Measure the fuel line ID or the pump inlet barb, go down to your FLAPS, go to the huge fuel filter selection board, and pick one that matches the fuel line ID and the amount of money in your pocket. I used the translucent rectangular plastic ones that were non-metric as they were cheap and worked great.

25.4 mm per inch means a 6mm id is about a quarter of an inch, 8mm is about 5/16.

The inlet is 12mm and the FP is putting out 70-90 psi so I am reticent to use just any old filter. However, I would expect any big honking one would work. It needs to flow

Mike, fuel pressure shouldn't matter. If I'm reading this correctly and you're doing a "pre filter" you're on the suction side of the pump.

Clarified my post. It needs to be able to flow, yes.

gotcha!

Evil,

Don't worry about the flow too much. All fuel injection systems use a honkin big high pressure high volume pump, and then bleed off the excess pressure and flow.

Remember the plastic fuel filter found in the 4 cyl 914's? That's plenty big enough. All you need to do is find a filter with the correct inlet and outlet size that is at least close to that in size. They tend to come in metal or plastic. After the load of crappy fuel episode, I like the translucent ones because you can see the crud. When your filter gets full, the pump sound volume also increases.

I didn't run a pre-filter. Just a huge one after the pump and accumulator.

My tank doesnt have a filter sock anymore as it is modified. I want to keep particles out of the pump. Seems like an easy way to add cheap protection.

I have been able to communicate with the hose maker. He changed his tune in one email and wanted the ends sent to him. I sent him the email where he said that those were included, and that I didnt have the ends anyway and he agreed. I calculated the cost for everything and will be sending a MO for the kit. He will not be able to make it until sometime after next week. At least the process is still in motion. So far the cost is looking good

Money in the mail today with list of hoses and fittings. I hate waiting

Finally got some time to work on the bus. The only pic I have right now is of the adapter hose that I fabbed up. The zip ties are only for the mock up

please change to black zip ties, the clear ones break down much quicker, plus the black looks stealth and more professional, thus gainng you the respect of fellow hack mechanics

Hunh? Clear ones are virgin nylon resin, black ones require adding something (carbon black) to color them.

Usually, adding something to virgin resin weakens it- unless it is the cheap crap mystery resin from companies like "Whang Poo" and "Dong Yu"

Go back to stroking your pussy, Ken

Make sure that throttle body above the fan pulley doesn't touch the pulley from vibrations or torque twisting the engine in the bay.
I would replace the blue silicone connectors from the manifolds to the throttle body with something rigid to maintain the geometry of that construction under all circumstances.
Nice build.

Too hot. All cats are in molt mode and if stroked, a cloud of fur erupts into the air.

Need any free cat fur? Makes an interesting texture for future painting projects.

The blue connectors on the main body are very thick and rigid.

Here is the vascular system mocked up

Looking good

The custom CIS hoses are almost done......long story I will tell when they are in hand

Ughh, maybe i should keep the bus, I just have nowhere to keep it this fall during school.

Its going up for sale this week.

Wrong thread. No one cares about your bus here

Stainless braided fuel hoses arrived today and are mocked up. All looks well. Only one fitting left out of the order to allow for gas to and from the tank

Pics tomorrow, and I will hopefully have this thing buttoned up this weekend

When do we see the car seat install?

Patience, it first needs to drive, then the baby has to be born.

Leon's having a baby?

No, Noel is having my baby. Leon is off until Noel stops breast feeding (no booze ).

OK, no pics as I dont stop to take them usually. I am much closer now. Today, I made brackets for the pressure accumulator and the filter and mounted them under the bus. Then I made a bracket to hold the fuel pump, and under the bus it went. I have all of that plumbed up including a see through filter before the pump. I had to weld the brackets up and everything is held in place with hose clamps. Then, I marked the engine tin for modification, removed them, cut and welded what I needed changed, and smeared some quick steel on the seams. I will be sand blasting them and painting them next.

All that is left:
- Design throttle control
- Vac hoses
- button it up

Looking on schedule I'll try to take some pics of the fuel system tomorrow. I intend to remove all of it to pain the brackets once I have it mocked up and everything fits. That is a bit of the pain of engineering this stuff; you design, build and assemble only to disassemble, finish work everything, and then reassemble again

OK, it has been too long and I have been making progress here and there. All the hoses, fittings, fuel lines except for send and return (easy enough) are in place. The Tins are to be installed after being tweaked. All that is left to do is design the throttle linkage.

Looking good.

Do you realize the EFI is almost as big as the engine?

Really glad to see the braided high pressure EFI fuel lines rather than the nylon ones.

Now who were you going to throttle with the linkage?

additives such as carbon black do a good job of protecting plastic form the effects of UV radiaton. the carbon absorbs the harmful light rather than the polymers that can be damaged by the light. Pigmented plastics in general perform better in UV resistance than "virgin" plastics

Boy Evil, I wouldn't want to have to change those spark plugs!!

Ape, think a lot of UV gets in there? If it was a dash, I'd recommend black. This is not an area that gets a lot of sun, the clear has less additives and more strength, and it's an approprate place to use clear virgin resin.

And can you name a source of UV in an engine bay?

Its much easier than it looks and way easier than my suby


I cant wait to see if this over-engineered-whoosiewhatsit fires up this weekend.

Plan; Turn key --> then fix problems that are discovered

The universe is a little against me. Just a little. My Forester went for inspection today and they found a bad ball joint and rear brakes that were passable, but recommended replacement. $400 for all of it, I told them no thanks and I would fix it myself. The ball joint is $20, the brake shoes $15. Then the fun came.....the bolt holding the ball joint in place broke. I had to remove the whole hub assembly to drill it out. It would not come out. The non-threaded part needed to be drilled to paper thin and then barely was able to get out with an easy out. The other part of the bolt did not budge so I drilled it ant and began to re-tap new threads.....until the tap broke Oh well. That was 10pm.

Did I mention that bad T-storms are rolling through at the same time?

So, into the garage to work on stuff. I decided to get the headers rigged with phase one of my next experiment I ran out of tubing so it is not done.
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I also managed to get a pod filter to fit perfectly into the space on the engine bay. Hard to take pics of. I think I will turn the hole where the spare used to go into another access hatch for filter and FI maintenance.
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So it is a baby carrying corn mash still?

Only if it fails its intended purpose

Okay, am I the ONLY person that reads the title of this thread and just picture Doc driving around Ru Paul, Devine, and Mrs. Doutfire?

Doc,
What are the tubes for? I was thinking cooling, but that would be difficult with exhaust temps since you couldn't stop the coolant from boiling.

That said whats they fer?

Thomas

Heater?

Yup I will be wrapping the headers in 1/4"OD copper tubing that will eventually terminate to 1/2" ID heater hose for transport forward to a heater core. I have a stand alone water pump already. I dont plan on finishing this design before I am driving the bus, but I wanted to see if I could get the header part done before I put them on so I didnt have to take them off again later for this.

You might get enough hot water to make tea!

Can you name the city in which the Whang Poo and Dong Yu factories are located?

Remember additives can be added to give strength not just UV protection. The additive can be glass fibers, other polymers (a copolymer) carbon fibers, all sorts of fibers can give more strength. Additives can reduce swelling with heat, and of course additives can give UV protection.

Can UV degrade stuff in the 914 engine bay? Well parked in the sun, the light can pass thru the engine grills and damage things. If the rain tray is removed as is sometimes the case, UV can flood even more of the engine bay.


To answer you on UV in the engine bay I cite this example:
I have a 8+ year old Optima battery in my 914, the car gets occasional sun exposure but mainly it is covered, and has the rain tray. The top of the battery that is closest to the grill has a very visable fade pattern on its top, the red plastic is faded to pink. the fading is only on the portion that the sun can get at thru the grill, the shaded part of the battery is not degraded. This is UV degregation at work in the engine bay. I hope this unconfuses you. ????

Evil,

That's not a heating solution that I've seen before. Are you going to rely on contact and radiated heat to heat the copper pipe, or are you going to add something that conducts heat between the copper tubing and the exhaust pipe??

This is not done yet, it works just like capillaries in the body. It is to work off of contact with inevitable radiant heat as well. I plan to wrap the whole works in header tape to both keep the heat in and to keep the meth addicts from stealing the copper

I just spent a couple of hours looking for an M14x1.5 tap for the thermotime switch for the FI system. I found a perfect place to put it, but I need to drill and thread the hole One little thing gummin up the works. At the very least I hope to have it ready to go when the tap arrives. It is raining a bunch right now so taking a break.

OK, header tape makes sense as a way to help hold the copper in place as well as holding the heat in. The copper pipe will expand at a greater rate than the steel pipe and the copper pipe is "long" so it may expand and lift off a bit as things warm up. Try a quick and dirty "warm-up" test on a section of the coiled copper with a hot air gun or propane tourch to see what happens.

Like the idea of the header tape to act as a "sleeve" to keep the heat in.

Hey, I thought the internet searching was supposed to speed things up?

Taking a break due to another rain storm to post some success. I noticed earlier that the 5/16 NPT tap was very close to the 14x1.75 at its base. So, I gave it a shot I only need about 5mm of thread so this works out perfectly. The plug that goes into the hole where the mechanical fuel pump used to go was removed, placed in my lathe, drilled and tapped with the NPT tap. The thermotime switch fit perfectly and the location is very close to where it would be on the stock 911 motor.

On the heater front, consider that what you see installed currently is only about 20' of 1/4" OD tube. At the end, I expect to have 60' total on both headers and can always add more. Intention is to have 1/2" hose to and from the heater up front to keep flow up and the volume down to allow for retention of heat.

I would only be worried about getting enough flow through the 1/4" tubing. I don't think you will get enough volume/velocity, thus causing the water to cool down before it gets to the heater core.