the case was decked as well and like I thought the cams will be a re-grind to early E. Remember, I'm running carbs. Where do I get the Carb. spacers that reduce heat transfer from the heads?

Twin plug also solves cross burn delay across the cyl. and allows some Adv. timming in addition to helping with possible misfire "SIBT". I'll still be able to run pump gas and its a street car not track and it will still go down the road plenty fast. No. I wont race for pinks!! the Dyno will show what the results are

Jeff's building a similar engine for me and I think I've decided on Mod-S cams from Elgin. After talking with Dug I think I'd like to keep my intakes at 36mm though. I had 40's on my engine and, while it was fun when it was "RIP'n" it hardly had enough low end torque to get out of it's own way.

If it is a street car as you say... watch your ports.

Eric, are you also going to 3.0?
you need not worry about torque
once you jump above your 2.5, you'll find tons of torque.

I'm loving my twin plug
but with the tiny displacement it is more important than with these big motors.

3.0 is going in the 911. It will be a MFI motor. S-Cams and MFI and... that's it. 36mm intakes on that as well.

2.5 is for the 914

assembly started, sorry for the crap cell pictures

more tomorrow with the Nikon camera

Well after a rough few months of work, fathers trust I'm caught up and thank you Ron for helping get Joe's engine out. Sorry for the delay Joe!!!

The car is back from media blasting and I know i have alot of work ahead of me but it's better than I thought it would be!!!! I have all the skins needed and of course the flares so were off and running and hope to supply a steady stream of progress photos.

time work some

I may just be able to save the floor pans

Can you give details on the blasting? Media, time, cost, did outfit come to you or did you bring to them, what's next? thanks, mark

Mark - there's a company in Philly that does soda blasting. I think they gave me an estimate of $1000, which included pick up / delivery of the car from my house, if the car was already taken apart / ready for blasting.

Scott

it was and walnut shell blend, looked like some fine silica sand. I delivered and picked up and it was $1400.00 I dropped it off last thurs. but with rain on friday I asked them to wait until Monday to start. It was ready for pickup tuesday. The company is AFCO in Gardena.

cutting and trimming began last night in prep. for in the stiffining kit and rear quarters/ tail section. Then the pass. sill/rockers work and floor. It will be at least a week before its time to mount the gt rockers and valance to line up the flares

Looked like more than soda since rust was removed.

Just my opinion but I don't think the rockers and valences have anything to do with the flare positioning. The flares are structural to the body and become part of the body of the car and should be fitted to the wheel opening. The rockers and valences are trim pieces and should be fitted to the body of the car. Again, jmo.

Nice...

Looks like garnet from the bits I saw on the floor pan.

Keep going!

Wow , The tub looks so much better all blasted.
Pretty straight forward from here.

Andy are the pinch weld seem that pass along the rear shocks on the underside straight ?
I have seen with the smallest of rear end damage they can get a curve in that section.
Not knowing how bad the back was from rust or accident damage. Just curious.
Jeff

It was an accident and it wasnt. the PO before Joe of course, cut the rear and corner pannels off and not in a pretty way. it all looks strait but will be taking measurements to verify its in spec. Then the door and chassis bracing goes on and on the rotiss.

A little cell phone clip picking up the car

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_AcuqG3wCQ...der&list=UL

and a few shots while they blew out the media

looking for the site with the chassis measurments please

thanks in advance!!

http://www.914world.com/specs/bodydims.php


http://www.914world.com/specs/underdims.php

God I love this place I should have type measurments for GT flares. I can only find pictures but no mearsurments for proper placment

Thank You Sir!!

The back edge of the front flairs line up with the back edge of the stock fender and the front edge of the rears line up with the front edge of the flairs.

The fronts need to project forward so the wider tire/wheel combo don"t catch the front corner of the flair when turning.


It is also the safest to have the rockers at the same time to adjust as needed.




Armando's site is a great reference, here is the seam ;

http://www.pbase.com/9146gt/image/112146544

so trimming of the rear section for the donor parts begins.....

a bit more trimming and install the engine lid and deck lid for fit and alingment

prep for the new battery tray

prep on the jam for the donor rear fender

and the jack point Ohhhhhh FUCH this is gonna be a bit more work

and some of the bits ready for the scrap yard, the first two pics show the rust around the where they injected foam into the rear section. I will be removing mine and rustmort it.

not a bad day of work and seeing behind the jack point was a bummer but I've seen worse fix in threads here.

Question, a few holes I.m not sure are factory

1, driverside headlight bucket. PO work I'm thinking

2, front driverside trunk. PO again?

Thanks

I almost forgot, look what I found in the glove box that I couldnt open until the dash was out. Sweeeeet

The holes in 1 look like PO TLC.

The big hole on the left in 2 looks like the same hole I have on my 4 for the hose that goes from the spare tire to the washer bottle to pressurize it. This may have been present on 6 chassis as well. Not sure about the small hole on the right.

Head light bucket holes are definately PO. Flatten a piece of copper tubing and clamp it in for a backer and weld those up.

cool trick, I will use it while wearing my Area 51 Works welding jacket

Nice progress!

At least there wasn't a family of mice in the long Like a -6 , I SOLD.

Andy, I dont know your wheel plans , make sure you have equal room R & L for down the road, My car , to put the 15x9's on with 245/50's x 15's took a considerable amount of rework/paint on one flair to get them to fit.

Well I got a few boxes of goodies yesterday and opened them today. nice stuff and Thanks Tangerine and RD

I think another Restoration Design order is going to be needed!!!

Back to the shop for some more. almost all the trimming done for the rear section and lined up with the deck lid. some work on the sail pannels maybe next

More work on the tail end and a pic of some scraps

looking thru pictures from this weekend, interesting to see some of the inner structure like the trans. support bar where it connects to the inner fender.

Question to the group...

I had every intention to use the factory -6 engine mount for the 3.0 motor. Will I ever be able to really drive the car hard or will it fail? options on reinforcing it or just order a coversion mount

should be around 240hp

Thanks

Factory GT's used the factory mount with reinforcements. There are pictures available. Armando did it to his and I think Eric Shea did also. I would go that way - way cool!

WOW, that ate up some time looking at those pics

Thanks guys!!!

what rear stiffening kit should I get, the one for the rear wheel wells. Engman or Welt. What have you used and liked?

Thanks

I would make your own and use 1/8", much stronger. This is what we did http://www.pbase.com/9146gt/my9146gt_chass...t_install_right