Andy, I think you need to raise your rear bracket.

I cant raise the top line any higher so I was going to have a buddy add a bit more bend, Did I not clearance something some where?

yes, just give it a tweek, it wont kink.

If you wanted to finish off the chassis holes, you could use one of these products.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&a...12KFpUcfg4S8DNg
Tom

Hey Andy !!
I was at Ralph Meaney's place today with a shopping list of sorts, and I did a bunch of machine work for him and his partners, Anyway I thought of you when he pulled this out of the deep archives. Want It ??
Trust me there is no other -6 parts,

Thanks Tom, nice looking edge protector!!!

A big thanks to Jeff, another part I can scratch of my list. I had to move my welding work into my courtyard today after the jack hole across the street got bent outta shape Glad I have the cart with wheelsfor the welder and bottle. I hate HOA's

Nice grills !!! does anyone know where I can get a well priced oil coole for my 916 bumper ??? Trying to get this 914/6 project finished-Phil

Nice welds dude

Thanks for contributing to Ralphs retirement fund..He appreciates it.

Looking good Andy

Before you paint or powder those, grind the handbrake adjustment tube flat on the wheel side as well. Depending on how you want to deal with the caliper/rotor offsent, you'll need as much room in there as possible for the caliper.

You can put a 4.5mm spacer under the rotor hat but that will eat up a little clearance and, we can usually use all that we can get.

That leaves spacing the calipers back with washers and they can hit the lip of the adjustment tube (you can see the lip sticking up past the weld on the factory tube).

Just a heads up...

Or you could buy 916 rotors.

Yup... Around $250 each, not that bad actually.

So you like the ride better without the rear sway Eric? Based on all the great comments in the -6 suspension recommendations thread I will be ordering 140lbs progressive springs and adjust full soft to start on the Koni's.

These came today

Much. Had a couple of issues. the bar was hitting the trunk floor and the arms were up against the dials on my GT shocks.

Even with the stock 200lb. GT springs it's much better. I'll be putting some 150's on tomorrow and I'll report back. I believe you are in the sweet spot with what you're planning.

Got it down to the bead of the weld, Do you think I should grind my welds down also or are they out of the way enough?

If my welds looked that good, there is no way I'd grind em off.

I'm no expert on aerodynamics, but it would seem that the raised portion of the louvers should point downwards with the opening towards the back of the car.
That way the air under the car will create a low pressure zone at the opening thus helping the hot air to exit.

Your current configuration seems to block air exit instead of aiding it ...

Grinding is perfect. No need to grind the others.

Also... I with the Sir on that one

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Thanks Sir. and glad this was noticed before paint!!! looks like I'm going for the big opening like your GT Eric

I'm glad I don't have to grind down my welds and the cred goes to my buddy Kent as I've learned a lot from him. I didn't tell him the first tube weld was crap due to me forgetting to turn on the bottle

Ground it down and started over I really enjoy the welding!!!

more suspension parts back from powder coating, I know.... front spindals are not green

the body is blocked down to 220 with another guide coat and few more rounds to go. lots of tedious sanding but looking super smooth

Its gonna look great... Blue right ??

you mean Adriatic Blue

Very impressive !!!

What's the target date ....of her unveiling

\

I'm thinking Feb/Mar at this point. I don't want to rush anything, I enjoy the reassembly process and want to get it as perfect as I can.

Cleaned the oil tank up today and its off to get flushed out and striped for it's copper dip

Here's the worst spot on the tank metal wise and look the the sandy grime inside the tank

more parts for the plating pile

Is the full level where my arrow is on the dip stick in the middle ? no stamped lines on dip stick

Thanks

lol

Thanks again Ralph and Jeff

Kent added braces to the front flares on the trailing end and block sanding down to 220 is done. Fixed the stripped threads for the drivers side swing arm.

new threaded insert welded in

Kent has finished the first of his custom flares on his car

Looks like he deleted the door handles too. Fun

Any updates?

The last and very wet coat of primer, then 320 sanding and sealer

easier to see the lines wet and before another guide coat

Looks nice ............
Hopefully I'll be there someday.

Loving it. I can't wait to be able to look at pictures of my car in primer after all of the metal work.

Thanks,

I got the oil tank back from the boys at Pacific Oil Cooler service and man is this thing clean inside and out. Thanks to Joe O'brien for telling me about them, they do a great job on coolers and now I know they will referb. tanks too.

now its off to the chrome shop for copper plate and then powder coat.

Almost time to blow color !!

Now that the world didn't end we should have color on the pan,wheel wells, interior and engine compartment before the new year.

I did wrap up the oil tank and opted to use high temp paint instead of powder coating it. Got one little run while shooting it but know one will see it. I want to get a coat of oil inside to keep it from flashing and need some recommendations on what to use that wont contaminate the oil system later. I'm thinking regular motor oil would be OK but will the oil film stay put over time?

Put some motor oil in it and turn it over every once in a while.

That's what I was thinking but thought there might be something better. I didn't like the suggestion of using WD40. Really didn't think that would be something I'd want in the oil system

Definitely not WD40.

Regular oil and mix a bit of blue STP into it.
Say a couple tablespoons STP to a pint of oil. Only use the blue STP.
Use the left over oil for the drill press or any other storage rust protection.

Undercoating today Sorry... cell phone pic. More later

looks great and works perfect for replacing seams I removed to get at the rust

Lookin good Andy! That is really coming along. Keep up the great work

Looks good in seams! What are you using?