I was very hesitant about putting on the Large Main Seal, as I understood it is a pain in the ass. I'm happy to say that after a brief search on here, and finding this thread: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=337114 and this video by 914rubber https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ui-GSfUS7ak its very easy. Seriously, the whole process only took me about 1hr 30 min, including setup, install, and probably a few distractions along the way.

Before I go over the process, a few items...

- The first assumption people make regarding this seal install is that it slides in from the top. I don't know why I thought this at first, it's gotta be close to impossible especially with a new / reproduction seal. Instead of sliding the seal in from the top, you'll place it in with one side (interior), then work in the outer (exterior facing) side.
- Use standard hand soap as a lubricant, as directed in the video. Its both slippery enough, and not so much that you lose control of the part that you're trying to handle.
- For the tool to pry and work in the seal, I used a standard size flat-head screwdriver. For those of us, like me, that have blacked out the chrome on the trim, I didn't want to lose control and knock the trim.
- The hardest part is the beginning, placing the seal to insert the screw and the 'curve' at the top of the windshield structure.

I first placed the seal as it's directed in the video. I did find that, as Matt directed, you will have to clip or trim the bracket that attaches to the windshield. Big shears did it for me, and it was almost 'level' with the body piece.

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On this next step, I found it easier to divert a bit from the video instructions; Once you're able to correctly place the piece and the set-screw, I left the set screw off for the time being, and didn't place it until both sides were done. Starting with the Drivers side, I lined up the seal and placed the side that is closest to the interior of the car in the 'slot'. From there, I used the flathead screwdriver and 'worked in' the outer side. Each time I pushed in with the tool, about 1/2 an inch would slowly work itself into the channel. As I said before, the top is the hardest. Once you get a rhythm going, its pretty easy. You do not have to necessarily alternate between front and back, as the back slides in about 4-6 inches at a time.

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With the Drivers side complete (it should be a bit long, recommend letting it rest before trimming), I repeated the process on the passenger side. Same thing, place the rubber, omit the set screw for now, and start working it in. Same on this side, it will be a bit long, wait to trim it. With the seal in and secure on both sides, I used my rubber mallet to very lightly tap in the piece that runs along the length of the windshield connecting the two sides. This pieces is very easy to get on, and at some points, I didn't use the hammer and just tapped it in with the palm of my hand. Its at this point, I put in the set screws on either side.

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With all that complete, the final trick is to install the 'Lower Targa Mainseal', which is a joke compared to the process of the Main seal. Simply place it int he correct orientation and begin pushing it in. Once it's all the way in, spanning the length of the windshield, you can push or pull it to center it as you like. NOTE: Looking through the site, reference photos and diagrams, it was confusing to me which side was top, bottom, in, and out, so I included a photo. After thats in, start putting in your interior!

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Nope the Partrick thing is just a jumper harness and creates a much mess as it fixes. I got the 964 wiring diagram and just started labelling wires and removing stuff I did not need. It somewhat depends where you are going to mount the ECU. Based on what you have done with the rest of the car this will be cake for you.

regards Daron

Great build, you are making great progress.

I like all the details you post, really tells the story.

You are not kidding on all the little nick knacks and pieces you have to buy, they really add up, along with paints, hardware, clamps, etc.

John

Thank you! I'm not sure what's worse, the 'nickel and dime'-ing aspect of missing parts, or getting into a rhythm, and then having to stop because you need another metric bolt, screw or nut.

As of yesterday, we are turning stuff on!

Using the /6 ignition switch, now able to 'crank' and activate the starter as well as activate the Headlight motors, Hazards and running lights. Compared to the initial setup and testing we did with the original harness, everything is going very smoothly. Fuses in, battery in, and starting to turn stuff on. Listed below, very helpful resource from @JeffBowlsby and his site listed below for the front turn signal lights.

Later today, I'm going to be taking the column off the black car to test the wipers, turn signals and high beams. Once that is tested and everything is working, we will then tie-in the 914/6 ignition switch and steering column. After that, on to the matter of setting up the gauges. This will be a bit more complicated, as the previous owner didn't use a specific wiring color / pattern, and its a mess.

Any 3.6 guys reading, your help is appreciated in regards to gauge wiring and coloring!

Not there yet, but this is certainly a big step!

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This post is all about salvaging and reconditioning parts....

More equipment going on! Friday, I was able to head over to my Fathers garage and grab a few donor pieces off of the car the 3.6 was originally in; Interior pieces, heater control and cables, etc. Additionally, with a small trip up north to Riverside I was able to purchase a few new shiny and missing bits, thanks to @bdstone914 . At this point all I need is the Targa roll-bar pad for the interior, as the one of the donor car had a crack in it.

After cleaning each of the parts (I was happy to find all were in really good condition) I decided to start with the gas tank, expansion tank, and charcoal canister. As the expansion tank got a new coat of paint, I set off on the charcoal canister. For some reason, maybe the awkward shape of the Gas tank, it was pretty difficult to fit the charcoal canister with the stock bracket. I don't know why it gave me such difficulty, and I didn't necessarily find a 'trick' to getting it on there. I suppose its one of those things thats just easy with 3 hands.

Frustrated after the charcoal canister, 'That took way too long' I took a break and moved on to easier items, new door sensors and rubber seals from 914rubber, and beginning to put on the engine grill.

Originally, I thought I would paint the supports that are below the engine grille mesh, but test fitting the pieces, I actually like the look of the body-color below the satin black pieces. I'll leave it body-color for now, I can always paint it later.

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Going to be ready to drive in 2 weeks for the Corona run?
Seriously though, awesome progress!

@eric9144 not a chance, but I'll still be there in something.

Question for guys with later cars / harnesses; Is there any reason I need to keep the interlock system located before the passenger seat? I know I can engage the starter by linking the Yellow and Yellow and Red wires, but I'm concerned that some items won't activate, as I see some leads are the same colors. Is it possible for me to solder leads together and completely remove the equipment?

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Great progress. Can't wait to see it running.

Gracias @Cairo94507 hope to be driving by you soon!

With much help from the site by @JeffBowlsby and the reference photos I took before removing the harness from the donor car, I was able to reconnect and refurbish everything the corresponds and connects to the seat belt interlock / interrupt. The setup was different from the schematic drawn on the site, so I had to rely heavily on the photos taken before removal, with my theory being 'It worked before'. The only wire I couldn't find is a small Yellow w/ White-stripe that goes in the bottom left corner of the system, however as I'm wagering that these are for the seat belt sensors themselves, it should be easy to 'T-off' the existing yellow with white if I need to.

Parallel to this, I'm also wrapping up the wiring in this area for the ECU and am beginning to shorten and lengthen wires to make it clean. I'm not exactly sure where I will put this module, but I've extended the ground to reach either a ground-point I created for the ECU (behind the passenger seat) or the center console.... I'm leaning more toward the center console. Once complete, I'll wrap this with the 'factory look' tape.

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Second post today.I'm trying to keep each entry separate for anyone reading along, working on a similar project... and also to keep my focus.

With a lot of help from my Father today, dash controls (aside from the 914/6 column and harness) are complete. Trying ton compare 'apples to apples', currently using a late-model 914-4 steering column control. Headlights, Headlight motors, Foglights, Horn, Wipers, and Air-blower are complete and working. For those following along, and also converting to a 914/6 column, see input on page 40 of this blog by @ClayPerrine regarding headlight relays / LEDs. Trying to make things as uncomplicated as possible, I will most likely go with LEDs. In short, converting to the stock-6 column, the headlight switch takes the full load and burns out, you have two options; Run LEDs or incorporate relays.

PS, If I'm 'tagging' or 'linking' to anyone and mentioning user-names here, it's because I found your input valuable for myself and others. I find it easier and a better resource, as sometimes there can be SO much information when one does a search. Sorry if it gets annoying, but wear it as a badge of honor.

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I’ve put it off long enough..... Beginning to route the junction point that includes the ECU, diagnostic port and relays. Though it took a bit of decoding, once the wires were run up the center-tunnel, and connected to where they were before in the old car, it started to make sense. This is no where near the finished product, just using butt connectors and make-female connectors to get the shape for now.



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Taking a break from the back, I'm starting from the front. It was getting too complicated without knowing which wires correspond to each connection. Starting with the gauges, I've once again 'harvested' wires from the '70 harness, and tidying up and eliminating connections; Airbag status light, Trunk ajar warning light, etc.

Pretty easy right now, Fuel gauge, Oil Level and Clock with status lights crossed off, and working my way through. Hopefully, tomorrow or this weekend, I'll be able to lengthen the wires with the correct color and make this look more clean. I'll update for anyone with a similar project, spreadsheet below.

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Station-break....

Unfortunately, due to the current health crisis, we had a Death in the family. Preparing for the funeral tomorrow, I have the bittersweet task of going through old-photos and assembling a sort of memorial slideshow. The silver-lining in the task is that I get to recall a lot of nice memories with my Grandfather. Amongst others, I stumbled onto this photo on my Fathers social media, probably my first ride in a 914.

.... Where it all began!

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Hi all, hope everyone is well! I was able to use the weekend, and 'distract' myself with the pending items on the car.

First up, I want to make sure the status lights on the gauges and such are working correctly; Check engine light, Light indicator, Low Fuel, etc. I have a few 'holes' in my wiring spreadsheet, however everything is progressing nicely there, and I think it might be time to get a professionals eyes on it soon. In the interim, and to 'ease' the mechanics bill, I lengthened and shortened wires where needed and cleaned everything up.

There were ALOT of spliced wires, so I made a dedicated ground lead and 'daisy' chain as well as extended the wires for the gauges that will be in the center console with the correct color (Fuel gauge, Running lights, 12v ignition on, etc.) Previously, it was very confusing as some wires would turn from white... to green... to brown. All clean and tidy now, so much so that I could test-fit my top dashpad

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Further into the weekend (and further procrastinating about the ECU harness), I decided to make a storage run and collect my bumpers and some trim pieces. Happy to say, all are and were in very good condition, aside from years of dust, including the bumper-tops.

Being a bit of a 'perfectionist', I decided to sand down both the front and rear bumper and add a bit of filler to a few 'knicks' in the surface. The are set to be satin black, like the rest of the trim. As those items cured or setup, I spent a few hours 'roughing up' my foglight grilles that will also being going satin.


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As of yesterday, this is back at my parents 'Ranch' to get a few cosmetic touch-ups as well as fitted for the rockers, GT cutout on the front bumper (changed my mind on that one... looks funky without it) and valences (anyone got a /6 rear?). As we transported, and got it on the 2-post lift, I was happy to see it in the sun for the first time in a while. Also, special appearance by my Moms Dog, Brando.

Man! Do I love those tires and wheels, no-chrome, and that Signal Orange!



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Starting to look like a drive-able 914 again!

Gracias @Root_Werks !

Car is now airborne again, and final body and paint work starts today! I anticipate 2-4 weeks of miscellaneous body-work items. First order is mounting the side-skirts and the front valence as well as the front bumper to line up everything for the GT cutout. A little more on that in a second - so hang on. After the side-skirts and front pieces are complete, plan to move to the back and, hopefully, find a /6 valence or replica. If I can't, I suppose I'll modify the stock /4 valence and, omitting the 'cutouts' just notch both sides for a dual exhaust.

Now, a bit of homework on the GT cutout bumper. There is a great thread on this site started sometime in 2018 with the main contributors being @mb911 @ValcoOscar

Link here: SAVED - GT Cutout thread

Additionally, I can't remember if I found the following passage from that same thread, or a different, but this is very helpful to start...

“... I did 1 sample cut out today. Went extremly smooth. Measured center of bumper then 10 inches each direction. Then measured up 1-7\8" from the bottom and made my cuts. With the reinforcement welded in I will be at approximatly 1-3/4"× 19-7/8" which then makes it blend into the bottom valance. There is also decent space between the bumper and valance to give an optical illusion thus the reason I sized it that way...”

For my project, I'm toying with the idea of doing something a bit different. Rather than matching the 'outward' lines determined by the valence. This way, the valence opening points outward and up, and the bumper cutout points outward and down, in a sort of oblong-hexagon shape...... We'll see.

As the bodywork is getting completed, I'm trying to take as much advantage of the 2-post lift while I can, wrapping up the oil-line mounting, side-skirts, clutch/accelerator/ebrake/heater cables, heater hoses, and any remaining electronics. In order to tackle each of these, I gotta finish what's not completed... Steering column and ignition wiring, ECU, Fuel pump and Oil Cooler.

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First the 914/6 steering column. As for the mounting, while it is pretty straight forward there's a 'pro-tip' here that I would imagine is applicable to most any year. First, insert the steering column half shaft (the part with the 'bar' and 2 U-joints on either end) but don't connect it to the steering rack (protruding out of the front fire-wall). Once placed, pull it out of the front of the dash, and line up the splines and 'slot' so that you can put in the retaining bolt (helps to have a mallet and a bit of grease) on the u-joint closest to the Driver. Slide it in, put in the bolt, and secure it now, it's a pain-in-the-ass to do it once installed. With the top portion done and just kinda hanging there, line up and repeat the same process on the lower u-joint which should be significantly easier, and secure. Once all that is complete, and checked, secure your steering to the support using 4x 8mm bolts (stock was 8mm Allen head, but I used hex with pressure washer, shouldn't matter).

With the 914/6 steering column mounted, I'm moving to wrap up the wiring in that section. As I mentioned in a separate post (link below), I was having a bit of trouble discerning which-color corresponds to which-equipment / function (having a bit of trouble getting my hands on a 914/6 wiring diagram). Currently, plan is to modify the 3.6 harness with a female 12-pin connector so the column 'plugs in' to the harness like a factory model. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!

Link: SAVED - 914/6 steering column pin-out

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A bit late on this post, but wanted to share a few photos of the June 6th 'Corona Run' in Southern California. While the car isn't done, obviously, it was a lot of fun and great to see such a strong turnout (around 50 cars if I remember correctly).

More pictures to be found on a page I'm starting focused on 914s and all things Porsche - instagram handle @914seis.

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Work continues on the 914/6 steering column! Small progress, but a big hurdle. While this project isn't to make a 'Six-clone', I do want to match the wiring scheme somewhat (just ignore that 3.6 ECU and conversion equipment) and have the wiring scheme make sense. A big part of this is matching the 12-pin connector found on the 914/6 column with the 914/4 harness I have. Luckily, having an old-harness to harvest from I was able to de-solder the female pin connectors, and then re-solder them on to matching wires. From there, I simply used the 'male' side of the harness to match up the 2 pieces.

Shout-out to @jim_hoyland for coming in with a replacement connector after finding out mine was damaged. Now, it seems like its just a matter of connecting the right-wire with the right function (Turn signal, High-Beam, etc.).

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Bodywork on the car is in full swing! I can’t seem to remember where I purchased the front valence, but it did need a bit of work. Split down the middle, widening, and adjustments on the sides right below the wheel-wells / flares. Happy to say though, it’s coming along nicely.

As for the side-skirts, these need very little work. Pro-tip, if installing flares, get these before cutting and welding, and it will save you one-big headache. Figment seems good, just need to install a few spacers and bolt in!

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A few photos from today’s progress, not much to update on as the photos speak for themselves. One small note that I would like to add... we ended up glassing in the two mounting bolts on the front part of the valence. This makes it a lot easier to take off and remount.

As Joe continued work on the valences and side-skirts, I’m trying to take this opportunity to ‘clean up’ and ‘restore’ as many pieces of the car as I can. First up, trunk hardware, seat rails and brackets. Sandblast, clean, tape-off, paint and repeat. It’s my opinion that the little things like this are what makes a project of this size really shine.

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Currently away on a business trip, but work continues on the car while I'm out. Slowed down a bit last week, as I was planning a 'Surprise Party' for my wife's 30th Birthday, and this week is a trip to Southern Utah. In my effort to stay motivated and keep momentum, I was able to snap a few photos of the progress on the front bumper and valence. While it is much more work than anticipated (see previous posts about valence being a bit short), I absolutely love the work Joe is cranking out on the bumper cutout, namely taking the bottom 'lip' and blending it in to the cutout to make it look complete. A bit more work, hopefully by the time I get back, and it will be ready for aluma-lead, then paint.

NOTE: While the mesh was originally installed and 'done', I ended up asking Joe to pull it off a redo the whole thing as I didn't like the 'teeth' look.


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Looking good.
Is your metal guy blending the ends of the valance to the flares?

@mepstein - That's right. It seemed to me that, looking at reference photos, most are either 'flush' or there is about an 1/8" offset between the wheel-well and the front of valence. I'm good with either, though I thought this looks better. I figure if I ever want that offset, I can add a spacer on the front and 'boom'.

Still out of state, but heading home from the customers site my Father sent me a few photos of both the front bumper and valence in primer, as well as the 'Frame' we added around the mesh for the oil cooler to reinforce the structure. Not much left to do here except for finishing, painting, and touching up the rubberized undercoating on the front bumper-area and the back of the bumper!

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It looks like a stronger mounting point has been added to the valance.

@mepstein - Correct again! Look at my post #873 and you can see where we glassed in studs. Much easier to take it on and off, as well as adjust it. My Dad and I are toying with the idea of pulling molds of this valence and selling to people interested. Not to 'knock' the original FRP shop, but this needed ALOT of work; widening about 1"-1.5", adjustment, capping off the ends under the wheel-well, finishing, etc.

Nice progress and work. Can't miss those nice front early S aluminum calipers......

I like them, but may switch to Boxster calipers for purely cosmetic reasons. These were completely restored by PMB, and have zero miles, may post to classifieds.

No large updates, but plan to be at the ranch this weekend to finally 'finish off' the dash wiring. Front valence and bumper are in primer, and we are moving onto the side-skirts and rear. For the rear, most likely, will cut off the exhaust tip and customize the rear valence for either single or dual exhaust and then re-attach. I haven't quiet decided which I like better.

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Less updates, but a bunch on progress! Simultaneously having the side and rear valences worked on as my Father and I work on revising the oil system. Most of the updates in this post relate to the side-valences, as they need a bunch of work.

Let me start off by saying, the side valences need a lot of work. Starting this project, I was fortunate that we had the side-skirts on as we welded on the flares. Note to anyone reading; Even having the side-skirts on when we welded the flares, they need ALOT of work. They are NOT 'plug and play'. As with the front valence, expect a lot of sanding, building up, and possibly adding glass. In my case, we had to glass in ABS to add about 1/2" on the top lip for anything to line up flush with the doors and fenders. Once added onto the car, that's when the shaping and build-up comes in.

Forecasting the work to be done, the guys 'back-filled' the rockers with fiberglass so that we are not constantly attaching / disconnecting the pieces. After the first phase was complete and everything lines up, it was time to add more filler so that the 'curves' of the fenders match with the fenders (last photo) and blend in a radius to match the car-body.

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As the guys work on the body-work, my Dad and I were concentrating on equipment in the front trunk (Amplifier, Oil Cooler, Fuel Pump and Lines, etc.). First order of business on this front, we decided to add a bulk-head fitting for the lines entering the wheel-well as the old-setup. We increased the size of the cutout to about 3-1/2 inches, then fabricated a 'block off' plate with AN connectors. Installing it today but once done, the lines will run along the passenger side of the car, and come to a 90º fitting where they will enter the cab. From there, it will have a straight fitting to the oil-bypass thermostat where it will connect to the GT cooler.

I'm nixing the original equipment, so look out for this in the classifieds section. While I don't like it for my car, its very good for racing purposes as you can mount the fuel pump, oil breather and fuel filter to the aluminum shrowd. Uses a stock 964 oil cooler that has adaptors for AN fittings.


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Another day and gratefully, more progress!

Again, with the help of my Father we were able to get the bracket for the oil line bulk-heads situated. Unfortunately, we had to make another bracket, but hey.... par for the course. This new bracket is inset within the fender well, as we needed that extra space for the proper 90º-AN fitting to make the turn. Only downside to this is we had to cut the fender-well a little more than anticipated, add a small patch above the fitting (see the photos) and slightly 'ding' the interior heater tube about 1/2".

As we completed the bracket and bulkhead, the guys progressed on the side-skirts, which I'm happy to say are done and looking very good! So good, in fact, that rather than go with my original plan to 'texture' the pieces, I'm just going to paint satin-black to match the non-chrome trim.

Now, we focus back on the front valence, as I finish up on the oil system; Cooler, shrowd, and front trunk placement. Moving away from the original 964 cooler has caused me to move things around in the front trunk. Now, the fuel pump, filter and amplifier will sit on the front firewall, and the spare tire will go in its 'stock' location in the rear-trunk. While this seems trivial, it's important to me because I want to be able to take 'road trips', and still accommodate a few duffle bags and equipment.First order here was making a bracket to mount the Amplifier on the front firewall, so as my Dad finished the welding on the bulkhead mount, I designed the plate and cut on our laser machine. Goal here is to have a system where the only wires and connections you see come out from behind the Amp and bracket.

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In my last post, I made mention of the current focus on locating items in the front trunk, and 'nixing' the original 964 oil cooler for a more 'vintage' looking option. Thanks to my Dad and the folks on my GT Cooler thread (Link found here), I was able to source info from some owners and come to the conclusion of what I want to do on my car. Shoutout to everyone on the oil-cooler thread, with special thanks to @SirAndy @mepstein @Retroracer @Steve @eric9144 ConeDodger for putting up with my dumb-questions

As I mention on the thread, it's important to me to have a fan setup as my 3.6 has no onboard forced air and I live in Southern California and am often subject to heavy traffic. Eventually, I settled on a multi-fan solution, with a cooler and thermo switch from PMS.

Significant progress made on the project!

I've been meaning to update for a few weeks. Excited to report Side-skirts and Front valence are done, just awaiting paint. The bodywork on these pieces is phenomenal, and I couldn't be happier. Everything lines up very nicely, and we were even able to add a front 'lip' to the valence to match the lip on the lower-part of the front bumper.

Recommendation here: Make sure, when fitting your valence and bumper, to do so with the bumper top ON. It's so easy to create a poor alignment / fitment if all the equipment isn't attached.

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As work continues, my main focus has been fitting the GT cooler. I'm not trying to 're-create' or 'replicate' a GT car in any form, I just want my design to be clean. I ended up purchasing a louvered sheet metal piece from Patrick Motorsports (PMS) for $68.00 and welding it in to the (already previously cut for an AC) floor. In a 'while I'm here approach' I re-welded the previously cut floor, and both sections will get seam-sealer once done.

Note to anyone reading this with the same plans: The sheet metal from PMS comes in very long, so you could conceivably just cut out the bottom of the front trunk and stitch weld, but I wanted to keep some fo the factory form (folds in the floor).For my car, I first 'stitched' the bottom, then switched to the top and 'stitched' the spaced in-between.

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Regarding the GT cooler, I've attached some photos showing my approach. After receiving the unit from PMS, my original plan of using the plastic 'zip locks' to secure the Seal fans to the cooler went out the window, so I designed a bracket and used our laser-cutter to produce the piece in 1/4" ABS. Still unsure if I'll stick with ABS or go with water-jet.

With the Oil-cooler fans and floor complete, the tricky part was now how to 'mount' the cooler on a sort of shelf. To do this, I cut a piece of sheet metal about 1/2" larger than the cooler, and doubled up on the last 2-inches where the cooler studs would sit, photos attached. From there, I just stitched the front to the point of the body just below the front-bumper air-inlet, and marked where I want my M8 studs.

Note: I used a 35mm M8 stud to be able to accommodate a rubber grommet / spacer to give the oil cooler a bit of cushion.

I was hesitant if it would be rigid enough, but luckily I was over-thinking it; Once everything is welded together, it's super strong, and I'm very happy with the way it all turned out, functional and easy to disassemble if anything ever needs replaced. Once all the mockup was done, cue the grinding!


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For the fans, are you going thermostat activated or manual switch or ?
Mine is wired to an under dash on/off switch. I find I'm only really using the fans when things get up over 210 or so which I've only hit either pushing really hard in canyons or when stuck in traffic situations that have you not really moving.

Enrique - Your car is coming along with nicely. Love the front valance and rocker covers. I don't think you will have any problems with heat with that set-up.

Looks great. I'll bet your happy the fiberglassing is done. It was a pleasure meeting your parents. You come from good stock Rick.

Great job Enrique.

Hope to see your car in person very soon. You're moving along quite nicely



Oscar

@Eric9144 - Purchased an in-line thermal switch (Setrab unit, set to 190º), and plan on running this on the thermostat just below the passenger-side headlight bucket. Patrick Motorsports sells them, however you can find them nearly any-where (Link Here).

I'm paranoid about being stuck in traffic. Learning from the previous setup in the black-car, I really like the way the motor worked with the stock setup that included a thermal switch (on a secondary oil-filter). I can remember being in LA traffic several times with the 3.6, bumper-to-bumper for 3-4 hours and seeing no difference in oil-temps. Though the stock C2 unit had one big fan and one big cooler (22-rows), I'm hoping these three smaller units, wider double-pass cooler and more airflow / better system will do the trick.

.... Also, it's been fun to play fabricator.

@Cairo94507 @76-914 @ValcoOscar - Thank you, Thank you, and Thank you Gentleman. Hope to be out there soon with my fellow Californians

Non-914 update and station break!

Took a bit of time, and the garage 2-post lift, to help a close friend last week with his project; Installing a large (read VERY large) front mount intercooler, advanced air-intake, and other mods on his Abarth. As this fits the 'very cool' category, I thought I'de share a few progress and 'end' photos on this thread. Enjoy!

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Back to our regular programming, project 3.6 progress!

As my friend and I where wrenching away on the Abarth, it was time for our (incredibly talented) fiberglass modeler to adjust, fit and place the GT oil cooler shroud. I think I've mentioned earlier in this thread that it isn't exactly a high grade piece. From the photos, one can see how much 'filler' is needed in some places, as well as the inside to keep everything from flexing. Taking into account the amount the piece 'grew' we decided to match the radius of the front of the cooler to the front-clip of the car.

While here I decided to address something that nags me, considering I'm not using the stock cooler beneath the shroud, the original mounting bolt-holes. We decided to fill these from the top and grind down the inside, relying now on the two 'tabs' seen on the top of the Setrab cooler for mounting, as well as 2-4 more points on the trunk floor. While dealing with the filler, we added some of the compound to the 'spaces' between the existing trunk and the new louvered sheet metal. Next, these will get covered with seam sealer before painted with rubberized undercoating to match the undercarriage and rest of the front-trunk.

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Oil-cooler well on its way to completion. The beginning of this week was all about finishing up fabrication, starting off with the new additions to the front trunk and passenger-side bulkhead mount for the AN12 oil-lines.

Primered both the interior of the front trunk, as well as the undercarriage and air-inlet in the front before adding sealer and rubberized undercoating, so that everything matches and looks tidy. NOTE: To the reader considering doing this fabrication on a project car; Do as much as you can before painting. My car has gone through numerous iterations, and it is sometimes nerve-racking working around finished bodywork and paint.

As for the finishing, I chose to go 'thick' with the seam sealer and went with Wurth brushable. My car is 'anything but' stock, I like the look of this underneath the coating. It has nothing to do with 'it's what the factory used', nor am I trying to replicate that. I first applied it using a bondo applicator squeege to make sure to get inside the seams, then passed over the masked area with the brush. Love it, the way it looks, to me is pure 70's inspired racing.

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Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday this week were all about the oil-lines running on the passenger side. After reinforcing the area around the new bulkhead inlet, I also covered this with seam-sealer and applied rubberized undercoating. As I was re-running the oil-lines, I decided that the gussets that support the passenger entry 'step' still looked a bit big and needed to be ground-down a bit more, and then touched up this area with more undercoating, as well as the inside of the long there the bulkhead connections will be.

After running the lines BACK along the passenger side, I had to cut each to a shorter size (they were originally a 'home run' from the tank/engine to the thermostat) and fit the 90º AN12 fittings. For those following along, this is bear of a job. I hate putting new fittings on SS braided lines, but here we are. Also note, I've included a diagram for reference for those, like me, that were/are unsure which direction the oil flows within the system.

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Your GT project is coming along great. I have a question for you.
Looks like you made your own fan holding bracket out of abs.
How about knocking a few out of aluminum ? I could use two of them for my projects.

Or anyone here have the means to do this?

Hey Luke, you read my mind. This and a few other products will be available soon.

I'll also have the ability to produce custom laser-cut items.

Pm me when you get going on them. I'd be in for two of them.
I'll be running the same oil cooler that you have with the gt shroud.