That heater may be the best thing that went into the garage this winter.

Zach

Camera up doc..........

He can't. He's too busy welding right now.
Poor bastard was trying to seam weld 22ga steel with my cheap .035 flux core wire. The fact that he did not burn much through was impressive.

I had to come in. I felt the call to work on my car (or just sit and BS for a while), but I have a shitload of homework to do.

Zach

Okey dokey. Here are the pics.

The modified/lowered engine/bumper mounts
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New engine height. Still acceptable, but it gives me something to shoot for with a different injection someday.
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These pics are small so there will be several posts.

Here is another of the adjusted engine height. it looks lower than it is due to the angle I took the pic at.
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Driver side engine tin with foam seal.
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Carb clearance. It fits just barely, and I have to lower the engine to change the current filter. I mat get a filter top cover and shorter filter element to fix this.....or I will just switch to FI someday...
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The gap to fill between the bay and the engine. I needed to accommodate the bell housing so welding had to occur
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Drivers side front tin. I made it in 2 parts so I could remove and install with the engine in the car.
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The cardboard template I made to mock things up.
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Here is the mock up of the right side front tin.
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In place.
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Metal unit made up.
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Both front tins installed.
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The tins are just mocked up and will be finalized once the engine is fremoved again for finalization.
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And with foam seal. I am using a $3 pack of insulation from wally world.

I think the filter I am using is a 14x3. If I can get a 14x2, which is the smallest I can find in the 14" dia size, then I will be pretty well off with the current setup. I do not wish to lower the engine one inch simply to change the damn filter

Next trip should find the pass side tin done (the sides are very easy), and the rear one started (maybe finished, but it is gonna need some engineering).

Ever see this air cleaner? It's not cheap, but it may give you the clearance you need.

Holley Low Profile Air Cleaner

Ya, I saw that last night on my search for a filter element. It is nice, looks cool, and costs way too much. Since I eventually plan to go FI, CIS, or some other injection, I dont want to drop that kind of coin on the air filter housing. Maybe I can fab some bastardized version of that up? Probably easier to find the 2in tall element.

I hear ya. I rejected the same filter for my Corvette because of the expense, and also because I think it's butt fugly. I found a little bitty air cleaner that just barely fits under the stock hood. I'm pretty sure it uses a 2 inch element as well.

I will try NAPA when I check next. They are smarter than the other parts stores and can search without needing a vehicle type. I know that there are 14x2 filters out there, google says so, but I dont want to buy one over the net if I can just get one down the street.

I see that Mr Gasket has a 1480a that is 14x2. Lets see if I can get it from NAPA or other FLAPS locally. I would love to find one shorter than 2", but so far no luck.

If you were planning on coming over tonight, last nights snow is pretty much gone. You should be clear to work. My shoveling this morning was not needed, as everything melted as soon as the sun came out.

Zach

Your air cleaner element can also be modified to fit...

I had the same issue with mine on my V8, I took the lower piece and turned it upside down, got a shot bag on the bottom and hit around it with a hammer to make it more "lowered" I had to lopside it due to the throttle linkage but I moved it down about an inch.
Basically stretching the metal and lowering the air cleaner onto the carb more


Something to consider.

I already bought a filter housing that was dropped an inch. They make them stock and cheap. The 14" was needed to clear all the stuff under it. Here is the link to the one I have.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3001K/

NAPA has a filter that is 14x1.5. Now I need to see if 1.5 is not too short. Also, I need to see if the ID of the filter housing I have is 12". If it is I have a filter

Not tonight. I need to do homework on Wed nights. Maybe tomorrow.

Here is the one from NAPA, I just ordered it. They dont make me prepay so what do I have to lose. This may solve a lot of issues.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.as...2100_0071361101

So today was pretty productive. I knew that the next few days would be boogered by snow so I worked to get to a point where the engine could come out. That just meant that I needed to get the rest of the tin done, which I did. I resolved the air filter issue, but I will elaborate on that separately, it deserves its own explanation. The tin will not be completely air tight in the rear due to the way the engine and all the shit back there is. It will be tight enough, though. I do not foresee any issues.

This was the situation/weather today:
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A better shot of the adjusted engine height:
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Tin sections
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More tin
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I have a piece that goes in front of the pulley and connects to the two sides. The cardboard section will be replaced with metal, of course. The tin needs to be finished with the engine out so I can do the fine tuning.

Now, the air filter was too damn big so I found one that was only 1.5" tall.
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BUT, it was too short. The top cover was hitting the carb top.
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Sooooo, I went to the flaps and sourced a different assembly. Notice how much of the all thread is now sticking out
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Final air cleaner. I have another filter that came with the new housing that is only .25 taller if I need it. For a /6, I dont think so, though.

Awesome! With the new housing I don't think that you will be lacking for airflow.

The other option, which I am glad we won't have to do, was cutting the intake runners about 1cm and re welding them. You had the space above the pulley, but it would have made changing belts a real PITA.

Zach

For all you bay window breadbox freaks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volkswagen-...5fCarsQ5fTrucks

KILLER

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volkswagen-...5fCarsQ5fTrucks

Today was a great day! I finished the last rough fitting of the tins and things went very well. I am glad I dropped the engine and had it in the garage before the storm hit.
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I did a little trimming, welding, and designing of the tin.
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More.

s'more.

I made the rear pieces into one piece. No need for 2 and it fits better. I also installed a hose for the FP sensor.

Oil P hose and sensor.

The pic of the snow drift is actually several inches smaller then it was Saturday. It is thawing a little during the day, then freezing solid and compacting at night when the temps drop back under 5 degrees. We have had about 4 inches of sublimation since the storm 2 days ago.

I also picked up 80 pounds of salt the AM to help fight the ice war on the lower driveway. Can't let the salt near the old iron though. Gotta keep'em separated!

I say the same thing about every T4 when it goes from untinned to tinned... It is amazing how much bigger they look with the tin on. That corvair motor is pretty compact, but it looks ginormous right now. Very cool watching this transform.

I have off work today, so I'll be able to help whenever Mike comes over. Even if my "help" is just BSing and working on my car while he is working on the bus.

Zach

Zach

That's more help than you know

Mike continued working on tin this evening, welding on capture nuts.

I puttered about on my car, then welded some of Mikes exhaust stuff together. I think that a lot got done tonight, but nothing really picture worthy.

Mike has a lot of stuff to take to get coated now. Then we wait out some silly white stuff, put the engine in the bus and drive it to Hershey to see if it makes it or not. (it will).

Zach is right, there was not much to take pics of. Welding the nuts to the sheet metal was fun, easy and will allow for it to be assembled and disassembled easily. Zach hooked up welding the adapter with the O2 sensor bung. Now I think I will get the headers coated. They are rusting pretty bad just sitting there. I had to adjust the throttle linkage since I lowered the carb. Also put a hole in the front tin to accommodate the linkage. I will be putting some rubber seals around the hole to reduce hot air flow into the engine bay. Then clean up and paint. After that, probably installing the engine.......when I can dig out the rear of the bus.

I also need to make an oil T adapter....and I need the sensor. Zach says he has one. I have part of an adapter, I just need to thread it for the temp sensor.

The sender (I think) is in one of the yellow bins on the wood walled workbench. Look through them and you will probably find it. It MAY still be in its box, hiding in plain sight. Another place to look is in the red tool box, probably in the top bin. Erin and I are going to try and have a date this afternoon (her work closed too) so we may not be there if you come over. We won't be long, though. Still have to get Theo by 5:30.

Zach

Is that a jeep 725 or a 914? The jackstands look familar.

I think I am staying home today. There is nothing pressing on the engine and the weather is gonna turn eventually. Maybe the next time I come down, the engine will be able to be put in. There is not much left to do before that and I am not motivated to come down just to do that little bit of work today.

Neither! Its a Jeep 715. The 725 was the ambulance version. Needless to say, it has spent too much time near my 914 and picked up the jackstand disease. Between the bus, the jeep, and my 914, I have no more ramps or stands to change the oil in my DD. The jeep is waiting for an engine, which will be showing up soon after the bus leaves.

Zach

What type of engine. Didn't those trucks have some sort of flat head 6 cylinder that kaiser made into an overhead cam? Something like 230 tornado or something like that?

Yeah, 230 Tornado. It was the first Hemi engine, actually. Years before Dodge came out with one. Also, it was a very early overhead cam engine. It was ahead of its time.

Which is bad for a motor, since no one knows how to properly service it, and then they get a rep for poor reliability. 40 years later, many of them are still chugging along. But they are underpowered (130Hp, 210Tq) and parts are becoming difficult to find for the 24 volt motors.

I am dumping it for a Chevy 350. The donor truck will be moving in within days of the Evil Bus moving out. I wanted to do a Cummins 4BT diesel, or an AMC 360, but the 350 is a 4 bolt main, good condition and free. hard to turn down.

Zach

Are parts for your Corvair engine easy to find? I ask because there is an early 60's Corvair 6 with a powerglide for sale locally for $100.

Stupid easy and affordable.

Search:

Larry's corvair parts
Corvair Ranch (my local supplier)
Clarks Corvair (best catalog, but sometimes stuff is not in stock)

There are a few others, but these are all I have ever needed.

Yesterday I started de-burring the engine tin after I picked up a sheet and proptly but a metal jaggie into my thumb.

Then I primed, and got a coat of paint on one side before I decided I had enough.

I missed one edge de-burring that I noticed on the painted stuff that I might try and get Tuesday, and I have not touched the rear tin nearly at all - at least with paint.

Not picture worthy, but it is progress.

zach

Thanks man. That will help a lot. The only things left then:

- Figure out the Oil T sensor mounting
- Run some hoses and lines (drill some holes in the rear tin)
- Wire up the bus so it will be ready for hooking the engine up
- Paint the bay (again!, and again, and again)
- Paint mounts
- Install engine

If you want, the mounts are in the back of the bus and need paint as well. And maybe an inspection of my welds. I am not sure if they need more material or not. I think I but welded them.

I''ll try and get out Tuesday night and inspect the mounts. It is likely that I will just continue de-burring and painting though. That has to be done before the engine can go back in.

I also need to remember to fill up the K1 jug again. The heater burned it all up keeping the garage warm while I puttered with my car and painted your tins saturday.