And I have to go back to work Monday.

You are welcome to work, but I won't be around to help. I'll also be gone the weekend of the 8th and Presidents Day weekend. As alawys, you are welcome to come over, but you will be on your own.

Zach

So what did you find on the float issue ? Out of adjustment, trash ?

I saw this on youtube.
Its not helping me. This car is HOT! and 193HP to the rear wheels (so says the video)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddbbGbUPlyc


Zach

Gee whizzzz Just go get that maroon one and get on with it

Weber setup

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzicgyjY12E...feature=related


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzicgyjY12E&feature

A buddy of mine had one with a stock turbo. It wasn't as old as the one in the video. He was saving it for his kid (who must be 30 by now). It had some pep.

Today was a good day. I adjusted the float bowl and solved the flooding issue. I bought the new alt and switched the end cap for the corvair to it. I swapped the new bearing from the new alt end cap into the corvair end cap and assembled the new unit. All spun good, no noise, no binding. Interesting thing about the old one, when I disassembled it, it looked fine inside. No wearing, rubbing, binding or anything else that would be expected of an alt producing the whining noise. More oddity happened when I installed the new one and ran it was that it whined a little, but not as much. I am not going to worry about it for now. The new unit is better assembled and cheap so I intend to run it until it gets worse or stops working.

After reassembling all of the parts onto the engine I started it right up and ran it a few times for a few minutes. The carb is not adjusted so I had to keep giving it gas, then I adjusted the dizzy, needed less gas, tweak, run better, etc. Bottom line, the engine is ready for installation and can be tuned in the car.

Thing learned today, the starter is not sufficient for this engine. It only turns it when the engine actually wants to start, but it lags badly even after the engine has been running for a few minutes. It is not a ground issue or a battery issue. I had the car idling at 3k while the battery was attached to the starter directly. It was pathetic, and disappointing.

The engine sounded bad ass running though It made nice heat in the garage as I had the pipes outside of the garage, the door only just open and the engine in the garage. This is getting close to moving

Nice, congrats!

Wish I could have stayed another day

Your help allowed today to happen

I am still concerned about your alternator.

I could not hear your engine when it was running and I was inside. But I could hear the whine of the alternator. maybe its just the frequency, but it seemed to me to be pronounced.

Sorry I could not come out. Had to take care of little guy and give Erin the night off after she watched him all day yesterday.

But, my hiking trip next weekend is likely canceled due to the organizer being ill. However, that means I will be around to help get the engine in the van and help with other tuning stuff.

Zach

I am busy next weekend. The engine was LOUD so I am not sure how you didnt hear it. The alt was barely audible standing right next to it. Dont know what to say.

So here is the latest:
I ordered a Hi-torque starter that is made specifically for the corvair motor. Its new and should last forever. I didnt feel like messing with it any more. It should be here Fri.

As for the current starter issue, I do wonder if the alternator being wired up is having anything to do with it. It is a one wire, internally regulated jobby so I doubt it. But, I like to worry about stupid things.

Next, I need to prep the engine bay for drive-train insertion. This will be when I finish my engine tin fabrication.

Then simple engine wiring, cabling, install axles, install seat mount, drive?

I decided to draw out the schematic of my engine wiring and did some research on the "one wire" alternator. I found that the one wire alt needs a second wire from the ig switch to activate it. This turns out to be a good thing, though, as I will use this to power my idiot light and buzzer.

The warning system:
The alt needs B+ to the +1 pin in order to switch it on. If the alt should fail or stop turning then this wire will lose its ground and the light would go out, according to one web site I found; http://www.alternatorparts.com/FAQ.htm#how_to_wire

"The ignition wire to the #1 terminal can be supplied in two ways, either a direct ignition wire from the key switch or through a light bulb. Running the ignition wire through a light bulb before connection to the alternator will give you a warning if your alternator fails to start charging or if it quits working while the engine is running, this is commonly known as the idiot light. Another thing that should be mentioned is the #1 terminal must be ignition switched. I have heard of situations where a wire was run to the #1 terminal that had power on at all times. What happens is when the engine is turned off the #1 terminal switches to ground which over time can burn up the voltage regulator or the wire if power is not cut to the #1 terminal."

This is kinda unclear as it states that term 1 switches TO ground when the engine is off. This would cause the light to THEN come on.

Luckily, our cars are supplied with many little round relays that can either be SPST-NO or NC. If I go with the NC configuration, I just need to hook the power in to pins 85 (coil in) and 30 (power to warning equipment), hook the alt term 1 up to pin 86 (coil out), and hook either pin 87a (NC configuration) or pin 87 (NO) to the power into the light and buzzer which are wired in parallel. I would ground the warning circuit separately under the dash.

In the NC (normally closed) configuration, power is allowed to flow through the relay to the warning circuit when the power to the relay coil is lost but the key is on supplying power to the warning circuit.

In the NO (normally open) configuration, power is not allowed to run through the relay to the warning circuit until it is energized. Thus, the warning circuit does not get power unless the term 1 at the alt grounds and switches the relay on.

This should be very cheap and easy (my favorite) to do.

If you can get your starter to me, I'll try and get your engine in over the weekend.

is there anything more that needs doing before we stuff it in the Bus?
Zach

Mike, I would suggest just locating the idiot light wire for the bus dash and use it to excite the alternator. Check the bus wiring diagram.
When the exciter wire turns on the alternator it will loose ground and the light on the dash will turn off as normal. I have a GM one wire on the Alien and I used the 914 dash light wire for the exciter. Works fine. Oh, BTW: the alternator will turn itself on if you rev the engine a couple times. but it will not work well this way.

Zach, thats kind, but I will do it on Mon.

Rick, I need the buzzer as insurance against not noticing that my belt has slipped. The alt wire will be using the dash light as it was intended, but it will also have a buzzer inserted into the circuit to warn when bad stuff has happened. Are you saying that the exciter wire initially has ground through the alt and then loses it until the alt stops functioning?

Zach, if you want to do something, here is what I still need:

- Remove most of the metal around the VIN tab (leave only what is necessary)
- Remove rest of the engine shelf on the pass side (maybe)
- Smooth and prime/paint the new bare metal from cutting the engine shelf
- Prime/paint the support tubes I placed through the frame in the rear
- Prime/paint the engine bar (I have POR-15 for this one, upstairs)

I should have all the paints necessary to do this stuff. Once the engine bay is ready, the engine goes in and the tin gets fitted. I will need to mock up the forward tin before the engine goes in. I need to put the correct holes in it for wiring, throttle linkage, and the ATF tube. This will likely need to be installed prior to stabbing the engine into the bus. After this, it will be the fabrication of the aft tin under the pully that will be the challenge.

I may be wrong but that is my undrestanding. I need to read up on that again, I may not have the accurately discribed or over simplified. BTW: there is something about using the bulb that creates a resistance. If you replace the bulb with an LED it will cause the system to fail. Eric Shea had something happen like that once but I'm not clear on the facts. Just saying don't replace the filiment bulb with an LED.

The way I will be wiring it it will be going straight through the coil in the relay so it will be fine. Luckily, no matter how the alt lead works, all I need to do is swap the lead from one terminal to another


Regarding the crappy starter plague, I just realized that the tranny was not in neutral so that had to be turned as well. I dont have the cable installed so I could not have put it in neutral. Still pathetic RE the starter. I have no reservations about buying the stronger starter.

Mike I watched the output flanges a couple different times when we were having problems, and never saw them move. Are you certain it is in gear ?

Watch the video and you can see them moving.

Got some more work done today. I heard that the weather would be about 50* so I planned my week around today being bus day. No pics, all in prose so consider yourself forewarned

I finished cutting the engine bay shelf, prepped and painted it. Then I did some wiring to get things about where they need to be on the engine. I will finish up the wiring when the engine is in.

I had received the nice HT starter but had yet to test it as I didnt want to go through the paces of bringing my car up, opening the hood, getting the damn cables. However, Zach's battery was just sitting there and his cables were near by so I figured what the heck. This starter cranked the engine over like it was nothing. I think that the stock corvair starters are no match for the abomination that I have created

I did some more work on the front tin with putting holes in it for the vacuum lines to pass. Its not complete, but I wanted to get the engine in the bus before I did anything more.

I had to raise the ass end of the bus up 32" to get the engine to slide right under the rear. It was so high up that I almost had to jump to pull the hatch down. I lowered the bus to its wheels afterward and the engine was not smooshed. I am starting to get a little concerned with clearance, though. It will be tight.

If I could have one more thing done to the bus, I would have the rear floor above the engine bay cut out and a late model large opening hatch welded in so I could get to the engine easily. Oh Scotty! I am gonna need to find some more matchbox cars.

Lastly, I took some naval jelly and applied it to the engine bar to cure the rust that developed on it. Worked like a champ. I primered it and left the final undercoat coating for another day.

Not wanting to be idle at home, I did some fancy wiring stuff for my bus. I got a bread board and used it to make several connections. The alt light now goes through the bread board and when the alt stops or dies a buzzer and light will go off. This board is also a junction for power to the electronic fuel control.

Next wiring stuff to do:
- Wire shifter cut off so that bus only starts in N.
- Wire reverse lights to trigger from auto shifter.
- Wire back up camera to turn on when shifter is in R.

Next time, I intend to mount the engine in the bus so that I can finish mocking up the engine tin. Once the tin is done, then is the wiring which is pretty much done. Then I will be goofing in the cabin with the wiring, then I try to make the boom in a useful way. I also need to weld in the bung for the O2 sensor which will require a small section of pipe to be added to one of the headers.

Thats about it. Pretty exciting. Hopefully I will have picture worthy stuff next time.

What is the O2 sensor for?

to tune the electronically adjustable jets. This way I can adjust them for altitude and fuel economy.

Wait wait wait...

BACKUP CAMERA? Oh Mike. Not you too!

Zach

Cool.

Camera is for Noel

updates...pics...anything?

I'm back in class and Mike is interviewing and rebuilding many transmissions. Given the great weather today, I half expected him to pop in, but updates may slow for a bit until Mike knows where he is going.

Zach

I am out of it for this week. I returned from OH on Mon and have til Wed night to get all of my homework done for my two Masters classes before I leave to MN on Thurs morn. Then I will be gone until late Mon. Then I will see about starting in on this again. We are sooooo close now. Next step is to mount the engine, hopefully dodging disappointment with clearance issues, cut the engine tin, and cable/wire it up.

Soon to make the vroom vroom.

Well I can't wait to see it Mike. You're doing an awesome job

Before I talk about what I did in the few hours I worked on the bus today, I must say that the camera battery was again dead when I got down there So, no pics.

Last night I took my instrument cluster and soldered all of the wires into a 15 pin plug to help with removal and diagnosis. I went to work on the bus and realized I brought EVERYTHING except the damn soldering iron Luckily, Zach had the equivalent of a solder machete vs my scalpel, but I made it work. I got most of the wires in the dash hooked up with a few exceptions that I need to research, but it was getting too damn cold in the bus so I quit when the sun went down.

Exhaust; I could not find a correct adapter to fit between the header and the pipe for the exhaust so that I could weld a bung in it for my O2 sensor. So I bought two sizes, welded them together and welded the bung into it tonight. Not bad for only working about 2-3hrs.


To do list:
- Run a few wires for things like tach, R, reverse lock out, gauges, etc.
- Reinstall the engine and finalize the engine tin
- Engineer a fitting for the oil temp sensor....figure out what temp sensor to use.
- Install fuel pump and ignition module.
- Buy and install battery

I am pretty close, but the weather is crap and I need to fill some bolt orders when the stock arrives. Add in school work and I will be done by summer

After inspecting my exhaust adapter (plug end and bung, blow in other end) I have found that I have a pin hole that needs attention. I love welding Its nice not to be bummed by having to reweld something

You inspected your own bung?!?

That soldering iron is probably older then you and I put together.



When I am really mad or frustrated, there are a few things that I do that always work to calm me down and help me focus and think straight. Welding is one of them (shooting is the other, but I don't ever have time to shoot anymore.)

Zach

Oh ya, Zach, your out of kerosene I hope to come over this weekend and will refill your tank.

I noticed that the other day. A chilling discovery, to be sure. I was planning on getting some more tonight after work, as I hope to get some work done out there myself. The new heater is thirsty, but it does a good job of warming.

Zach

As soon as the sun went down last night the inside of the bus became unbearably cold. My feet started to freeze so it was real nice to go in and have that 70,000btu of love waiting in the garage for me

Holy crap, it's cold out there. The wind was cutting through my jeans like nothing. Gonna either find my long johns or stay inside.

I got caught in kid duty tonight as Erin needed to work late, so I did not have time to get any K1.

for once it is warm and almost balmy up here....strange indeed
nize and warm....just in time for the "Winter" Olympics

Dudes, check out this converted bus. 110hp corvair motor with power glide
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=397132

How adorable, one for you, and one for Noel


....or Blain


......or Antwon


.....or Marcel


.....or Daniel


.....or Stephan


See ya twinkle toes

Behold the awesome power of a two-speed transmission.

Nice color though.

Jealousy looks ugly on you, bitch.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volkswagen-...=item1e5a1dab8b

Today was a good day for the bus I forgot the damn camera again I will be there tomorrow to do some more work and will take some pics then.

The first thing I did was raise the engine into place. I did this by mounting the front of it first and then lifting the engine while checking clearance on the auto tranny filler tube, throttle linkage, and the air cleaner/carb. Well, the linkage and tube cleared, but the carb was too tall to use the kick ass mounts Zach and I built. Sooooo, I had to chop and drop the mounts 2". This went pretty well, actually. I cut and welded everything all by my self and the welds looked good, had good penetration, and the engine ended up sitting where it needed to be.

Oh ya, i was able to lower the carb assembly by removing the nifty spacers I made, moving the shorter one over, and tossing the larger ones. Unfortunately, this made my kick ass carb bracket too tall. I will be dropping all of this out one more time once EVERYTHING is mocked up correctly so that I can do final adjustments and finish.

Engine tin fabrication was pretty straight forward. I got the drivers side done and had to restart the front one as once the engine was in, the tin I started with the engine out was useless. I need to account for the bell housing now. I am making the front tin in two pieces so that it will be easy to install and remove. I hope to have the tin done tomorrow. Then it will be cabling, wiring, and thats it.

Oh ya, to give Zach some credit (because he thrives on that stuff), the 70,000 btu heater allowed me to work comfortably outside in 25* I got about another 1-2 hours of work today because of the heater that he found for us.

$26.2K and reserve not met. Holy crap.