Thanks and it looks great!! spent some time looking at your work but didnt know you fab'd them

Awsome car

Both headlight bucket and the drivers side trunk floor-to-wheel well are PO f'up's.

Rich makes this kit (a914guy) for the back half

I think I will make all but the trailing arm part out of 1/8" as Ajserrano recomended

found NOS long parts, listed as passenger inner, lmust be outer to with no holes and ribs but need confirmation on left side and what end the jack point would be on.

thanks

The rear section is now part of the car and look what was under the sill repair

lots planned for the long weekend

I'll be watching over the weekend. There should be several projects getting bumped this weekend!

well it's finally here, one number off from my COA. I at least have a period correct case and the parts to put a correct -6 engine together

finding one so close to what is said to be in the car from the factory is amazing alone I think

Nice welding !

Thats my buddy's welding skills, Yes I could have done it but it would have been alot more grinding on cleanup or a hole or two to fix.

That's Cool . CoA's can be wrong on these Numbers. My CoA said 4418 ( not far off from you), but the car came with 4444. There was no reason or record of changing it.

I wish I had kept that Un-number'd 914-6 Case I had a few years back. At least I know it went into a Real -6

I know a guy that has two unstamped Mag cases but he's not great at following thru so I went this route. He refered to them as replacement cases.

Back at it today, In order to keep cross contamination from the rotiss. to the car a little cleanup was needed.

Yellow for safety of course. You did'nt specify color Joe

battery area patch work

some more sill probing and removal

hope to get some more done tomorrow, I did pull the trigger on the NOS outer long and sill so waiting on that and more exploring before I place another order with Restoration Design

Ahh...a -6 I completely understand now Andy! Impressive work! Keep it going...hopefully we can drive these cars to "Teenergetton" if it happens.

Bob

the sill and rocker came in today and the Engman kit and looks

the passenger side engine ledge was poorly fixed and braised in so it will be replaced

striping the donor parts

the drivers side jack point was not as bad as the pass. side and a shot inside. Just arond the jack point and solid either side

waiting for the rear quarters before finishing the but lineing up nicely. Alot of progress for a holiday weekend and some more tomorrow. I'm really enjoying this resto and inching closer to driving my dream car!!

So with the longs open.... what have you used to treat and convert the surface rust inside of the longs?

I want to seal things up before closing up and keep it from rusting from the inside out especially since I will be running heat. I prefer a product that hardens/ dries completely to make welding up easier and strong.

thanks in advance!!

putting the sail under structure back together, glad I had a few parts cars

We need a new smilie name sparky that is using a grinder

more after work progress. the drivers side will be a bit easier

WOW

The car has now been sealed but in the process it exposed a few small holes the console on the pass. side has one on top and a bunch on the bottom so it will get replaced.

That means the pass. engine tray will have to wait. it will be interesting to see how bad it is behind the mount

bottom edge for the sail area was made since the break is in the shop. A liitle more grinding to flush the welds up

And with all the dents and a PO that jacked the car up from the floor pans I think they will go as well. It will be alot of work to get them right and be easier and cheper to just replace.

Please post pics of the inside of your console when you remove it. I bet it is nice and crusty.

The suspension floor pans and console are on order but I will get lots of pics of the removal and the inside to show its condition.

More work on the longs and prep for the jack point. waiting for Eastwoods frame rust converter and sealer before it all goes back together.

this last picture sucks but shows what the final parts will look like finished, now for the bottom of the long and treat inside before final

Andy,--(Socalandy)

Beautiful workmanship I really enjoy reading the progress report every time you post. I am amazed how clean your shop is????

Merry Christmans to you and your family & don't work too hard over the holiday.

Tom

Thanks but most of the cred. goes to my buddy Kent!! He's the true metal master and his clean shop, I'm helping when and where I can.

Way to go Andy! Such a huge project & we see so many of those go unfinished. You are making great progress on it. Your big project I think really makes people reconsider a project. It is pretty daunting dealing with so much rust. Seeing someone else do it is inspiring. Heck I have a 73 that is in much better shape than yours. The hell hole is bad to be sure. More metal work than I ever wanted to tackle. Still I haven't brought myself to get rid of it. Once I learn to weld I may just take the plunge .

Anyway big time Kudos my friend. I can't wait for more pics

Very cool Andy! I can't wait to see more progress and it gets me excited to start my progect.

Dude your project rocks,keep the photos coming

So back at it today and lots of goodies arrived. Spent several hours with the air hose and vacume getting out left over media from blasting and preping the longs for the Eastwood rust converter/sealer. It really flows well and the fine spray nozzle gives a nice 360 deg. fog.

Stop the rust in its tracks!!!

the green stuff is the eastwood converter that ran out and got wiped off, it covered way better than expected and flows into every little creveice. We drilled a few holes to treat enclosed areas. This cars internal areas are sealed

more....

time to close up the longs and attack the suspention console

That looks great. How many can/s did you use? I'm thinking of doing my longs & rear suspension.

How well do you think this product would work using the stock openings?

I only drilled two small holes that will get welded up and I think it will work very well other than the longs, not very much room from the oval holes inside of the longs with the heater tubes in the way.

With the longs open for the repairs we were able to use ridgid wire and get the spary tube all the way to both ends of the longs . With the floor pan being replaced I didnt treat the tunnel or the fire wall areas since it will be open with full access.

I would not try it on a painted car unless you plan on a repaint. it travels around too freely and I think it will bite into a finshed coat. FYI, with the presure in the spray tube it will continue to spray for 3-4 seconds after you stop depressing the nozel on the can!!!

I order 5 cans and only used 3 so far. all areas treated got two coats and the longs got a 3rd for good measure

I've torn apart at least 5 914's and have never seen this threaded insert/hole used for anything They are not on the repop floor pans

Any help???

Thanks in advance!!

Plastic covers for the threaded hole for the center (3rd) seatbelt bolts.

Only early cars (70/71) had the 3rd seatbelt option. Later cars don't have the holes ...

something new learned

Thanks Andy

what a load off my shoulders to have the longs cleaned,sealed and closed up and then on to the console and battery tray with less worries.

The point and shootcamera is at the shop but I will post pics showing the steps later. The after shots with the Nikon...

into the engine bay. Did the battery tray on my 72 so no big deal other than a little fitment but really impressed with the quality and fit of Restoration Designs Console needed no tweaking

still need to cut off the fuel press. bracket

now for the rust pics. The inside of the console was loaded with rust scale and you will see some rust holes and a few cracks