After much internal debate, I yield. I could get this done tonight, drive 6hrs to Scooter's, and run a clinic for two days, maybe. I think it better to rest a bit and leave soon with a clear head.

I'll post pics in a sec.

Here she is in her all her glory.

Still to do:
- exhaust
- Finish fuel plumbing
- Electrical stuff
- Throttle
- Air tube

Looks great Mike !

Sick looking !!

Best damn lawn ornament ever!

Nice.

Looks sweet!

Zach's pens are here

BillH is here


Evil is here........





where are you ???

Here

getting up to let the fricking dog out...then driving there.

ETA 5pm Eastern Standard Time.

Alright, time to get back on this and hope to get it done in time for Matt's party (if I can get off of work at that time).

What is the big hold up? I am trying to figure out how to pipe the air from the fuel dist to the TB. My initial idea looks heavy and wont match the angles very well. I need to have pipe bend and twist a little, and I can not have the volume of the pipe be to large or the throttle response and running will be crappy.

One idea I have is to make a cage out of metal bar that I would weld to rings on either end that match the intake mouths. Then once I make a cage doing that, which matches the bends, I can skin it. The end product should be reinforced by the cage and match the curves......but what a lot of work. Any other ideas? I want it to be light since it has to stretch a bit of distance. If there was a hose I could use, that would be perfect.

You could try 3" electrical conduit and cut notches to bend then weld up the holes. Attach the TB rubber boots like I did on my 3.0L!

The conduit is light weight and can be welded.

That sounds plausible. I will have to look into that. I took your advise on making the rings for the ends so this may all just mate up. I can likely beat the conduit into the oval shape for the mouths....I think that the opening is larger than 3", though, so I will have to weld in some flairs. 3" volume should be appropriate, though.

Thanks, Jeff

Just hit 3 hardware places and the biggest conduit is 2" I had the idea to look at fence posts and they are no bigger than 2 3/8 OD .

Why can I not use ABS? Cheap, heat tolerant, premade bends. I just have to mate it to the TB and dist.

Acutally, 3" exhaust pipe should be pretty easy to come by and has angles in it

It would probably be a bit heavier but it would be the same!

I know you have your fuel dist. set in a nice out of the way place, but maybe something like this would work for you.

The Vanagon puts the air sensor box on a pedestal right next to and partially over the intake manifolds, and uses a short rubber section to the TB to allow for motor vibration and rapid response. A tuned snorkel runs from the air sensor box to the right hand louvered engine air intake in the side of the van.

FYI, some people have reported a power loss when the snorkel is detached, so a tuned length does something.

Not the same setup or FI system. Essentially, I am doing that, but with what I have to in the confines I am given.

Evil,

I know they are different FI systems, but the all have a manifold, a throttle body on top of that, a piece of connecting tubing on that, and an air flow sensor of some kind that sets the fuel flow, and an air filter on top of that.

My point was that moving the box closer to the throttle body seems to be the norm, and that a small pedestal has been used to hold the airflow sensor/filter box closer to the throttle.

Since you are dealing with compressible flow, the reason a short piece of tubing makes sense is that when you open the throttle, you start a column of air moving towards the throttle body, and that triggers the demand for extra fuel by moving the CIS plate. When you close the throttle, the inertia of the column of air keeps moving through the CIS box and into the conecting tubing until the air column backs up against the throttle plate and creates enough pressure within the connecting tubing to move the CIS plate closed to match the throttle position.

The bigger the volume of the connecting tubing, the longer it takes to pressurize the connecting tubing when the throttle closes. When you accelerate, it takes longer to get a column of air moving enough to move the CIS plate. Shorter tubing means a better match on the fuel and air being fed into your engine, less lag when you push on the throttle and less lag when you release the throttle.

Used to call my Vanagon accelerator pedal a "fly-by-wire" system. Mash the pedal, and nothing happens until the EFI says it will. Once it got moving, it was great and the pedal seemed to better match the engine speed.

I can not move the DIS closer as there is no room and the dist has to be upright or it wont work, not like the L-jet pictured which has to be horizontal.

If you switch to the early Volvo 242 intake housing you will be cutting the height by 50%!

I have the housing, but it will still have to be as far away as the current model that I am using. I will take some pics to show what I am working with.

The distance from the dist to the TB is 21" in current location. I can move it slightly closer, but there are things in the way between: AAR, WUR, oil thermostat, oil filter. I have to move the oil supply parts to bring the air box closer, this will be interesting.

I picked up an 3" ID x 18" pipe this afternoon. I am due to go to a Pirates game tonight so no work now. But, I am committed to getting this part figured out. After this, I will order fuel lines and attempt to start it

Pirate's game?

Click to view attachment

Why do you have a picture like that?

Maybe he went to Gasparilla Day down in Tampa. They celebrate the Pirate's visit and generally misbehave.

Just use Google. Amazing what you get with no result filter

Tonight was very productive. I changed gears after looking at the whole setup. I could find no close area to move the dist to, particularly with the bulky airbox. So, back to the pretty Al Volvo box. Still, it could not be mounted near the center of the engine.....from the bottom. So, I came up with an idea to build aluminum brackets to suspend the airbox from the ceiling of the engine bay More later.

That would work great if you mount the Volvo intake to the motor and just the air box above! You will run into problems if the dist is mounted to the chassis because of the movement of the motor!

If you make a bracket that bolts onto the intake bolts you could mount the volvo intake just to the left and the pipe would be considerably shorter. You could also hang it out to the left, not mounted to the chassis, but the motor!

What about the top access panel to the motor? Are you mounting to that?

You will see. I originally was trying to mount the Volvo setup to the intake manifold, but I need 5.5" of clearance and that was not available directly on top. However, there was room just to the side on the left. I have the AAR and WUR mounted on the left and those have to be considered in the equation. What I intend to mount to is one of the braces that runs fore and aft on the left ceiling. It will place the dist aft and better line it up with the TB. Another reason I decided to abandon mounting the dist to the intake gear is that it is rather heavy and I didnt want to stress the intake stuff. I dont think that engine movement will be a huge issue as the rubber ends of the coupler will act as shock absorbers, and the engine mount doesnt let the engine shake more than minimal. But, time will tell and if I need to adjust the design then so be it.

Just an FYI Doc!!

After dealing with vacume leaks on my 3.0L intake that would work for a while then fail it became clear that it needs to be solid attached to the motor or the vibrations alone will cause problems! I welded up a bracket that attached to the front and rear intake studs.

That just cant happen. There is no way to mount to the motor. There is too much stuff mounted to it already. I may just be able to place another flex joint in the tube between the TB and the dist. This is worrisome news.

The flex line will need to be Very stout! When I had a 90' rubber elbow, before I welded up my steal one, I would hit the throttle and the rubber would flex and be pulled in from the vacume. This would cause a delay in the throttle response and would get worse the higher the RPM's!

If you do use a flex joint I would make it very short just to add the buffer from the vibrations.

That is my plan. I will try without first and then source some flexible hose for a 1" gap or so in the pipe. This will enable it to be stout, and allow for absorption of some of the vibration. Actually, this may be a great idea overall as it will make fabrication of the pipe easier as the flex joint enables slight adjustments in angle and rotation so mating to the TB should be a snap.

Here is the rough mockup in aluminum Turned out pretty well.

Here is the bracket assembly.

Looks good doc!

FYI you probably can eliminate the decel valve like I did!

I considered decel elimination, but my reading showed it to be better to have. But, since it is not necessary it may just go away. Too bulky.

I sure am having some luck with this step of the build. I emailed my detailed order for FI parts and hoses to the guy at DeLorean Auto Parts only to not have an answer back.....similar to last time. So I call to find out, via the answering machine, that they are packing and getting ready for a big DeLorean meet. This meet is to happen, I find on line, weekend after next How much longer must I wait?!

I sent another email to the hose guy to ask about an ETA. In the mean time, I made a diagram of the fuel system with a legend, I figured I would share.

Click to view attachment

Bus CIS Legend
1. NPT to tank – Barbed to hose
2. Low pressure ~12mm ID fuel hose
3. 12mm nipple
4. 12mm banjo to 6mm angled barb
5. 6mm ID high pressure fuel hose
6. 14mm Swivel fitting with 6mm barb
7. Swivel fitting on hard line
8. Hard line
9. Swivel fitting on hard line
10. 14mm swivel to 6mm barb
11. 6mm ID high pressure fuel hose
12. 6mm barb to 12mm banjo

CSV line
13. 12mm banjo to SSB
14. SSB line
15. 8mm banjo

WUR supply
16. 8mm swivel
17. SSB line
18. 10mm swivel
19. SSB line
20. 6mm barb to 12mm banjo

21. 12mm double banjo bolt
22. 6mm barb to 12mm banjo
23. Low pressure fuel line, ¼” ID
24. ¼” barb to NPT

Why is the filter after the pump and accumulator?

I wonder that as well, but that is the correct way according to all diagrams I have seen. Screwy. I am looking into a high flow one before the pump. The filter is a beast built to handle pressure.

Vanagon has a huge filter after the pump, and it may be there to act as a "pseudo-accumulator" and to catch crap coming out of a disintegrating pump to protect the rest of the EFI.

I like that you are putting a second filter in front of the pump. Had to go to that configuration when a load of bad gas dumped about 8 cups of crap into my fuel tank. The crap looked like clay, water, and ground up fuel pump from the gas company storage tank pump. Chewed up the expen$ive fuel injection pump, so consider the pre-filter as cheap insurance.

I put a prefilter before the pump also!

What pre-filter did you use? It would save me some time looking for a suitable one.

It took me a while looking through the parts book in Napa to find one with the proper sized in and out lines! You need to get your lines sorted out at the tank and then find the proper filter to attach to those lines. The 914 tank is probably different sized than the Bus so knowing what I have probably wont help your situation!

I don't have time today to open up the botom of the car to look at the filter part number, sorry!