Another station break that I wanted to share on my thread...

Took this weekend to spend some time with my Dad on his newest adventure with Miata Superspec racing via SpeedVentures. A lot of fun visiting and hanging out with the group at Autoclub Speedway in Fontana, CA. If you ever get the chance to do a track day or Speed Ventures event at this location (or any for that matter) I cannot recommend it enough. Hope everyone enjoys the photos!

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Back to our standard-914 content...

Work continues on the oil-system, and I'm happy to finally get the lines (mostly) wrapped up. The connection from the oil-tank / engine-out to the bulkhead fittings on the passenger-side longs is complete, as is the connection from the bulkhead fitting to the thermostat (routed through the inside of the cabin, under the gas-tank and into the front trunk).

Also, I'de like to take this moment to mention how much I DO NOT love working with braided steel lines. For those of you moving in a similar direction, I highly suggest watching the various techniques on YouTube, investing in gloves, and learning how to curse in 4-languages... You'll need all of those! For future reference, I can see the benefit when running them outside a shielded area, but will be moving to nylon whenever possible.

NOTE: For those creating a similar solution, the connection from the thermostat to the oil-cooler is where it gets tricky, depending on where you mount the thermostat. Whereas originally I was going to run a 45º and then about 6" of braided hose, I find that I will have to install a 2"-3" 'extender' on the oil-cooler, then a 90º bend to be able to route this correctly (with the 45º, it would rub or 'kink' against the support below the headlight), see the last picture of where things don't line up like I was expecting, and the extender(s) I found on JEGS, not sure which one will end up being the solution....


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Small update... swung by the ranch (Garage) yesterday evening and was pleasantly surprised to see these beauties in primer!

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Continuing work on project 3.6, following photo show the front trunk equipment placement and mock-up before repaint. As there has been a lot going on here, I've tried to summarizer everything in this entry for anyone following along, or who wants to do something similar.

- Top Right Corner on front bulkhead - Amplifier bracket template (actual is 1/4" ABS)
- Designed this myself, laser-cut. Used metric 8mm x 35 bolts back-drilled from the 'gas tank side' of the trunk. To isolate and stand off for wires and speaker cables, I added plastic spacers (approx 1.5"). Note: For the top-left bolt, it is necessary to drill through top-support of the bulkhead/firewall to have access to the tubing.

- Top Left Corner on front bulkhead - 3.6 Fram Fuel-filter
- As with the amplifier, back-drilled from the 'gas-tank side' of the trunk for easy access / studs.

- Bottom-center on front bulkhead - 3.6 Fuel pump with isolators and bracket
- Careful here, as it's close to the sway bar. Mounted the fuel pump on a bracket with 1" rubber isolators to reduce vibration. This location was chosen as it's (nearly) the lowest point of the front trunk, and doesn't interfere with the oil-cooler shroud.

- Driver Side, below headlight - Aux Relay / Fuse Box
- Found this on Amazon (Link here - Relay/Fusebox). Great model and very tidy. This will hold all fuses / relays for equipment in the front trunk; Fuel Pump, Amplifier, Oil-Cooler Fans, Work-light. As I had to slightly re-route the stock-harness for the Driver-Side headlights and turn-signal, I added an isolated wire-clamp.

- Center-bottom of front trunk - Louvered sheet metal
- Available on Patrick Motorsports (PMS Link here). Pretty straight-forward.

- Front trunk Left - Oil Cooler thermostat
- For those unfamiliar; When cool, the device returns oil to the engine. When up to operating temp., it will allow oil to flow to the front-mounted oil cooler. Additionally, I've mounted a Setrab inline thermal switch, also from Patrick Motorsports (PMS Website and link here). This is a 'set it and forget it measure'. When the oil temp gets to 190º, this will kick-on the 3x Spal fans (Link here).

- Front trunk - Oil Cooler connections
- I found it easiest to use a 90º bend and a small adapter to make everything fit and flow into the front-mounted oil-cooler. Cooler is a Setrab unit and, shocker-shocker, found on Patrick Motorsports (Oil Cooler - Link here) In case I haven't mentioned it, all lines and connections are AN12, and generally available on JEGS.com, Offroadwarehouse.com, etc.

- Shroud
- Used the GT replica shroud, this is available most anywhere. Cut the side out for the oil in/out to exit, and a small notch on the Drivers side for the fan electrical connections to pass under, making removing and installing easy. Additionally, I added 4x tabs to the top and bottom, drilled through the shroud and body, then welded 6mm nuts for the bolts to hold onto. No need to climb under the car or take off the bumper to remove, and no ugly sheet-metal screws

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Once complete with the mockup, it's time to undo all the work seal up the new bolts and old-bolt holes, sand-down and re-shoot the front trunk, front bumper area, and trunk undercarriage. Luckily, with the original build, I used high-grade rubberized undercoating and it's still available. Not shown; Below the fuel tank and in the hard-to get to areas, I went a little-tougher and added more POR15, Wurth seam-sealer and truck bed-liner as some of this is exposed to moisture coming in from the suspension access plate.

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No entry needed, just a few progress photos showing the rear-fitment of the 'shorty valence'. I've said it several times on this thread, but I'll say it again.... Be very wary buying the fiberglass reproductions; These pieces need significant work to fit.

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Enrique - the same held true for all the glass we used on 911 project cars. No matter who we purchased from and how much it cost, the actual fit was more of a suggestion than a rule. When a customer asked why it cost 2 grand to fit the IROC bumper, I would show them pics of how the body guy had to section it into pieces and piece it back together to make it fit the lines of the car.
Glass is really meant for the track. Light and easily replaceable. Making it fit a road car is a lot of time and effort.

@mepstein - Hey Mark! Completely agree.

Luckily, we have a FRP modeler on-staff and this is easily enough resolved for me. If we didn't, this would get VERY expensive, VERY fast. For those that are unfamiliar with FRP products, this is the long and the short of it according to our modeler... In order to produce 'volume' or runs of a product, often times the producer will add more catalyst/hardener to the material to speed up the process. Further, the producer will usually 'pull' the piece from the mold before letting it 'set' in the mold a sufficient amount of time. Both of these techniques lead to a bad product that has the tendency to warp, shrink, etc.

In my case, the Driver-side fit very well and needed only minimal work. The passenger side on the other hand had to come out several inches. In my experience, typical shop rate is approx. $90/hr, and the total time for this entire procedure was approximately 8hrs, and it's not even in final-prep /paint-work yet.... thats a potential $720 for body-work on 1 piece, scary!

Your numbers are cheap. When you take it into a Porsche shop to get it worked, your looking at $125-250/hour.

@mepstein - Uff, that makes me nauseous!

As mentioned in my previous entry, fitment of the rear-valence complete. Last weekend was dedicated to to modifying it to accommodate dual exhaust, and I'm very happy with the result. Once again our modeler has knocked it out of the park, duplicating the cutout to both-sides and adding the proper 'lip' around the cutout. As opposed to the previous setup, where the exhaust was exiting out of the drivers side at an angle, the dual setup will have a more subtle 'straight out' exit.

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Front trunk reassembly now that all is repainted after the equipment add-ons and changes...

"We put it together, just to take it apart again..."


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As travel restrictions are slowly being lifted, I've found myself 'on the road' more, flying a bunch so progress has been a bit slow due to getting caught up with customers orders. Before leaving, I did have a chance to install my Camp914 (Camp914 Website hood shocks. Overall, I'm very happy with how they turned out, however I think there are a few items that I didn't understand before that other members may care to know:

- Newest version requires you to drill into the rear trunk-lid, whereas previously, I though it was only required to drill into the hood-hinge. I can see how this would be unappealling to some. Luckily, with the help of McMaster-Carr, I'm able to modify my hood-hinges to not drill into my hood.
- It is required to 'grind away' a portion of the lip that separates the rear trunk from the engine bay. I don't believe this to be advertised, and it's not in the instructions.
- The instructions could be better. They get a little wordy, and pictures or reference diagrams would help especially when giving directions on drill locations.
- Use an excessive amount of tape to prevent a drill slipping and causing a knick. Very easy to do.
- Front kit is very easy, and basically a 'bolt-on' setup. One end connects to the original mount of the spring, the other fits between the hood hinge and hood hinge bolt.
- Note to others: When applying hood hinges, use a small(er) ratchet. Very easy to schear the shoulder bolt inside the hinge mount. See photos.


Overall, I do like the kit, only wish there would be more information about it. I wish I would have purchased and assembled it BEFORE painting my car, to avoid any potential damage to the paint and make cutting away a bit of the trunk easier. Other than that, all good!

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Non-914 update, but I thought it would be cool to 'share' with the world; My newest vehicle and designated 'Tow Vehicle' and its maiden voyage.

Purchased this Black 2020 GMC Sierra-Elevation. All Black, Black rims, modest list, Duramax engine, and optional leather and sunroof. It's been a couple of weeks now, and I'm very happy with it (and the 30MPG) I'm getting. Photos are from purchase day, you can see my wife in the background, and a few from a recent trip we took up the coast to see my Father race at Sonoma. Along the way, we were lucky enough to stop at Pismo Beach, Morro Bay, Big Sur, San Jose, Sonoma and Wine Country.

Also, used this opportunity to visit @PCA7GGR (Sergio) and other 'Teeners' to pick-up one a very nice GT-style decklid. If you have the opportunity to purchase, I highly recommend. Very nice pieces, with stock fasteners holding the removable mesh, and rivets holding the new piece. Very excited to get this on, and keep my stock-looking lid if I want to mix-and-match.

Thats all I have for now, stay safe everyone!

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It was great to finally meet you.

@PCA7GGR great to meet you too, and thanks for the limoncello

Hey world!

Long-time-no-post, but I'm still on it! With the (temporary) ease of travel restrictions we saw in the Fall, I've been traveling a lot, but have still found time to carve-out a few weekends here and there as well as visit a few new-places. More on that later. Work continues on the car, and I've been focused on the new equipment added to the front trunk, and sorting out the system of powering the new parts, relays and systems.

First up, I mentioned that I purchased an aftermarket relay-kit / project box. I've since wired this with 2x configurations....

- The three top relays are 'always' on. I've left 2 'open' for now, for whatever I want to install in the future (air horn, things like that) and the first is for the oil-cooler fans, with the thermo-switch (located on the passenger side) located on the GND leg.
- The bottom two relays come on with ignition, specifically for items like the fuel-pump. I've left 1 extra 'open' for now, and am not sure what I'll use it for, but nice to know it's there.

Once I bench-tested everything, I set the box into the trunk and soldered all connections. After I test, this will get wrapped to look like the stock harness.

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Taking the Holiday season to try to make headway on the project. With the help of various sites and members here, this is where I'm at so far.

I've begun decoding the setup the previous owner had. While I originally thought I could simply copy the setup from @racerx9146 - this was not the case as the original relay board has already been bypassed. No matter, his diagram is still an incredible help when it comes to the pin callouts on the DME relay. If anyone can help identify wires, especially when it comes to the OEM 14-pin connector, that would be very appreciated.

I'm hoping to be able to figure this out myself over the course of time-off during the next week, or at the least, make a big-enough dent to be able to have a shop take it over and get it running.

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Happy to say I'm 'wrapping up' the front trunk harness. Decided to move away from the 'stock look' of wrapped tape, and go with something more modern. This is also safer for the 2x new +12v lines I added below the tank for items in the front trunk.

Unfortunately, I had to crack-open the relay box I installed previously. I decided to add a horn relay for a more euro-sounding horn now located in the driver-side wheel well and a new relay for the foglight. So, now that its complete, the front relay box now powers the fuel-pump, oil-cooler fans (with a dash-mounted switch for manual over-ride) air-horn, fog-lights, and one 'open' relay for something in the future.

I need to read more into the whole 'headlight relay' thing as it relates to the stock 914/6 column, but I think that I can run that near the stock fuse-board to be both easier and cleaner. Speaking of the 914/6 column and controls, this is my current focus after adding the new equipment and wrapping the front portion of the harness with safety-sheathing. I've started on a conversion table for converting the 75' harness to the 914/6 connector, and will post once complete.

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Hi Enrique, @RiqueMar - Car is looking very nice. You have to be getting close to being able to drive that, right?

@Cairo94507 - So close! Using my 2 weeks of vacation this year to work on the car. Front trunk wrapped up, same with the rear, and I'm pretty sure I have the DME relay setup working properly.



Right now, main focus is figuring out the conversion wiring I mentioned in my last post. I've snipped the original black 75' connector, and have temporarily installed male/female connectors to troubleshoot. If anyone can point me in the right direction of the column/wiper controls, I would be very grateful.

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I ask again, "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time"

Moving forward on the relay-box up front, and working with the dash recently, developed a few electrical gremlins. Nothing too big, but it certainly has made the 914-6 column and wiring take a bit longer than expected. Right now, each of the turn signal and parking lights on the 75' harness and grounding-out, and I don't think that problem was there before, more on that as it develops.

I'm happy to say I took this opportunity to test out both my front-mounted fog-light relay (I retained the original relay on the fuse-board as well) and also installed the LEDs from 914rubber.com. VERY BRIGHT, plug and play, love it. (more on that and fog lights in the following posts....

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A bit about headlights concerning 914-6 column controls
NOTE: My car is a 1970 914-4, with a 1975 modified wiring harness using various 914-6 / 964 parts

For those readers following this thread using an actual 914-6 on a 914-4 harness, see page 40 of this build-thread. Essentially, one will need to eliminate the stock 914/4 headlight relay (attached in this post - first photo circled in neon green), which can become troublesome as then the 914-6 switch (possibly the same for 911 conversions) takes the entire load of the hi-lo beams and can lead to the contacts burning out. This would result in the need to install a different relay(s) OR simply converting to LEDs. My take? Ditch the stock relay, pay the $120 to 914rubber, and call it a night.

Furthermore, make sure that the contacts on the 914-6 turn signal / light switch are bent and not protruding too much (see the second photo, also highlighted in green). The bracket / cradle that allows this switch to attach to the steering column only allows a bit of clearance. In my case, my high-beam was grounding out against the column, and I nearly burnt-out my switch, 12-pin connector, and some of my wiring harness. Learn from my mistake!

Specifically for the headlights, the wire-conversion is as follows...
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Another couple of days, and more progress!

I'm happy to say, I now have all the stock components (Turn signals, High/Lo-beams, Hazards, Blower, Ignition, etc.) working with the stock controls and 914-6 controls, and I've started soldering the original harness and new components together.

Progress photos below, diagrams to come.

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The relay box up front is now 100% active. Turning on the ignition powers the fuel-pump relay, need to decide if its through the DME or a new relay (more on that later) as well as power to the oil-cooler fans, controlled by the thermo-switch. Additionally, I added a dash-mounted switch in case the thermo-switch fails, diagram and a few reference photos below.


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Also, while digging into the dash to finish up the ignition wiring and install switches, I decided to 'isolate' the Fog-light switch and set it up so that it only functions with the key on while staying independent of the hi/lo beams.

I've browsed the site and there are no shortage of instructions on how to do this. I'm happy to say while it's pretty simple, the various threads make it a bit confusing. Below, I listed out what I did that worked excellent for making the foglight function independently ONLY when the key is in the ON position, for fear of draining the battery.

NOTE:
Future modification - Since the 914 has 'bucket' lights, this doesn't make sense to use these for 'flash-to-pass' during the daytime, I'm thinking that I'll wire the fog-lights to be my 'flash-to-pass', but thats a weekend project sometime in the future.

1 - Disconnect the battery

2 - Locate the Fog-light relay on the fuse board and notice the white wire with a blue-stripe (first-photo of this post) in my case, this led to pin 1 on the fuses.

3 - Cut / Connect / Solder the blue and white wire to GND.

4 - Disconnect the Black/Blue wire from the foglight switch (mine was located on the 'K' terminal.) Wrap / isolate the Blue / Black wire, it will no longer be in use.

5 - Run a lead (mine is Blue in the photos) from the 'K' terminal on the foglight switch to something that is only ON when the key is in the ON position. (I used pin 9)

6 - Reconnect the battery and test all your connections, its easy to unplug things on the fuse board when doing this (happened to me with my passenger side lights).

7 - Use this opportunity to check the connections / clean your fuse board, clean and tape your harness. (Note Not necessary to open the harness for this, I just had mine accessible).

8 - Test again before wrap up.


Note: Browsing through the posts I found the attached diagram and it made everything clear to me, save for the pins on the fog-lights. In the diagram, it lists using pin 15 on the foglight switch, whereas mine was wired for 'K'.[size=2]


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The DME relay controls both the ECU/Injectors/Ignition igniters/etc... and the Fuel Pump/O2 sensor heater. The fuel pump portion of the DME relay is turned on by a signal from the ECU. If you wire it so the fuel pump is on all the time, it will not work right.

Inserted below is an Excel spreadsheet I made to put my 964 motor in. It may help you, but it does have some specific notes in it about my car.

I am also attaching the 964 engine wiring diagram, which contains the DME relay and the ECU.

I hope it helps. Let me know if you need any more info.

Clay
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ECU Pin Wire Color Gauge 964 ECU Function Target Device and Pin number
1 White 14 Ignition Modules Signal Igniton Control Mudules 1 and 2 Pin 5
2 Brown 14 Ignition Modules Ground Igniton Control Mudules 1 and 2 Pin 3
3 Black/White 18 Fuel Pump Relay Fuel Pump Relay pin 85
4 Black/Red 18 Idle Speed Control Idle Speed Positioner pin 2
5 N/C Tank Venting Valve Tank Venting Valve pin 2
6 Red/Blue 18 Tachometer Output 914/6 Relay board Engine plug pin 2
7 Blue/Green 18 Air Flow Meter Signal Air Flow Meter Pin 2
8 White/Shield 18 Hall Sensor Signal Hall Sensor Pin 2
9 Red/Black 18 N/C
10 Brown 18 Oxygen Sensor Shield Ground Ground on Body at battery cable.
11 Green/Shield 18 Knock Sensor Number 1 Knock Sensor Number 1 Pin 2
12 Blue/Gray 18 Air Flow Meter Power Air Flow Meter Pin 3 / Pressure Sensor Pin 3
13 Blue/White 18 Diagnostic Plug Lead L OBD2 Connector Pin 15
14 Brown/Red 14 Ground Ground on Body at battery cable.
15 N/C Injector Number 3 Fuel Injector Number 3 Pin 1
16 Gray 18 Injector Number 6 Fuel Injector Number 6 Pin 1
17 Gray/Black 18 Injector Number 1 Fuel Injector Number 1 Pin 1
18 Red 16 Always on Positive ECU Power Battery via Auxuiluary Fuse Box in Engine Compartment.
19 White 16 Ground Ground on Body at battery cable.
20 N/C N/C
21 Black/ 18 Diagnostic Plug Knock Indicator OBD2 Connector Pin 11
22 Black/White 18 Check Engine Light added to bottom of Tachometer / OBD2 Plug Pin 9
23 Blue/Red 18 Resonance Plate Shift Valve Resonance Flap Pin 2
24 Brown/Yellow 16 Ground Ground on Body at battery cable.
25 Yellow/Red 18 N/C
26 Green/Red 18 Air Flow Meter Ground Air Flow Meter Pin 4
27 Black 16 N/C
28 Green/Shield 16 Oxygen Sensor Signal Oxygen Sensor Pin 1
29 Green/Shield 16 Knock Sensor Number 2 Knock Sensor Number 2 Pin 2
30 Brown 18 Shield for Knock Sensors, Hall Sensor and Knock Sensor Ground. Ground on Body at battery cable.
31 Yellow/Gray 18 Positive to Hall Sensor Hall Sensor Pin 3
32 Red/Green 18 Comsumption Gauge
33 Green/Blue 18 Injector Number 5 Fuel Injector Number 5 Pin 1
34 Gray/Red 18 Injector Number 4 Fuel Injector Number 4 Pin 1
35 Green/Blue 18 Injector Number 2 Fuel Injector Number 2 Pin 1
36 Red/Black 18 N/C
37 Red/Yellow 16 Switched Power from ECU Relay ECU Relay Pin 87
38 N/C N/C
39 N/C N/C
40 White/Black 18 AC Compressor AC Compressor Coil Power
41 Blue/Green 18 AC Cutoff sensors High Pressure/Low pressure cutoff valves for AC.
42 N/C N/C
43 N/C N/C
44 N/C Intake Air Temperature Sensor
45 Yellow 18 Engine Temperature Sensor Cylinder Head Temprature Sensor Pin 3
46 N/C Altitude Potentiometer Pressure Sensor Pin 1
47 Yellow/Red 18 Speed Reference Sensor Flywheel Sensor Pin 1
48 Brown 18 Speed Reference Shield Flywheel Sensor Pin 2
49 White/Shield 18 N/C
50 N/C Heat/AC Regulator
51 N/C N/C
52 N/C Throttle Valve Idle Signal Throttle Valve Switch Pin 1
53 White/Grey 18 Throttle Valve Full Load Signal Throttle Valve Switch Pin 3
54 White 18 Coding Plug Coding Plug in Passenger Compartment
55 Orange/White 18 Diagnostic Plug K OBD2 Connector Pins 3 and 7

@ClayPerrine - Wow, completely missed this message, very helpful. For some reason, the board format throws the organization off, so I imported into a .doc and took a screenshot.

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Update: This is where I'm at currently. Much of the weekend was spent documenting the current state of the wiring, as it worked before (first screenshot). From my limited understanding, this works, though it's not ideal for several reasons....

- The ignition powers the DME, ECU and Fuel pump, whereas the Fuel-pump need to run off the DME.
- The ECU is getting power from a standard relay, not allowing it to save 'memory'.
- The Diagnostic port isn't fully functional; Not reading 'Check Engine', Engine Speed, etc.
- Gauges weren't necessarily connected.

I believe I've pretty much mapped everything, so now, it comes to the point where I have to create a new diagram and run off of that. Needing a break from the Computer work and sitting in the compartment, I also took this chance to clean up my connections at the fuse board, install new fuses, and clean all the contacts. I was getting a lot of false readings and gremlins, this cleared all of those.

NOTE: The below screenshot of the wiring diagram is WRONG.

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Attached below, these are the changes I think I need to make....

Moving along, and I'm happy to show-off first prototypes of the oil-cooler fan mount. Will be bending and testing a few different designs this weekend.

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Another weekend, and I'm marching ahead!

First order of business was to wrap up the wiring for the three primary gauges dash; Speedometer, Tachometer, Oil Temp / Oil Pressure. Center console to follow, though thats significantly easier (Fuel Level, Oil Level, Clock with Status lights).

This was easy enough, given the 964 diagram. Photos and references to come. In addition to connecting up a few items that didn't really exist before, I left 3x 'extra wires' that run back to the ECU for future use. All connections work, and I only have 4 wires that I have to figure out (Speedo signal, Oil Pressure Sender, Tach +12v and Tach signal) and I was even able to run 2x new lines to differentiate between Right and Left Turn-signals. I'm not 100% familiar with the different icons from the 964, so I'm thinking to make my 'idiot light' the big 'EXCLAMATION MARK' signal found on the Oil combo gauge. Done here for now, once everything is tested, I'll probably wrap in the same manner to match the rest of the harness.

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Final part of the weekend was spent fitting the new Oil cooler bracket. Bent and modified the bracket after being cut, added a few screws and rubber isolators and it fits excellent!

For those members with similar projects, needed this part, feel free to contact me. I now have a design for this bracket that can incorporate up to 4-fans

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Looking good

@euro911 - Gracias Señor Mark! Hey, out of curiosity, what ever happened to that 2ltr? If I remember correctly, it's been at or almost 10 years!

@RiqueMar - Looking nice. I like the gauges. You are getting so close now. Keep up the great progress.

Yeah, it was right around that time frame. I sold it when we installed the 2056 that Richard (Type_4_Unleashed) assembled for me while I was recuperating from gastro-tract surgery


Here's a pic of when we installed it though ...

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... and later, the 2056 motor when I had the shop

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Long time - no post, but I'm still on the project and plan on building back-up the momentum this week. It's been a hell of a a couple of months; Lots of travel and work, some to great locations, however I'm excited to get rolling.

In addition to photos of the different travel locations, also sharing a few from my side projects; The GT Cooler bracket (Link here >GT Cooler Bracket) and just as well, I've also begun pulling molds and parts for a front and rear GT valence (see my other thread here > GT Front / Rear Valance)

Enjoy, hope to update soon!

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Well, the car is back at my house. Though I don't have the same resources as the shop / ranch, having it at home will hopefully help me work easier. I find that, when it's here, it's easy to carve our 1-2 hours a day.

First order of business was getting it in. After, I was finally able to wrap-up the oil system with lines I had made at Parker. Though they were a bit on the expensive side ($128) for the set, it was much easier than making and fitting the braided lines, as these last pieces are only 7', and it's extremely difficult when they are that short with a fitting on each end. To make it all match, thinking to do a small connector for the other-side, and get rid of the ugly Blue and Red fittings, but thats not super important.

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Wondering if anyone can help me with, or point me in the right direction, on what I hope is one of my last wiring questions. Re-engaging on my project and last step of wiring, save for the ECU, is the /6 wiper control. I've confirmed the the connections on the motor are correct (photo of a similar thread attached for anyone troubleshooting this), and just don't know where to start with the connection between the dash-harness and the column lever.

On the wiper switch side (Stock 914/6 Column switch), I have the following wires...
- Solid Red
- Black with Yellow
- Black with Purple
- Light-Blue
- Black

On the other side, my 76' harness has the following wires...
- Green with White
- Black with Red
- Black with Blue
- Blue
- Brown and White

Any and all help is appreciated, thanks all in advance!


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Re-engaging on this subject, does anyone know the the wiper function for each of the colored wires? As I'm trying to make the 914-6 controls work with my 914-4 harness, I don't know which color wire corresponds to the different wiper functions. I would assume theres various speeds, and a lead to activate the Washer / Sprayer.

On the Stock 914/6 Column switch, I have the following wires...
- Solid Red
- Black with Yellow
- Black with Purple
- Light-Blue
- Black

On the other side, my 76' harness has the following wires...
- Green with White
- Black with Red
- Black with Blue
- Blue
- Brown and White

Digging into this further, I've narrowed down the following. It's difficult to complete, because I'm not all to familiar with this part of the car, and whether or not the motor had different speeds. Seems like the below is correct and I'm think I'm getting different speeds so I'm going to move on, but any input is welcome...

Switch side > Chassis Harness

Solid Red > Red and Black
Black > (Washer Pump)
Black / Purple > Black / Blue
Green / White > Black / Yellow

I've ordered a bunch of new parts, and they are slowly trickling in - more on that later. Finding something to do over the weekend, I decided to first complete orders for my 6-conversion GT Cooler, thread here. Very happy with how these turned out and a special 'thank you' to all the members who purchased the first-product, more to come!

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After completing the orders for the cooler, dug into my parts stash. Idea is to start 'chipping' away on the weekend and finishing small jobs, while leaving the larger items (such as finishing the ECU wiring and touching-up the paint) for the weekend when there are larger blocks of time and concentration.

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First up, I thought I would attach the parts-stash I have from 914Rubber. Though I originally installed the headlights, on my last order I received a set of early headlight brushes. While I thought I could install the brushes and rubber flap while just removing the arm.... I was fooling myself. For anyone trying to also do this, make it easy on yourself, Man... Just take-out the headlight and arm. It will take you 10-15 min, and will be alot easier.

NOTE: Whenever working on, adjusting the headlights - DISCONNECT THE BATTERY / POWER. Those headlight motors will easily bite your hand, no joke!

Remove the headlight 'eye-brows' and covers, then the 3-bolts on the inside of the trunk (first photo), the 2-bolts on the inside of the fender, and finally the arm thats connected to the motor. Voilá! You can now work much easier. Though my car is a restoration, this is also a great opportunity to check your headlight-buckets. It's not at all uncommon that the drain at the bottom gets clogged with dirt and leaves.

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Once everything is open to the world, the installation of the brushes is pretty-straight forward. Make sure to use the rubber piece included and line up the slit in the rubber with the center of the brush. When you're done, it while lay like a flap over the brush and minimize water splashing into the front-trunk area. Will it fail eventually? Yes - it's designed to, and cheap to replace.

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With that through, follow the same procedure in reverse to assemble the headlight system. When you get to the end, and you feel that your headlights aren't even, you can check by turning the black nobs on-top of the headlight motors. If that small adjustment doesn't work, you can also disconnect the 'arm' that connects the motor to the headlight assembly, make sure it's completely 'straight' when the headlight should be in the 'up' position. First picture shows the wrong position, second shows the correct.

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Final Note: If you're doing this job, it's also a great time to replace or check the following...
- LED Headlights
- Headlight Enclosures / Lenses
- Turn-signal Grommet / boot
- Headlight Relays
- Your ground points - Located on the back of each headlight.

I can offer no help with your wiring issue, but think you're doing a hell of a job on this car. Really great work. Love that you're going to the 10th degree on everything.

Also, as a fellow sim racer, it's fun to work on real cars now and then. But way more greasy! I did a thread in the Sandbox about my rig. Check it out: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=351983

@CptTripps - Gracias, trying my best to keep the quality up, sometimes after looking at my work it's hit or miss. Good looking rig, don't be afraid to ask should you have any questions

This last couple of days, it's been all about SOUND

Though I do require having a radio in the car, I'll admit I'm not much of an audiophile. While not really concerned with bass or loudness, I do enjoy clarity and want to have something for long-trips that sounds good, and has all the modern amenities such as hands-free capability and Bluetooth. Doing the research, settled on this Pioneer AMP I had originally bought for another project, I understand it is a very good solution. Coupled with that, I decided to go with 'Pioneer everything', and ordered the speakers and receive as well.

In the cab, I'm just mounting 2x speakers in the stock-location, albeit with the 914Rubber speaker pods. As great as these (speaker pods) are, I do with they were less pliable and a bit more sturdy, I feel like there is a better-solution than the formed plastic that they come in, but more on that later. Currently, have run my own cabling lead for Amp controller, Speaker Wire to speakers, and speaker wire from the Receiver to AMP. As usual, to make this all the more cleaner and easier to understand in the future, this is it's own harness with safety-sheathing running in parallel to the the equipment harnesses to there front trunk and through the firewall.

Just got an alert that the Speakers and receiver are delivered to the house, so hopefully I can update more this weekend!

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Hope this helps with your wiring work. The drawings are draft as they are incomplete, need to be double checked, and I have yet performed the wiring work to verify operation.

For my 914-6 ignition switch conversion, I am using the stock 1974 dash with Restoration Design's PP360 "Dash section for Ignition."

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Since I am using the 1974 dash, I lost a dash switch opening and decided to eliminate the fog light switch and run driving lights like a 914-6 with the 914-6 flash operation as well. In order to protect the column switch, I looking to add power relays to provide full power to the lights, like @JWest JWest Engineering "911 Headlight Relay Kit." I am also adding a DLR module to use the driving lights as daylight running lights.

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@saladin - I think this is the ‘silver bullet’ I need. While I don’t have a 911 wiper switch on the steering column (mine is stock 914-6) believe i can trace these functions to match the functionality of the motor...

Not sure if this is the total solution, but thanks for your input!

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