Ya, your T3 is one of my all time favorites. If I had time, $$ and space I would do that too.

Well, there is no turning back now. I just bought the tri-ported heads. I hate buying big things, but it is really what is needed to make the engine correct for what it is. Gonna need to rebuild me a few more gear boxes to pay for this

Quit your belly-aching.

I might have a tranny to send to you this winter out of my 914. Doesn't NEED it, but I want it gone through and an "H" 5th installed.

Gimme gimme

Alright EvilOne, as soon as I get my Monster back on the road I'm sending you a tranny!

Probably 3-4 weeks?

I might have someone to send you another to rebuild next spring. Far off, I know...

Oh oh, the heads, adapters, and stuff showed up today I started dropping the engine yesterday. I have the CIS apart and am starting to evaluate the feasibility of CIS vs MegaSquirt. the bus will crave some more $$ before it will be right, but the biggest part is now here Pics later.

Today it was sunny, 52*, and I was OFF of work So, I got to do some work on the bus. The engine is almost ready to come out. It only needs the starter wires and tranz cooler hoses removed, and then I can drop it. I spent some of today welding/modifying jack stands, too. Scotty B is on his way over for New Years....maybe I will turn him out I hope to have the engine out this weekend, but it is supposed to rain some time. Nothing pic worthy yet.

So, while jacking the ass end of the bus, the thing shifted and fell to the side opposite of me. There is still a bit of a hill and it is now soft grassy ground. I seem to have this under control now with the ass end up about 18", but I need a way to get my engine out from under the bus once I drop it. I designed a dolly with 10" pneumatic tires that will allow me to lower the engine and drive train down on top of it and roll the whole package out from under the bus. I got about 1/3 of it done tonight in my basement (not cold! ) and will hopefully have it done and used tomorrow.

Ok, I know you guys could care less without pics, so here is the all terrain engine dolly.

First the bare frame.

With minimal skin. I am gonna try it like this first. It is sturdy and stands less than 7" from the ground to the deck. It is hard to type with my left hand after all of the trauma....

FINALLY! I got to use my contraption and got the engine out pretty easily. Kind of hairy once the cradle was pointed down hill in order to get it into the garage. No much traction on a painted floor wet with snow
Now the fun begins

Next

And into the OR

Cool!

That looks like the start of one honkin' home-made go kart!

Very cool!

I kinda forget, what's the plan? 3 port heads?

3 port heads (already on the shelf) and Porsche 3.0 CIS (already apart and being cleaned

That frame you made looks strangely familiar!

You used bigger wheels though.

Also the bus in the air like that in the snow also looks strangely familiar! lololol
Zach

That almost looks like cheating

ALOMST looks like fun til you realize that driveway is as steep as Zachs and is most likely half a sheet of ice

Yup, I got the idea from that rig we used as Matt's place.

Most of PA is a sheet of ice right now. Silly Virginian!

Zach

Cool tool....the sled I mean. Dr. Cock. Sir

So, the diff is off and completely apart. That squeaking noise and lack of Posi was due to......drum roll please......the posi plates and disks being completely bare and scraping So, only $71 shipped to replace them. No biggie....but, while I am in there I thought I would source out a 3.27 R/P set to replace the 3.55 set I already have. Lower RPM by a smidge. I could easily get a 3.08 set, but that has the explicit warning of not using with lower HP engines (not an issue) and not in hilly areas (have that). 3.08 seems too low. 3.55 is actually fine so any small improvement would be cool. Price will tell.

The damn trans pan gasket keeps leaking as does the control cable. I will have to replace the cable ($200) and will likely change to an Al pan for rigidity since I can not keep the fluid in

I need to rebuild another gear box, any takers?

The choice in tires must have helped; two tough elements to overcome for sure.

The cart looks like it worked out nicely and held its own. (and that drivetrain lol)

More pics of the carnage. This is what the posi looks like disassembled. Well, the posi and the whole damn diff.

And the completely worn clutch disks and plates.

So, the diff is assembled with different R/P set (was 3.55 now 3.27), back lash is w/i tolerance, all bearings preloaded per MFR instructions. I just need to score some gear marking dye to check the interface and I can call that part good.

I still have the engine on the sled and will need help lifting it onto the stand. As such, I figured I could shed 30# by removing at least one head. Plus, I wanted to see what was going on with the passenger side. very rich running, possible oil burning. The carbon build up is insane. No pics right now...at work until tomorrow AM sometime.

I am debating on whether or not to CC the chambers on the new heads like I did on the old ones. I probably will I hope I still have all the gear that I made.

Can I reuse the copper head gaskets? They look fine. Do I need to re-anneal them? I may need new ones after doing the CR calc anyway. Maybe I will bump it a few tenths

The major transmission leak seems to have all come from the selector cable. The sheath on it parted from the metal sleeve at the end and allows fluid to piss all over the place. Everywhere I go the back of the bus is covered in ATF. As such, I had to shell out some dough for a repro cable (ouch). It is about the only "expensive" part that I have bought for this drive train (stock).

Next, I will pull the other head, check the diff, get engine on stand.

I know we all like pics, so here are some of the chambers and such.

Samoa

Lastly

Your fuel mileage must have sucked. The CIS is not the most conservative but once you get it dialed in it will work better than the toilet flusher.

Ya, I thought I was actually getting 10mpg If I can get modern mileage levels with a bread box, that would rock!

I'm looking forward to seeing your intake setup. I always thought the CIS from a rabbit could be adapted onto the typeIV as an option over carbs.

To note, and to no surprise, the engine ran really cool head temps

Engine on the stand, other head off, no surprises there.

A nice tip for those of you with no friends or like me, have no time when your friends do and need to move your engine from the floor to the stand. I spent $8 on cinder blocks, slowly rock the engine side to side while building blocks under it, then slip the stand onto the adapter. Took < 5min.

Don't know if gear marking dye is anything special, but I do know tool and die makers and die setters used to use Prussian Blue oil pigment (from the art supply store) to check high/low spots and alignment. Cleans up with a rag and solvent and is so fine it won't score mirror surfaces. Doesn't set up like Dykem Blue so they would just apply to the true surface and mate the parts to mark the high spots of the mating surface. After stoning and polishing the high spots they would clean the mating surface, make sure the coating was even on the true surface and repeat and repeat and repeat.......

My father was a Tool & Die Maker at the Budd Co. in Philadelphia. Most proud of the first die he ever made completely by himself, the end plate for a (I think) 56 Chevy dashboard. (about 2-1/2' x8" with a compound curve, the edges drawn over and two countersunk piercings). First die the company ever produced that was true the first strike in the tryout press.

Harvey

Prussian blus is used, but is dark and hard to see. I have some white lithium that I am going to try. Same concept as the blue. The paste that I can get from the auto dealer is basically a yellow paste that does not set up. I feel confident that I can get-r-done with the lithium.

How did you lower the engine and transmission down to the cradle?

Nice design on the receiver.

PS

Feel like a wimp complaining about a little rain stopping me from putting my engine back in....

The receiver is a unit I bought from a guy off of the Samba

The roller has an empty section that I built in specifically for the jack. I just roll the jack in and lower the engine. Raising it is just the opposite.

OK, time for some re-education. If the cylinders have this scoring mark on the low side, does this mean I have to do anything? I know it is likely because of one of the times that damn carb flooded the engine (no lube) and it gouged the sides a bit. I cleaned all the piston heads and barrels up on the one side tonight. Scotch brite and spun stainless pads.

Here are some close-ups of the marks. These were brand new.

Uno mas. Mis pedos olfean como muerte.

The lithium grease idea worked just fine. It gave me a faint pattern to read on the diff gear that was perfect.

Here is a good article about setting up differentials and such:
http://www.differentials.com/install.html

Lithium, good for more than just mood stabilization

Well, the pistons and cylinders ALL have rub marks....this is a kiss of death for the parts, and my account The worst part is that I need 6 p/c and that is typically a PITA to get since they come is sets of 4. The other PITA is that they all need to be modified to be used, which is more time and $$.

What are you seeing that I am not?
Unless the scoring is deeper then it looks, I don't see why that could not just be polished out. Are the pistons really so shot that they can't be used? they are really so shot that you can't just re-ring?

Zach

I got the same feeling, that they could be reused....but so far have had only you reflecting that sentiment. I ordered a dingle berry hone to recondition these. The skirts on the pistons are showing light scoring, but the factory marks are still there. The original hone marks on the cylinders are still present under the score marks. I can take better pics and get a consensus today. I think I will start a new thread to get more input.

Pues no te los tires cerca de mi.

just use them....cross hatch with a hone if you want to feel better..My guess is that you will have the same scrapes within a couple of hours after re-install....

The cylinder in the 14 HP Kohler in my John Deere is scored a lot worse than that and it runs fine.