'm not a fan of criticizing 'the one who is doing', however after buying this product, even from someone who didn't end up using it, I don't feel that 'warm and fuzzy' feeling that comes along with a good-purchase.

.... But hey, what do I know?


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Moving on, taking just a small break from wiring, I decided to focus on some of the new items coming in from vendors and private sellers. You know who you are, thanks to you all!

First up, doors, trim and 'skid-plates'. These were fairly easy to get in, really well made from 914rubber.com. Small tip: Use a rubber mallet for the door panel inner rubber . The pieces from 914rubber.com are high-quality, and the interior support is a little tricky to get on. My only issue seems to be with the absolute last screw on the drivers-side entry. For some reason, I cannot get that last guy in. The only thing I can think of is that the bolt-head broke off at some point, and not the body is sitting inside.

Next, the outer door seals and the front and rear bulkhead seals. Same technique used here, gently massaging it on and when needed, bashing it with a rubber mallet. Thats it for now, going to get on more nice pieces and convince myself this is more important than my gauges at the moment.



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If i remember correctly, my mounting bracket came from PMS. It's been on there for 10+ years without any issues.

https://patrickmotorsports.com/products/eng-993-602-cam-pmp

@racerx9146 question for you.... On your conversion, did you by any chance use the Patrick Motorsport conv. harnesses?

On todays episode of 'Completely Overdoing it with Enrique' - Electrical work continues! The front trunk and all the stock equipment (Headlights, Turn-signals, Horns, etc.) are done. Wherever I could, I harvested elements of my old harness, and tied them into the new, making sure the wire colors and designations match. Wherever the connections exit the body, such as with the fog-lights and horns, I've wrapped the new connections in safety sheathing, and soldered them into the existing harness.

A bit more work than I expected, as I had to partially un-wrap the harnesss along the front-trunk wall, but very happy with the result, and the fact that everything is soldered, wrapped, has new grommets/fittings, and is color-correct. Now, save for the oil-cooler and fuel-pump, the front trunk wiring is complete. Need to verify cable connections on the blower motor and air-vents, and reassemble.

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My build uses that bracket also

I still have 964 coils, but when I upgrade, I will put them where they are now, on a 914-6 CD box bracket bolted to the battery tray. All the wiring is already located there.

Continuing on the wiring at the gauges, and its a bit of a mess (more on that later). For now, I've focused on installing the small items, and have been looking for the 'easy wins' throughout the car. While these are simple things, its nice to see the car getting new and reconditioned parts, and touched up wherever needed.

One thing I will mention though, the small parts add up; New rubber, seals, reconditioned locks, odds-and-ends, and its not nearly as 'fun' as buying a new suspension or motor or interior parts. It's tedious. My advice for anyone imparting on a project like this, invest in zip-log bags, boxes and totes. It is so easy to take off bolts, and just throw them in a box and label interior.... and then that box gets lost. Use the bags, throw the part or bolt or screw in a bag or box, and write on it with a sharpie. 'Future you' will thank 'past you'.

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