Next update, I am using AN 8 and 1/2 NPT. It helps to keep measurements correct. AN12 is HUGE.

Doc? Is this the one you are turning into a cafe style racer?

Will you be doing any more welding? Cuz that was cool.

I was particularly taken with this example where you combined welding with whittling to create a kind of Dr. Seuss landscape effect.




Click to view attachment

Next thing you know he'll be slapping a super rare fog light on the roof, use it to start promoting his Doc oral practice, and showing us pics of his business ad featuring Rob Zombie.

If they dont have it for sale, then you gotta make it.

Thats, um, what she said?

Powdah coat that Fuchah PINK

OK, today I started back on the bus project. I decided to get all the hoses done so now the fuel system is all hooked up and ready to rock. The oil system is ready as well and my adapter for the oil temp is in place and looks out of place. I just keep telling myself that it is a prototype and that some day, once the concepts are proven, I will drop the engine and pretty it all up (ya right).

Next on the list, figure out how I am going to wire the limited CIS electrical. The main issue is that I need power to the cold start valve and thermotime switch ONLY when the engine is actually turning. Having it run when the key is on, but engine not turning means that it will dump a lot of fuel into the intake and likely flood the engine. Engine flooding was a huge issue with my 914/6 CIS conversion and caused a lot of headache.

So, anyone have ideas on how I can control voltage to the cold start circuit as described above?

My back up plan is to throw on some 3A carbs just to get it going. I hope a friend of mine can lend me a set with manifolds and linkage

headlight switch. Use the leads for the guage dimmer

How would that work? I was wondering if I could just tap off of the alternator output to the alt fail light. I could at least use its output as a switch for a circuit.

Scotty may be on to something here...

Push pull for the lights on would work as your power on off, the dimmer is just a rheostat ( ?) that would work to adjust the voltage.


Keep in mind, you know my lack of electronics background

Uh, ya. So, the power to the cold start circuit needs to come on ONLY when the engine is turning. So, I like the idear of a switch in the cabin as this would be the easiest, and the thermotime switch would turn it off, but the rheostat is not needed as it needs either full on or full off.

then just put a f-ing switch on the dash ! Power in...power out

That is a pain to wire and not completely correct. I want it to be: turn key, engine start, no drama, no extra switches, etc.

doesn't the start circuit on the ignition switch cut out once you release the key ?

So you want everything to be primo, original condition ? Got it

Yes, but I need the power to remain on while the engine is running until the thermo time switch turns it off.

I posted a carbs fuel pump circuit a while ago.
I can't look it up now since I'm on my phone but it uses the starter control and oil pressure indication so it does what you need.

tie in a relay to the starter solenoid...

Valy, that is what I am planning. The Alt does not provide power, but the oil pressure switch can be used with less worry about goofing with the charging circuit.

A relay would be good, and I will be using one either way, but hooking it to the start circuit would only activate it when the starter is engaged. I could place a relay that closes with the first turn of the key and stays closed, but then if the engine did not start on the first turn it would flood with every subsequent attempt.

I may need to tie the pump into such a circuit as well. With the /6, the pump runs with the key on and that caused it to flood the engine. I had to do a quick key on --> start sequence and if this did not happen then I had to turn the key off quickly and try again. A real PITA. This should not be a problem.

I know I could probably design a simple circuit with a capacitor and/or transistor to act as a switch...lets see what the day brings.

Ah, research can some times lead to enlightenment My understanding that the cold start injector ran until the engine was hot was wrong. It actually only runs when the starter is engaged which makes wiring so much easier.

"Another fuel line comes off of the fuel distributor and goes to the cold start injector. It is bolted into the intake manifold with two Allen-key bolts and is sealed with a large rubber O-ring. It is an electronically operated injector (like those in a car with Electronic Fuel Injection). It only sprays fuel during the first few seconds when the car is starting, and it only does this when the engine is cold. It only injects fuel when the starter motor is turbing."

http://www.k-jet.org/articles/information/k-jet-in-detail/#3

The circuit is powered by the starter until the oil pressure light goes off so if the engine doesn't start you don't flood it. Same, when the engine stops the current supply stops as well with the run-in of the oil pressure bulb.
I suggest you take a better look at the circuit.

I do not need to involve the OP light at all. The TTS I have will act as a switch for the CSI when the temp is <95F. This is not difficult now that I know it only is open when the engine is actually cranking and not while it is running.

Almost done with the wiring. Got the fuel pump, cold start injector, thermo time switch all set.

I had a thought as I was working on the bus...."Holy shit, this thing might actually run!"

What is left; clean up wiring, ignition wiring, final vac hose, install exhaust. Then I find what else I need to do

You all know that feeling. Right before the next disappointment

Shit Scott, that's funny







I'm screwed...

Yep, I'm almost afraid to connect the battery on my car...

Thats how I felt just before I started my 6!

Then when the first touch of the battery hit and there was no smoke

Gota love it when it works!

Almost done. Who knew having a baby would soak up so much time. My wife officially hates the bus again Whatever.....

For the last few days I have been chasing many wires. Since much of the stuff is not OE, and I can not find my notes (or didnt make them) I had to do this. Tonight, I think I have it all worked out except for two wires in the back. I will button up the front around the fuse panel and then chase the back wires tomorrow, maybe. Then, exhaust, filler neck for tranz, and gas for tank. :bomb:

Well, uh...Duhhh. Hint: there is no gain in efficiency when the second one comes - it works the opposite.

Got a lot done today.

Built a mount to place the trans fill. Mad it out of plate.
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Made a hose and taps for the case vent. Checked all the hoses, and a good thing I did as I found two hose clips on an air bypass hose that were very loose and fixed that.

At this point, I need to install the exhaust, hook up a battery, and start doing checks on the systems

Nothing left to weld ?

Wut??

Not true, I need more welding gas

Some stuff I did

Woot!

I rode the R1100RT to get the gas, on the way back I made a Hardley riders year

I hear, "Hey, hey buddy! Hey Buddy!" I look back and he says, "Your tail light is hanging off!"

The nuts to retain said unit, well only one was in the back compartment and this is why the whole thing was hanging by its wires.

WOW !! you're building a tube chassis for the bus body to sit on now ? that rawksss !!:drooley: Can't wait to see it this weekend

No, I downloaded pics of such a thing.

Almost ready to turn key. Welded up the exhaust to be better then previous and installed. Cleaned up wires and remounted fuse panel.

I need help with the throttle cable assembly and my friend is going to do that. Probably tomorrow, though.

No pics, but god news. I put the fluids in that it needed, except gas (didnt have time before a big storm hit), and made a modification to the throttle cable that increased its accuracy and repeatable use (not electric, yet).

The throttle opens almost all the way, about 1/8" too short. However, I think it works well enough to get it going. It is a question of cable/crank geometry that I will need to solve later. I think the cable is tight enough that if I adjusted it for full open it would not close all the way.

Tomorrow, I hope to put fuses in, battery in, gas in, air tube in, key in and start......stay tuned

Wazzup bitches!? It LIVES! I did it!

First start at idle

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQCA9-4fzC0


A little throttle

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qv6kLOqIVfA

I dont know what the squeaking is, but it is too late tonight to go fiddling around in the dark for it. I will do that tomorrow.

Ok, I have calmed down and taken a shower to get all of the gas off of me

I had the send and return hoses to the distributor wrong, 4 hose clams that were not able to tighten enough so I replaced them with ones that would, and I forgot to tighten the hoses on the WUR. Once the fuel stayed in the system, I cranked it and it coughed alive! It is running very smooth.

The squeak sounds like the belt or an associated part. It does not sound like the air leak we had last time, but I will be ruling all of that out tomorrow, I hope. With any luck, it will be inspected by this weekend and I can use it to move stuff. I think that Canada will be seeing this beast in June

I still cant believe my concepts worked. Cant wait to see what the HP and TQ are like.

Good job Annabelle.

Good job Mike!