Back tracking a little, as I promised myself I wouldn't update this until the engine was in.... So i'm going to rewind a bit and explain the process leading up to the engine actually getting in the car.....

See as I wanted to get all the components ready, I made sure to first clean the transmission. This took about 2-3 hours of hardcore scrubbing with brushes, engine cleaner, and rags. Though it still has an aged look, all the 'gunk' is removed from the transmission. Brents (wertygrog) came over the same day I was doing this and look at me in shock with the amount of filth I was covered in.







On Monday my Dad and I effectively took most of the the day off, and finally installed the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel. Compliments to this as you may have read earlier in the thread, where a new pilot bearing, new rear main seal, and cleaning of the area behind the flywheel, and in a 'while we are here' move, we ended up installing a high torque starter... why not, right?









At this point, the engine was just about ready to go in, when we realized we had to install the Jwest shift linkage kit. Important note: If you have a stock /6 motor mount, this requires a bit of alignment and creativity.

Getting close!!

With the Jwest kit installed, and the engine below the car, we almost forgot about the fan belt, it was here that caused a bit of delay.

Important part: Unfortunately for me, the stud coming out of my original alternator had only 3-4 'spacer rings' on it for mounting the belt 'pulley'. Whoever installed this previously while the engine was in the car must have had one hell of a time, because the stud was nearly stripped. YOU MUST HAVE 6 RINGS ON THE STUD AT ALL TIMES.

This setback forced me to 'update' my alternator. I had to take the entire fan component off a 3.0 SC (this had the 'newer style' stud, with an allen bolt in the center for better control), that we have sitting around, disassemble the mount, pop off the fan, remove the cone, disassemble my original, rewire the new alternator and re-assemble everything. Rather annoying when you have your engine ready to go into the car.

However, the silver lining of all this was that the 3.0 alternator was recently rebuilt. Nice.

Finally, with the alternator installed, pulley on, and starter on, it was time for the engine to go in the car, right after a quick photo for posterity.

I made sure to put the bolt facing down, I think it's easier to access it and take off the nut if you should need to drop the engine. As for the rear mounting portion, we added new 911 style mounts.

It was actually rather easy to get the /6 in. Using the stock mount, you do not have to take off any sheet metal during your installation.

your almost ready for RRC. Looks great!!!

I still have your shirt

Now that the engine is in, I think i've 'turned the corner' and the project is going to go much faster.

One of my favorite things to do on this project has been to find components of the car that look horrible, torn apart, essentially gone, and bring them back to life. Today, I concentrated on a set of Factory /6 heater flapper boxes I found in storage.

After a bath in the parts cleaner, I pulled them out to discover that while one was alright, the other was in pretty bad shape, having been welded together at one point, the lever bent, and the 'top' coming off.

It's time to move on to 'fun stuff'! Like braided lines. I think for now, I'm going to route the oil lines almost as a stock /6, with the exception of adding the thermostat (not sure which one yet). Once I have the car on the road, I'l either add a GT style cooler, or a fan cooler near the transmission. Any opinions on either?

Looks great Rique! The up front cooler is probably the preferred method, especially if you are going to track the car. Unfortunately you need to plumb all the way up front and lose some of your front trunk. If its just a street ride, you can probably get by with the fan mounted cooler in the back. That is what I'm going to do.
If for some reason it doesn't work out, you only have a few bolt holes in your trunk to deal with.

Great work so far. Keep it up

I'm quoting my own post! Thinking more about it, you have basically created a GT, which would have the cooler up front. Are you doing a cage, race seats, etc?

I'm thinking more along the line of a 'sport' package. I mean, I have the proper upgrades to do some occasional AX and such, but it's certainly not a race car, just stuff I like that kept the originality of the car while still being 'different'.

No cage for me, but I did come across a real Konig seat for $100! Now I just need to find a twin for it, or sell it and get a nice set of seats.

My only challenge as I see it with placing the cooler up front is modifying the front valence, as I really like the look of the LE type. However, this is all in the future, as for right now, I'm just going to run the stock cooler on board the engine, as it seems to be 'safe' for engines under 3.0. Any thoughts on this? It seems to be what I keep coming back to on other peoples builds.

I've heard that 2.4 and lower do not require a cooler, but I guess it really depends on where you live, how you drive, etc. Obviously you can just monitor the temps and get a cooler if it looks like you need it.

I've read up a lot on the oil cooler debate and there is no right answer for all situations. Your location, driving style, transmission ratios, shift points, city vs. highway, long hills, competition use, finances and certainly engine all come into play. Some engines run hotter than others no matter what the size. Some people rev their engines and work them harder.

My thought is to take your worst case scenario and build for that. Mine is a sunny 95 degree day, 10 mile traffic jam that is moving at 0-5 mph for 3+ hours.
It's happened to me before so that’s what I'm planning for.

To play it safe, I'll use the oil cooler on the engine, a GT style front oil cooler, GT front valance, thermostat, stock steel front bumper, GT hard lines, probably enlarge the holes behind the bumper, fiberglass GT shroud, hot air exhaust under car and probably an electric fan or 2 that kicks on manual or auto for slow moving traffic. I'll also test the oil temp sensor and gauge to make sure it's calibrated correctly.

The sad thing is, I'm probably just spinning my wheels thinking about alternatives, and will end up doing the front mounted cooler.

I had a similar instance last month, Mark. I was heading to Vegas, and prior to the trip I was trying to get my car done, with my fall-back being the 3.6 if the 2.9 wasn't finished. Turned out, that I ended up taking the Wagon as some friends needed a ride, but thats not the important part of the story. Somewhere North-East of Riverside, we hit traffic for about an hour, with temperatures at around 105, and I remember thinking to myself, "Wow, I'm gonna need a cooler".

I'm fairly certain that the guy who was running this engine before me (in a 911) had an additional cooler set-up, because the oil line was modified to bend around the back of the engine.

My epiphany was driving up to VT and seeing a 10 mile backup in the other direction. It made me remember all the times I've been caught in a jam. Guys talk about running a 3.2 with no extra cooling but my luck doesn't work that way.

That oil line "bent around the back of the engine" is the stock 911 setup. Think about it!

It didn't go to a cooler .... it went to the oil tank.

Hmm, I always thought it went similar to a /6 on a 911, just without the bend next to the cooler. But then again, I was basing that off of the 3.2 I have on a stand here in the shop.

when I said think about it, I meant for you to realize that the engine installed in a 911 is opposite a /6.

I modified the line by cutting it at the top of the hoop, soldering a fitting on to run to the cooler that I have in the rear trunk. Keeps the oil line away from the heat exchangers.

Now I'm confused, because I just checked on the SC outside, and the oil line is different than the one originally on my engine. I was under the impression that this was the stock setup on a 911, which is similar to a 914, only without the 90 degree bend at the end below the oil tank...




Whereas the following picture is of the line that was connected to my engine when I got it, it bends and exits under the flywheel and has a 90 turn next to the onboard oil cooler.

Looks good!

Finish that bad boy up already!! I can't wait to go for a ride. It'll motivate me to install the 2.7L in Bluetiful.

They changed the orientation with the SC.

You want a stock 914/6 hard line? .... have one in the garage.

I actually do have one, but I'm concerned about the line diameter, my reason being that the original /6 was a 2.0, whereas mines a 2.9, thus the conversion to braided...

Any thoughts?

And by the way.... Now that the engine is in, can I finally pop this on? I've had it for about 2-3 years!

Porsche went from 18mm? to 22mm on the oil pump feed line. Thought was that the larger engine might starve for oil at higher RPMS I suppose. Most use the later size or -16 (3/4") for the feed as it is not under pressure only gravity feed and what suction the oil pump creates. I have heard that "real" racers use -22.

Mine is -16. I will be changing to 22mm stock line.

They also increased the scavenge line size to 22mm, but the fitting at the block is still the same internal size ... go figure. I run larger diameter block connector into 3.4" flex line. Scavenge line is under pressure.

Now the fun part..... More engine wiring.

I've installed the relay board (the bottom with a new layer of resin/gelcoat), and I've started on the engine wiring. It's alot of work, but I'm essentially creating a new harness, and I'm committed to using the same wire colors and codes with new heat shrink tubing.

I've essentially broken it up into three branches. Starting at the 12-pin connector for the engine wiring, all the wires are bundled into one harness. About 6 inches into the harness, the first 'branch' containing the oil pressure and temperature wires brakes off.

The remaining harness contains reverse lights, starter, 2 coil wires, and your idiot light, and stays that way until it reaches the sheet metal hole nearest the starter, and thus exits the starter wire, and reverse lights, we'll call this the second 'branch'

The third and final branch contains the 2 coil wires and your 'idiot light' that connects to the sensor that is centered on top of the engine. Once the 'idiot light' exits the final branch, the two coil wires run up the fan shroud, under the carb crossbar, and to the coil.

All thats left now is wiring the CDI box, and I've not checked on how to tackle that, any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'm assuming they go mainly to the coil and are not connected to the relay board?

So close! Can't wait until you post the video or it running!

Wiring, wiring, and more wiring.

This weekend, when I wasn't trying to figure out my CDI Box wiring (see my other thread here CDI Box Help! ) I was sitting in the cab sorting through wires. As I think I've said before, I was the dumbass that unplugged all my wires and unwound my loom during the paint and repair phase..... big mistake.

I now have to essentially sit here with my wiring harness and diagram and separate each connection into groups (tach, speedo, 12 pin connector) as well as figure how to tie in my /6 ignition switch.... fun, fun fun.











In the meantime (usually at night) I've been trying to wrap my head around my CDI box wiring... It's a mess..

I'm pretty bummed.... So basically, I've been sitting in the cab for 3 days now, while it's on the lift above my Dads /6. I've decided to start from scratch as far as the wiring goes, as I keep finding myself pulling one wire, only to find it's hooked up to a tangled mess.

It's going to mean some back-tracking, as almost everything is completely hooked up and tested, but it's the right way to do it, and presents a good oportunity to run the harness correctly.... It just sucks though... **sigh**

As for now, I think the best course of action is to take it from the top, wiring all the gauges first, then to move onto to the switches and work right to left across the dashboard. After each of those is complete and tested, I'll then integrate the /6 stuff like the ignition switch and wiper motor. It's the long way of going about it, but I think in the end I'll have a clean wiring setup with everything run correctly and alot less confusing.

Since starting this approach last night, I have the Combo gauge isolated, tagged, and run nicely. Hopefully today I can get the tach and speedo done, and start moving onto to switches.

Being my first 'wiring job' this is certainly trial by fire. Getting organized is half the battle. Since having updated last, everyday at three PM I head to the car and plant myself for 4-5 hours. After 'taking everything from the top' I completely disconnected all the leads leading to the board and divided everything up nice and neat in different runs; Ground wires, wires coming from front, wires coming from back, and wires that have a union that connect to the board but run front-to-back.

In my limited experience, I find it easiest to disconnect all the leads that run either simply connect to the relay board to a switch or gauge, or leads that run between gauges. Save these as well as the 12-pin leads for last and they'll be out of the way, and you don't have to worry about 20-something leads flying around and getting tangled.

I've also come to realize that it is easiest to connect all the 'simple' leads. These are the leads that have 1 connection, and either come up the center tunnel of the car, or come from the front trunk.

The goal is that once I have everything nicely organized, and positioned and connected, I'll remove the zip ties and either run safety sheathing or wire wrap.

I'm still hard at work wiring, but that didn't stop the 'SoCal group' from making an impromptu trip to Cars and Coffee this last weekend. And it's a good think I went too! The next night, the car along with my Dads 355 was vandalized .... We live next to a High School, and it appears school is definitely back in session.... I guess mustard is the new 'cool car award'

Unfortunately for me, I left the window a bit cracked, so they where able to stick the bottle nozzle just inside the car and spray. Also, I don't run a rain tray....

What dicks.....

The older I get, the more I dislike punk ass kids.

Why the hell would you do that

That sucks. Sorry to hear of the trouble Dumb punks doing dumb things.

I am so sorry that happened, stupid kids!! What is that? Mustard? Can it wash out? I sure hope so.....

WOW! Very bummed to hear and see...very tough to shoot them and get away with it too...

Hopefully no permanent damage was done--I know some of those things can eat away at finishes and leave a reminder of the fukt up antics that you were subject to.

Hopefully your dad's car is OK too, I can only imagine the $$ toll on that one...

Dude, I would personally fuch someone up for doing that. I know all about Karma but I would definitely help Karma and speed up the process if I knew who did that.
Homey don't play that sh*t! Pay back is a mutherfucher!

Hope you find out who did it and you hang the little bast*rds up by their ovaries!

Thanks guys!

Yes, it was Mustard. The 914 got the Mustard treatment, and the Ferrari got the eggs. Unfortunately for my Dad, whoever threw the eggs got OUT of the car, stood infront of his hood, and slammed it down on the hood, cracking the clear coat and messing up the hood. Fortunately, it's the 'old car' and it's getting sold soon.

As for the 914, my main concern was the seats, as it has fabric and not vinyl centers. Other than that, it was a bitch to clean out the engine bay.... but whatever.

I guess I console myself in the thought that people who do this will never have nice things because they can't respect them... unfortunately, it's the tagline for my generation

That sucks...i just don't get it. A couple weeks ago i came out to leave for work and my truck was basted in barbeque sauce...and there was a pile of pancake batter on the rear right tire...???!!! I tried to decipher a message in that but i just couldn't.

Hope you get it cleaned up with no permanent effects. Sucks to smell like Weinerschnitzel :/

Holy assholes batman! That blows. Mustard doesn't even taste good.

Good luck on the cleanup. I have some sweet yellow plaid seats you can install in the meanwhile.

I'll be putting some rounds through my SKS this weekend if you need to relieve some frustration.

Damn that sucks man! So sorry to hear that..

Who's ready for a stakeout!? If you have issues getting the mustard out, I've had excellent luck using tide to go on white shirts from random mustard and ketchup stains...

It doesn't help that you're next to that highschool... They dont have a good reputation for anything at El Camino.. Of course I can say that after going to Rancho.... haha

Oooo 914's at the gun range day!?

Lets...

Thanks again guys.

I was able to get all of the Mustard out by letting it slightly dry, and then getting at it with a small knife, and getting the rest out with warm water. Other than that, it just sucked getting in the engine bay.

Whatever, I'm over it.

As for the project car, it's really crunch time. I want to have the car on the road in the next month, so I can have 2-3 weeks to clean-up and fine tune everything before Rennsport. I've been hard at work on wiring, and I'm trying to make additional wiring notes and translations for this conversion, as there are a few passing notes and tips, but nothing really on Paper.

The closest I really came was a set of notes Cap'n Krusty sent me, which have been pretty helpful, but other then that, there's not much in the way of something someone can pass on.

Below is an example of what I want to do for a conversion wiring diagram (albeit small), and my hope is that it will help more people in the future with their /6 conversions. I also hope to have other members involved, so that we can make it as accurate as possible.

I want to create diagrams for matching the relay baord to engine function, pin connections, /6 dahs switches, etc.


Click to view attachment

They're Pricks

We got hit again, this time the Smart got spray painted. Luckily, after the incident last week, we had already put up 5 video cameras and got the whole thing on film. Additionally, they dropped a receipt from Wal-Mart showing them buying 5 dozen eggs, spray paint, masks, gloves, and mustard.

Somebody doesn't like you!

Way to go. Payback time.

I'm tellin' you Enrique.. it's time for an armed stakeout...

I think once he gives the video to the po-po, that won't be necessary.